Richard Mille RM 65-01

As an early Christmas present to us, Richard Mille is showing its new RM 65-01, dubbed the most complicated automatic watch ever to leave its workshop. You wouldn’t immediately think that, would you? Even though the dial is the usual jumble of textures and colours that we’ve come to expect from this brand, you can make out the chronograph subdials of the watch easily. But, oh boy, is there a lot going on in there, let’s take a closer look.
The case of the watch is made in the usual Richard Mille RM 65-01 tonneau shape and measures in at 44.50mm x 49.94mm x 16.10mm. Thanks to its Carbon TPT case, where the case middle, bezel and back are made from carbon fibre, the watch will still be light on the wrist despite the bulk. A rubber strap with racing vents inspired by the world of motorsports keeps this watch snug on the wrist.
The dial of the watch us a cacophony of information which Richard Mille RM 65-01 has supplemented with colours to make a somewhat legible design. At 11 o’clock is a date window which has been arranged vertically and the numbers for which can be seen underneath the dial. This is outlined in yellow, along with the hour markers, the time hands and the subdial at 6 O’clock, these represent your everyday features. Chronograph functions are indicated through the colour orange, with the seconds hand, minute subdial and hour subdial having this colour. The split-seconds function utilises the colour blue, of course, you won’t see the split-seconds function until you activate it via the pusher at 10 O’clock.
Then there are the winding functions which are coloured red. These consist of a hand near 4 o’clock which shows you whether the crown is set for winding (W), hour adjustment (H) or date adjustment (D) and a red pusher at 8 o’clock. This pusher, when pressed, winds the movement, it only takes eight presses to wind the movement to its full 6-ish hours of power reserve from stopped (power reserve is determined by how much the chronograph is used).
The calibre RMAC4 (developed with Manufacture Vaucher, based in Fleurier) features a baseplate and bridges made of grade 5 titanium for durability and resistance to corrosion., it’s also extremely light. The watch also has the signature variable geometry rotor, which allows the staff at Richard Mille to adjust the amount of Richard Mille RM 65-01 movement the rotor does. This means that if you intend to use the watch as a part of your active lifestyle, such as playing Tennis, you can tell them to set it up that way and it’ll prevent damage to the winding components. As of yet, you can’t adjust this feature yourself. The movement also offers a 5Hz beat rate for accurate timing, but who cares really, it’s just crazy to look at.

Oris Divers Sixty-Five 38 Calibre 400

The Oris Divers Sixty-Five resurfaced in 2015, fifty years after its inaugural splash. Leaning on the design cues of its ancestor, the revisited Divers Sixty-Five oozed vintage pedigree. Although the looks of the first models were faithful to their ancestor, the watch was built with contemporary materials and powered by an outsourced movement (Sellita). The Divers Sixty-Five collection soared in popularity and appeared with different case sizes and materials and a more contemporary face. However, the breakthrough came in 2022 when Oris fitted the Divers Sixty-Five with its in-house calibre 400. Oris has been listening closely to its customers, and its latest move is bound to please fans with its 38mm case, its calibre 400 movement and – wait for it – the elimination of the date window.
The first model in the Oris Divers Sixty-Five family to benefit from the brand’s calibre 400 was a 40mm model with a date window at 6 o’clock and a 12-hour scale on the bezel. A few weeks ago, we covered another 40mm Divers Sixty-Five Hölstein Edition, also powered by the calibre 400 with a regular 60-minute bezel and date.
The latest model is the first Oris Divers Sixty-Five 38mm to receive the brand’s calibre 400. With its steel case and matching steel bezel, the watch has an attractive monochromatic look. The 60-minute scale on the sandblasted matte bezel is in relief, with polished numerals and markers, and the inverted triangle at noon has a luminous pip. The case is finished with brushed surfaces and polished bevels extending to the 3-link steel bracelet and its folding clasp with push buttons.
Although there have been some objections regarding this diver’s relatively modest 100m water-resistance (like the original), Oris has plenty of other more contemporary dive watches, like the Aquis Date with its 300m water-resistance rating or the Aquis Pro with its impressive 4,000-metre rating. Despite its name, the Divers Sixty-Five is not positioned as a professional dive watch, and its water-resistance rating is more than enough for a robust sports watch that can be used for snorkelling.
Oris has chosen an attractive shade of green for the gradient dial, offsetting the applied circular and rectangular indices treated with Super-LumiNova. The three central hands are also luminescent, ensuring visibility in low-light conditions. And what is undoubtedly the best news of all is the absence of a date window.
The dial is protected by a double-domed Oris Divers Sixty-Five 38 Calibre 400 sapphire crystal with an anti-reflective coating, and a sapphire exhibition caseback displays the brand’s manufacture calibre 400. Launched in 2020, calibre 400 is a high-performance automatic movement with twin barrels for a five-day power reserve and an anti-magnetic silicon escapement with a 10-year warranty.

Breitling Acquires Historic Brand Universal Genève

Despite being barely existent anymore or now a memory from the past, some brands continue to live within the collecting community, benefitting from a certain aura. One of these brands is Universal Genève, a once-prominent manufacturer known for its innovative designs (the Polerouter or the Tri-Compax, to name a few) and technically advanced movements (the famed micro-rotor). With the quartz crisis, Universal Genève became the shadow of itself, still producing watches as the subsidiary of a Hong Kong-based investment firm. These days are over, as UG comes back into Swiss hands after Breitling watch and its main shareholder Partners Group have announced its acquisition of Universal Genève, a move that “promises to restore the prestige of a hallowed name in the world of luxury timepieces,” according to the brand.

Founded in 1894, Universal Genève grew to become one of the top Swiss watchmakers, providing Breitling watch enthusiasts with models such as the Tri-Compax, the Aero-Compax, dozens of versions of the Polerouter (as explained in this book), racing chronographs such as the “Nina Rindt” Compax or the original Space Compax. However, like so many other brands, the advent of the quartz technology and the crisis that would follow significantly challenged the company. No dead, but certainly not as active as it used to be.
Despite this shift in its trajectory, Universal Genève or UG kept having a strong image within the collecting community, some of its models being high on the list of collectables. Since 1989, the brand has been owned by the Hong Kong-based Stelux Group – also the owner of Cyma (another Swiss watchmaker) and a prominent distributor of Seiko and Grand Seiko in Asia – which kept the name and legacy alive. Nevertheless, the destiny of the brand drastically changed, not being the same for the last 30 years.
Today, Breitling watch via its CEO Georges Kern and Partners Group (the main shareholder of Breitling), has announced the acquisition of Universal Genève from Stelux, for an undisclosed amount (rumours talk about $70 million), probably seeing huge potential in the name and highly possible synergies between brands sharing an important past presence in the field of chronograph watches – UG could be relatively easily re-started by using base movements from Breitling, such as the B01. “Rebuilding a brand with such a rich narrative is not a quick endeavour (…) It is a meticulous labour of love that we anticipate will unfold over the coming years. A dedicated team will be brought on board to allow Breitling and Universal Genève to operate as separate maisons,” explains Kern. What will be the future of Universal Genève…? Time will tell, as for now no words have been given on Breilting’s and Kern’s plans. There’s certainly massive room for improvement in the revamp of the collection, and dozens of historical models and names that are worthy of being revived. And while the grounds for success are there and the brand still benefits from a highly positive imago, we’ll have to wait a couple of years or more to see what will be the new face of UG.

The Race-Ready 2024 Chopard Mille Miglia Classic Chronograph and GTS Chrono

The legendary Italian Mille Miglia vintage car race, from Brescia to Rome and back, is just around the corner, drawing crowds of car lovers and drivers from around the world. As the sponsor and official timekeeper of this race since 1988, Chopard enjoys one of the longest-standing alliances in classic motorsports. The brand’s co-president, Karl-Friedrich Scheufele, has participated in every Mille Miglia edition since 1989. Perpetuating the brand’s tradition of Chopard Mille Miglia watches, and just four days ahead of the race, Chopard releases two Mille Miglia-themed watches, a retro-inspired Classic Chronograph with a panda dial and a limited edition GTS Chrono.
Nicknamed ‘La Gara’ (Italian for race or competition), the panda dial of the Classic Chronograph is replete with cues from the racing world. The black-and-white dial evokes the chequered flag saluting the first car crossing the finish line, and the three black counters, the shape of the hands and Arabic numerals nod to vintage car dashboards.
As a race-inspired chronograph, it has a black tachymeter scale to measure the average speed of a vehicle over a known distance. The silvery central area of the dial has a circular brushed finish, and the contrasting black sub-dials (running seconds at 3, 12-hour totaliser at 6 and 30-min counter at 9 o’clock) have snailed interiors and white tracks. The large vintage-style Arabic numerals and the baton hour and minute hands are treated with Super-LumiNova, and there is a date window angled in at 4:30. Red accents are used to highlight the 1000 Miglia arrow on the dial and the tip of the central chronograph seconds hand.
Last year, Chopard introduced a more compact version of its Classic Chronograph made from the brand’s super-hard and luminous alloy, Lucent Steel. Measuring 40.5mm across and 12.8 mm thick, the case features polished and satin-brushed finishes. The pushers, designed to look like engine pistons, are knurled like the texture of a brake pedal. The notched crown resembles a petrol tank cap and is topped with a steering wheel motif. Highlighting its retro spirit, a glass-box sapphire crystal over the dial lets more light enter the case and increases the depth of the dial opening.
Powered by a COSC-certified ETA A32.211, an upgraded modular version of the ETA 2894-2, the power reserve has increased from 42 to 54 hours, and the activation of the chronograph is smoother. The Mille Miglia Classic Chronograph is paired with a perforated rally-style black calfskin strap and a Lucent Steel pin buckle.
Chopard will gift each car crew participating in the 2024 Chopard Mille Miglia a GTS Chrono in powerful black and grey livery with red accents. It is also releasing a 100-piece limited edition, available exclusively in Italy.
The bead-blasted titanium case gives the watch an edgy, contemporary look. The dark grey titanium visually attenuates the dimensions of the large 44mm wide and 14.6mm thick case, increases its resistance to shocks and corrosion and radically reduces its weight. Highlighting its racing credentials, the tachymeter scale is featured externally on the black aluminium insert in the bezel. The black DLC crown is topped with a steering wheel, and the pushers have brake pedal motifs.
The galvanically treated frosted grey dial features black snailed sub-dials at 6, 9 and 12 o’clock and highlights the chronograph displays with red hands, matching the 1000 Miglia arrow pointing to the date window. Unlike previous editions of the Chopard GTS Chrono, the date window is now separated from the 1000 Miglia logo and enhanced with a built-in magnifier. The charcoal hour makers and baton hour and minute hands have black Super-LumiNova inserts.
Hidden under the solid caseback, decorated with the 1000 Miglia arrow logo, is an automatic chronograph movement based on the Valjoux 7750 calibre. Beating at 28,800vph, it delivers a 48-hour power reserve and is COSC-chronometer certified. The contemporary black strap is made from upcycled plastic recovered from the Mediterranean.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Mini Quartz Frosted

Today, Audemars Piguet launches the new 23mm “Mini Oak” collection. Self-referential in its re-interpretation of the 20mm Mini Royal Oak from 1997, but brand new in its 2024 packaging. It comes in three iterations: yellow, pink, and white, all with the Frosted Gold finish. Inspired by an ancient Florentine jewelry technique, the frosted gold finish was previously implemented by jewelry designer Carolina Bucci and adapted by Audemars Piguet in 2016 to adorn her collaboration with Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Mini Quartz Frosted.
The new Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Mini Quartz Frosted models pack a lot of design into the small 23mm sizing. The diamond-dust effect of the frosted gold contrasts with the polished bevels that outline the octagonal bezel and the individual links of the tapering bracelet. There is a satin finish on the case and bracelet flanks, adding even more texture to this tiny piece. The solid caseback combines sandblasting, satin brushing, and polishing to echo the case design. The watches feature a tone-on-tone Petite Tapisserie dial with lume-coated gold hour markers that match the color of the case. The hands are also slightly thicker, reminiscent of AP’s Offshore diver watches, presumably for legibility and balance. The Audemars Piguet signature at 12 o’clock is printed in black on a cartouche, while the date indication and seconds function have been omitted, again likely to enhance both legibility and to keep the tiny dial as clean as possible.
The trio of Royal Oak Mini watches are powered by Calibre 2730, a quartz movement with a battery life of over seven years. In addition, the Calibre 2730 is equipped with a “switch”: by simply pulling on the crown, the wearer can temporarily deactivate the battery. The Mini is water resistant up to 50 meters.

In theory, “shrinking” down a Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Mini Quartz Frosted might not seem so revelatory, but the Mini is not shrunken down Jumbo, nor is it a rehashing of its 20-29mm 20th-century predecessors. The smaller specs are a direct response to current consumer demand, and the design has been updated to work in a modern context. AP has taken elements of one their most successful modern “women’s” releases (Carolina Bucci’s 37mm Royal Oak Frosted Gold Selfwinding LE) and implemented the same frosted gold finishing, which is achieved through tiny indentations made on the gold surface using a diamond-tipped tool, creating a sparkly effect similar to that of precious stones. Furthermore, there is nary a gemstone in sight. These are thoroughly modern in their execution.
Small watches are trending. This statement shouldn’t come as a surprise to anybody in the watch enthusiast space. And, evidently, the brands are listening to what the consumers are asking for. Brynn Wallner, founder of Dimepiece, a platform dedicated to all things women and watches, contributed significantly to the small watch revolution. Wallner should be credited for making giant strides in the teeny tiny watch revival. Her approach was playful, and her TTRO (Teeny Tiny Royal Oak) acronym has stuck, but she was also extremely astute in realizing that there was a gap in the watch market for a size that younger, more fashion-forward types were eager to wear.

If we ask the question: who is this watch for? It becomes a pointless push and pull between an extremely antiquated gender binary mindset and today’s fluid fashion vernacular. Frankly, anybody should wear what they damn well please, and one certainly shouldn’t be chastised for promoting such a sentiment. Despite the comments section fatigue surrounding the “all watches should be unisex argument,” jewelry and adornment are deeply reflective of wider cultural mores. It is the 2024 reality, and the question of size and fluidity exists on a much larger scale in the fashion industry; we are simply seeing a trickle-down effect. And to be blunt, this is exactly what we asked for. And so, the conversation remains relevant.
Perhaps if you peel away the layer of gender, the real issue is the homogeneity in watch design. Too many brands look the same. Are we then surprised that pop stars and actors turn to smaller “ladies'” design-driven watches to stand out? And there’s an ease to throwing on a small watch. Spiritually, it’s much closer to jewelry. The point isn’t to focus on the inside of the case here but to embrace a more frivolous and decorative side to watch-wearing. Ultimately, this watch (and any watch, for that matter) is an accessory. Which is perfectly ok to admit. You can love and respect heritage and technical intricacies, and you can also appreciate small quartz-powered design watches. We aren’t picking sides.
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Mini Quartz Frosted acolytes will no doubt embrace the introduction of a mini size. The Royal Oak is an enduring symbol of Genta design, but beyond that, it’s a widely recognized design among those who are completely outside of the watch enthusiast community. I have friends who are far removed from the watch space and send me pictures of potential purchases they are considering. I would say about 75% of those pictures include a small-sized vintage Royal Oak. The mini is not just a fun release, it’s also a smart business decision. I say keep the small watch fire burning.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 37 Double Balance Wheel Openworked

Openworked or skeletonised watches are treats for the more mechanical-minded admirers of watchmaking, and the more complex the movement, the better. In 2016, Audemars Piguet increased the viewing pleasure two-fold when it unveiled its Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 37 Double Balance Wheel Openworked ref. 15407. As its name indicates, the movement was equipped with two balance wheels, one exposed on the dial of the 41mm watch. The latest duet to join the collection are two models with 37mm diameters in white or pink gold powered by the in-house calibre 3132. However, the novelty here is the tone-on-tone palette that matches the colour of the case material with the movement.
The “two is better than one” premise behind the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 37 Double Balance Wheel Openworked , explained in this video, features two balance wheels to increase chronometric performance and stability. However, to access and regulate each balance spring individually, AP’s watchmakers placed the two balance wheels and two hairsprings on a single axis but separated them, with one visible on the dial and the second on the reverse side.
While the 41mm version is more prevalent, the 37mm version of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 37 Double Balance Wheel Openworked is not new. It appeared in 2018 in a gorgeous, frosted gold case. Today, AP presents two 37mm editions: one in white gold with a rhodium-toned movement and the other in pink gold with gold-toned finishes. The familiar geometry of the Royal Oak is highlighted with satin-brushed and polished finishings.
Openworked movements, which remove as much material as possible from the mainplate and bridges to let the light through and reveal the movement, have existed at AP since the 1930s. In tune with the times, AP now uses CNC machines to cut the bridges into the desired shape and finishes them by hand using more traditional techniques.
The labyrinthine network of bridges reveals the intricacies of self-winding and patented calibre 3132. One of the balance wheels twirls between 7 and 8 o’clock on the dial, and the other is visible on the caseback. Other components, like the gear train and the mainspring, are clearly visible on the dial. The balance wheels beat at 3Hz, and the gold openworked delivers energy to the rotor for an autonomy of 45 hours.
The rhodium-toned bridges and movement of the white gold version are punctuated by touches of colour provided by the rubies and the light blue inner bezel with the applied and luminescent white gold hour markers framing the dial.

With its pink gold-toned bridges and movement and vivid purple flange, the pink gold model has a more opulent personality. For contrast, the hands and indices are crafted in white gold and treated with a streak of luminescence. Both models come with integrated gold bracelets, an additional light blue alligator strap for the white gold model, and a purple alligator strap for the pink gold with gold AP folding clasps.

U-BOAT Darkmoon 44 Unico

U-Boat has established itself as a brand synonymous with precision, innovation, and distinctive design. The U-Boat Darkmoon collection stands as a testament to the brand’s commitment to creating timepieces that encapsulate luxury and precision in a single package.

The U-BOAT Darkmoon 44 Unico watches are not just timekeepers; they are expressions of art and engineering, melding contemporary style with a vintage aesthetic. In this article, we will delve into the allure and craftsmanship that define the U-BOAT Darkmoon 44 Unico watches , showcasing why they are a must-have for watch aficionados.

U-Boat Darkmoon Collection: A Symphony of Design and Craftsmanship
The U-BOAT Darkmoon 44 Unico watches encapsulates the essence of the brand’s ethos – bold, avant-garde designs blended with the technical precision of Swiss watchmaking. The collection boasts a range of features that make it a standout in the world of luxury watches.
The Darkmoon watches are characterized by their unique and innovative design. The watches typically feature oversized cases, usually in the 45-47mm range, making a bold statement on the wrist.

The robust design is coupled with a distinctive crown positioned at 9 o’clock, an homage to the original military watches U-Boat draws inspiration from.
U-Boat uses only the finest materials and employs meticulous craftsmanship in the production of the Darkmoon collection. The cases are often crafted from stainless steel, ensuring durability and resistance to wear.

The attention to detail is apparent in every component, from the case to the dial and the straps. The dials often feature intricate designs and textures, showcasing the brand’s dedication to aesthetic appeal.
One of the hallmark features of U-BOAT Darkmoon 44 Unico watches is their exceptional visibility and legibility, even in low-light conditions.

The oversized numerals, luminescent hands, and indices ensure that time can be read at a glance, enhancing practicality without compromising on style.
U-Boat understands the importance of accurate timekeeping. The Darkmoon collection is equipped with precise Swiss automatic movements, ensuring that the watches maintain excellent accuracy and reliability.

The meticulous craftsmanship extends to the movement, ensuring a smooth and precise performance.
The Darkmoon watches come with a variety of strap options, ranging from leather to rubber, offering versatility to match different preferences and occasions. The straps are designed for comfort, allowing for prolonged wear without sacrificing style.
U-Boat is an Italian watch brand based in Tuscany. Designed by Italo Fontana, these unique remarkable timepieces combine the finest Italian craftsmanship with the designer’s exceptional vision. Inspired by the atmosphere and landscape of the region, each watch has a similar distinct tone making it stand out from the rest.

Inspired by the dark side of the moon, the Darkmoon collection takes the concept of oil immersion first introduced with the Sommerso models and improves upon it. The timepiece’s Ronda Swiss movement is completely immersed in oil. The dial gets its black colour from being surrounded by the oil.

Bremont Terra Nova 42.5 Chronograph

I’m trying hard to figure out Bremont’s latest move. On the surface, I understand that after taking on hedge fund money and bringing on ex-Tudor executive Davide Cerrato as CEO, there was probably double pressure to do something new. That pressure would’ve come from Cerrato wanting to make his mark and the investors wanting to make some money. I get that, but Bremont’s introduction the new Bremont Terra Nova collection and a completely redesigned Bremont Supermarine line, along with a new logo and brand font, seem like the blunt force method of achieving those goals. I don’t think I’m alone in struggling to connect the dots between the old Bremont and this new Bremont, and trace how those who make decisions got to a place that they thought such an approach was a good idea.
Bremont touts this sudden shift as an “evolution from the world of aviation to a new brand architecture embodying Land, Sea and Air.” Never minding the needlessly capitalized features of the Earth or the lack of an Oxford comma, using the phrase “evolution” is a stretch. Evolution implies a gradual change that builds upon past elements. But the Bremont Terra Nova and Supermarine dispose of all of what made Bremont Bremont. These are sudden transformations at best, but even that seems generous (even the beast in Beauty & the Beast still echoed his primal form when he transformed into a man). More accurate, I think is to say that the Supermarine has been replaced and the Terra Nova has been introduced. There is no evolution here. Just a hard turn in a new direction, a turn so hard everything flew out the windows.
Except, I should clarify, not everything was lost in the careening maneuver: the brand still offers almost all of its old models. They just don’t appear on the home page, instead having been crowded into a tab called “Bremont Icons”. I’d be willing to wager they’ll completely disappear soon enough, though. What’s more, the so-called evolution completely ignores the Altitude line (as it’s now called), leaving aviation-inspired models like the Fury and the MB Viper untouched, holding onto the rear fender for dear life as they know that, inevitably, evolution will come for them, too. Why go to the trouble of a major rebrand, completely replacing your best-selling collection and introducing an entire new line, and only go two-thirds of the way? Even the logos on the Altitude line haven’t been changed!
Bremont did not hold back with its new Terra Nova collection. Lots of brands will slow roll the introduction with one or two models, but Bremont I think did this properly and gave us four new models, fully rounding out the collection right from the start. The Terra Nova includes the flagship 40.5 Turning Bezel Power Reserve, the 40.5 Date, the Chronograph, and the 38. There’s something here for everyone if you like the look, and while I think the dials are exceptional at a glance, the case and bracelet leave me wanting a lot more, to say nothing of the entire collections total disconnect from any semblance of Bremont DNA whatsoever.
The unifying element of the Bremont Terra Nova is its angular tonneau case. The general criticism of this case so far has been that it’s not befitting a brand of this purported standing, nor of a watch costing a minimum of $2,850. To be sure, this kind of case is almost exclusively seen in affordable microbrands. There’s always an opportunity for such perceptions to be changed, but I’m not sure if Bremont is going to be the one to do that. The cases, which range from 38 to 42.5 (as indicated in the model names) are fully brushed, save for the 38 and 40.5 Date, which feature polished fixed bezels. The Turning Bezel Power Reserve (a name that is surely the result of countless hours of focus group testing) features a solid steel compass bezel, while the Chronograph features the same style but in steel with a ceramic insert. (There is a rather easy method of using a compass bezel for orienteering, which I can’t remember, but you can look up if you’re so inclined.) The Bremont Terra Nova watches all have 100m water resistance, sapphire crystals, and crowns that seem quite substantial, reinforcing the field operation vibe of the watch. While the Terra Nova 38 only comes on bracelet or leather, the other three models add a NATO option. The bracelet is a new design for the brand and in general, with curving links that echo the curves of the case. It has quick-release tabs for easy changes and a butterfly clasp, but my gripe with it is how the curved links start before the end of the lugs. It’s a weird design and I’m not sure what the calculus was there.
What the Bremont Terra Nova models all have in common with their dials is the use of big, bold molded Super-Lumi-Nova for their Arabic indices. These solid blocks of lume shine more brightly and evenly than typical printed lume. Every model is available in brown, except the Chronograph, which is only offered in black. Additional colors include white for the Terra Nova 38, green for the Terra Nova 40.5 Date, and blue for the Terra Nova 40.5 Turning Bezel Power Reserve. The TBPR (that works) has a running second at 9 and a power reserve at 6, while the Chronograph has sunken subdials for a running seconds and a 30-minute totalizer.
I genuinely like the look of these dials and I think they make sense with the whole Terra Nova “Land” mission that Bremont is working at. That said, the dial text could use some editing. First, you’ve got the new logo and brand font — fine, whatever. But then at 6 o’clock, you’ve got the collection name, “Automatic,” and “London” all in the same size. Why are we elevating the movement type to the level of the collection? And why is London, a town over an hour’s drive from Bremont’s manufacturing facility The Wing, on there at all? My two cents: lower this block of text down, reduce the font on “Automatic” and “London,” and change “London” to “England.” As it is, I can’t say the dial text would prevent me from purchasing one of these watches, but it’s another element that looks very much like a watch priced well under $1,000.
Finally, we arrive at the movements. The various Bremont Terra Nova all use rebranded automatic movements running at 28,800 vph. It’s possible that the TBPR uses some modification of the “in-house” ENG300, but the price doesn’t reflect that, and it may also be a Sellita of some sort like the others. The power reserve is quoted at 38 hours for the Terra Nova 38 and 40.5 Date models, 41 hours for the TBPR, and 56 hours for the Chronograph. The movements are all concealed behind solid casebacks with a globe decoration.

Oris Aquis Date 41.5mm with Watermelon Dials

Summer is in the air, and the holiday season is just around the corner. As a brand that has never been shy of colour, Oris proposes two watermelon-coloured models for its versatile Aquis Date 41.5mm dive watch. Perfect for outdoor activities but smart enough to wear daily, the Oris Aquis Date collection was recently refreshed. The design tweaks applied to the Oris Aquis Date collection introduced at Watches & Wonders earlier this year result in a more refined profile and a more comfortable wearer experience.

While blue, green and black dials have been the predominant colours of the brand’s Aquis Date collection since its launch in 2011, Oris Aquis Date stretched the colour palette with an eye-popping cherry red version in 2021 along with a multi-coloured mottled upcycled plastic dial. A year later, the Aquis Date 36.5mm appeared with colourful mother-of-pearl dials in tandem with the Cotton Candy Divers Sixty-Five bronze trilogy with shocking pink, green and baby blue dials.
For summer 2024, Oris adopts the colour palette of juicy watermelons, the fruit we all associate with the hot summer months. Featuring watermelon green or red sunray-brushed dials, the impact of the colour is accentuated by the white ceramic bezels with green or red markings. The functional unidirectional rotating bezels benefit from the recent design upgrade and have been reproportioned. The shaper outline of the luminescent Alpha hour and minute hands and shield-shaped hour markers also correspond to the aesthetic tweaks. However, one of the most significant design changes regarding the date window has not been incorporated here. Unlike the new Aquis 41.5mm models with date apertures matching the dial colour, these summer models have white backgrounds. The 300m water-resistant case flaunts its slightly slimmer profile of 12.9mm (formerly 13.3mm), shorter and more ergonomic lugs and tapering crown guards. Brushed and polished surfaces highlight the case’s construction, and the new stainless steel bracelet with redesigned links, broader brushed central links and a more tapering profile enhances comfort. Exposed through mineral glass caseback is Oris Aquis Date 733 calibre (Sellita SW200-1 base) with its signature red rotor. Beating at a frequency of 28,800vph, this automatic movement delivers a moderate power reserve of 38 hours. However, the movement is equipped with a stop-seconds device for precision time setting.

BREMONT Supermarine 300M Date

Back in 2010, Bremont introduced the Supermarine 500, which introduced a fresh take on a pretty well-trod path: the dive watch. Its unique crown guard, sapphire bezel, signature Bremont three-piece “Trip-Tick” case, and overall styling set it apart from the pack. It quickly became a favorite of dive watch lovers. Then, in 2014, came the Supermarine 2000, which quadrupled the water resistance, introduced the anti-magnetic and anti-shock properties of Bremont’s MB watches, and beefed up the case from 43mm to 45mm. The S2000 is an exercise in sheer overkill in every respect, a watch that will survive things no human wearing it ever could, something many who buy the watch appreciate.

But for many, 45mm, or even 43mm, is too large for a watch, even a diver. So at last week’s “Basel-upon-Thames” event in London, Bremont released new additions to the bremont supermarine 300m date lineup – the Type 300 and Type 301 – both with an all-new 40-millimeter case.
Bremont has always leaned hard on the aviation angle, owing to the company’s founders’ passion for flying. So even the brand’s dive watches take their name from the British company that built many legendary airplanes — Supermarine. The name Type 300 references the name given to the prototype Spitfire fighter that Supermarine built in the 1930s in advance of World War II. The new watches share the same case, which is 40mm of hardened stainless steel with the familiar three-part construction for which Bremont is known. They’re slimmed down considerably too, at 13mm from the top of the domed sapphire crystal to the rear of the solid screw-down caseback. The smaller size should improve wearability, as the S500 and S2000 are both heavy, tall leviathans. Of course, with the smaller size comes less water resistance. But 300 meters is more than adequate for scuba diving. bremont supermarine 300m also wisely edited out the helium release valve from the case, a nod to its more recreational purpose.
Instead of sapphire bezels, the new watches now sport unidirectional ratcheting ceramic timing rings, in either black or blue respectively, matching the two dial versions available. (The blue bezel on the prototype we were shown is not the final iteration and will be more closely matched to the dial on the final production models, we were told.)
The dials themselves are markedly new as well. The “corduroy” texture from the bigger Supermarines is gone, and on the Type 300, Arabic numeral are used at six, nine, and 12, with rectangular hashes replacing the large round markers of the S500 and S2000. The black dial version has faux “gilt” accents for the Bremont logo and minute track while the blue dial version sticks with white markings. The latter’s blue is reminiscent of the shimmering sunburst blue used on the blue version of Bremont’s U2 pilot’s watch, and it catches light beautifully.
The Type 301 has a more vintage-inspired style, with painted (not applied) dots and hashes and an upside-down arrowhead at 12 that, all tinted with luminescent paint meant to mimic old tritium. Sure, it might remind one of a classic Submariner in more ways than one, but Bremont is hardly the first to follow this legible convention. The dial and bezel of the Type 301 are more matte in finish than those on the Type 300, and they almost look a faded grey from certain angles.

All dials have red accents in the bremont supermarine 300m name, the sweep hand tip, and the “60” on the minute track of the Type 300. The day display of the other Supermarines is gone in favor of a white-on-black date wheel on all watches. Hands are slightly different from those on earlier Supermarines — here they’re modified swords without the round tip on the hour hand.
The Type 300 and 301 make use of a chronometer-certified, Bremont-modified self-winding ETA 2892 movement that here is called the BE-92AE. Though not in-house, in a tool diver with a solid caseback I would argue this is not terribly important, and bremont supermarine 300m does re-test its movements after they return from COSC certification and are cased up.

The watches are all available on a 20mm stainless steel bracelet, a calf leather strap, or a striped nylon NATO-style strap, with the blue Type 300 also having a blue rubber option. The nylon strap is thicker than most of the $15 aftermarket ones available and has a bit of a smooth shine to it, not unlike that found on the NATOs available from Omega.
Nick English explained that his and his brother Giles’s preference runs more to leather straps on watches, but obviously on a diver they felt that offering a steel bracelet was wise. The bracelet is of high quality and looks sharp, but the clasp is a simple two-button release with no dive extension or security latch. My opinion is that the leather is the way to wear these watches unless you’re getting them wet (in which case you can substitute nylon or rubber).

My personal impression is that these watches look better on the wrist and in person than in photos. The size is predictably good and though the more conventional designs aren’t as distinctively Bremont as the Supermarine 500 and 2000, the Trip-Tick case profile separates the Type 300 and 301 from the rest of the diver herd.
Pricing for the Type 300 and Type 301 is $4,095 on either strap and $4,695 on the bracelet. This pricing draws obvious comparisons to other high quality divers out there, such as Tudor’s Black Bay family. And while value judgments with luxury watches are largely subjective and a futile exercise, these watches do stack up well with others in the vicinity. I’ve dived many times with a Bremont Supermarine 2000 and can vouch for its robustness in its intended environment and I suspect the new Type 300 and 301 will perform similarly. And at 40mm, the new ones should be more friendly for terrestrial pursuits too.