Category: Perfect Wrist
The Graham Fortress is a chronograph equipped with a monopusher set within the crown. By placing the monopusher/crown on the left flank of the case, the watch breaks with convention. However, here is much sense in taking this unusual approach to chronograph design.
What’s in a name? The Fortress upholds Graham’s fondness for aviation-themed product names. Perhaps its moniker doffs its hat to the Flying Fortress of the 1930s? Alternatively, the word ‘fortress’ may evoke thoughts of military strongholds or castles and, by default, elicit images of strong, castellated buildings and impregnable structures. All of these associations are consistent with the tough nature of this new Graham model.
To really understand the watch brand from La Chaux-de-Fonds, a person has to think like Graham, i don’t subscribe to convention or accept mediocrity; be #bold and #brave. If a sign says ‘keep off the grass’, put on a pair of big boots and do a jig on the turf. If other brands choose to place push-pieces on the righthand side of the case, then break the rules and go for a leftfield approach.
Indeed, as you look at the new Fortress from Graham you will note a monopusher located on the left flank of the case. This lone pusher, positioned in the top of the crown, starts, stops and resets the chronograph. It’s a #one-stop shop for all of your stopwatch needs. By combining it with the crown it endows the case with a clean, uncluttered profile.
But a leftfield design can also be eminently logical. A pusher on the left side of the case proves more #intuitive to use. When using a chronograph, the wearer observes the start of an event, actuates the stopwatch function and, thereafter, at the end of the event, halts the timer. The potential problem is the human factor, namely the time gap between seeing an event and pressing the push-piece. The shorter the gap between observation andpressing the pusher, the more validity the recorded elapsed time has. The thumb is the fastest actingdigit, hence with thisdesign, a right-handedperson will instinctively place their plumpest digit on the push-piece and press it with lightning-bolt alacrity.
Another key benefit of positioning the combined crown and monopusher on the left is superior wearer comfort. Often when a watch is worn and the wearer flexes their wrist, the protrusions on the right flank of the case gouge the wrist, chafe the skin or inhibit free movement. The Fortress’s leftfield approach causes no such problems.
The blue sunray dial and the black grained dial feature #bold, luminescent hour and minutes which collaborate with ample, applied Arabic numerals, imparting meaning. The dial has two circular brushed counters, a small seconds display at 3 o’clock and a 30-minute chronograph register at 6 o’clock. A date display is located adjacent the monopusher/crown. Housed in a 47mm stainless steel case, the generous proportions of the watch confer impressive wrist presence, while the exhibition caseback affords sight of the Fortress’s Swiss automatic movement.
This rebellious firm doesn’t subscribe to slick marketing, it chooses to focus on making excellent watches, rich in character. Indeed, the Graham Fortress Ltd is a serious watch from a company who still knows how to have #fun.
The silence has been eerie these last two years on the outskirts of Le Mans. Anyone familiar with the world’s most iconic historic racing event will know that every second July, the whole town vibrates to the sound of scorched tarmac in the distance. The legendary race, Le Mans Classic will return not only in 2022, but exceptionally the next year too, in 2023, to mark the centenary of the very first race on the Le Mans 24 Hours circuit.
Usually, 700 historic racing cars take to the legendary Bugatti circuit together with 8,500 others in the club areas. The event is more than likely to top next year the record of 135,000 spectators it last saw in 2018. Richard Mille has been a partner ever since its inception in 2002 and has created the 8th model dedicated specifically to this event, a limited edition of 150 timepieces, the RM 029 Automatic Le Mans Classic. Aficionados will instantly recognize the timeless green and white color combination of one of the world’s greatest historic racing event.
The RM 029 Automatic Le Mans Classic, with total case dimensions of 40.10 x 48.15 x 13.10 mm, has a caseband milled from a solid block of white Quartz TPT, offset by front and back bezels in green Quartz TPT. The front bezel sports the characteristic double Le Mans stripes. These have been created from separate pieces of white Quartz TPT that has been inlaid into the green Quartz TPT bezel at 12 and 6 o’clock – a first for the brand. The vibrancy of this classic color combination is perfectly accentuated by a sporty white vented strap in rubber, guaranteeing excellent long-term comfort.
The skeletonised grade 5 titanium calibre RMAS7 movement with its oversize date window at 4 o’clock and a unique variable geometry rotor system driving double winding barrels forms the heart of the new RM 029 Automatic Le Mans Classic. A dedicated and finely detailed 24-hour counter at 2 o’clock pays fitting homage not only to the event itself but also to the hundreds of automobiles and drivers who relay over the 24 hours, starting at 4pm (indicated by a blue arrow).
Day or night, this limited edition gets fans and drivers alike back where they belong – out on the circuit, crossing the legendary Le Mans black and white chequered flag in perfect time.
Each of the three models in the new RM 07-01 Coloured Ceramics collection, set apart by brand new ceramic case colour and graphic dial elements, is limited to an edition of 50 timepieces.
The RM 07-01 Pastel Blue, RM 07-01 Pastel Pink and RM 07-01 Pastel Lavender are shots of sheer summer delight, housed in cases of ceramic and animated by the automatic CRMA2 in-house movement. The segmented central dial plates are assembled from inserts of ceramic, geometrically patterned rubber and — a first for Richard Mille hand-crafted guillochage.
The rhodium-plated red-gold dial element at the center of each RM 07-01 is a segment of a larger pattern, a motif that is part botanical with six lobbed, part sunburst, part Art Deco and all Richard Mille. Surrounding the guilloché dial segment and reinforcing the theme of modernity blended with tradition, are geometrically shaped elements of ceramic and rubber, in perfect complement with the ceramic case and bi-colour rubber straps.
There are three colour variations within the collection — TZP pink ceramic with cerulean-lilac rubber strap, TZP lavender ceramic with coral-tangerine rubber strap, and TZP blue ceramic with olive-aqua rubber strap.
Together with the bright energy of the bi-colour rubber straps and the hand-finished sheen of the gold guilloché dial, the ceramic cases of the new RM 07-01 make for three of the most enjoyable Richard Mille watches.
Richard Mille is known for its complex tonneau cases, openworked movements and above all, its fearless use of color. The latter is the standout feature of three new RM 07-01 Colored Ceramic editions. Each of the three editions is rendered in a unique combination of colors: the Pastel Blue combines light blue with turquoise accents; the Pastel Pink mixes purple and blue highlights; and the Pastel Lavender comes with red and orange elements.
The three-part case is a wearable 31.40 x 45.23 x 11.85 mm, and although the RM 07-01 is known as a ladies’ watch, the thickness and length are substantial enough for any wrist. The technicolor models are made of a pure ceramic called tetragonal zirconia polycrystal, which contains 95% zirconia. Richard Mille says the material is scratch resistant to 1,400 vickers, tougher than sapphire. A long and difficult machining and grinding process using diamond tools is required to create the complex forms of the bezel. The caseband is crafted in micro-blasted white gold with hand-polished pillars, while the base plate and bridges are made of micro-blasted grade 5 titanium
The dial is made using a combination of traditional and modern techniques. It starts with a rhodium-plated red gold center that is finished in a guilloché motif that the company describes as “part botanical, part sunburst and part Art Deco.” This is the first time Richard Mille, a rigorously contemporary brand, has applied guilloché to a watch dial, but the unusual pattern gives this old-world craft a modern kick. The center is surrounded by microblasted ceramic inserts and geometrically patterned rubber appliqués in various interesting configurations and colors. The straps are bi-colored, matching elements of the case: in cerulean-lilac, coral-tangerine or olive-aqua.
Although the mainline Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Tourbillon Chronograph Openworked series enjoys near-universal esteem as the progenitor of the luxury stainless steel “bracelet watch,” its younger sibling the Royal Oak Offshore has historically carried a more divisive reputation. Without the weight of the standard Royal Oak’s reputation to confine it, the Royal Oak Offshore series has evolved into its own distinct entity, with a bolder, louder, and more aggressive personality than the parent line. For 2021, the brand has introduced a new flagship for the Royal Oak’s brasher younger sibling, one which combines a revised case design with a new case size and a spectacular set of complications. The new limited-edition Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Chronograph offers a tauter, more muscular interpretation of the Royal Oak Offshore design alongside an ultra-modern skeletonized flying tourbillon movement.
Measuring in at 43mm, the sandblasted titanium case of the new Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Chronograph is immediately recognizable as a Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Tourbillon Chronograph Openworked but evolves the concept in a more futuristic and aggressive direction. Sitting at a midpoint between existing 42mm and 44mm Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Chronograph models, this new case keeps signature elements like the tall octagonal blasted and polished bezel and the integrated lug design but substantially reshapes the chronograph pushers and crown guards. This new assembly is at once angular and muscular, with a taut organic flow that calls to mind modern Lamborghini in images. Wide chamfered and bead-blasted crown guards are deeply cut back to showcase heavily faceted black ceramic chronograph pushers, before sharply angling back outward to flank the octagonal black ceramic crown. Other changes to the Royal Oak Offshore formula here are subtle but also add to the sense of muscularity in the overall design as opposed to the monolithic heft found in other case variants. Perhaps the best example of this is the polished chamfer that runs the length of the case atop the integrated lugs. For this model, the chamfer tapers outward to the lug tips much more aggressively than the 42mm or 44mm cases, and this wider flowing taper introduces a brighter flash to the visual equation while helping to introduce an implied curve to this famously angular case. On the backside, the edge of the sapphire display caseback mimics the iconic Royal Oak bezel with its octagonal shape and accenting screws. While the overall new form is aggressive, strong, and extremely sporty, its actual water resistance is rated at a mildly disappointing 100 meters.
Rather than the traditional mega-tapisserie dial texture of most Royal Oak Offshore models, this new Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Tourbillon Chronograph Openworked opts for an ultramodern skeleton treatment. Like the case, there are shades of modern supercars in the skeleton design, particularly in the wide chamfered bridges flanking the 6 o’clock flying tourbillon and the vent-like ridged structure of the movement plate beneath. The brushed black titanium main surface of these bridges and the overall simplicity of the bridge layout keep the visual focus on the timekeeping elements in initial images, with the mainspring barrel and brushed gear train elements forming a visual backdrop for the top half of the dial. With its oversized form, uncluttered surroundings, and framing bridges, the flying tourbillon at 6 o’clock forms a natural visual centerpiece, with a slim three-pronged tourbillon cage that showcases the inner workings of the escapement as much as possible. To aid legibility against this skeleton background, all elements of the flyback chronograph are highlighted in bold fire engine red, including the central chronograph seconds hand and the hands of the off-axis skeleton subdials. Bright polished 18k white gold helps the skeleton paddle handset stand out against the predominantly black backdrop as well.
Audemars Piguet powers the new Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Tourbillon Chronograph Openworked with its in-house Calibre 2967 automatic flying tourbillon flyback chronograph movement. First appearing in the Code 11.59 series, the Calibre 2967 receives a substantial aesthetic overhaul to match the sporty and aggressive look of the Royal Oak Offshore line. Beyond the visual facelift, this is still Audemars Piguet’s first-ever flying tourbillon equipped flyback chronograph movement, and the ultramodern skeleton design sports a solid 65-hour power reserve at a 21,600 bph beat rate. Audemars Piguet finishes the watch with its new easy interchange integrated strap system. While the black rubber strap with its revised and sharply tapering grooves is a sporty match for the aggressive look of the Offshore, the watch also includes a hand-stitched black alligator-leather strap.
With one of the brand’s most striking modern movements and a muscular new evolution of the classic Royal Oak design, the new limited-edition Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Chronograph is an aggressive new flagship for the line and a potential look forward at the stylistic future of the Royal Oak offshore series. Only 100 examples of the new Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Tourbillon Chronograph will be made. While Audemars Piguet has declined to reveal the exact pricing of this new model, MSRP is expected to be well into the six-figure range.
Street artistAstronomia Alec Monopolyhas lent his own inimitable style to Jacob & Co.’s flagship timepiece, the Astronomia, for a new limited edition collaboration.
A limited run of nine pieces are being produced featuring the recurring themes and characters seen in Monopoly’s body of work. That means a dial featuring statuettes of Scrooge McDuck, Monopoly Man, Money Wings and the almighty dollar.
The characters are drawn by Monopoly before being rendered in CAD to establish working dimensions, each is then hand sculpted and cast in gold before being hand-finished and finally hand-painted by Monopoly using bright acrylic paints.
“This is by far the smallest scale ‘canvas’ I have ever painted. Every element, brushstroke and color choice needed to be carefully thought out and perfectly executed,” says Monopoly. “My street art murals are often free flowing and wild but given the intricacies and meticulous mechanics within these watches I needed to approach the creative process with much more precision and patience.”
This 18k rose gold Astronomia’s manually wound four-arm movement is fixed at the centre of a black night sky base with each arm supporting a different mechanical feat, including a rotating one-carat spherical Jacob-cut diamond, a rotating hand-lacquered magnesium globe, a double axis tourbillon and a watch dial displaying minutes and hours.
“Alec is a young artist that started his career taking risks and not thinking twice about it,” says founder Jacob Arabo. “He acted as if he had nothing to lose and he continued to persist until he broke through to become world famous for his creativity and unique angle. I started out the same way by doing something different and unique and I persisted until I was able to break through.”
Recently, Jacob & Co. announced a partnership with graffiti artist Alec Monopoly. Monopoly previously had a partnership with TAG Heuer, so he is no stranger to the watch world. This first collaborative effort with Jacob & Co. is the fruit of great co-mingling, with the result being a highly colorful art piece based on Jacob & Co.’s famed Astronomia three-dimensional watches. The Astronomia Alec Monopoly watch, with four-arm vertical movement and complications, features tiny characters found in Monopoly’s work.
Crafted in 18-karat rose gold, the watch boasts a sapphire crystal and fours sapphire case sides for easy viewing of the movement and the animation inside. Against a sleek backdrop base that emulates a black night sky with stars, the signature Jacob & Co. Astronomia revolving double-axis tourbillon — opposite the revolving watch dial placed on a patented differential gear system — is perpendicular to the arm that boasts the three-dimensional hand-lacquered magnesium Earth globe on one side and a Jacob & Co. proprietary faceted Jacob Cut one-carat diamond with 288 facets on the opposite side. The diamond makes one rotation per minute. The highly complex JCAM10 caliber boasts 365 parts and offers 60 hours of power reserve.
These rotating complications, though, take a backseat in this watch to Alec Monopoly’s art, which comes into play in the form of whimsical three-dimensional characters and bold colors. To begin with, the hands on the watch dial are bright lime green, a signature Alex Monopoly color. Other colors range from hot pink to bright red, and more.
Jacob & Co has unveiled its first watch made in partnership with internationally renowned contemporary graffiti artist, Alec Monopoly.
The Astronomia Alec Monopoly contains miniature pop characters and images that are staples of Monopoly’s artwork within the iconic Astronomia watch form, with its four-arm vertical movement and exclusive complications including a hand-lacquered globe of the earth rotating every 60 seconds; and a double-axis tourbillon with the first rotation in 60 seconds and the second rotation in five minutes. The ultra-haute jewellery and watchmaker and irreverent street artist Astronomia Alec Monopoly may be strange bedfellows, but they share a vision for taking their passions to the extreme.
“Alec is a young artist that started his career taking risks and not thinking twice about it,” Jacob Arabo, founder of Jacob & Co, says. “He acted as if he had nothing to lose and he continued to persist until he broke through to become world famous for his creativity and unique angle. I started out the same way by doing something different and unique and I persisted until I was able to break through.”
Mr Monopoly recalls running into Mr Arabo at events around the world, and eventually acquired his own Astronomia Tourbillon “and immediately fell in love with the brand”.
“There is just so much thought, time and talent put into each of these timepieces,” Mr Monopoly says. “This collaboration is a work of art within a work of art.”
The Astronomia Alec Monopoly has four main sculptures on the dial: a Monopoly Man holding an ice cream cone with a melting pink dollar sign; an interpretation of Scrooge McDuck, holding a Money Bag with gold coins piled at his feet, Money Wings, and a multicoloured dollar sign with multiple drawings of diamonds, dollar bills and the Jacob & Co. logo.
“I love the juxtaposition of my youthful cartoon characters, brought to life with bright and vivid colors in a timeless watch with stunning complications,” Mr Monopoly says. “It’s the perfect setting for my art and a watch made for true collectors to wear. My hope is this is a watch that gets passed down generations with the same passion and pride as a masterpiece original artwork.”
Ulysse Nardin’s connection to sea exploration began in the 19th century, when the brand crafted precision marine chronometers to aid sailors’ navigation on the open seas. Today, of course, modern seafaring navigation doesn’t require onboard mechanical marine chronometers, so there is no longer any demand for them (except for collectors).
We’re at about the century mark for water-resistant wristwatches, and for decades top brands have consistently improved upon their water-resistant and diver watches.
One of those brands is Ulysse Nardin Lady Diver 39mm. Counting the three new diving watches detailed below, the brand offers 38 different timepieces in the Diver collection. The breadth of this collection and its myriad style options offers a timepiece to suit almost any taste and level of marine activity.
The largest of the new pieces, the Diver Chronometer 44mm (ref. 1185-170-3/BLUE), offers complications not usually associated with diver “tool” watches. In addition to the essential unidirectional rotating bezel for timing dives, the 44mm watch has a power reserve indicator and a combination small seconds-date indicator at 6 o’clock.
The case is titanium with a blue PVD (physical vapor deposition) coating. The bezel is also blue, with 18K rose gold numerals, indices, and outer ring. The watch’s hands and hour indices are also rose gold, with a rich coating of glow-in-the-dark Super-LumiNova. A blue rubber strap with a blued titanium buckle completes the elegant yet rugged look of the timepiece.
Second in size is the Diver 42mm watch (ref. 8163-175/GREY-5N) in a rich grey that Ulysse Nardin calls “shark grey.” Powered by the calibre UN-816 automatic movement, the watch has 18K rose gold accents on its bezel, and its hour indices and hands are coated with Super-LumiNova. Also, its sandblasted grey dial features a relatively undersized date at 6 o’clock so that it doesn’t distract from the hands or bezel.
Overall, the watch, priced at $10,400, has a stealthy look to it, with its grey matte satin-finished case, grey rubber bezel, and grey alligator strap. Stealthiness is essential for sharks on the hunt, making “shark grey” quite an apt name for the watch’s color.
Dazzling diamonds are the focal point of the third new model, the Lady Diver 39mm (ref. 8162-182B1-0A/3A). The watch’s case is crafted of rich 18K rose gold, with 40 individually set diamonds on its bezel. Moreover, the new model has an opalescent mother-of-pearl dial, a nod to the ocean’s riches. Diamonds also serve as hour markers for the watch, and it has a small date at 6 o’clock.
For all its sparkle, the new Ulysse Nardin Lady Diver 39mm – available for $25,800 on either a white rubber or alligator strap – packs plenty of watchmaking power with its calibre UN-816 automatic movement.
Last but not least, the 15-piece Ulysse Nardin Diver Chronometer 44mm Beau Lake Limited Edition is the result of a design partnership between the two brands, both of which are dedicated to ultimate hand craftsmanship.
This limited edition is almost identical to the new Diver Chronometer we already discussed, but the Ulysse Nardin x Beau Lake model bears both brand names on the dial. Plus, the $16,300 limited edition watch comes with a rosewood-wrapped, custom 11’6” Malibu paddle board featuring Ulysse Nardin’s anchor logo. All of Beau Lake’s products “blend vintage aesthetics with high performance,” according to the brand. And the Malibu’s design inspiration comes from “Gibson guitars and ‘50s surf culture.” Also included are a matching Ulysse Nardin Lady Diver 39mm-embossed paddle and a travel bag.
Ulysse Nardin and Beau Lake share “a love of life on the water, a sense of adventure, and appreciation for history,” the brands said in a statement, and it shows!
Drawing synergies between Haute Couture and Haute Horlogerie, photographer Harley Weir explores how a timepiece or a Couture look reflects the wearer’s personality and free-spirited attitude.
Eclectic in colour, savoir-faire, materials and style, the Audemars Piguet 2021 summer collection finds inspiration in diverse worlds to present a kaleidoscopic view of the contemporary woman.
Blending tradition with avant-garde, the variegated timepieces offer creative contrasts, from the sleek aesthetics of black ceramics to the shimmering sparkle of Frosted Gold or the vivid hues of multicoloured gemstones. These multifaceted mechanical pieces will be true statements when worn on the wrist.
ROYAL OAK SELFWINDING
DRESSED IN BLACK CERAMICS
The refined aesthetic of this black model in 34 mm is enhanced with pink gold accents for a subtle two-tone contrast. Timeless and versatile, the black hues will seamlessly complement the unique style of its wearer.
FROSTED GOLD SELFWINDING
The 18-carat white gold case is adorned with Frosted Gold and enhanced with a Tapisserie dial in new shades of blue. This unique combination celebrates the savoir-faire and refinement at the heart of the Manufacture’s craftsmanship.
DOUBLE BALANCE WHEEL OPENWORKED
The attention to detail at the heart of these timepieces and their interplay of colours, materials and refined decorations draw inspirations from diverse worlds, including Haute Joaillerie and Haute Couture.
Developed by the Manufacture’s artisans, the dial displays a range of purple hues that dance and change in the light. The amethysts decorating the bezel match the tones of the purple dial to perfection.
My inspiration for the shoot was to think about the way the watch was made and its different materials and then think about how the woman is made, what is part of her personality, what is her character, who she is… fashion has always intrigued me as well in that sense, building your character. I love this idea that people wear part of themselves visually, so the people can show on their bodies what they desire inside.
LES VOILES DE ST BARTH RICHARD MILLE – THE BRAND NAILS ITS COLORS TO THE MAST!
• The RM 60-01 Automatic Flyback Chronograph Les Voiles de St Barth, a new limited edition of 80 pieces • Supporting the event through thick and thin, despite this year’s cancellation
• Richard Mille will donate all the proceeds from the sale of an RM 60-01 to local causes in St Barths
The brand is determined to support this stunning event through trying times. Richard Mille presents a new 80 limited pieces edition, the RM 60-01 Automatic Flyback Chronograph Les Voiles de St Barth, a proof of its long-term commitment to one of the world’s leading regattas, through thick and thin!
A brief return to St Barths in April 2020 had initially given hope that the 2021 edition of Les Voiles would go ahead. New conditions for entering and leaving the island together with quarantine and obligatory reasons for travel unfortunately made such an international event logistically impossible even this year. Every edition of Les Voiles has seen the winner receive a Richard Mille watch. With no event this year we deemed it the obligation of Richard Mille to donate all the proceeds of the sale of an RM 60-01 to local causes in St Barths. The brand is in talks with the authorities to decide together which projects could benefit from this whether it be for local health facilities or environmental projects.
Veering from serene to extreme, Les Voiles de St Barth Richard Mille has always stood out as a state of the art rendez-vous for top notch competitiveness and record-breaking technology. Richard Mille was there right from the start in 2010. Over its first decade the competition welcomed tens of thousands of sailors and close to 500 boats from the four corners of the world – on average 80 crews competing in 7 classes each edition – swiftly imposing itself as one of the highlights of the Caribbean season.
The heady mix of extreme conditions makes this event truly unique.
Due to this success, Richard Mille decided to set a new course in 2019, nailing its colors to the mast as title sponsor for the re-baptized Les Voiles de St Barth Richard Mille. ‘We have supported the event from the get-go. It is a thrill to see the recognition this international regatta has now achieved.
Every year the quality of the yachts and crew reaffirms its status as the race to win in the Caribbean,’ said Tim Malachard, Marketing Director at Richard Mille.
The RM 028 Les Voiles de St Barth edition was the first with 100 timepieces in 2010 and marked the event’s inception. The baton was subsequently passed to the RM 60-01 Regatta with 50 pieces editions in both 2015 and 2017. Impossible to imagine a watch more specifically developed to meet the needs of skippers worldwide. Powered by the automatic-winding movement RMAC2 calibre, it has an autonomy of circa 55 hours. A flyback chronograph and oversize date display at 12 o’clock together with its month indicator make it the perfect companion for the high seas. A 60-minute countdown timer at 9 o’clock combined with the 24-hour totalizer at 6 o’clock add to the nautical mindset.
Its main asset: The orientation both of the Northern and Southern Hemispheres without any calculation. The UTC hand is placed pointing towards the sun. Then the rotating bezel – for the first time in Carbon TPT, – just needs to be set in order for the UTC hand to indicate the local hour displayed on the bezel.
The compass headings North, South, East and West therefore align themselves with the actual direction on the Earth’s surface. This adaptability anywhere on the high seas is what sets the RM 60-01 apart from other “regatta” watches.
With the regatta’s colors flying high, the superb flange in turquoise highlighted with Les Voiles de St Barth Richard Mille logo on the glass back, the RM 60-01 Automatic Flyback Chronograph Les Voiles de St Barth can truly claim pride of place as a watch for the Seven Seas. What better emblem, what better symbol of the brand’s unswerving support could there be as we all set sail – hopefully! –towards a gleaming new regatta in 2022.
This week Richard Mille announced the 2021 RM 60-01 Automatic Flyback Chronograph Les Voiles de St Barth.
The titanium RM 60-01 takes on a round case shape that measures a massive 50 mm x 16.33 mm and is being produced in support of the 2021 edition of Les Voiles regatta — despite the event being canceled this year. Richard Mille is donating all of the proceeds from the sale of the RM 60-01 Automatic Flyback Chronograph Les Voiles de St Barth to local causes on the island.
The RM 028 Les Voiles de St Barth edition was the first watch associated with the St Barth’s Regatta, in 2010, limited to 100 timepieces. That was followed by the RM 60-01 Regatta with 50 pieces editions in both 2015 and 2017. The RM 60-01 is back with a new version for 2021, limited to 80 pieces.
As with past iterations, there’s a countdown timer. This one is unique within the regatta watch niche, in that the countdown display — located in a subdial at 9 o’clock — can read elapsed time 0-60 minutes, as well as remaining time from 60-0. There’s also a 24-hour counter at 6 o’clock, for counting events that exceed 60-minutes.
Richard Mille automatic caliber RMAC2 has a 55-hour power reserve, a flyback chronograph, an oversized date display at 12 o’clock, as well as a month indicator.
The marquee function of the RM 60-01 is the orientation of both the Northern and Southern Hemispheres without any complex calculations required. Simply adjust the central UTC hand so it’s pointing towards the sun, and then rotate the bezel so the local hours are displayed on the bezel. The compass headings North, South, East, and West, are then aligned correctly.
For the first time, the RM 60-01 bezel features Carbon TPT, which is lightweight, durable, and enhances the sportiness and look of the watch — and provides high contrast to the white, turquoise, red, and yellow markings.
Two years after the highly contrasting shades of the RM 71-01 (you can peruse our introduction here ), Richard Mille is dispatching the new RM 71-02 Automatic Tourbillon Talisman collection whose heroes are the kaleidoscopic shades of the valuable stones enhancing the watches. Comprised of ten models, each introduced in a restricted version of 7 pieces, the assortment is by one way or another propelled by the club culture of the 1970s and the introduction of electronic and disco music. Jewels, sapphires, rubies, tsavorites, peridots, lapis lazuli, chrysolemon, malachite, mother-of-pearl, turquoise, pink opal and jasper are only a portion of the beautiful components utilized by Cécile Guenat, Creative and Development Director at Richard Mille, for these select manifestations. The valuable stones are set in mathematical themes over the whole case just as the dial on account of a stunning work of craftsmanship. Just envision that over a half year were expected to approve the stones’ situating, size and sort of setting to accomplish the exact impact sought. The ten models contrast in the course of action of their stones, their setting design, their etching and the focal improvement of the 0,90 mm thickness dial. All models are housed in 52.20 x 34.40 x 12.50 mm white gold cases and powered by oneself winding CRMT1 type that was initially produced for the RM 71-01 Automatic Tourbillon Talisman assortment in 2018. The eighth in-house development of Richard Mille just as its first programmed tourbillon type, this skeletonised and tonneau-molded type is simply 6.2 mm thick and weighs just 8 grams. The instrument consolidates another programmed tourbillon that is especially thin, super elite and upgraded with shining jewels, mother-of-pearl, onyx and dark sapphires. The baseplate ensuring the tourbillon’s pivot stays open to protect straightforwardness. Beating at 28,800 vibrations each hour and offering a force save of 50 hours, the new development includes a diamond set bidirectional rotor with variable math that empowers twisting to be acclimated to the owner’s action level. Each model is related to a lady’s name. Bianca Pink sapphires, tsavorites, jewels, peridots, rubies, hematite, pink opal Number of stones: 941 Carats: 4,96 Carmen Sapphires and yellow sapphires, precious stones, tsavorites, peridots, lapis lazuli, chrysolemon, malachite Number of stones: 971 Carats: 5,42 Diana Sapphires, rubies, jewels, lapis lazuli, white mother-of-pearl, turquoise Number of stones: 915 Carats: 5,59 Donna Pink and yellow sapphires, jewels, spessartites, rubies, pink opal, hematite Number of stones: 823 Carats: 3,88 Gloria Pink and yellow sapphires, dark spinels, spessartites, precious stones, pink opal, onyx, hematite Number of stones: 967 Carats: 5,26 Grace Sapphires, pink sapphires, jewels, amethysts, tsavorites, rubies, chrysoprase, opal Number of stones: 964 Carats: 5,05 Jane Sapphires, yellow and pink sapphires, precious stones, spessartites, rubies, turquoise, opal Number of stones: 962 Carats: 4,95 Jessica Sapphires, yellow sapphires, precious stones, spessartites, turquoise, lapis lazuli, hematite Number of stones: 954 Carats: 5,58 Liz Tsavorites, peridots, purple sapphires, amethysts, jewels, sugilite, chrysolemon, malachite Number of stones: 817 Carats: 4,45 Paloma Sapphires, pink sapphires, jewels, pink mother-of-pearl, lapis lazuli, jasper, onyx, dark spinels Number of stones: 892 Carats: 5,79 The watches are coordinated to a complete arrangement of arm bands uniquely intended for each model. Emblazoned with vegetal themes at 12 o’clock and mathematical lines at 6 o’clock, every wristband highlights two unique shades with a metallic treatment on the cowhide. richardmille.com Suggested perusing: – Richard Mille’s journey for development: innovative materials – The historical backdrop of the Richard Mille brand
A profusion of light in prismatic colours. An eruption of coloured stones. Two years after the black and white shades of the RM 71-01, the brand new RM 71-02 Automatic Tourbillon Talisman collection brings colour to its apotheosis in the Richard Mille universe. A collection of ten models, each presented in a limited edition of 7 pieces, imbued with the quintessence of the ’70s. Marked by the rise of club culture, as well as the birth of electronic and disco music, this decade saw an urban tribe of night owls emerge, creatures that donned their most beautiful plumage at nightfall. Cécile Guenat, Creative and Development Director at Richard Mille, revisited the unapologetic individualism of the disco era. She has captured the play of light, sound and colour in a synthesis of the various strata that together make up 1970s culture: from the haunting rhythm of the era’s hits, to the theatrical decor of Studio 54, to say nothing of the period’s fashion predilection for shiny lamé, rhinestones and sequins… Ten watches, each exhuberently flaunting their own strength and beauty. A profusion of colour and a combination of stones never seen before at Richard Mille. Tsavorites, flamboyant spessartites, amethysts, diamonds, spinels, rubies and sapphires conjure a magnetic alchemy. An energy and talismanic spirit is linked to the ornamented dials: hematite is associated with strength, malachite with inner balance, lapis lazuli with vision, sugilite with protection, pink opal with healing… The new Talisman collection showcases the singular qualities of these pieces through highly symbolic choices of precious stones, set in geometric motifs over the entire case as well as the dial. A supreme work of craftsmanship, for which more than six months were needed to validate the stones’ positioning to achieve the precise effect sought. ‘The intense glamour of the disco era resided in a multiplication of colours and textures,’ explained Cécile Guenat. ‘I had to find a way to make this idea tangible. Working with the stones themselves proved to be a considerable challenge. Because stones of very similar hues can end up looking completely different depending on their size and the type of setting.’
The ten models differ in the arrangement of their stones, their setting pattern, their engraving and the central decoration of the 0,90 mm thickness dial. They all, however, share the same CRMT1 calibre. Presented for the first time as part of the RM 71-01 Automatic Tourbillon Talisman collection in 2018, the CRMT1 is Richard Mille’s eighth in-house movement but its first automatic tourbillon calibre. A feat requiring 1,000 hours of development, it is a true technical achievement, given that the tourbillon mechanism is integrated into the heart of a movement only 6.2 mm thick and weighing just 8 grams. Developed for daily wear, this calibre reaffirms Richard Mille’s unwavering commitment to the pursuit of extreme mechanical innovation. Both artistic and mechanical know-how are perfectly reflected in this new collection, accompanied by a complete series of bracelets specially designed for each model. Bracelets – embossed with discreet vegetal motifs at 12 o’clock and geometric lines at 6 o’clock – each featuring two different shades, and whose metallic treatment on the patent leather enhances the visual impact of the stones.
Each component of the Richard Mille RM 71-02 Automatic Tourbillon Talisman collection thus radiates bewitching raw energy, carrying on the spirit of this era, whose lasting cultural legacy is universal.
Richard Mille RM 71-02 Automatic Tourbillon Talisman Collection Technical Specifications
Microblasted grade 5 titanium with PVD treatment lends great rigidity to the baseplate and the bridges, as well as the precise surface flatness essential for perfect functioning of the gear train.
The skeletonised baseplate and bridges were subjected to intensive and complete validation tests to optimise their resistance capacities.
This type of balance wheel represents the ultimate in innovation. It guarantees greater reliability when subjected to shocks and during movement assembly or disassembly, hence better chronometric results over time. The regulator index is eliminated, and a more accurate and repeatable calibration is possible thanks to 4 small, adjustable weights located directly on the balance.