Category: Perfect Wrist
Jacob & Co has taken a leap into the world of cryptocurrency with the launch of its all-new Astronomia Solar Bitcoin watch – a highly complex timepiece that marks the intersection between the historic world of horology and the groundbreaking age of crypto.
As the latest in the watchmaker’s highly coveted Jacob & Co Astronomia Solar Bitcoin collection, the Astronomia Solar Bitcoin has been created with adaptability in mind and uses an adapted version of its classic movement, with a titanium 44-mm case. Subjected to Diamond Like Carbon processing, which coats the metal in a layer of crystallized carbon atoms, this case is as black as coal and hard as diamond.
In true Jacob & Co Astronomia Solar Bitcoin fashion, the watch is rich with complications, with no less than 444 elements in total. Set across two rotating platforms, the illustrative timepiece is adorned with artistic references to crypto and its journey from financial outlier to mainstay payment.
Symbols include a Jacob & Co Astronomia Solar Bitcoin currency logo, a yellow sapphire sun, a diamond moon, a golden earth and a miniature rocket ship, all of which sit alongside a delicately decorated one-minute flying tourbillon.
These elements are all built on to three arms of the second platform and encircled by keywords from the Bitcoin universe. Below the upper platform is the rotating mainplate, which features a fitting integrated circuit microchip design. The top platform completes a rotation around the watch’s center every 10 minutes, and in doing so simultaneously propels the movement’s background counterclockwise every 11 minutes. Not content with this level of animation, the watch’s mainplate also spins on its own axis every 11 minutes.
The entire rotating structure is surrounded by a single-pane sapphire crystal viewing window, providing an unobstructed view of the magic within. A black alligator strap promises unrivaled comfort for the wearer.
Just 25 pieces of this ground-breaking timepiece are available and naturally, payment will be accepted in a cryptocurrency of the buyers choosing – Bitcoin or altcoin – with a real-world value of approximately $348,000.
The new Rado Captain Cook Chronograph from Rado fuses most modern design, technology and style. It boasts updated, exquisite proportions thanks to a unique, slimmer automatic movement.
Rado has launched three variants of the new Captain Cook chronograph, in distinct shades and strap/bracelet configurations sure to please even the most demanding enthusiasts. Two models are in stainless steel and one in bronze.
The new Rado Captain Cook Chronograph is mounted with the characteristic box-shaped glass, in scratch-resistant sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment on both faces.
The thinner, more comfortable and stylish 43mm case comes in either polished stainless steel or circular-brushed bronze. The polished high-tech ceramic inlay on the bezel, in blue or black, is a perfect complement to the flange and the dial colour of the particular model.
Presented in a silver-to-blue gradient, silver-to-black or blue sunray finish, the dial features appliquéd indices, markers and numerals. The key elements are treated with Super-LumiNova\ for excellent readability even in low-light conditions.
In particular, the hour hand, with its bold and characteristic arrowhead tip, and the minute hand, strong and unmistakeable, as well as the red-tipped chronograph seconds sweeper, allow easy timekeeping in any exploration or journey, in the city or the great outdoors. The anchor symbol remains a delightful touch, in rhodium colour against a red backplate on this rugged and reliable timepiece, whose features now include a chronograph dial at 9 and standard seconds at 3 o’clock, in perfect visual equilibrium with the lower date window at 6 o’clock.
The date itself is displayed in red against silver, in keeping with former models. Inside, the new, thinner R801 automatic movement, with 37 jewels, five hands and 59 hours of power reserve thanks to a NivachronTM anti-magnetic hairspring, exceeds standard accuracy test requirements by as much as five positions. Water resistance to 30 bar is assured by a screw-down case back, screw-in crown and pushbuttons, and Rado’s predictably unwavering high-quality production technics. The new Captain Cook Chronograph is delivered with two additional straps in different materials and shades, according to the specific model.
The two stainless steel models come with a matching three-row stainless steel bracelet with brushed central links and extensible folding clasp, and an additional coffee-brown or blue leather strap with contrasting stitching, as well as a sporty NATO-style, woven nylon strap, in blue or black, with steel pin-buckle closure.
The bronze-coloured Rado Captain Cook Chronograph model comes with a NATO-style strap with a gold-coloured stripe down the centre, as well as a blue leather strap with accent stitching, and an additional NATO-style strap in deep blue, all with bronze pin-buckle closure.
The new Rado Captain Cook Chronograph comes in a special case inspired by the built-to-last, two-strapped treasure chests of ancient explorers and navigators.
Protected by a tough, black diver-nylon outer covering, the wooden (FSC) box is equipped with metal hardware, around a soft ivory-coloured interior where your spare straps can be safely stored, along with your favourite Rado, when not in use.
U-Boat launches 2 new watches in their Classico lineup with two novelties in either a beige or black dial, now sporting a smaller 42mm case.
U-Boat is an Italian brand based on Tuscany. The watches are typically very large, from 45mm to 50mm and often seen as a different take to Italian dive watches than brands like Panerai. Designed by founder and creative director Italo Fontana, the U-Boat Classico 42 Tungsteno lineup is a collection which U-Boat describes as one which “takes elegance to a whole new level”. In our opinion, we will not accuse of any of the U-Boat creations as elegant by any stretch of imagination. Though at 42mm, this novelty is somewhat smaller than the watches in the Classico series, if we do not include a model identified as Stratos in 40mm.
The series has a strong aesthetic which we would describe as rough and tough tool watch. The design is of the Classico collection is a destro arrangement with the crown on the left at 9 o’clock. The crown is protected by a patented crown protection system, one which is alike yet unlike the one found on Panerai. The guard is actually a huge crown cap, which is attached by a metal hinge at 7 o’clock and can be unscrewed to reveal the real crown. Though this is a kind of a armour which may offer some measure of protection for the crown, we feel the design is not particularly elegant.
Also of interest is that the model name says Tungsteno, which translate to Tungsten in Italian, leads us to think that the case is made of tungsten. However, only the bezel is made of tungsten and not the entire case which is stainless steel in this new 42mm case sized U-Boat Classico 42 Tungsteno .
The case looks very robust, but water resistance is only rated to 100m. The movement is only specified as Swiss automatic winding Caliber STP 1-11. This leads us to assume that the movement is the Swiss Technology Production (a Fossil company) and a derivative of the ubqutious Sellita SW200-1/ETA 2824-1. The base specifications – dimensions, no of jewels, power reserve does line up. U-Boat specifies a custom rotor which is skeletonised to bear the U-Boat logo. However, the STP data sheet for the C. 1-11 says that the movement is time only with date, and is without the 24 hour indicator which is found on the U-Boat Classico 42. We are not certain if this is a special modification specified by U-Boat.
The Maison from Lucca reinterprets its U-Boat Classico 42 Tungsteno model in two versions, beige and black, with a reduced case size of 42 mm, tungsten bezel, glass caseback and visible movement.
A Classic is forever and when the design becomes iconic, it would be a mortal sin to change it.
U-BOAT re-proposes its acclaimed time only Classico model, characterized by clean and essential lines, with 42 mm AISI 316L steel case and polished tungsten bezel.
The Classico model is now presented in two dial versions, in black and beige with indexes and numerals treated with SuperLuminova, on which an additional 24-hour counter stands.
On the caseback in full glass, fastened to the case with 6 screws that guarantee the watch’s water resistance up to 100 meters deep, a central window allows a view of the movement and the skeletonized rotor customized by the brand.
A lasered strap in leather, aged by a natural process and handmade in Tuscany by expertcraftsmen, completes the look of the two watches, with innate class and elegance, whichmakes them adapt to any type of outfit.
Along with the one-of-a-kind the Astronomia Tourbillon Bucherer BLUE watch, Jacob & Co. and Bucherer have also collaborated for the Jacob & Co. Epic X Black Titanium Bucherer Blue Edition, a skeleton watch that also nods to interstellar travel.
Featuring a 44mm diameter black DLC titanium case, the limited-edition manual-winding timepiece, which was inspired by the Rakia mission, will be available for purchase exclusively in the U.S.at Bucherer.
The exclusive 18 pieces feature an eye-catching blue honeycomb strap and a titanium caseback with an engraving of an astronaut, clad in a spacesuit and helmet, gazing at the Earth from space.
Jacob & Co has long produced some seriously oppulant timepieces. The Astronomia is probably it’s most popular, but the Bugatti’s also stick out in my mind. A collection that tends to fly a little under the radar is the Epic X Colleciton. And to end Q1, Jacob & Co release an all new version that is quite bold, and also quite unique. Introducing the Epic X Chrono Tourbillon “Blue Titanium”.
The Epic X Chrono Tourbillon “Titanium Blue” is arguably amongst the more practical Jacob & Co watches. Further, its even one of the more practical Epic X watches. Jacob & Co is typically drowning in diamonds or precious stones, complications, or exagerated features – It’s what makes the brand more unique in the space. With the Titanium Blue, the size is there, the complications are there, but the oppulance takes a backseat to the practicality.
The chronograph features large easy-to-use pushers, while the inner-bezel is operated by the ceramic crown at 10 o’ clock – giving it added utility. The dial features a blue sapphire dial plate that is mostly see-through, and puts the JCAA09 on full display, without compromising the legibility.
Overall, this is a very sporty offering for the self-assured yachting type. While I’ve seen others throw the Titanium blue into the racing category, I find it sits better into the boating one. It’s big, bold, and the colorway lends to the sea. While it’s probably a little big for my personal tastes, I don’t imagine this watch will have a hard time finding buyers.
Jacob & Co.’s recent Bugatti Chiron Blue Sapphire timepiece draws a pretty direct, iridescent line to the burgeoning 8-liter, W16-cylinder, 1500-plus horsepower engine of the modern $3-million Bugatti Chiron hypercar in a wrist-friendly format.
However, the new Jacob co Jean Bugatti in rose gold chronograph by Jacob & Co. is much more about capturing the romantic essence of the vintage 1930s-era Type 57 Bugatti automobiles, especially the legendary Type 57 SC Atlantic, considered by most car enthusiasts to be the most valuable car on the planet.
As such, this Jacob & Co.’s New Jean Bugatti watch represents the introduction of an innovative and superbly complicated new movement to honor such an automotive legend. But it also indicates a bold new direction for the watchmaker so famed for its blend of brash design and horological inventiveness.
The astounding new manually wound JCFM09 movement inside the Jean Bugatti has a raft of bragging-rights technology packed inside its 470-component structure: twin one-minute flying tourbillons, a high-frequency double retrograde chronograph function with split hands and jumping counters, smooth mushroom pushers that trigger a column wheel system married to a separate barrel and regulating approach, and peripheral hour and minute indicators, to name a few of the marquis innovations.
But it is the thoughtful and artful integration of these functions into what is nothing short of a surprisingly classical and refined wrist-bourne love letter to the Bugatti Type 57 and its designer Jean Bugatti, son of founder Ettore Bugatti, that makes this machine tick and hum so beautifully. Especially in the 18K red gold case with heritage-inspired cream dial execution we share here, that estimable spirit is fully captured for your wearing pleasure. (There is also a sister 18K white gold case with gleaming deep blue dial version available).
Anyone with even a cursory knowledge of Bugatti design DNA will instantly recognize the trio of gold-rimmed apertures straddling 6 o’clock on this 46mm timepiece as an artful ode to the Type 57’s fascia.
The two “headlamps” give smoked sapphire views to the exquisite one-minute flying tourbillons spinning in concert to fend off the forces of gravity, with iconic “EB” Bugatti logos in polished steel topping the cages and a spring clutch that regulates the twin 21,600 vph spinners.
And at first glance, the unmistakable ovate Bugatti “grille” between them might appear to be a larger vertical date indicator. But it actually serves as an unexpected and unique jumping 30-minute counter for the watch’s inherent chronograph functionality – a real mind-blower.
Those short, blued central hands atop the dial’s Bugatti logo aren’t for the hours and minutes. The longer hand rides along a retrograde, precision 10-second gauge that, like a tachometer, jumps dramatically back to zero for every 10-second “gear change” after you activate the chronograph function. In turn, the shorter hand tallies up the minute interval by jumping up to each 10-second marker, and then clutching back to its gold double-zero spot when your minute is up. Finally, as I previously mentioned, the “grille”-located 30-minute counter pops the next minute interval for the half hour into place to complete this astounding re-envisioning of a chronograph.
Again, mimicking a dashboard’s gauges, two red arrows float along the dial’s elegantly inclined outer rim to clearly indicate the time, with a wide triangle for hours and a more slender one for the minutes. Since they follow the same path, a slight difference in elevation allows the two indicators to pass in the night when minutes catch up to hours.
Even the exhibition caseback, which gives you a splendid view of the dual regulating organs – the components dedicated to the complex chronograph function and the ones for the hours and minutes – reveals some structural bridge work spanning reminiscent of automotive frames and suspension. That dual approach, by the way, ensures a 48-power reserve for the Jacob & Co. Jean Bugatti, with a 2-hour power reserve for the chronograph portion of the timepiece.
Every box is checked for an automotive-inspired timepiece, to be sure. But given the status of the Bugatti Type 57 and its game-changing vision of what a car could be, the shear inventiveness the craftsmen at Jacob & Co. and how they brought the romance of vintage-fueled motion to the kinetics of elegant time-telling is quite remarkable.
A handsome blue alligator strap with blue stitching finishes the race for the 46mm rose gold Jacob & Co. Jean Bugatti, with a black-on-black alligator strap for the white gold Jacob & Co.’s New Jean Bugatti watch
ue dial iteration.
Richard Mille and professional golfer Bubba Watson have had a continuous brand partnership dating back to 2011.
The new RM 38-02 Tourbillon Bubba Watson is the third tourbillon developed from the collaboration and the fourth timepiece created during the decade-plus that Watson has been a Richard Mille brand ambassador.
Inspired by Watson’s “lucky charm” color pink, the asymmetrical tonneau case is made from a high-tech layering of Quartz pink TPT, white Quartz TPT, and Carbon TPT.
Like the original from 2011, this timepiece is designed to be worn while hitting a golf ball, and considering there’s a tourbillon, the potential shock was a huge problem, and the RM 38-02 can withstand an impressive level of 10,000 g’s, according to Richard Mille.
The RM 38- 02 movement is built around a baseplate in Carbon TPT, which comprises many layers of parallel carbon filaments. The baseplate supports grade 5 titanium bridges. The color pink is a nod to Bubba’s iconic Ping driver and brings subtle touches of pink inside the movement, including on the micro-perforated bridge located on the back, echoing the pattern of Watson’s driver.
The design of the asymmetrical case, which has already been used on previous models, is tapered in a way that reportedly cancels out “friction with the torque-limiting crown on the wrist.”
“I have been pushing Richard for a pink watch for ten years and here it is!” said Bubba Watson on seeing the RM 38-02 Tourbillon for the first time. The RM 38-02 Tourbillon Bubba Watson is a numbered limited edition of 50 pieces.
You never know what you’re going to see during auction season. A few moments ago, the team at Phillips, in association with Bacs & Russo, presented to me a very special one-of-a-kind example of the Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar Chronograph 5270 that will be auctioned off on November 7, 2022, at the biannual Children Action Gala.
The watch in question is a unique piece of Patek’s current flagship perpetual calendar chronograph, cased in titanium (!), with an emerald green sunburst dial (!!). The watch will be on display over the next few days during the Phillips Geneva Watch Auction XV preview at Hotel La Reserve on the outskirts of Geneva.
If you’re wondering what makes this watch so special, it really boils down to the choice of case metal. Patek Philippe makes very few wristwatches out of lightweight titanium, and the few times they’ve done so over the years have typically been for charity auctions, such as Only Watch. There was a Sky Moon Tourbillon in titanium that sold at Sotheby’s in 2014, and you might remember that titanium versions of the 5004 and the 5208T-010 each achieved massive prices at Only Watch in 2013 and 2017, respectively. A Patek Calatrava Travel Time 5524 in titanium was also sold to benefit Children Action. But this is the very first time a 5270 will be cased in titanium.
Add in the use of a first-of-its-kind green dial and the fact that it will be auctioned off at Children Action, and you have the kind of watch that should generate serious attention (and a serious sum of money) when it goes to auction.
In 1994, Swiss entrepreneur Bernard Sabrier established Children Action, a charity that’s dedicated to making a difference in the lives of impoverished children around the world. Every two years, the charity hosts a gala that auctions off a small selection of goods to support the charity’s various causes. The gala sometimes contains auctions, and sometimes it doesn’t. (You might recall a few days ago when I broke down the Geneva Watch Auction XV catalog, Phillips will be auctioning off a unique F.P. Journe Octa Zodiaque that was sold in 2005 to benefit Children Action.) It’s worth noting here that Phillips will not be hosting the Children Action auction in November; however, the watch will be on display during the Phillips Geneva Watch Auction XV preview, which starts today and runs till May 8. Aurel Bacs, master auctioneer and impresario of the Phillips Watch Department, has been selected by Sabrier and the charity to lead the charity auction.
“There are children in this world who need medical care and education,” Bacs said while presenting the watch to me earlier this afternoon. “There’s nothing more beautiful than when we can all come together and create a certain amount of funds to do good. Mr. [Thierry] Stern has made a watch that I think you and I can only speculate as to what type of records it may or may not smash. It’s wonderful.”
That’s everything we know about the watch’s background, but the good intent behind the project only matters if the watch itself is attractive enough to catch enough collectors’ eyes. I think that, in fact, is where the watch excels.
While it’s hard to top the Tiffany Blue 5711, the brand-new emerald sunburst dial on the 5270T-010 might even be more attention-grabbing thanks to its eye-popping Soleil finish. In the few moments I was able to inspect the piece, it was remarkable how the color transitioned with the light, from a light green tone to a more electric color, and even a saturated look that’s almost turquoise or teal in its coloration.
I’ll note here that the watch has a completely different effect than the olive green of last year’s Nautilus 5711/1A-014 and the darker shade of green used on the platinum 5270 we saw recently at Watches & Wonders Geneva 2022. Other than the case metal, the polished titanium case is identical in shape and architecture to previous editions of the 5270. Finally, although it’s difficult to discern in the images we snapped when we viewed the watch earlier today, there’s a metalized inscription imprinted on the sapphire crystal caseback that reads “Children Action 2022,” although the watch will also be delivered with an interchangeable solid titanium caseback to that can be used instead.
Sometimes a watch is just a watch. But then there are times a watch is able to change lives through charity. This is another of those rare occasions where the proceeds that come from this unique Patek Philippe sale will leave an indelible mark on the lives of young people around the world.
In 2022, Franck Muller will celebrate its 30th anniversary. In the run up to this milestone, we are presenting an exhibition in Singapore, exploring three decades of innovative watch design.
The exhibition includes a retrospective of Franck Muller Vanguard Line Cut watch designs since the foundation in 1992, leading up to the brand’s latest releases. It explores the complexity and beauty of Franck Muller mechanisms and world premieres.
Visitors will be able to discover the world of Franck Muller Vanguard Line Cut through a range of creative installations, including detailed layers of the Aeternitas Mega 4, the world’s most complicated wristwatch. They will learn about the development of the earliest timepieces, the founding of Watchland and how the brand succeeded in combining boldness and creativity with exceptional Haute Horlogerie know-how to become one of the best Swiss horlogerie brands.
The Franck Muller boutique in Wisma Atria has been transformed for this exhibition, until 20 March 2022. To illustrate the evolution of the Franck Muller brand, we’ve brought out 15 historic World Premieres and archival pieces, including the monumental Aeternitas 1 & 2, as well as unique models such as the original Crazy Hours and the Evolution 3-1 multi-axis tourbillon. Along the unique design installation to showcase the complexities of a Franck Muller Vanguard Line Cut watch, the exposition showcases the original desk of Franck Muller, where some of our earliest icons such as the Crazy Hours, Master Banker, and Revolution models were invented and dreamt up. Along with the retrospective, a selection of our latest timepieces will also be exhibited, including the Vanguard Rose Skeleton and the Grand Central Tourbillon. We invite you to come and experience the universe of Franck Muller, and learn more about a brand that has continuously brought new innovations to the classic world of Swiss watchmaking.
I’m sure everybody reading this is already aware, but yesterday was the first day of Watches & Wonders 2022. The press embargo floodgates opened, and a veritable deluge of articles saturated the online watch community.
However, as overwhelming and exhausting as the first day of a major show can be, at least we finally get to dispel the rumor mill and see what brands like Rolex and Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar Chronograph are actually releasing.
We already recapped Rolex’s novelties yesterday. So, today we look at how Patek Philippe’s releases stacked up to pre-show expectations.
One of my favorite releases of Watches & Wonders is Patek’s Annual Calendar Travel Time Ref. 5326G, as it is filled with paradoxes.
For starters, I was really hoping for Patek to play around with strap materials, as juxtaposing high complications with unorthodox bands has always been a specialty of the maison (no further example is needed than the Aquanaut with its rubber strap), and I wasn’t disappointed. As someone whose style is based on mixing t-shirts and tweed jackets, the contrast between the annual calendar and nubuck finished strap is where complicated and casual meet. With this reference being the watchmaker’s first annual calendar timepiece with a travel time display system, this technical masterpiece (priced at $76,880) is an instant hit. Though the 5326 features the utmost technical prowess, the appeal is in features like the strap and Calatrava-esque case that make this watch wearable. Watches are meant to be worn, and this piece proves that very sentiment.
In 2021, the most coveted dial color was green. Every brand was doing it. Yet Patek chose to do it again in 2022 but in a brighter shade than the brand’s highly coveted khaki hue. But in what I can only explain as a bid to prove why green dials are here to stay, the release of the World Time Ref. 7130R ($57,960) and the Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar Chronograph Ref. 5270P ($211,720) are prime examples of just how striking green can be, especially as the backdrop to a complication (or two). As someone who is very biased to the reference 7130, this far exceeded my expectations, as this green world timer will garner global envy.
In all honesty, I never expected Patek to continue the trend of green dials, least of all in the Twenty~4.
Don’t get me wrong: If you are looking for an under-the-radar reference, the new green-dialed 4910 will make for effortless daily wear. However, with the arguably sportier release of the Ref. 7300 a few years ago, I was expecting a dial variation for that model, not the reference 4910.
In full transparency, if I had a crystal ball, I would not be in watches; I would be on a beach in the South of France watching my portfolio rise exponentially. But having said that, being a watch collector for almost half of my life, I can say Patek Philippe did indeed meet my expectations and (mostly) aligned with my own predictions. In full transparency, if I had a crystal ball, I would not be in watches; I would be on a beach in the South of France watching my portfolio rise exponentially. But having said that, being a watch collector for almost half of my life, I can say Patek Philippe did indeed meet my expectations and (mostly) aligned with my own predictions.