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U-Boat Watch Brand Review – Are They Good Quality Watches?

Italian watch brand U-Boat draws great inspiration from the city it is based in – Tuscany.

Perfectly combining Italian craftsmanship and styling with precise Swiss movements ensure U-Boat’s success. Amongst the most recognizable watch brands, U-Boat credits this character to its large crown design. In the twenty years of the brand’s existence, U-Boat has grown exponentially to an internationally sought after watch brand. To better understand’s the brand’s legacy and birth, we must start in the year 1942. The Italian Navy commissioned wristwatches for its pilots with precise technical specifications. A pilot’s watch is an important and integral instrument in the cockpit. As a result, the task itself was quite a challenge. More importantly, watchmaker Ilvo Fontana drew up designs that guaranteed optimum visibility and waterproofness. The unique design was unlike anything before. However, Ilvo’s designs never made it to production, and the designs remained shelved.
Meanwhile, decades passed and the new millennium arrived. In the year 2000, Ilvo’s grandson chanced upon the designs and blueprints of his grandfather. Subsequently, grandson Italo Fontana founded the U-Boat brand with his grandfather’s designs proving to be a great source of inspiration. Above all, Italo envisioned the brand with the motto – ‘A new dimension in time’. This marked the beginning of the brand as we know it today. Meanwhile, Italo Fontana elevated these designs with his own personal signature. His contemporary vision, design aesthetics, and personality combined with the vintage designs presented the brand with a distinct USP.
Italo Fontana’s creative drive and perseverance to innovate stand out through the brand’s timepieces and success story. “I’ve always been fascinated by design, I create in total freedom, I don’t follow any trend. I try to do what other brands don’t do. I don’t have an obligation to always create the same things.” His quote, even to date, stands as a testament to his creativity. Consequently, U-Boat in its twentieth year of existence continues to grow. Based out of Tuscany, the brand currently boasts of presence in sixty key markets.
Currently, the brand offers nine very distinct collections to choose from. In addition, the brand garners acclaim for the extensive configuration options available under each collection. Under Italo Fontana’s leadership, U-Boat embraces modern and unusual techniques. In a similar vein, the brand also explores a host of materials to manufacture its watches. Above all, U-Boat watches feature the crown at a unique 9 o’clock position. We will look at such examples as we detail the collections.
There aren’t many successful watch brands that design such inspired models. U-Boat has garnered global attention and followers due to its design and use of materials. Amongst them are leading celebrities from many cultures. Legendary actors Nicholas Cage and Arnold Schwarzenegger have worn U-Boat watches in their films. Furthermore, artists like Emin, Till Lindemann, Renato Zero, Cesare Cremonini, Claudio Baglioni swear by these watches. This validates the brand’s growing stature and Italo Fontana’s vision of memorable timepieces.
Much like any other watch brand, U-Boat attracts mixed reviews. While watch enthusiasts love the brand for its designing and looks, they also believe that the prices are way off for using basic quartz movement.

If you love chunky watches that are big on your wrists, then you may fall in love with U-Boat. However, this is a major disadvantage for smaller wrists as these watches may not fit properly. That said, watch lovers also point that these watches do not retain their value post-purchase. Unlike Rolex, U-Boat will be subjected to heavy depreciation just for the fact that their movement and face of the watch are plain and basic. Yet another word of caution from the watch aficionados, some U-Boat watches may come with a marking on the movement when you look closely at it. While the exact reason for such a marking is unknown, this internal scratch could potentially give rise to problems.

However, as we say across all our reviews, don’t let just the style or design of a brand be the deciding factor. Consider options like pricing, watchmaking history, usage, purpose, along with its competitors to make your final call.

The Oris Divers Sixty-Five Date In ‘Waldenburg Valley’ Green

This was a big year for Oris’ Aquis line, which has been revamped while maintaining a solid modern dive watch in the brand’s collection. The Oris Divers Sixty-Five, the brand’s heritage model, continues to be a mainstay, however, and now a new green dial and bezel join the crew in the more affordable Oris Caliber 733 movement offering.
This new Oris Divers Sixty-Five Date is the 40mm version, measuring 12.8mm thick with a 48mm lug-to-lug, plus a screw-down crown and screw-down back on the stainless steel case, giving 100m of water resistance. There’s also that green unidirectional dive bezel, complementing the green hue of the dial inspired by the Waldenburg Valley forests surrounding Oris’ headquarters in Hölstein. This isn’t the first green dial in the Divers Sixty-Five lineup, but it’s a bit more vibrant than the Hodinkee Limited Edition. With the caliber 733 movement, it’s also slightly more affordable and has a date (something you either love or… well, don’t). The price is $2,700.
My quick take is that this is a nice-looking watch, and more options aren’t a bad thing. Oris has done a good job of giving both a slightly higher-end offering with their Caliber 400 line without abandoning more affordable watches with the same design language. Oris has always had an eye on the enthusiast community, both in terms of making watches people are asking for and can afford. Unsurprisingly, I still have a soft spot for the Hodinkee Limited Edition, but this brighter option is also a good one.
This release follows the well-received addition of a 38mm Oris Divers Sixty-Five with a Caliber 400 movement to the brand’s main lineup while also employing a different but still very successful application of a great shade of green.

Oris Divers Sixty-Five 38 Calibre 400

The Oris Divers Sixty-Five resurfaced in 2015, fifty years after its inaugural splash. Leaning on the design cues of its ancestor, the revisited Divers Sixty-Five oozed vintage pedigree. Although the looks of the first models were faithful to their ancestor, the watch was built with contemporary materials and powered by an outsourced movement (Sellita). The Divers Sixty-Five collection soared in popularity and appeared with different case sizes and materials and a more contemporary face. However, the breakthrough came in 2022 when Oris fitted the Divers Sixty-Five with its in-house calibre 400. Oris has been listening closely to its customers, and its latest move is bound to please fans with its 38mm case, its calibre 400 movement and – wait for it – the elimination of the date window.
The first model in the Oris Divers Sixty-Five family to benefit from the brand’s calibre 400 was a 40mm model with a date window at 6 o’clock and a 12-hour scale on the bezel. A few weeks ago, we covered another 40mm Divers Sixty-Five Hölstein Edition, also powered by the calibre 400 with a regular 60-minute bezel and date.
The latest model is the first Oris Divers Sixty-Five 38mm to receive the brand’s calibre 400. With its steel case and matching steel bezel, the watch has an attractive monochromatic look. The 60-minute scale on the sandblasted matte bezel is in relief, with polished numerals and markers, and the inverted triangle at noon has a luminous pip. The case is finished with brushed surfaces and polished bevels extending to the 3-link steel bracelet and its folding clasp with push buttons.
Although there have been some objections regarding this diver’s relatively modest 100m water-resistance (like the original), Oris has plenty of other more contemporary dive watches, like the Aquis Date with its 300m water-resistance rating or the Aquis Pro with its impressive 4,000-metre rating. Despite its name, the Divers Sixty-Five is not positioned as a professional dive watch, and its water-resistance rating is more than enough for a robust sports watch that can be used for snorkelling.
Oris has chosen an attractive shade of green for the gradient dial, offsetting the applied circular and rectangular indices treated with Super-LumiNova. The three central hands are also luminescent, ensuring visibility in low-light conditions. And what is undoubtedly the best news of all is the absence of a date window.
The dial is protected by a double-domed Oris Divers Sixty-Five 38 Calibre 400 sapphire crystal with an anti-reflective coating, and a sapphire exhibition caseback displays the brand’s manufacture calibre 400. Launched in 2020, calibre 400 is a high-performance automatic movement with twin barrels for a five-day power reserve and an anti-magnetic silicon escapement with a 10-year warranty.

Breitling Acquires Historic Brand Universal Genève

Despite being barely existent anymore or now a memory from the past, some brands continue to live within the collecting community, benefitting from a certain aura. One of these brands is Universal Genève, a once-prominent manufacturer known for its innovative designs (the Polerouter or the Tri-Compax, to name a few) and technically advanced movements (the famed micro-rotor). With the quartz crisis, Universal Genève became the shadow of itself, still producing watches as the subsidiary of a Hong Kong-based investment firm. These days are over, as UG comes back into Swiss hands after Breitling watch and its main shareholder Partners Group have announced its acquisition of Universal Genève, a move that “promises to restore the prestige of a hallowed name in the world of luxury timepieces,” according to the brand.

Founded in 1894, Universal Genève grew to become one of the top Swiss watchmakers, providing Breitling watch enthusiasts with models such as the Tri-Compax, the Aero-Compax, dozens of versions of the Polerouter (as explained in this book), racing chronographs such as the “Nina Rindt” Compax or the original Space Compax. However, like so many other brands, the advent of the quartz technology and the crisis that would follow significantly challenged the company. No dead, but certainly not as active as it used to be.
Despite this shift in its trajectory, Universal Genève or UG kept having a strong image within the collecting community, some of its models being high on the list of collectables. Since 1989, the brand has been owned by the Hong Kong-based Stelux Group – also the owner of Cyma (another Swiss watchmaker) and a prominent distributor of Seiko and Grand Seiko in Asia – which kept the name and legacy alive. Nevertheless, the destiny of the brand drastically changed, not being the same for the last 30 years.
Today, Breitling watch via its CEO Georges Kern and Partners Group (the main shareholder of Breitling), has announced the acquisition of Universal Genève from Stelux, for an undisclosed amount (rumours talk about $70 million), probably seeing huge potential in the name and highly possible synergies between brands sharing an important past presence in the field of chronograph watches – UG could be relatively easily re-started by using base movements from Breitling, such as the B01. “Rebuilding a brand with such a rich narrative is not a quick endeavour (…) It is a meticulous labour of love that we anticipate will unfold over the coming years. A dedicated team will be brought on board to allow Breitling and Universal Genève to operate as separate maisons,” explains Kern. What will be the future of Universal Genève…? Time will tell, as for now no words have been given on Breilting’s and Kern’s plans. There’s certainly massive room for improvement in the revamp of the collection, and dozens of historical models and names that are worthy of being revived. And while the grounds for success are there and the brand still benefits from a highly positive imago, we’ll have to wait a couple of years or more to see what will be the new face of UG.

The Race-Ready 2024 Chopard Mille Miglia Classic Chronograph and GTS Chrono

The legendary Italian Mille Miglia vintage car race, from Brescia to Rome and back, is just around the corner, drawing crowds of car lovers and drivers from around the world. As the sponsor and official timekeeper of this race since 1988, Chopard enjoys one of the longest-standing alliances in classic motorsports. The brand’s co-president, Karl-Friedrich Scheufele, has participated in every Mille Miglia edition since 1989. Perpetuating the brand’s tradition of Chopard Mille Miglia watches, and just four days ahead of the race, Chopard releases two Mille Miglia-themed watches, a retro-inspired Classic Chronograph with a panda dial and a limited edition GTS Chrono.
Nicknamed ‘La Gara’ (Italian for race or competition), the panda dial of the Classic Chronograph is replete with cues from the racing world. The black-and-white dial evokes the chequered flag saluting the first car crossing the finish line, and the three black counters, the shape of the hands and Arabic numerals nod to vintage car dashboards.
As a race-inspired chronograph, it has a black tachymeter scale to measure the average speed of a vehicle over a known distance. The silvery central area of the dial has a circular brushed finish, and the contrasting black sub-dials (running seconds at 3, 12-hour totaliser at 6 and 30-min counter at 9 o’clock) have snailed interiors and white tracks. The large vintage-style Arabic numerals and the baton hour and minute hands are treated with Super-LumiNova, and there is a date window angled in at 4:30. Red accents are used to highlight the 1000 Miglia arrow on the dial and the tip of the central chronograph seconds hand.
Last year, Chopard introduced a more compact version of its Classic Chronograph made from the brand’s super-hard and luminous alloy, Lucent Steel. Measuring 40.5mm across and 12.8 mm thick, the case features polished and satin-brushed finishes. The pushers, designed to look like engine pistons, are knurled like the texture of a brake pedal. The notched crown resembles a petrol tank cap and is topped with a steering wheel motif. Highlighting its retro spirit, a glass-box sapphire crystal over the dial lets more light enter the case and increases the depth of the dial opening.
Powered by a COSC-certified ETA A32.211, an upgraded modular version of the ETA 2894-2, the power reserve has increased from 42 to 54 hours, and the activation of the chronograph is smoother. The Mille Miglia Classic Chronograph is paired with a perforated rally-style black calfskin strap and a Lucent Steel pin buckle.
Chopard will gift each car crew participating in the 2024 Chopard Mille Miglia a GTS Chrono in powerful black and grey livery with red accents. It is also releasing a 100-piece limited edition, available exclusively in Italy.
The bead-blasted titanium case gives the watch an edgy, contemporary look. The dark grey titanium visually attenuates the dimensions of the large 44mm wide and 14.6mm thick case, increases its resistance to shocks and corrosion and radically reduces its weight. Highlighting its racing credentials, the tachymeter scale is featured externally on the black aluminium insert in the bezel. The black DLC crown is topped with a steering wheel, and the pushers have brake pedal motifs.
The galvanically treated frosted grey dial features black snailed sub-dials at 6, 9 and 12 o’clock and highlights the chronograph displays with red hands, matching the 1000 Miglia arrow pointing to the date window. Unlike previous editions of the Chopard GTS Chrono, the date window is now separated from the 1000 Miglia logo and enhanced with a built-in magnifier. The charcoal hour makers and baton hour and minute hands have black Super-LumiNova inserts.
Hidden under the solid caseback, decorated with the 1000 Miglia arrow logo, is an automatic chronograph movement based on the Valjoux 7750 calibre. Beating at 28,800vph, it delivers a 48-hour power reserve and is COSC-chronometer certified. The contemporary black strap is made from upcycled plastic recovered from the Mediterranean.

Bremont Terra Nova 42.5 Chronograph

I’m trying hard to figure out Bremont’s latest move. On the surface, I understand that after taking on hedge fund money and bringing on ex-Tudor executive Davide Cerrato as CEO, there was probably double pressure to do something new. That pressure would’ve come from Cerrato wanting to make his mark and the investors wanting to make some money. I get that, but Bremont’s introduction the new Bremont Terra Nova collection and a completely redesigned Bremont Supermarine line, along with a new logo and brand font, seem like the blunt force method of achieving those goals. I don’t think I’m alone in struggling to connect the dots between the old Bremont and this new Bremont, and trace how those who make decisions got to a place that they thought such an approach was a good idea.
Bremont touts this sudden shift as an “evolution from the world of aviation to a new brand architecture embodying Land, Sea and Air.” Never minding the needlessly capitalized features of the Earth or the lack of an Oxford comma, using the phrase “evolution” is a stretch. Evolution implies a gradual change that builds upon past elements. But the Bremont Terra Nova and Supermarine dispose of all of what made Bremont Bremont. These are sudden transformations at best, but even that seems generous (even the beast in Beauty & the Beast still echoed his primal form when he transformed into a man). More accurate, I think is to say that the Supermarine has been replaced and the Terra Nova has been introduced. There is no evolution here. Just a hard turn in a new direction, a turn so hard everything flew out the windows.
Except, I should clarify, not everything was lost in the careening maneuver: the brand still offers almost all of its old models. They just don’t appear on the home page, instead having been crowded into a tab called “Bremont Icons”. I’d be willing to wager they’ll completely disappear soon enough, though. What’s more, the so-called evolution completely ignores the Altitude line (as it’s now called), leaving aviation-inspired models like the Fury and the MB Viper untouched, holding onto the rear fender for dear life as they know that, inevitably, evolution will come for them, too. Why go to the trouble of a major rebrand, completely replacing your best-selling collection and introducing an entire new line, and only go two-thirds of the way? Even the logos on the Altitude line haven’t been changed!
Bremont did not hold back with its new Terra Nova collection. Lots of brands will slow roll the introduction with one or two models, but Bremont I think did this properly and gave us four new models, fully rounding out the collection right from the start. The Terra Nova includes the flagship 40.5 Turning Bezel Power Reserve, the 40.5 Date, the Chronograph, and the 38. There’s something here for everyone if you like the look, and while I think the dials are exceptional at a glance, the case and bracelet leave me wanting a lot more, to say nothing of the entire collections total disconnect from any semblance of Bremont DNA whatsoever.
The unifying element of the Bremont Terra Nova is its angular tonneau case. The general criticism of this case so far has been that it’s not befitting a brand of this purported standing, nor of a watch costing a minimum of $2,850. To be sure, this kind of case is almost exclusively seen in affordable microbrands. There’s always an opportunity for such perceptions to be changed, but I’m not sure if Bremont is going to be the one to do that. The cases, which range from 38 to 42.5 (as indicated in the model names) are fully brushed, save for the 38 and 40.5 Date, which feature polished fixed bezels. The Turning Bezel Power Reserve (a name that is surely the result of countless hours of focus group testing) features a solid steel compass bezel, while the Chronograph features the same style but in steel with a ceramic insert. (There is a rather easy method of using a compass bezel for orienteering, which I can’t remember, but you can look up if you’re so inclined.) The Bremont Terra Nova watches all have 100m water resistance, sapphire crystals, and crowns that seem quite substantial, reinforcing the field operation vibe of the watch. While the Terra Nova 38 only comes on bracelet or leather, the other three models add a NATO option. The bracelet is a new design for the brand and in general, with curving links that echo the curves of the case. It has quick-release tabs for easy changes and a butterfly clasp, but my gripe with it is how the curved links start before the end of the lugs. It’s a weird design and I’m not sure what the calculus was there.
What the Bremont Terra Nova models all have in common with their dials is the use of big, bold molded Super-Lumi-Nova for their Arabic indices. These solid blocks of lume shine more brightly and evenly than typical printed lume. Every model is available in brown, except the Chronograph, which is only offered in black. Additional colors include white for the Terra Nova 38, green for the Terra Nova 40.5 Date, and blue for the Terra Nova 40.5 Turning Bezel Power Reserve. The TBPR (that works) has a running second at 9 and a power reserve at 6, while the Chronograph has sunken subdials for a running seconds and a 30-minute totalizer.
I genuinely like the look of these dials and I think they make sense with the whole Terra Nova “Land” mission that Bremont is working at. That said, the dial text could use some editing. First, you’ve got the new logo and brand font — fine, whatever. But then at 6 o’clock, you’ve got the collection name, “Automatic,” and “London” all in the same size. Why are we elevating the movement type to the level of the collection? And why is London, a town over an hour’s drive from Bremont’s manufacturing facility The Wing, on there at all? My two cents: lower this block of text down, reduce the font on “Automatic” and “London,” and change “London” to “England.” As it is, I can’t say the dial text would prevent me from purchasing one of these watches, but it’s another element that looks very much like a watch priced well under $1,000.
Finally, we arrive at the movements. The various Bremont Terra Nova all use rebranded automatic movements running at 28,800 vph. It’s possible that the TBPR uses some modification of the “in-house” ENG300, but the price doesn’t reflect that, and it may also be a Sellita of some sort like the others. The power reserve is quoted at 38 hours for the Terra Nova 38 and 40.5 Date models, 41 hours for the TBPR, and 56 hours for the Chronograph. The movements are all concealed behind solid casebacks with a globe decoration.

BREMONT Supermarine 300M Date

Back in 2010, Bremont introduced the Supermarine 500, which introduced a fresh take on a pretty well-trod path: the dive watch. Its unique crown guard, sapphire bezel, signature Bremont three-piece “Trip-Tick” case, and overall styling set it apart from the pack. It quickly became a favorite of dive watch lovers. Then, in 2014, came the Supermarine 2000, which quadrupled the water resistance, introduced the anti-magnetic and anti-shock properties of Bremont’s MB watches, and beefed up the case from 43mm to 45mm. The S2000 is an exercise in sheer overkill in every respect, a watch that will survive things no human wearing it ever could, something many who buy the watch appreciate.

But for many, 45mm, or even 43mm, is too large for a watch, even a diver. So at last week’s “Basel-upon-Thames” event in London, Bremont released new additions to the bremont supermarine 300m date lineup – the Type 300 and Type 301 – both with an all-new 40-millimeter case.
Bremont has always leaned hard on the aviation angle, owing to the company’s founders’ passion for flying. So even the brand’s dive watches take their name from the British company that built many legendary airplanes — Supermarine. The name Type 300 references the name given to the prototype Spitfire fighter that Supermarine built in the 1930s in advance of World War II. The new watches share the same case, which is 40mm of hardened stainless steel with the familiar three-part construction for which Bremont is known. They’re slimmed down considerably too, at 13mm from the top of the domed sapphire crystal to the rear of the solid screw-down caseback. The smaller size should improve wearability, as the S500 and S2000 are both heavy, tall leviathans. Of course, with the smaller size comes less water resistance. But 300 meters is more than adequate for scuba diving. bremont supermarine 300m also wisely edited out the helium release valve from the case, a nod to its more recreational purpose.
Instead of sapphire bezels, the new watches now sport unidirectional ratcheting ceramic timing rings, in either black or blue respectively, matching the two dial versions available. (The blue bezel on the prototype we were shown is not the final iteration and will be more closely matched to the dial on the final production models, we were told.)
The dials themselves are markedly new as well. The “corduroy” texture from the bigger Supermarines is gone, and on the Type 300, Arabic numeral are used at six, nine, and 12, with rectangular hashes replacing the large round markers of the S500 and S2000. The black dial version has faux “gilt” accents for the Bremont logo and minute track while the blue dial version sticks with white markings. The latter’s blue is reminiscent of the shimmering sunburst blue used on the blue version of Bremont’s U2 pilot’s watch, and it catches light beautifully.
The Type 301 has a more vintage-inspired style, with painted (not applied) dots and hashes and an upside-down arrowhead at 12 that, all tinted with luminescent paint meant to mimic old tritium. Sure, it might remind one of a classic Submariner in more ways than one, but Bremont is hardly the first to follow this legible convention. The dial and bezel of the Type 301 are more matte in finish than those on the Type 300, and they almost look a faded grey from certain angles.

All dials have red accents in the bremont supermarine 300m name, the sweep hand tip, and the “60” on the minute track of the Type 300. The day display of the other Supermarines is gone in favor of a white-on-black date wheel on all watches. Hands are slightly different from those on earlier Supermarines — here they’re modified swords without the round tip on the hour hand.
The Type 300 and 301 make use of a chronometer-certified, Bremont-modified self-winding ETA 2892 movement that here is called the BE-92AE. Though not in-house, in a tool diver with a solid caseback I would argue this is not terribly important, and bremont supermarine 300m does re-test its movements after they return from COSC certification and are cased up.

The watches are all available on a 20mm stainless steel bracelet, a calf leather strap, or a striped nylon NATO-style strap, with the blue Type 300 also having a blue rubber option. The nylon strap is thicker than most of the $15 aftermarket ones available and has a bit of a smooth shine to it, not unlike that found on the NATOs available from Omega.
Nick English explained that his and his brother Giles’s preference runs more to leather straps on watches, but obviously on a diver they felt that offering a steel bracelet was wise. The bracelet is of high quality and looks sharp, but the clasp is a simple two-button release with no dive extension or security latch. My opinion is that the leather is the way to wear these watches unless you’re getting them wet (in which case you can substitute nylon or rubber).

My personal impression is that these watches look better on the wrist and in person than in photos. The size is predictably good and though the more conventional designs aren’t as distinctively Bremont as the Supermarine 500 and 2000, the Trip-Tick case profile separates the Type 300 and 301 from the rest of the diver herd.
Pricing for the Type 300 and Type 301 is $4,095 on either strap and $4,695 on the bracelet. This pricing draws obvious comparisons to other high quality divers out there, such as Tudor’s Black Bay family. And while value judgments with luxury watches are largely subjective and a futile exercise, these watches do stack up well with others in the vicinity. I’ve dived many times with a Bremont Supermarine 2000 and can vouch for its robustness in its intended environment and I suspect the new Type 300 and 301 will perform similarly. And at 40mm, the new ones should be more friendly for terrestrial pursuits too.

BELL & ROSS BR-X5 Black Titanium

When Bell & Ross launched the BR-X5 in 2022, the watch marked one of the pinnacle works by the brand. Featuring an avante-garde interpretation of the brand’s familiar circle-in-square aesthetic, alongside an integrated case-and-bracelet and a compelling dial, the watch served as a distinct elevation of the brand’s familiar and fan-loved motifs. Last week at Watches and Wonders 2024, the brand once again revisits the design, introducing its latest in the new Bell & Ross BR-X5 Black Titanium.
The watch itself is familiar in general composition, though subtler in tone and style as compared to previous iterations of the watch— which have thus far included light blue, full lume, and orange-touched editions. It measures 41 by 12.8mm on the wrist, featuring a grade 2 titanium construction with a microblasted finishing that provides it with a darkened, matte look. Machined sides and the integrated style connecting the watch to a matching titanium or rubber strap attach the watch in the collection, while the classic square look of the case proper holds it true to Bell & Ross.
The dial of the model is— like the case— a familiar execution of the BR-X5, distinguishing itself via a semi-monochromatic black with white Super-Luminova details. Applied ovular hour marks serve for most of the indices, with a matching handset indicating the running time. An aviation-inspired date window provides some daily utility towards the 3 o’clock position, while a large power reserve scale sits at its opposite at the 9 o’clock. Inside, the Bell & Ross BR-CAL.323 provides the power, with the automatic movement capable of a 70-hour reserve.