Category: Rolex Watches


Rolex Cellini Moonphase Watch

The 2022’s Rolex Cellini Moonphase ref. 50535 in polished 18 ct Everose gold retailing for 37’750 AUD. The blue enamel sky is a sight to behold, and the actual meteorite moon is enchanting.
It pays homage to the Rolex’s own 1950s dress watches, acts as a continuation of the 2014’s reintroduced Cellini range, and introduces in the mostly sports watch lineup of the brand a welcome classical note inspired by the world of art and sculpture courtesy Benvenuto Cellini.
Rolex watches are universally known — and at this point if alien life beyond our universe was fully confirmed then one can assume with full conviction that Rolex watches would have inter-stellar fame — for being one of the most reliable and sought-after timepieces. People throng to boutiques and ADs to catch a glimpse of these mythical horological beasts, with only a few lucky ones touching one of the steel sports watches.
So while most watch enthusiasts and collectors might be content with this, the Rolex Cellini Moonphase in my honest opinion is for those connoisseurs who appreciate that the brand is much more than a watch called Submariner. It’s like saying Patek Philippe only makes Nautilus. Or Audemars Piguet Royal Oak (though sadly the latter is perhaps true if you ask any of the latest Instagram famous flashy folks).
It is also for those of us who would like to own a piece radiating with the glow of watches from the likes of Breguet and the ‘Holy Trinity’ — though I seriously wish that the Rolex Cellini Moonphase had a display case-back — but also has the time-assured guarantee of being a sturdy Rolex timepiece.
And I don’t know about you but funds permitting I would personally indulge in a Rolex Cellini Moonphase (or time-only) rather than be on life-sucking waiting lists for sports models. Herd mentality is not always cool, though ironically, a Submariner definitely is.
The Rolex Cellini Moonphase features Rolex’s in-house calibre 3195 with an accuracy -2/+2 sec/day (after casing).

It is an automatic winding 28.5mm diameter movement comprising 31 jewels, beating at the frequency of 4Hz, providing ~48-power reserve, adjusted in six positions, and featuring a paramagnetic blue Parachrom hairspring, a Rolex overcoil and high-performance Paraflex shock absorbers.
The Rolex Cellini Moonphase is also a Superlative Chronometer which means that it is both COSC-certified and comes with a Rolex certification after casing. The watch come with an international five-year guarantee.

The calibre 3195 is entirely manufactured by Rolex, and the patented moonphase module is astronomically accurate for 122 years.
The watch face shows the functions of central hours, minutes, and small seconds, moonphase at 6’o clock and a peripheral date display on a gorgeous white lacquer base with a blue enamelled moonphase disc.

The full moon is impressively in rhodium plated meteorite, and the new moon and stars are pad printed silver. Both the hour markers and hands are in 18 ct pink gold.
The dial and movement of the Rolex Cellini Moonphase are encased inside a very wearable 39mm diameter case, with a 13.4mm thickness and a 46.3mm lug-to-lug spacing. The standard 20mm interhorn lug spacing is welcome, as aftermarket strap options become a viable possibility.

Rolex Cellini Dual Time 50525 Watch

Until now, if you were looking for a dress watch manufactured by Rolex, you had two options: the Day-Date, that however sits in the Oyster collection (thus more a casual than a proper dress watch) or the Cellini Prince, a square-shaped timepiece that never had a huge success (although we love it). This was true until 2014, when the “Crown” introduced their own vision of a round, classical dress watch, the new Cellini collection. And this time, it seems that Rolex has everything right: nice design, elegant feeling, complicated (but not too complicated) movements, superb execution and justified price… It’s time for us to have a closer look at the dress watch from Rolex, in its most complicated edition, the Rolex Cellini Dual Time, Everose Gold Ref. 50525.
In the conservative world of dress watches, it seems that originality is scarce. An issue that you’ve probably already spotted yourself: most dress watches are all very similar in their design and display. Whatever the brand, most have this “Calatrava” style, meaning round cases, polished, with a chamfered bezel and straight lugs and usually a bright dial with 2 or 3 hands and baton applied indexes. Sounds familiar, right? The strength of the 2014 Rolex Cellini collection is that it is 100% Rolex however with the extra elegance required by this type of watches – that some call dress watches or Tuxedo watches – and without being too Rolex, meaning it is not another Oyster watch. The Rolex Cellini is all about details, whether they refer to the DNA of Rolex or whether they add a ‘dressy’ look.
The main aspects that change it all, are the bezel and the overall shape of the case. The Rolex Cellini Dual Time ref. 50525 features a case made of 18k Everose gold (Rolex own pink gold, a specific alloy that keeps its pink color longer than ‘normal’ pink gold). It also exists in 18 white gold. The overall shape of the case is quite Rolex, however with certain details that make it rather different – and of course, more elegant. It’s like changing just one ingredient in a recipe. Same with the Rolex Cellini Dual Time ref. 50525. The main recipe of a Rolex is here but an ingredient (called classical elegance) has been added.
The central part of the case is faithful to Rolex traditions, with straight casebands and integrated lugs. However, lugs are here rather short, slimmer and more curved, making the case of the Rolex Cellini Dual Time ref. 50525 less bulky, softer, smoother. The second detail that reminds of Rolex without immediately catching the attention, is the bezel. The new Rolex Cellini features a double-stepped bezel with a coin profile and a bombé shape on the top. Thus it reminds for instance the bezel of a DateJust or a Day-Date (with their fluted profile) but with something more restrained, more discreet and classier.
The Rolex Cellini Dual Time, design-wise, feels like being a Rolex with something superior in terms of class. The same feeling appears once on the wrist. Neither the Cellini is an extra-slim or super small watch but it wears superbly. The 39mm is right in the middle between too small dress watches and large sports timepieces and the 10mm / 11mm profile makes it a watch with the right presence on the wrist. Due to a domed caseback (that is notched and screwed, like on other Rolex watch), the Cellini feels very smooth on the wrist (the domed caseback somehow reminds of antique bubble-back watches by Rolex).
In terms of dial design, Rolex made the choice for something quite strong, a guilloche that gives echo to the coin bezel. This ‘rayon flammé de la gloire’ pattern is less visible than our photos might suggest, and remains very subtle once the watch is strapped on the wrist. It also brings the right dosage of exclusivity and originality, compared to all the dress watches with a plain silvery-white dial, making the Rolex Cellini Dual Time easily recognizable. Then again, this finish on the dial feels totally Rolex but without being similar to what you can find in the Oyster collections. It features subtle, sleek and long, applied facetted baton indexes (cut in the middle by the minute track) and gold, facetted sword hands.
As indicated by its name, the Rolex Cellini Dual Time displays a second time zone. In a gold circled sub-dial at 6 sits a second pair of hands that will indicate the home-time while traveling (the main hands displaying the local time) or the time in another part of the world (for international business situations for example). The minute hand of this sub-dial is linked to the main minute hand (meaning that it rotates simultaneously, also when adjusting the local time) while the hour hand of this second time-zone is independent, being adjusted by the crown, by one-hour increments. Linked to this second time-zone is a day and night indicator (positioned at 9 in the sub-dial) that will display a sun on a bright background for the day and a moon on a dark blue background for the night. This complication allows you to know whether people in this second time-zone are in day or night-time.
Inside the Rolex Cellini Dual Time, Everose Gold Ref. 50525 ticks a pure Rolex engine, based on the famous Calibre 3132 (that is also featured in the Explorer 1 or the new Oyster Perpetual 39mm Ref. 114300). What does it means? Simply that you’ll enjoy one of the most reliable and precise movements of the industry, a movement that will last for decades and that will be efficient in every situation. This entirely in-house self-winding engine is of course COSC certified (Rolex even announces -2/+2 sec/day), ticks at 28,800 vph and features the proprietary blue Parachrom hairspring, with antimagnetic properties. The power reserve is 48 hours.

Of course, don’t expect some Haute-Horlogerie details here. This is clearly not the point of Rolex, that is known for its strong focus on daily usability, reliability, durability and precision (and the movement isn’t visible anyway). The movement of the Rolex Cellini Dual Time Ref. 50525 is like the rest of this watch: sharp, extremely well executed and feeling super-qualitative when worn.
The new Rolex Cellini is a success for a simple reason: it’s the vision of a dress watch by Rolex that collectors were expecting. It has the DNA of the brand but executed with more subtlety, more discretion and a more luxurious feel. The link with the rest of the collection can’t be denied and the Rolex DNA is clearly recognizable. However, it also has some interesting details that makes this watch a changer: a slim fluted bezel, a domed caseback, a slimmer case and this superb pattern on the dial. Overall, we could even find a bit of vintage feel here (something that is not usual for Rolex).
In terms of price-positioning, Rolex also strikes hard, with a retail price of 16,950 Euros for this Rolex Cellini Dual Time Ref. 50525. Don’t forget that it’s a solid gold watch, with a quite complicated and well finished dial and with a movement that displays more that just the time – competition in the high-end dress watch category usually starts around 20,000 Euros, a Day-Date 36mm in Everose gold on leather is priced at 20,500 Euros, while the Cellini Time (the simple 3-hand edition) is priced at 13,250 Euros. It seems that Rolex found the magical formula with this new Cellini collection.

Rolex Cellini 50519

The Rolex 50519 is an often overlooked and misunderstood watch collection even among Rolex enthusiasts. Cellini is not a separate company from Rolex but rather a distinct range of high-end dress watches that sits outside of the better-known Oyster Perpetual lineup. Cellini watches are not Rolex watches that can go scuba diving, climb mountains, or time high-speed car races. Instead, these are classic timepieces in the most traditional sense of the word.

The Cellini collection hit the market in 1968, earning its name after goldsmith and sculptor Benvenuto Cellini. In the beginning, the Rolex Cellini mirrored the ornate designs created by the renaissance artist, featuring intricate bracelets, sparkling gemstones, and unique case shapes. The Cellini has since taken on a more conservative aesthetic. Its release came during a very interesting time for the Rolex brand that saw a shift in their market strategy that included promoting owning multi watches for various occasions or professions. This narrative was incredibly successful for Rolex and the Cellini series.
In 2014, Rolex revamped the entire Cellini collection with a host of new timepieces and continues to add new models. Again, these are not the Cellini watches of past generations, which were often manual-wound or quartz-powered, and overdesigned. The modern Rolex Cellini watches are refined, elegant, and automatic. Furthermore, the Cellini portfolio has evolved from a catch-all for dress watches that don’t seem to fit anywhere else in the Rolex catalog into a very cohesive collection of versatile luxury watches.

The current-production Cellini is impressive, featuring white or Everose gold finishes, a 39mm case, handsome leather bracelets, and a handful of exquisite dial color options. Further iterations include time-only models, those with sub-dials for the date, and even a reference with a pointer date and Moonphase complication – features we don’t often see within the Rolex collection. However, one of our favorites right now is the blue Rolex Cellini Date ref. 50519. It’s a classic wristwatch that probably won’t ever go out of style, and it’s luxurious without appearing too contrived or in-your-face. It’s a fabulous gold Rolex. Let’s find out more.
Modern Cellini watches are exclusively crafted in 18k gold, and the Cellini Date ref. 50519 is a white gold version with a round 39 mm case and slim profile. The watch includes an intriguing double-style bezel, bringing together an interior smooth domed bezel surrounded by a decorative fluted bezel. Plus, to match the fluting on the bezel, the guard-less flared winding crown also features the familiar pleated texture.

Moving onto the dial, we see a continuation of the fluting motif by way of an intricate guilloché surface that almost appears to radiate from the center. Blue is a great dial color choice for the Cellini Date ref. 50519 since it adds some vibrancy to the timepiece yet is still considered neutral enough to wear every day. The Cellini Date features a playful take on the vintage-inspired sector style dial with its applied white gold hour markers divided by an inner minute track ring. Also, rather than a simple date window, the Cellini Date includes a date subdial at 3 o’clock with great effect.

The dial does not use any luminescence at all. It also features the iconic 5-point Rolex coronet at the 12-hour marker and the Cellini logo in an elegant font just above the 6-hour marker. The sword-shaped hands are tapered, mirroring the classy aesthetic of the rest of the dial.

To match the blue shade of the dial, this Rolex Cellini Date ref. 50519 comes fitted with a handsome blue leather strap attached to the elegantly tapered lugs. To secure the watch around your wrist, there’s the white gold tang buckle topped with the Rolex coronet. Oftentimes considered the most underrated watch from Rolex, but the Cellini still holds its ground.
Although the Cellini Date does include a screw-down winding crown and a fluted caseback similar to Oyster Perpetual watches, water resistance rating is half the OP minimum at 50 meters. After all, this is not the timepiece to bring to the pool, shower, or beach. A domed scratch-resistant sapphire crystal joins the watch’s list of specs, further protecting it from moderate wear.

The Rolex 50519 Cellini Date is impressive, both in form and function. Beneath that solid caseback sits the in-house Rolex caliber 3165- a self-winding movement exclusive to the Cellini Date collection. This COSC-certified chronometer operates at a frequency of 28,000 beats per hour and offers a 48-hour power reserve. As a modern Rolex wristwatch, the movement is outfitted with one of the brand’s most innovative technologies, the Paramagnetic blue Parachrom hairspring, which boasts significant resistance to temperature changes, shocks, and magnetic fields. Accurate up to -2/+2 seconds per day, the calibre 3165 is undoubtedly an impressive engine.
Reference 50519 is still in production today with either a blue, black, or silver guilloché dial and either a black, blue, or tobacco leather bracelet. The retail price is reasonable for a gold Rolex on leather at $17,900. Depending on the feature set, pre-owned prices range from $14k to $20k. The blue dial ref. 50519 featured in this review is a popular edition of the white gold Cellini and often commands closer to $20k on the secondary market. If you’re shopping for a Rolex that will hold its value well, ref. 50519 is certainly an excellent option to consider.

Buying the Rolex Cellini at retail is an attractive option for many reasons. You get to be the first person to wear the watch, and you can be sure that the watch is genuine without a shadow of a doubt. It might even be the more affordable option depending on the feature set. However, there are countless benefits to shopping the used Rolex market. If you buy from a reputable dealer, you don’t have to worry about the watch’s authenticity because they will go through a vigorous process to certify the watch as real. The watch might be sold out on the retail level in some instances, making the secondary market your only option.

With time-honored horology traditions like guilloché decorative techniques, a restrained case size, and the use of precious metals, the modern Rolex Cellini line is assertively going after the formal dress watch category by competing with the likes of the Patek Calatrava, the Vacheron Patrimony, and the Piaget Altiplano. And if Rolex continues to release models as appealing as the Cellini Date, it won’t be long until the currently overlooked Cellini gets its well-deserved moment in the spotlight.

rolex Cellini Date Everose

Our focus next is on the Rolex Cellini, a classically inspired watch that sometimes goes unnoticed by aficionados and serious collectors. In recent years, however, it has made a comeback and deserves a closer review.
Although the Rolex Cellini has never been the top seller in the Rolex line-up, it has always garnered the admiration of those who appreciate the subtle magnificence and sober classicism of its refined and elegant lines. The Cellini Collection is worlds away from the sportier models offered by Rolex. It is a watch created for those who choose the “path less traveled” and for whom less is more. It was named in honor of Benvenuto Cellini (1500-1571), the celebrated Florentine sculptor, musician and goldsmith from the Renaissance period. With its aesthetics corresponding to what is known as the “Golden Section,” a principle equivalent to the Divine Proportion which expresses in mathematics a design that is particularly pleasing to the eye, the Cellini manages to interpret the past in perfect harmony with the present.
The Rolex Cellini Prince was introduced in 1928 and was the first Rolex manufactured in quantity to earn chronometric certification. With a beautiful, slightly avant-garde rectangular shape and transparent case back, the Prince comes in a choice of different precious metals and dials, so is versatile enough to be worn in any casual or dressy setting. It is available in five versions in 18 carat yellow, white or Everose gold, featuring either a champagne dial decorated with a “clou de Paris” guilloché motif; a silver-colored dial with a “godron circulaire”; a diamond-paved dial with a silver color “godron circulaire” motif; a black and silver dial with a double “rayon flammé de la gloire” or a black and pink dial with a “rayon flammé de la gloire.”
Like an elegant gentleman about town, the Cellini Time does not shout out its presence. Those in the know appreciate its sophistication. It comes in four versions, either with a white or black dial, with a 39 mm case, in 18 carat white or Everose gold. A new Cellini time was introduced at Baselworld this year with a double ring bezel manufactured in a single piece consisting of a fine fluted outer ring and an inner ring set with 96 diamonds. It’s an elegant and sparkling upgrade to a classic. The appliqued hour markers are divided by a minute track that has been moved towards the center of the dial, closer to the tips of the hands.
The Cellini Date adds a date function on a small subdial and is also available with a black or silver dial featuring a “rayon flammé de la gloire” motif in a choice of 18 carat white or Everose gold.
The Rolex Cellini Dual can show two time zones simultaneously and has a graceful sun and moon day/night indicator in an aperture on the sub-dial which shows the second time zone. The Cellini Dual time is offered in the same choices as the Cellini Date.

Other older models include the Danaos, the Cestello, and the Cellissimo ladies’ watch. Cellini models are made with both quartz and mechanical movements with model and serial numbers engraved on the case back.

Rolex Air-King Watch

“Thin Line Between Love and Hate” is a 1971 song by R&B vocal group The Persuaders. Of course, the song is not about watches. No, it’s a tragic song that warns not to take advantage of a woman’s love and acceptance because, one day, her love might turn into hate. So what does the song have to do with the new Rolex Air-King? Well, I hated the previous version — the reference 116900, that is — but I love the new reference 126900. When I saw the new watch during Watches And Wonders, to my great astonishment, I instantly liked it. It made me realize that there is indeed a thin line between love and hate, and I kept hearing that song in my head whenever I came across the watch. But what exactly turned my dislike into the complete opposite?
Before I answer that question, I have to mention an article I wrote in March of this year. In The Circle Of Watch Life, I wrote that nothing lasts forever, not even Rolex watches, and that the Air-King could well be heading for the scrapyard. Well, it was and it wasn’t. The Rolex Air-King reference 116900 that debuted in 2016 was indeed laid off. Rolex, however, didn’t terminate the model completely but replaced it with the reference 126900. I predicted it wrong and right at the same time. But what I could never have predicted was that I would see myself lusting after a modern-day Air-King, a watch that is more or less the same as its predecessor. More or less, indeed. But the devil is in the details, as they say. And the details have turned everything around for me.
Yes, the newest Air-King is still a polarizing watch that mixes and matches a 1940s military style with the large Arabic numerals of the Explorer. And yes, the watch is nothing like the original reference 5500 from 1957. The understated, simple, no-nonsense beauty with a functional background is nowhere to be seen in the 2022 watch. Rolex has steered clear of a watch that has a longstanding history of being the entry-level Oyster Perpetual for service members and aviators. The original Air-King, with its 34mm case (that was positively oversized back in the 1940s) and non-chronometer “Precision” movement, will forever be a thing of the past. The last “real” Air-King debuted in 2007. The reference 1142XX series received some serious upgrades and reworkings, but it still remained true to the original model. The series was axed in 2014, but two years later, a completely revised Air-King appeared.
“New and improved.” You’ve read it on a box of cereal. Well, it could also have been on the box of the reference 116900 Air-King that appeared at Baselworld 2016. But that’s only because the then-new Air-King was, for the first time in its career, a Superlative Chronometer. That was thanks to the caliber 3131 inside the massive 40mm case. From 34 to 40mm is a giant step in the watch world. It’s not very evolutionary and, therefore, not very Rolex-like. And apart from the shocking new size, the dial proved to be even more of a shock. The looks of the Air-King reference 116900 are the result of a collaboration between Rolex and the Bloodhound land-speed record attempt. Rolex helped construct the supersonic car’s dial cluster, and many of the design cues made their way to the dial of the Rolex Air-King.
There’s nothing wrong with inspiration found outside the world of watches, but translating a foreign design element into a watch is not easy. Nobody cares that on a purely functional speedometer, the “5” doesn’t have a “0” in front of it to balance the dial design of the instrument. On a watch dial, however, that does matter immensely. You can’t ignore aesthetics on a modern-day wristwatch, no matter its instrumental inspiration or history. But that wasn’t all. It was the 3, 6, and 9 numerals that put me off the most.

When Rolex introduced the 116900 Air-King, the brand also presented the 39mm Explorer 214270 MK2 with luminous 3, 6, and 9 numerals. These numerals replaced the high-polished, applied 18K white gold numerals of the 214270 MK1. It made perfect sense. The Explorer is a tool watch, and as such, it needs numerals that you can read in low-light scenarios. That also goes for the Air-King, of course. It is a pilot’s watch, after all. But, strangely enough, the 2016 Air-King came with the glossy 3, 6, and 9 numerals that were dismissed from the Explorer dial. It was strange, illogical, and very disappointing.
I like the new Rolex Air-King for a lot of small reasons that add up to a big difference when compared to the previous iteration. First, the shiny 3, 6, and 9 numerals have been replaced by luminous ones. It not only makes more sense from a functional angle, but it also just looks better. The shiny Arabic numerals never excelled in readability, neither by day nor by night.
Second, the added “0” in front of the “5” finally brings balance to the minute indicators. The updated design would make zero difference on a speedometer, but it makes all the difference on a watch dial. What also helps to create a dial with better balance and subtlety is that the minute numerals are slightly slimmer. The bezel is actually slimmer as well, which leads to a 0.8mm larger dial diameter than the 116900 Air-King. The devil is indeed in the details.
A nice evolution is also the switch from a rounded case with a polished side to a way more chiseled one. It still has a 40mm diameter and a lug-to-lug length of 49mm, but the height dropped from 13.1mm for the 116900 to 11.59mm for the 126900.
You see, the previous reference used the case from the Milgauss and caliber 3131 with an anti-magnetic Faraday case construction. The new Air-King 126900, however, houses the new Rolex caliber 3230. This movement is equipped with both a Parachrom hairspring (also found in the 3131) and Rolex’s latest nickel-phosphorous Chronoergy escapement. This nickel-phosphorous alloy is highly resistant to magnetism, and so, when combined with the properties of the Parachrom hairspring, the newest Air-King no longer needs the Faraday cage construction. Rolex took the opportunity to create an all-new Oystersteel case, and the visual result is both slimmer and more athletic. The new Air-King lost “weight”, and also thanks to its broader “shoulders” and edgy crown guards, it looks way sharper and more “in shape” than the discontinued model.
The crown, by the way, is bigger too. It also has a more noticeable fluted design. And the sturdy three-link Oyster bracelet finally got the functional safety-lock clasp. All these little detail changes make for one big difference in overall appearance. The newest Air-King — a 100m water-resistant watch ­— is now a worthy member of Rolex’s Professional line-up. On the wrist, the new Air-King is sporty, but not in an overpowering way. It’s slim enough to even be called refined. And the dial is wild and exuberant, but also charming and fun. In other words, the new Air-King is pretty versatile.
I’m smitten by the new Rolex Air-King, that much is clear. I like the unusual look that now actually works and the fact that this pilot’s watch now makes functional and instrumental sense. But I can’t take the €7,000 that Rolex wants for it to the nearest authorized dealer to buy it. That, however, doesn’t put me off. Not immediately, anyway. I have good hopes that next year, it will actually be possible to buy a steel Rolex at an official dealer once again; there are plenty of signs that fuel my optimism. I cling to the motto that states that anticipation is half the fun. I’ll find out how long the anticipation will actually bring me fun. I give it 12 months, tops. Wish me strength.

Rolex Watches – GMT-Master II Steel

Welcome to our Rolex NoteWorthy series! The next two watches we’re reviewing are the Rolex GMT-Master and Rolex GMT-Master II, both based on Rolex’s highly successful and innovative multiple time-zone aviator watch.
The ultimate in travel timepieces when it was introduced back in the 1950’s, the GMT- Master featured the red and blue colors of Pan Am airlines, with whom Rolex worked to develop this ground-breaking dual time-zone GMT (Greenwich Mean Time) pilot watch. The dual color was used for an easier indication of day versus night. It was the one of the first watches that could tell the time in two different time zones[/inlinetweet], a valuable feature for Pan Am’s busy pilots who used it as their go-to on-board navigation chronometer. It was a superb innovation at the time. The original GMT-Master (16700) was phased out in the late 90s as consumers started looking for updated functionality.
The GMT-Master II (16710) was in production until 2008 and replaced with the GMT-Master II (116710), reflecting Rolex’s ongoing mandate to introduce a constant flow of new design and technological refinements to the original watch. The new version added the Maxi-case and a patented Cerachrom bezel, impervious to scratches and harder than steel. The Mono-block Cerachrom bezel is created by a unique, patented process that begins with ceramic, adding an additional color while still porous. It is actually one piece of ceramic, not two colored pieces joined in the middle; Rolex is the only brand in the world able to produce it. In addition to conventional hour, minute and seconds hands, the GMT Master II features an arrow tipped hand which circles the dial once every 24 hours. To use the GMT (Greenwich Mean Time) feature the bezel marker is moved to 12 o’clock and the hour hand is changed to the current time zone. The minutes move with the GMT hand when the crown is unscrewed and pulled two positions, and the hour hand moves when the crown is in the first position. The Rolex GMT Master II is an officially certified Swiss chronometer (COSC) with an oyster case, monobloc middle case, screw-down case back and winding crown. It features a bio-directional 24 rotatable bezel with engraved numerals and graduations, Parachrom bleu hairspring, Breuguet overcoil and Rolex caliber 3186 movement. 904L stainless steel models come with a black dial (lunette noire) only for superior visibility.
Two highly collectible and immensely popular bezel colors on the Rolex GMT- Master II are red/ black (also known as the Coke bezel) and blue/red (the Pepsi bezel). A new blue/black bezel color on the GMT-Master II was introduced at Baselworld in 2013. An immediate hit, it was dubbed by international watch aficionados and collectors as the “Batman” or “Bruiser” watch in honor of its special coloration. Other bezel and precious metals case and bracelet combinations include plain black with 904L stainless steel, steel and gold, 18 carat gold and a combination steel and gold. The gold GMT- Master II comes with a choice of either a black or green dial with a black Cerachrom bezel.

Rolex White Gold GMT-Master II 40 Watch

The Rolex GMT Master has always been an essential timepiece for Rolex and the famous bi-colored bezel in red and blue is strongly associated with the company, commonly called “Pepsi”. As a matter of fact, the GMT- Master is one of the most iconic timepieces in the world.

In 2007 the GMT Master II reference 16710 was discontinued and was replaced by the maxi-case GMT Master II reference 116710LN which, for the first time had a bezel insert made in ceramic for the stainless steel GMT Master II. However, this meant that the bi-colored bezel no longer existed, but instead only a full-black bezel insert.
Perhaps was the reason for this that the technique to develop a ceramic bezel insert with two colors was too difficult at the time. The process of combining two different colors in ceramic and creating a razor-sharp line between them is a technique that is exceptionally difficult.

In 2013 Rolex introduced, for the first time, a bi-colored bezel insert for the GMT Master II. After many years of research and development, Rolex had mastered the art.

However, the colors were a surprise for many as the color combination previously hadn’t existed. Instead of coming up with new colors for the GMT, Rolex decided to use two already familiar colors but instead decided to match them together.
The new Rolex GMT Master II with a bi-colored bezel insert which was blue and black and had the reference number 116710BLNR but quickly was given the nickname “Batman”. It wasn’t until the year after, in 2014, which Rolex for the first time since 2007 brought back the “Pepsi” insert for the GMT Master II, the catch was that this watch, for the first time ever in the GMT Master line-up, was made in 18K solid white gold which was mass-produced.

The only Rolex GMT Master II made in white gold prior was the reference 116769TBR said to only been made in 10 pieces worldwide. The GMT Master II reference 116719BLRO with an oyster bracelet with polished center links was beautiful and finally, after 8 years, the blue/red color combination was available for the GMT Master II once again.
The first dial for the re-introduced GMT Master II “Pepsi” was black with white gold hour markers, as seen above. It was also the only available dial for the model until 2018. In 2018 Rolex decided to bring back the “Pepsi” version of the GMT Master II in stainless steel reference 126710BLRO now featuring a jubilee bracelet, which it only was sold with.

However, the dilemma was that the stainless steel version “Pepsi” was introduced with a black dial, and because of this, Rolex decided to change the white gold “Pepsi” dial to matte blue and encouraged all owners of a Rolex GMT Master II in white gold with a black dial to change for a matte blue, free of charge, in case they wanted at a Rolex Authorized Service Center. This was to satisfy customers who had bought white gold GMT-Masters who bought the watch for prestige, and not have them be mixed up with the much-more affordable steel versions. In other words, to differentiate the GMT-Masters in white gold from the GMT-Masters in steel with the Pepsi bezel.

This is a very generous gesture of Rolex and of course, was appealing to a lot of owners with the white gold “Pepsi” because, for the untrained eye, looked just like a stainless steel version. The only difference was the bracelet between the two. With this said, Rolex stuck to the blue dial for every GMT Master II white gold “Pepsi” produced ever after, which makes the black dial rather unique and sought after for collectors -although, of course, there’s just something special about blue dials.

The only way to distinguish a white gold “Pepsi” reference 116719BLRO black dial from a stainless steel “Pepsi” is really the crown placed between “Swiss” and “Made”.

ROLEX EVEROSE GMT-MASTER II 40 WATCH

Gold Rolex sports watches are different things to different people, to put it mildly. For some of us they are as a red cape to a bull (bulls are by the way actually color-blind to red, but I say, never let the facts get in the way of a good cliché). On this viewpoint, the whole idea that a watch originally intended to serve a specific and practical purpose – telling the time in different time zones, tracking dive or decompression time for divers, or what have you – should trick itself out in gaudy precious metals and sashay down the boulevard looking for attention, is anathema. However for some of the rest of us, it’s good clean fun and why not dress up the practical with the luxurious a bit? For those cheery, devil-may-care sports, we have this year’s new Rolex GMT Master II, in go-to-hell Everose.
To put things a bit in perspective, it’s undoubtedly completely true that the Rolex GMT Master – both the original reference 6542 and all subsequent models – are purpose-built tool watches intended to be legible instantly, and to track and transmit useful information reliably. However, it’s also true that the GMT Master has from the outset been available in gold if you wanted it to be – yellow gold versions of the 6542 “Pussy Galore” are very rare but they do exist (one was offered at Sotheby’s in 2013; it hammered for $125,000 on a high estimate of $120,000). Possibly the distinction between “tool watch” and “luxury watch” was perhaps not quite so hard and fast in 1954 (though in 1955 a steel GMT Master was $240, and a Tourneau ad from the same period advertises a gold GMT Master “with alligator band” at $600, so there was certainly still a relative premium).
Interestingly enough, the Submariner wasn’t made in gold until quite some time after its introduction – the first Submariner offered in gold was the reference 1680, which came out in 1969. It’s possible that a gold GMT Master made a bit more sense initially, with its jet-setter image but in any case, both models have been around in gold for many decades, so from a historical precedent perspective, gold Rolex “tool watches” are perfectly respectable and just as authentic as steel models.
This is, however, the first year that the Rolex GMT Master II has been offered in Everose, which is Rolex’s proprietary formulation of rose gold. Rose gold is a mixture of yellow gold and copper (and occasionally some silver, depending on the alloy). Under some circumstances rose gold is susceptible to fading – chlorinated pool water is an often-cited culprit – and Everose, which Rolex introduced in 2005, includes a small amount of platinum. The Rolex patent from 2005 for “Discoloration-Resistant Timepiece Or Jewelry Part” gives a platinum content of 1.5% to 3%, and cites the tendency of gold alloys to discolor in the presence of “slightly aggressive aqueous media,” such as “tap water, sea water, swimming pool water, salt water, or even soapy water.” (I find the dry pedantry of patent documents hysterically funny sometimes; there is something hilarious about “slightly aggressive aqueous media.” Possibly I have been writing about watches too long.)

Essentially, the addition of platinum tends to discourage copper from dissolving out of the surface layer of alloy, in the presence of mild corrosives (including chlorinated pool and hot tub water, and seawater) as well as discouraging the formation of surface corrosion products that can cause discoloration (sulphides, oxides, and other compounds).

The design of the new Everose GMT Master II is also reminiscent of the so-called “root beer” GMT Masters, which were first produced in the reference 16753, and which have a very distinctive brown and cream colored dial. These are also known to Rolex fans as the “Clint Eastwood” GMT Master, thanks to his fondness for the model (which he wore in a number of films in which he portrayed a variety of characters).
The Everose GMT Master II is not a direct copy-paste of the 16753 but it’s got a very similar vibe (perhaps even more in two-tone Rolesor) and in rose gold, it’s an extremely eye-catching watch. I actually find this version a bit less overtly declarative of admirable personal net worth than yellow gold Rolex sports watches – rose gold in general gives (to my eye anyway) slightly sharper visual definition of case geometry, which seems to offset the general richness of all that gold the way a squeeze of lemon cuts the richness of a butter sauce.
In fact, and again, despite all that gold, this comes across as a much more technical watch in the metal than I’d have thought possible for a massive, precious metal Rolex. Now it’s true, as Rolex says in its own presentation of the watch, that “its combination of … functionality and rugged good looks has attracted a wider travelling public” than the original professional pilots at Pan Am for whom the GMT Master was originally designed. It’s also true that the latest versions of the GMT Master are, irrespective of case metal, as qualitatively impeccable and technically solid as anything else from Rolex. It’s worth noting that this model updates the movement from the Rolex caliber 3186 (48 hour power reserve, COSC, ±2 sec/day) to the caliber 3285, with Rolex’s high efficiency Chronergy escapement (also COSC certified and controlled to ±2 sec/day, but with a 70 hour power reserve).
This, I suspect, is a version of the GMT Master II that “the wider travelling public” is going to enjoy quite a bit, and that it won’t start to lose its ruddy allure in the pool, the ocean, or in the hot tub is icing on the cake. The great thing about Rolex’s more luxurious watches and the thing that saves them from being mere exercises in conspicuous consumption is really how well they’re made – lord knows, the Rainbow Daytona (also in Everose) is a polarizing watch but in person you notice the sheer high quality of its construction at least as much as its gem-set opulence (which given the amount of opulence on display in that watch is saying something). If you’re interested in full specs and pricing, hop over to our Introducing story on ref. 126715 CHNR right here, and also, of course, you can get better acquainted with this red-headed siren at fashionreviewprice.com