Rolex Oyster Perpetual Day-Date 40

Rolex introduced a new version of the Rolex Oyster Perpetual Day-Date 40, with a fluted bezel, this week at Watches & Wonders 2022.

The 2022 Rolex Oyster Perpetual Day-Date 40 (Ref. 228236) features an ice-blue dial (exclusive to platinum Rolexes), a 950 platinum case, bracelet, and an all-new fluted platinum bezel — with three hand timekeeping and the marquee day/date function, powered by Rolex caliber 3255. Dating back to 1956, the Day-Date was the first calendar wristwatch to indicate, in addition to the date, the day of the week spelled out in full in an arc-shaped window at 12 o’clock on the dial (the day of the week is available in a choice of 26 languages). The Day-Date, also known as the Presidents’ watch, is available exclusively in precious metals: 18K yellow, 18K white, or 18K Everose gold, and 950 platinum. Until 2022, the fluted bezel found on Day-Dates has only been offered in 18K gold, making this the first time platinum has been used by Rolex to produce a fluted bezel. Platinum has more heft than gold, and a white sheen that’s not quite the same as white gold, even though white gold does have some platinum in it. Platinum is notoriously difficult to work with, especially finishing it, so naturally, Rolex came up with a new manufacturing process for creating a fluted bezel in 950 platinum. Driven by automatic caliber 3255 (which debuted in 2015), the hours, minutes, seconds, day/date functions can run autonomously for up to 70-hours when the mainspring is fully wound. Each movement is tested to Superlative Chronometer specifications of -2/+2 after the movement is actually cased up, which is impressive, but no different than any current Rolex movement, as all carry this superior chronometer rating. Components such as the nickel-phosphorus anti-magnetic Chronergy escapement, which combines high energy efficiency with high reliability, and the shock-resistant and antimagnetic Parachrom balance spring, contribute to the caliber 3255s high accuracy and precision. Furthermore, the oscillator is fitted on the Rolex-designed, patented high-performance Paraflex shock absorbers, increasing the movement’s shock resistance. Being an Oyster case, the Rolex Oyster Perpetual Day-Date 40 has a depth rating of 100 meters, uses a screw-in caseback, and has a Twinlock screw-down crown with double gaskets to ensure that water never enters the case within the stated limits. Fitted with a three-piece link President bracelet, made in 950 platinum, integrated directly to the case, and secured via a concealed Crownclasp with ceramic inserts inside the links — the Day-Date bracelet looks as good as it performs. Rolex has not specified the retail price and instead lists it on the official page as “Price on request.” Editor’s Note: Perhaps it’s because Ceri has been spotting them on the wrists of the rich and famous, or maybe it’s thanks to the handsome green-dialled version released at Baselworld that we’re still more than a little infatuated with. Whatever the reason, the solid-gold Rolex Oyster Perpetual Day-Date 40 remains the undisputed king of power watches. We take another look at 2015’s Day-Date 40.