Category: Perfect Wrist
When it comes to creating the most technologically involved execution of a fairly simple concept, arguably no brand goes harder than Richard Mille. Regardless of how you may feel about the brand’s ultra-modern aesthetic and sky-high price point, there is a lot of interesting technology behind the timepieces that it produces, and Richard Mille simply does not make boring watches. As its latest new release of 2023, Richard Mille has announced the next chapter in the evolution of the RM 030 that originally made an appearance back in 2011, and the new Richard Mille RM 30-01 Automatic with Declutchable Rotor represents a revamped and more advanced rendition of one of the brand’s signature models.
The new Richard Mille RM 30-01 Automatic with Declutchable Rotor is essentially just a self-winding watch with a date display and power reserve indicator, although this description doesn’t even tell half the story. The two numerals for the date are each displayed by a separate DLC-treated titanium disc, while the self-winding movement features an integrated clutch mechanism that automatically disconnects the rotor from the barrel once the mainspring is fully wound. Additionally, rather than simply having a crown with multiple different positions like watches from virtually all other brands, the RM 03-01 has a function selector switch operated by a pusher that is located on the side of the case at 2 o’clock, which allows users to switch between winding (W), hand-setting (H), and date-adjustment (D) positions for the crown.
Richard Mille’s declutchable rotor concept originally debuted way back in 2011 on the RM 030, although the new Richard Mille RM 03-01 turns things up a notch with the addition of a function selector switch, along with a number of other refinements and updates to both its overall construction and internal movement technologies. On top of that, the new RM 03-01 also offers a completely overhauled display, which features a noticeably more open-worked aesthetic that is based upon angular lines, instead of the curved forms that characterized the dial of the original Richard Mille RM 030. Rather than featuring a full set of Arabic numeral markers with a date display at 7 o’clock and the rest of its indicators placed around the center of the dial, the new Richard Mille RM 03-01 has a diamond-shaped power reserve indicator sitting to the left of the hands in the center, while its date window has been relocated to 4 o’clock. Sitting just above the date display is an indicator for the function selector switch, while an on/off display for the status of the declutchable rotor appears in the far upper left corner at the 11 o’clock position. As for the actual dial of the RM 03-01, it features a two-layer construction, with the first made from transparent sapphire, while the other is crafted from titanium and has a diamond-shaped design that mirrors the appearance of the plates and bridges of the movement.
The new Richard Mille RM 30-01 Automatic with Declutchable Rotor is offered in two different configurations, with one featuring a case that is crafted entirely from grade 5 titanium, while the other has a middle case made from titanium that is paired with upper and lower sections in 5N red gold. Despite their different materials, both versions of the new Richard Mille RM 03-01 feature tonneau-shaped cases that measure 42mm in diameter by 17.59mm thick, with an overall lug-to-lug profile of 49.94mm. Additionally, sapphire crystals with anti-reflective treatment are fitted to both the dial sides of the watches and their display casebacks, while water resistance for the RM03-01 comes in at a fairly standard 50 meters. Rather than using an intermediary casing ring to hold the movement inside of the watch like a number of previous Richard Mille models, the internal caliber is developed to be integrated into the design of the new RM 03-01, and it sits on rubber chassis mounting components that are attached by four spline screws in grade 5 titanium. Additionally, just like virtually all of the other tonneau-shaped models in Richard Mille’s lineup, the various case components of the RM 03-01 are held together with a set of titanium spline screws that are paired with abrasion-resistant washers made from 316L stainless steel. Powering the new Richard Mille RM 30-01 Automatic with Declutchable Rotor is the brand’s Caliber RMAR2 skeletonized self-winding movement, which runs at a frequency of 28,800vph (4 Hz) while offering users a power reserve of approximately 55 hours. Although the biggest mechanical difference between the new RM 30-01 and the original RM 030 from 2011 is the addition of the function selector switch, both models are characterized by their signature declutchable self-winding mechanisms and variable geometry rotors.
In order to ensure that their movements do not over-wind themselves, nearly all automatic watches feature a sliding flange within their barrels that allows the mainspring spring to slip when the watch is fully wound. As a way to prevent the additional wear that can occur while the mainspring slips within its barrel, the Richard Mille Cal. RMAR2 features a clutch that automatically disconnects the rotor from the winding mechanism once the watch is fully wound. The clutch will then autonomously re-engage the rotor once the power reserve drops below 40 hours so that the movement can maintain an optimum level of tension in the mainspring. As for the variable geometry rotor, the multi-component structure features a five-position adjustable weight system (the pair of wing-shaped things that sit within it), which allows its winding ability to be fine-tuned and optimized for its individual owner’s lifestyle and wearing habits.
RadoCaptain Cook x Cameron Norrie Limited Edition
Rado has tapped Cameron Norrie for the Swiss watchmaker’s limited edition Rado Captain Cook x Cameron Norrie timepiece, which launched at the Hurlingham Club during the Giorgio Amani Tennis Classic week ahead of Wimbledon. Norrie, who broke into the ATP top ten rankings in 2022, is currently the number one men’s singles player in the UK for tennis, and says he is honored to release his first watch with Rado and that it’s “certainly perfect timing” announcing the timepiece during the grass court season in the United Kingdom.
The Rado Captain Cook x Cameron Norrie Limited Edition features a 42mm polished stainless steel case and crown and a polished stainless steel rotating bezel with a polished green high-tech ceramic bezel insert with engraved numbers and markers in matt white Super-LumiNova. Only 823 pieces will be made available, with the number corresponding to the tennis star’s birthday of August 23.
Having worked with Rado closely over the past year on the watch, Norrie says he had been “massively involved” in the design process and thinks the team has done an “outstanding job.” When asked about his favorite features, Norrie says: “I like all of it honestly — especially the dark green. The best features for me are the small tennis balls at 3 o’clock, 6 o’clock, 8 o’clock and 12 o’clock position, resembling the scoring of 15/30/40/game.”
Being Norrie’s first personal design with Rado, the limited edition timepiece is completed with 3 different interchangeable straps, including a green Nato strap and a stainless steel bracelet. “It is overall a very clean watch,” Norrie adds, “It’s nice to have the different straps as well to make it look a little bit more vintage whilst keeping it classy with the black and the bracelet. So I think it covers all areas.”
Adrian Bosshard, Rado’s CEO and ex professional sports person in motorcars, says he discovered the “uniqueness and all features of tennis” after his son and daughter started to play the sport. “We really share the same value,” says Bosshard about Rado and Norrie: “When you see how Cameron is concentrated on the court when he’s serving or returning and making all the movements, it’s well organized with perfect technique and precision: much like the work of our engineers and watchmakers — they must be quietly organized and precise, otherwise [the mechanics of the watch] will fail. And it’s the same when Cameron wants to win matches, he must be like this.” Rado Captain Cook x Cameron Norrie has been involved with tennis since 1985, both in tournaments and with selective players. Having installed its first corner clocks at the Swiss Open in Gstaad, the brand has been one of the sport’s leading timekeepers ever since. With its YoungStar programme, Rado has partnered with promising tennis talents, accompanying them in their pursuit of perfection and their demonstration of endurance, strength of character, and dynamism. “Tennis is the sporting expression of the very things that define Rado: relentless determination and our unbreakable will to test our limits again and again.” Says Bosshard. “And Cameron perfectly represents this attitude. He is driven to deliver an inspired performance in every match, on every surface, against every competitor.” Speaking of Rado’s future plans in growth and development, Bosshard elaborates: “It’s our responsibility to evolve with time, innovate with new materials and designs, look to cooperate with young dynamics like Norrie whilst looking after existing clients.” “We are attracting younger generation like the millennials, and today our biggest challenge is to produce enough timepieces to serve all the demands.” Bosshard comments, noting with a smile it is a nice problem to have.
Originally launched in 2021, the Breitling Top Time Classic Cars series is the brand’s tribute to iconic American sports cars from the 1950s and 1960s. Much like the original Top Time chronograph, the modern Breitling Top Time collection represents a lighthearted break from tradition, and the Classic Cars series further leans into this spirit with bright colors and automotive-inspired design elements. The original Breitling Top Time Classic Cars series consisted of three different models that were each inspired by a different classic American Car, and although they weren’t limited to a specific number of examples, the series was only produced for a single year. Following the success of the original trio of models, Breitling is bringing back the Top Time Classic Cars series for 2023, and in addition to adding a new fourth member to the lineup, the brand is also giving the other three models a significant update compared to their predecessors from just a couple of years ago.
The latest addition to the Breitling Top Time Classic Cars collection for 2023 is the Ford Thunderbird edition, which features a white dial and a bright red strap. The other three models making their return as part of this second generation of Top Time Classic Cars watches are the Ford Mustang edition with a dark green dial, the Chevrolet Corvette version with a bright red dial, and the Shelby Cobra-inspired model, which features a blue dial with contrasting white registers. Additionally, similar to the first generation of Breitling Top Time Classic Cars watches, the Shelby Cobra edition features a two-register layout, while the rest of the models all have three chronograph registers on their dials. The primary reason for the different number of registers is due to the shape of the Shelby Cobra logo. Unlike the other three logos, which can comfortably fit under the Breitling emblem on the upper half of the dial, the Shelby Cobra logo is circular and requires more space. Relocating the logo to the lower half of the dial and having it take the place of the third chronograph register ultimately allows for a greater sense of balance and a less cluttered display.
Although the dials fitted to the new Breitling Top Time B01 Classic Cars watches all offer a similar overall appearance to those from the first generation, they also incorporate a number of small updates and refinements. While the registers still appear in the collection’s signature “squircle” shape (a mixture between a square and a circle), the order of the registers has now changed due to the use of a different movement, and the running seconds sub-dial has moved to 9 o’clock location. In addition to other small updates relating to the tachymeter scales that surround the periphery of the dials, the Ford Mustang, Chevrolet Corvette, and Shelby Cobra models all have a subtle tone-on-tone racing stripe running down the center of their dials, which reveals itself when viewed in bright light.
From an external perspective, the new generation of Breitling Top Time B01 Classic Cars models offers much of the same shape and profile as their first-generation counterparts. However, while the first generation features a 40mm case, the new Top Time Classic Cars watches have stainless steel cases that measure 41mm in diameter by 13.8mm-thick, with 20mm lugs and an overall lug-to-lug distance of 50.36mm. Similar to the first generation, a cambered sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment on both sides sits above the dial, while a signed winding crown at the 3 o’clock location flanked by two pump-style pushers offers access to the movement. Additionally, just like the previous generation, water resistance for the new Top Time B01 Classic Cars watches comes in at a fairly respectable 100 meters.
With that in mind, one of the most significant updates to the case of the new Breitling Top Time B01 Classic Cars models is in regard to their casebacks. While the first generation had solid stainless steel casebacks, the new Top Time Classic Cars watches all have sapphire display casebacks that have the logos of their respective cars printed on the underside surfaces of the display windows. Generally speaking, I’m not the biggest fan of graphics on display casebacks, as they can often defeat the entire purpose of having a display window in the first place. However, the logos are quite small on the new Top Time Classic Cars watches, and since they sit right above the axle of the rotor, they ultimately do very little in terms of actually obscuring a view of the movement.
Powering the new generation of Breitling Top Time B01 Classic Cars watches is the brand’s manufacture Caliber 01 automatic chronograph movement. An integrated self-winding chronograph that operates with a column wheel and a vertical clutch, the Breitling Cal. 01 runs at a frequency of 28,800vph (4 Hz) while offering users a power reserve of approximately 70 hours. Breitling first unveiled its Caliber 01 manufacture movement in 2009, and in the years since making its debut, the Cal. B01 has steadily been making its way throughout the brand’s catalog, and it now serves as the foundation for a number of other related Breitling movements. In addition to being a proven design, the Breitling Cal. 01 is also a COSC-certified chronometer, meaning that the new generation of Top Time Classic Cars watches is guaranteed to keep time within -4/+6 seconds per day.
All of the new Breitling Top Time B01 Classic Cars watches are available with the option of either two-piece calfskin leather straps or stainless steel mesh bracelets fitted with butterfly-style folding clasps. Tapering from 20mm at the lugs to 18mm where they meet their signed stainless steel deployant buckles, the leather straps for the new Top Time Classic Cars series come in complementary colors for the dials of the watches, with the Ford Thunderbird model receiving a red strap, the Chevrolet Corvette edition fitted with a black strap, and both the Ford Mustang and Shelby Cobra versions receiving dark brown straps. Additionally, regardless of color, all of the leather straps feature Breitling’s signature bright yellow lining and a racing-style perforated pattern on their outer surfaces.
This year marks the 100th year of the 24 Hours of Le Mans, and when the famed endurance race ran a couple of weeks ago – we were there, and it was rad. But that’s not the only race to be held on the Circuit de la Sarthe this month, as the track is also host to the biennial Le Mans Classic, a vintage racing event that will run from June 29th to July 2nd. In honor of both the centenary of Le Mans and the 11th installment of the Le Mans Classic, Richard Mille has announced a limited edition iteration of its RM 72-01 Flyback Chronograph called the RM 72-01 Le Mans Classic.
Richard Mille has been a partner of the Le Mans Classic event since it started in 2002, and the event has grown into something closer to a festival, with more than 800 vintage racing cars taking to the track over the course of the weekend. It’s a huge event with a lot of special programming, so if you’re in the area, be sure to dig into the calendar here.
Moving on to the watch, Richard Mille has been producing a special version for Le Mans Classic since 2008, and the RM 72-01 LMC is limited to 150 units and features a white and green Quartz TPT case with matching dial accenting and a matching rubber strap. The tonneau case’s dimensions are 38.4mm x 11.68mm x 47.34mm, and it is mechanically identical to the other existing iterations of the 72-01.
This means that the 72-01 LMC sports the brand’s first flyback chronograph movement, the CRMC-1. It’s an automatic 4Hz movement with a 24-hour chronograph, a big date display, and a function indicator that shows when the chronograph is running. The titanium dial is also adorned with a Le Mans Classic nameplate and nods to the running of the race, including showing the “16” in red as a nod to the 4 PM start time of the race. Richard Mille’s tagline is literally “a racing machine on the wrist,” so we can’t be surprised that they wanted to celebrate both their continued connection with the event of Le Mans Classic, but also to the history of Le Mans over the past 100 years. Rolex can’t have all the fun, right? And really, this is Richard Mille doing what it does best, creating a special limited version of an already deeply impressive and eye-wateringly expensive watch. Also, if you’re going to make a $335,000 chronograph (which is essentially a mid-range product in terms of the price scope for Richard Mille), there’s no better audience than the sort of folks who can afford to be custodians for vintage race cars.
While I might prefer my own 72-01 in a less-white colorway, the platform has had several previous iterations, and it’s a model that manages to capture the core of the Richard Mille appeal. It’s a tech-forward and aesthetically boisterous racing chronograph that, like many of the brand’s watches (and collectors), absolutely feels as though it has come from the world of automotive racing.
Sure, it’s both laughably expensive and not exactly subtle, but – just like in the world of top-spec auto racing – for Richard Mille, that’s arguably a feature rather than a bug.
In celebrating 100 years of 24 Hours of Le Mans Race, Richard Mille has released a new flyback chronograph reference dedicated to the endurance racing event — aptly named the RM 72-01 Le Mans Classic.
Doused in the event’s emblematic hues, this exclusive timepiece features a white and green Quartz TPT case. Faithful to its fellow-72-01 models, the Le Mans Classic edition measures 38.4mm in diameter, 47.34mm in height, and 11.68mm in thickness. Spotlighted at the center of the watch is its unique open-work titanium dial that emulates the Le Mans circuit, including the “16” marking that’s underlined in red on the hour counter.
Dubbed by the brand as “a racing machine on the wrist,” this time-teller not only boasts an eye-catching appearance but it’s also powered by Richard Mille’s in-house CRMC-1 flyback “Lifestyle” chronograph caliber. In addition, the skeletonized movement is equipped with essential timekeeping functions, alongside a date display, stop seconds, and a 50-hour power reserve. The in-house caliber can be observed via the watch’s see-through sapphire crystal caseback.
Continuing the legacy of one of the most iconic watches of all time is a lot to live up to. Ask the people in charge at Audemars Piguet what it feels like to have people refer to them as a “single-watch brand” with the Royal Oak. Or recall Thierry Stern’s comments about the reasoning behind the discontinuation of the steel Nautilus (for now). None of these comments are true – Audemars Piguet has stuck it out with the Code 11.59, and Patek is flexing their muscles elsewhere as well – yet heavy is the head that wears the crown of an iconic watch.
Few watches are as iconic as the Type 20, one of the seminal and purpose-built pilot’s watches. So when Breguet announced their new Breguet Type XX (and Type 20) in Paris this past Wednesday, no one should have been surprised that the reception from the enthusiast crowd would be tough – unless it was done their way – “the right way.” Lionel a Marca, CEO of Breguet, expected as much.
“If I hadn’t included the calendar, some would’ve asked for one. You can never make everyone happy,” a Marca told me in an interview a day after the release, speaking of the date function. “We are living now in the 21st century, and given the current trends, a watch that doesn’t feature a calendar wouldn’t really be appreciated by the clients. So it’s almost a necessity today. But if I wanted to do an exact replica of the original watch, it also wouldn’t have been an automatic, it would have been manual.”
There’s a lot to debate about who brands are responsible to when it comes to a release like the Type 20. While our initial post racked up over 100 passionate comments, it’s become pretty clear to me that most buyers of a watch like the Type 20 aren’t particularly educated on the history of the model, the brand, or even readers of watch media. In fact, a lot of people in the retail space have told me online comments probably won’t have much of an impact on sales. Before we get into that topic, I have to say that I genuinely think that the Type 20 and Breguet Type XX (which I’ll occasionally here-on-out refer to as the Type 20/XX when talking about them both) are very solid watches that are getting overshadowed by a few decisions.
The similar names for the two watches released this week can get kind of confusing, and having to constantly use parentheticals to “clarify” the name – “(military version)” and “(civilian version)” – left me waiting for Breguet to drop a surprise “(Taylor’s version).” Shoutout to the tiny overlap of aviation watch lovers and Swifties that got that reference. It took me an hour or so – and a bit of exposure to two original Type 20/XX models on display at Musée de l’Air et de l’Espace du Bourget – to automatically delineate the difference in my head. The “Type 20” was the military specification for the watch and therefore is the military model, and Type XX is the civilian version.
When Breguet originally received the Type 20 specifications, they quickly threw their hat into the ring. The Breguet family, after all, had deep ties to aviation and Société des Ateliers d’Aviation Louis Bréguet (also known as Bréguet Aviation) was a major force in aircraft manufacturing after its founding by Louis Charles Breguet in 1911. When France entered World War I, the country had 120 aircraft. By the end of the war, Louis Breguet’s company had played its part in making some of the 55,000 aircraft and 110,000 engines produced by the country during the war. Forty years after the start of World War I, Montres Breguet would join the fray with their creation of the Type 20 (a two-register chronograph) alongside a number of other companies like Airain, Dodane, Vixa, Auricoste, and Mathey-Tissot, all of which stepped up to the Type 20 demands – most importantly that it was a flyback chronograph. For civilians, the brand produced the Breguet Type XX , with three registers, and the delineation was born.
It makes sense that five years after the discontinuation of the Type XX ref. 3800 that Breguet wouldn’t have just released one simple chronograph. Those five years were actually spent developing what a Marca said was an evolution that pushed the model forward, reminding me that Abraham-Louis Breguet himself would have never been content to remake an old watch if new technology had been available.
“I get the feeling that, especially from collectors, there’s an urge to hang on to the past,” says a Marca. “It’s a sense that Breguet is not allowed to evolve, not allowed to introduce new features, new functionalities, because it could have an impact on the DNA of the brand. And this is difficult because we want the brand to evolve with the times quite naturally.”
“Abraham Louis-Breguet was an innovator, an ‘Avant-Gardist.’ If he did everything that other brands did, the history of the brand couldn’t be the history we have today. So if we continue to do the same and replicate the watches we did in the past, how can we say we’re going into the future?”
Through that lens, it’s a bit easier to appreciate the steps that Breguet has taken with the Type 20/XX. The new caliber 728 and 7281 movements are certainly steps forward for the brand. The actuation of the start/stop/reset and flyback functions all have a satisfying crispness to them, with a balanced push all the way through. There’s no sense of slippage that you might get from other chronographs or too much resistance that would make you mistime the purpose of using the chronograph.
That gets back to the key functionality of the watch. The flyback functionality is essential for a pilot’s watch, especially when a pilot is flying on instruments. A pilot I spoke to at the Type 20 launch reiterated stories I’ve heard in the past, harrowing tales of flying using only instruments and being unable to see the outside world. In these cases, you have to time each turn to the second based on your flight speed, calculations on a slide rule, and the use of a map to prevent you from potentially flying into things like mountains. I hope never to be in that situation, but I could imagine having a big, legible, and reliable chronograph like the new Type 20/XX would be a relief.
Obviously, I wasn’t able to test the full 60 hours of power reserve or the long-term accuracy. The oscillating weight and column wheel are DLC-coated, a purely visual choice that brings contrast to the movement. The vertical clutch adds a level of reliability and complexity to the movement as well. Furthermore, the balance spring, the escape wheel, and the pallet-lever horns are all made of silicon. The watch also featured a good deal of hand finishing on the bridges and chronograph works, which, as a part of a brand-new fully-integrated flyback chronograph movement, feels in line with the asking price of $18,000.
But let’s be clear; the negative reactions to the watch largely seem to boil down mostly to one thing: an aesthetic, market-shaped, or practically-driven choice to include a date window on a watch that traditionally didn’t have one. Well, the price was another point of contention too but I have to admit that’s harder to judge. As I said previously, I didn’t find the price shocking, albeit maybe a bit higher than I’d hoped. But let’s get back to the date window.
In the past, you had the option to buy the original without a date or the Breguet Type XX “Transatlantique” ref. 3820 with a date (or Type XXI with a date as well). In any case, the date window sat at six o’clock, which seemed to be the lesser of all “evils” to watch commentators as it protected the balance of the dial. The very inclusion of a date was bound to upset traditionalists, but here, Breguet has chosen what is largely considered by that same group to be the least-ideal option: a 4:30 date window.
That date window is further punctuated/emphasized by the inclusion of “Swiss Made” between the window and the minute track, which doesn’t exactly help hide the date window. I think the biggest issue I have with the date window myself is that dates were never included in the original military specification (nor was an automatic movement, I take your point Mr. a Marca). But if the brand was set on releasing two watches, maybe it would have been possible to forego the date on at least one of them. I talked to a number of collectors and retailers at the launch event, and it seems obvious that the date window is the last thing on the general population’s mind. Even the collectors I spoke to (who were admittedly almost exclusively collectors of modern Breguet) were not fazed in the slightest by the date. One retailer already had a few preorders in less than 24 hours. That retailer also told me that from his experience, Breguet is a brand that is more often bought by somewhat wealthy collectors as a starting point on their way up to watches at multiple times the price. I’m not sure if that’s true across the board, but it’s certainly true that people can like Breguet – or watches in general – without being a part of a deeply (and fanatically) passionate online community of detail-oriented fans of horological history. And if Breguet’s market research has shown that dates sell watches, this was the best option for the Type 20/XX. I understand the frustration of the traditionalist collectors. Breguet has shown with their Only Watch pieces in 2019 and 2021 that they know exactly what purists want, so it’s frustrating when those releases are limited to watches far outside the reach of anyone but a single collector. But the acknowledgment from a Marca gives me a lot of hope, frankly, that there will be watches coming in the future that better satisfy the core of the traditional audience. Heck, I consider myself a traditionalist usually, too. That’s why I love so many of the features of these releases when you look past the belabored date.
Girard-PerregauxCasquette 2.0 Saint Laurent 01
In the 1970s, the Girard-Perregaux Casquette 2.0 Saint Laurent 01 embraced new technologies, new materials, and a new design. “Disruptive”, “innovative” and “unorthodox” were just some of the words uttered at the time of its launch. In 1976, Girard-Perregaux unveiled the Casquette, a cutting-edge timepiece endowed with a tubular LED display. Powered by a quartz movement, tapping into the horological zeitgeist of the 70s, the watch looked very different from the traditional two-handers of the time. The original model displayed the hours, minutes, seconds, day, and date with its quartz movement delivering a high degree of precision.
On February 22, 2022, a re-edition of the original Girard-Perregaux Casquette 2.0 Saint Laurent 01 was presented in a limited edition of 820 pieces as an ode to the total production of 8,200 pieces ever produced of the 1970s Casquette. At that time the watch sold out within two hours of its release at a price of $4,700 USD. The Casquette 2.0 was housed in a scratch-resistant black ceramic case and featured a grade 5 titanium case back. Now, another re-edition in a limited edition of 100 pieces is being presented by Anthony Vaccarello, the Creative Director of Yves Saint Laurent and Girard-Perregaux. This time, the Girard-Perregaux Casquette 2.0 Saint Laurent 01 is also equipped with a chronograph and can also display the time in a different location. Another difference between this model and its predecessor is that the Girard-Perregaux ‘GP’ logo, the case back, the clasp, and the pushers are blacked out in black PVD titanium. The case measures 42.4 mm x 33.6 mm x 14.64 mm. The Girard-Perregaux Casquette 2.0 Saint Laurent 01 will be available exclusively at Saint Laurent Rive Droite stores in Paris and Los Angeles, as well as online via the official Saint Laurent Rive Droite store, in selected countries only.
The world-renowned watchmaker is back to shock the scene with two new lightweight models.
Symbolizing itself as a leader through a complex collection of high-end timepieces, Richard Mille delivers a one-of-a-kind experience using innovative design and performance. Exploring the ideas of using new materials and colorways, Richard Mille is pleased to present the all-new RM 17-02 Tourbillon Collection. Embodying the Haute Horlogerie values of both tradition and excellence, the RM17-02 focuses on the brand’s strategic approach of differentiating itself from all other competitors.
The new RM 17-02 features a classic tonneau case shape crafted from a blend of TZP ceramic and satin 18k red gold, which comes available in both white and blue versions. As a sports model designed for everyday use, Richard Mille seals its case with eight titanium screws to ensure its 50-meter water resistance.
MUST-READ: The Top 10 Best Richard Mille Watches Ever Created
Showcasing its complication as the main attraction, the RM 17-02 presents a skeleton dial that provides a clear view of the mechanism at work. The Tourbillon stands proud at the six o’clock position as its powers the watch’s time-only functions. A transparent sapphire backcase offers a secondary view of the movement while the outer portion includes engravings to commemorate the special release.
Operating as a true sports model that can withstand all conditions, Richard Mille fits the RM 17-02 with black and matching blue rubber straps that are easily interchangeable. The all-new Richard Mille RM 17-02 Tourbillon Collection is currently available through an authorized dealer with pricing upon request. Check back into duPont REGISTRY for more upcoming luxury watch news and releases.
An interpretation of a gravity-defying ballet which dances to the rhythm of their curves, the new Richard Mille RM 17-02 are odes to elegance and excellence. With the same beating heart and blue blood coursing through their veins, they are united in the desire to convey our passion for design and engineering. Symbolizing itself as a leader through a complex collection of high-end timepieces, Richard Mille delivers a one-of-a-kind experience using innovative design and performance. Exploring the ideas of using new materials and colorways, Richard Mille is pleased to present the all-new RM 17-02 Tourbillon Collection. Embodying the Haute Horlogerie values of both tradition and excellence, the RM17-02 focuses on the brand’s strategic approach of differentiating itself from all other competitors. The new RM 17-02 features a classic tonneau case shape crafted from a blend of TZP ceramic and satin 18k red gold, which comes available in both white and blue versions. As a sports model designed for everyday use, Richard Mille seals its case with eight titanium screws to ensure its 50-meter water resistance. Showcasing its complication as the main attraction, the RM 17-02 presents a skeleton dial that provides a clear view of the mechanism at work. The Tourbillon stands proud at the six o’clock position as its powers the watch’s time-only functions. A transparent sapphire backcase offers a secondary view of the movement while the outer portion includes engravings to commemorate the special release. Operating as a true sports model that can withstand all conditions, Richard Mille fits the RM 17-02 with black and matching blue rubber straps that are easily interchangeable. The all-new Richard Mille RM 17-02 Tourbillon Collection is currently available through an authorized dealer with pricing upon request
Previously known as both the Whitbread Round the World Race and The Volvo Ocean Race, The Ocean Race (which was recently renamed for the 2022-2023 edition) celebrates its 50th anniversary this year, and as the Official Timekeeper of this historic sailing event, Ulysse Nardin has created a new limited-edition timepiece as its latest release of 2023. After four months of racing at sea — starting in Alicante, Spain in January and stopping off at cities in Cape Verde, South Africa, and Brazil — The Ocean Race has most recently made a pit stop in Newport, Rhode Island (USA), where Ulysse Nardin has taken the opportunity to unveil its latest creation to the public. Officially known as the Ulysse Nardin The Ocean Race Diver Chronograph (yes, the inclusion of the word “the” in the formal title makes for a rather cumbersome name), this new limited-edition watch builds upon the core design of the standard-production models to create a new colorway that incorporates recycled materials and highlights Ulysse Nardin’s ongoing commitment to sustainability.
In terms of its core design and functionality, the new Ulysse Nardin The Ocean Race Diver Chronograph (ref. 1503-170LE-2A-TOR/3A) is largely the same as other titanium models from the current collection, such as the version we previously reviewed here. While the 44mm sandblasted titanium case has been carried over from the existing range, it has now been given a black DLC finish and fitted with a unidirectional rotating timing bezel with a concave insert made from Carbonium, which is Ulysse Nardin’s carbon composite material that was first introduced in 2019. The bezel insert features a white elapsed time scale with bright blue hashes to denote the five-mute markers that are positioned between the large white Arabic numerals located at the cardinal points. Blue and white are the official colors of The Ocean Race, and they also serve as the colorway of this latest limited-edition model, with the two bright tones set against the largely black case and strap of the watch.
While carbon composite bezel inserts can be found on a number of differnt models from the greater Ulysse Nardin Diver lineup, the Carbonium used on The Ocean Race Diver Chronograph incorporates recycled carbon fibers that have been reclaimed from airplane fuselage offcuts, and this results in a 40% lower environmental impact compared to other carbon composites. Just like the rest of the standard-production chronograph models from Ulysse Nardin’s Diver collection, The Ocean Race edition features a domed sapphire crystal protecting its dial, a screw-on display caseback, 300 meters of water resistance, and a signed screw-down crown located at 3 o’clock, which is flanked by a pair of chronograph pushers. However, to denote the 50th anniversary of The Ocean Race, this new limited-edition model includes a “50” printed on the underside surface of its sapphire display caseback, and the start/stop pusher located at 2 o’clock features a bright blue accent ring to match the colorway of the watch.
In much the same way that the overall design of the case has been carried over from previous Diver Chronograph models in the current lineup, the dial fitted to The Ocean Race edition also follows in the footsteps of its siblings, and it offers a three-register layout with a circular date window at the 6 o’clock location. Similar to other current-production Diver Chronograph models, the hands and hour markers are rhodium-plated and filled with Super-LumiNova; however, the dial fitted to The Ocean Race edition incorporates recycled materials in its construction, and it features a sandblasted surface with a matte black finish. The printing on the dial is primarily white, although it is punctuated by bright blue accents that complement the chronograph hands and the five-minute markings on the bezel.
Beyond the new colorway and updated finishing, the actual layout of the dial remains unchanged, and the new Ulysse Nardin The Ocean Race Dive Chronograph features a 30-minute counter at 3 o’clock, a 12-hour totalizer at 6 o’clock, and a running seconds sub-dial positioned at the 9 o’clock location. Additionally, while the three hands that display the time are given a polished rhodium-plated finish, the other three hands dedicated to the chronograph are painted bright blue, and this difference in colors helps to provide better at-a-glance reference of both the time and chronograph. While no mention of The Ocean Race appears on the dial, the 9 o’clock side of the case features a screw-on plaque that features an engraving of each watch’s individual limited-edition number finished in bright blue to match the accents on the dial and bezel.
Powering the new Ulysse Nardin The Ocean Race Dive Chronograph is the same in-house Caliber UN-150 automatic movement that can be found inside many of the brand’s other modern chronograph-equipped models. The Ulysse Nardin Cal. UN-150 has been around since 2013, and it offers a proven design with enough modern technology to still feel thoroughly contemporary when compared to other self-winding chronograph movements that are currently available. Running at a frequency of 28,800 bph (4Hz) with a power reserve of approximately 52 hours, the 318-component Caliber UN-150 is a three-register, 12-hour chronograph with the added utility of a date display, and it also features a balance wheel, anchor, and hairspring crafted from silicon for superior timekeeping and magnetic resistance.
Completing the new Ulysse Nardin The Ocean Race Dive Chronograph is a black rubber strap in the brand’s signature style that features a single link integrated into the 6 o’clock side. While the purpose of this single link is largely ornamental, it does help the strap articulate more on the side of the wrist that sees the most movement, and it ultimately helps increase the flexibility of what is already a rather soft and comfortable design. The strap slightly flares out at the lugs to offer a more integrated appearance with the case before tapering back down to the point where it meets its chunky signed pin buckle. Additionally, Rather than being crafted from DLC-coated titanium to match the case, both the strap link and pin buckle are made from black ceramic, and the link features an engraving of The Ocean Race logo that is finished in blue and white to match the rest of the watch.
Breguet is updating its perpetual calendar with the new Breguet Classique Quantième Perpétuel 7327. It’ll succeed the long-standing ref. 5327 that’s been in Breguet’s collection since 2004. The new reference simplifies Breguet’s perpetual calendar, but it still looks classically Breguet.
Like the previous 5327, the new Breguet Classique Quantième Perpétuel 7327 measures 39mm and 9mm thick, available in an 18-karat white or pink gold case. The main design update is the addition of a retrograde month display at 11 o’clock, which takes the place of a power reserve indicator in the 5327. This means the new perpetual calendar has five sub-displays, not six. The date indicator at six o’clock has also been enlarged, balancing out the retrograde and making it more readable. Another readily noticeable change is the moonphase indicator: still sitting between two and three o’clock, it does away with its classic engraved cloud motif and man-in-the-moonphase, opting instead for a simpler hand-hammered moon. Removing the smiling, whimsical moon, not to mention the extra steps required to create it, might come as a disappointment to some, though the new moon does have a charm all its own.
As is typical with Breguet, the dial is solid gold that’s been silvered and finished with guilloche using traditional rose engines. But the guilloche has been simplified: it’s now finished entirely in a single clous de Paris pattern – the previous generation used various guilloche patterns across the sub-displays, giving the dial additional texture and complexity, both in production and in aesthetic. That said, the hobnail pattern in the updated 7327 does look finer; together, the updates make for a cleaner, simpler dial that’s asymmetrical in the tradition of Breguet. The outer hour scale is brushed, and the Breguet secret signature can be seen engraved on either side of 12 o’clock.
Other elements of the 7327 are also traditionally Breguet – of course, that starts with the blued steel Breguet hands. The midcase features a coin-edge finish, and the long, thin lugs are soldered to the case.
The ref. 7327 is powered by the familiar 502.3.P, an ultra-thin perpetual automatic caliber with a perpetual calendar module. It’s the same base movement used in the previous 5327 (and older ref. 3310 for that matter), but with a modified perpetual calendar module that accommodates the updated dial design. While the previous 5327 was beautifully engraved and featured a skeletonized gold rotor, that’s also been retired for more traditional and simple finishing in the updated 7327. The updated 502.3.P does come with a few other technical upgrades, including a free-sprung balance wheel and a silicon hairspring.
The 7327 takes as its inspiration the previous 5327 and the original 3310, which was introduced in 1986 when watchmaker Daniel Roth was in charge of reviving the brand. Both watches had essentially the same dial design and layout, with six subdials for power reserve, day, date, month, leap year, and moonphase. The subdials on these older references even exhibit different guilloche patterns – these were ornate, complicated watches, and there’s a reason collectors have taken increased notice of the ref. 3310 in particular recently (thanks in part to its connection to Roth, no doubt).
But the 7327 is a more simple and contemporary spin on Breguet’s perpetual calendar, while still trying to execute Breguet traditional aesthetic and classical inspiration that dates to the 18th century. The two most noticeable changes are the simplified dial and movement finishing. Breguet is known as one of the largest owners of guilloche machines in Switzerland and is one of the few brands that actually puts them to use to create guilloche dials using the traditional method. That said, winnowing down the guilloche to a single clous de Paris pattern will come to the chagrin of some, removing classic details in the name of making the 7327 more contemporary.
It seems Breguet has also done away with the intricate engraving of the movement from the 5327, which was complete with an engraved and skeletonized gold rotor. This ornate finishing set Breguet’s perpetual calendar apart, but it’s been retired in favor of a movement that looks much more traditional and common. In the same way I’ll miss the multiple guilloche patterns on the dial, I’ll also miss the engraved bridges and rotor of the 5327. That said, the updated movement features Cotes de Geneve, anglage, polished screws, and other finishing you’d expect in a high-end caliber. The updated Quantième Perpétuel uses the same base caliber 502 that Breguet’s been using since the reference 3310. It has an F. Piguet caliber 71 as its foundation, a well-known ultra-thin movement that high-end brands have used since the ’70s. Perhaps the most noticeable feature of the 502.3.P is the off-center rotor, which can be seen through the sapphire caseback.
The Breguet Quantième Perpétuel 7327 has a retail price of $80,200. For now, the previous 5327 is still listed in Breguet’s catalog at a price of $73,900. If you’re a fan of those dial and movement details that set apart the 5327, it’s your chance to pick one up, and for less than the updated, simplified 7327 (better yet, the 36mm ref. 3310 can be found for a fraction of either). This represents about an 8 percent price bump, not out of line with what we’ve seen from other brands over the past few years.
Even with these updates to its Quantième Perpétuel, Breguet remains committed to its classical and traditional viewpoint on watchmaking, if a bit simplified. The 7327 seems to maintain this classical perspective while updating it for contemporary tastes.