Bremont Terra Nova 42.5 Chronograph

I’m trying hard to figure out Bremont’s latest move. On the surface, I understand that after taking on hedge fund money and bringing on ex-Tudor executive Davide Cerrato as CEO, there was probably double pressure to do something new. That pressure would’ve come from Cerrato wanting to make his mark and the investors wanting to make some money. I get that, but Bremont’s introduction the new Bremont Terra Nova collection and a completely redesigned Bremont Supermarine line, along with a new logo and brand font, seem like the blunt force method of achieving those goals. I don’t think I’m alone in struggling to connect the dots between the old Bremont and this new Bremont, and trace how those who make decisions got to a place that they thought such an approach was a good idea.
Bremont touts this sudden shift as an “evolution from the world of aviation to a new brand architecture embodying Land, Sea and Air.” Never minding the needlessly capitalized features of the Earth or the lack of an Oxford comma, using the phrase “evolution” is a stretch. Evolution implies a gradual change that builds upon past elements. But the Bremont Terra Nova and Supermarine dispose of all of what made Bremont Bremont. These are sudden transformations at best, but even that seems generous (even the beast in Beauty & the Beast still echoed his primal form when he transformed into a man). More accurate, I think is to say that the Supermarine has been replaced and the Terra Nova has been introduced. There is no evolution here. Just a hard turn in a new direction, a turn so hard everything flew out the windows.
Except, I should clarify, not everything was lost in the careening maneuver: the brand still offers almost all of its old models. They just don’t appear on the home page, instead having been crowded into a tab called “Bremont Icons”. I’d be willing to wager they’ll completely disappear soon enough, though. What’s more, the so-called evolution completely ignores the Altitude line (as it’s now called), leaving aviation-inspired models like the Fury and the MB Viper untouched, holding onto the rear fender for dear life as they know that, inevitably, evolution will come for them, too. Why go to the trouble of a major rebrand, completely replacing your best-selling collection and introducing an entire new line, and only go two-thirds of the way? Even the logos on the Altitude line haven’t been changed!
Bremont did not hold back with its new Terra Nova collection. Lots of brands will slow roll the introduction with one or two models, but Bremont I think did this properly and gave us four new models, fully rounding out the collection right from the start. The Terra Nova includes the flagship 40.5 Turning Bezel Power Reserve, the 40.5 Date, the Chronograph, and the 38. There’s something here for everyone if you like the look, and while I think the dials are exceptional at a glance, the case and bracelet leave me wanting a lot more, to say nothing of the entire collections total disconnect from any semblance of Bremont DNA whatsoever.
The unifying element of the Bremont Terra Nova is its angular tonneau case. The general criticism of this case so far has been that it’s not befitting a brand of this purported standing, nor of a watch costing a minimum of $2,850. To be sure, this kind of case is almost exclusively seen in affordable microbrands. There’s always an opportunity for such perceptions to be changed, but I’m not sure if Bremont is going to be the one to do that. The cases, which range from 38 to 42.5 (as indicated in the model names) are fully brushed, save for the 38 and 40.5 Date, which feature polished fixed bezels. The Turning Bezel Power Reserve (a name that is surely the result of countless hours of focus group testing) features a solid steel compass bezel, while the Chronograph features the same style but in steel with a ceramic insert. (There is a rather easy method of using a compass bezel for orienteering, which I can’t remember, but you can look up if you’re so inclined.) The Bremont Terra Nova watches all have 100m water resistance, sapphire crystals, and crowns that seem quite substantial, reinforcing the field operation vibe of the watch. While the Terra Nova 38 only comes on bracelet or leather, the other three models add a NATO option. The bracelet is a new design for the brand and in general, with curving links that echo the curves of the case. It has quick-release tabs for easy changes and a butterfly clasp, but my gripe with it is how the curved links start before the end of the lugs. It’s a weird design and I’m not sure what the calculus was there.
What the Bremont Terra Nova models all have in common with their dials is the use of big, bold molded Super-Lumi-Nova for their Arabic indices. These solid blocks of lume shine more brightly and evenly than typical printed lume. Every model is available in brown, except the Chronograph, which is only offered in black. Additional colors include white for the Terra Nova 38, green for the Terra Nova 40.5 Date, and blue for the Terra Nova 40.5 Turning Bezel Power Reserve. The TBPR (that works) has a running second at 9 and a power reserve at 6, while the Chronograph has sunken subdials for a running seconds and a 30-minute totalizer.
I genuinely like the look of these dials and I think they make sense with the whole Terra Nova “Land” mission that Bremont is working at. That said, the dial text could use some editing. First, you’ve got the new logo and brand font — fine, whatever. But then at 6 o’clock, you’ve got the collection name, “Automatic,” and “London” all in the same size. Why are we elevating the movement type to the level of the collection? And why is London, a town over an hour’s drive from Bremont’s manufacturing facility The Wing, on there at all? My two cents: lower this block of text down, reduce the font on “Automatic” and “London,” and change “London” to “England.” As it is, I can’t say the dial text would prevent me from purchasing one of these watches, but it’s another element that looks very much like a watch priced well under $1,000.
Finally, we arrive at the movements. The various Bremont Terra Nova all use rebranded automatic movements running at 28,800 vph. It’s possible that the TBPR uses some modification of the “in-house” ENG300, but the price doesn’t reflect that, and it may also be a Sellita of some sort like the others. The power reserve is quoted at 38 hours for the Terra Nova 38 and 40.5 Date models, 41 hours for the TBPR, and 56 hours for the Chronograph. The movements are all concealed behind solid casebacks with a globe decoration.

Oris Aquis Date 41.5mm with Watermelon Dials

Summer is in the air, and the holiday season is just around the corner. As a brand that has never been shy of colour, Oris proposes two watermelon-coloured models for its versatile Aquis Date 41.5mm dive watch. Perfect for outdoor activities but smart enough to wear daily, the Oris Aquis Date collection was recently refreshed. The design tweaks applied to the Oris Aquis Date collection introduced at Watches & Wonders earlier this year result in a more refined profile and a more comfortable wearer experience.

While blue, green and black dials have been the predominant colours of the brand’s Aquis Date collection since its launch in 2011, Oris Aquis Date stretched the colour palette with an eye-popping cherry red version in 2021 along with a multi-coloured mottled upcycled plastic dial. A year later, the Aquis Date 36.5mm appeared with colourful mother-of-pearl dials in tandem with the Cotton Candy Divers Sixty-Five bronze trilogy with shocking pink, green and baby blue dials.
For summer 2024, Oris adopts the colour palette of juicy watermelons, the fruit we all associate with the hot summer months. Featuring watermelon green or red sunray-brushed dials, the impact of the colour is accentuated by the white ceramic bezels with green or red markings. The functional unidirectional rotating bezels benefit from the recent design upgrade and have been reproportioned. The shaper outline of the luminescent Alpha hour and minute hands and shield-shaped hour markers also correspond to the aesthetic tweaks. However, one of the most significant design changes regarding the date window has not been incorporated here. Unlike the new Aquis 41.5mm models with date apertures matching the dial colour, these summer models have white backgrounds. The 300m water-resistant case flaunts its slightly slimmer profile of 12.9mm (formerly 13.3mm), shorter and more ergonomic lugs and tapering crown guards. Brushed and polished surfaces highlight the case’s construction, and the new stainless steel bracelet with redesigned links, broader brushed central links and a more tapering profile enhances comfort. Exposed through mineral glass caseback is Oris Aquis Date 733 calibre (Sellita SW200-1 base) with its signature red rotor. Beating at a frequency of 28,800vph, this automatic movement delivers a moderate power reserve of 38 hours. However, the movement is equipped with a stop-seconds device for precision time setting.

BREMONT Supermarine 300M Date

Back in 2010, Bremont introduced the Supermarine 500, which introduced a fresh take on a pretty well-trod path: the dive watch. Its unique crown guard, sapphire bezel, signature Bremont three-piece “Trip-Tick” case, and overall styling set it apart from the pack. It quickly became a favorite of dive watch lovers. Then, in 2014, came the Supermarine 2000, which quadrupled the water resistance, introduced the anti-magnetic and anti-shock properties of Bremont’s MB watches, and beefed up the case from 43mm to 45mm. The S2000 is an exercise in sheer overkill in every respect, a watch that will survive things no human wearing it ever could, something many who buy the watch appreciate.

But for many, 45mm, or even 43mm, is too large for a watch, even a diver. So at last week’s “Basel-upon-Thames” event in London, Bremont released new additions to the bremont supermarine 300m date lineup – the Type 300 and Type 301 – both with an all-new 40-millimeter case.
Bremont has always leaned hard on the aviation angle, owing to the company’s founders’ passion for flying. So even the brand’s dive watches take their name from the British company that built many legendary airplanes — Supermarine. The name Type 300 references the name given to the prototype Spitfire fighter that Supermarine built in the 1930s in advance of World War II. The new watches share the same case, which is 40mm of hardened stainless steel with the familiar three-part construction for which Bremont is known. They’re slimmed down considerably too, at 13mm from the top of the domed sapphire crystal to the rear of the solid screw-down caseback. The smaller size should improve wearability, as the S500 and S2000 are both heavy, tall leviathans. Of course, with the smaller size comes less water resistance. But 300 meters is more than adequate for scuba diving. bremont supermarine 300m also wisely edited out the helium release valve from the case, a nod to its more recreational purpose.
Instead of sapphire bezels, the new watches now sport unidirectional ratcheting ceramic timing rings, in either black or blue respectively, matching the two dial versions available. (The blue bezel on the prototype we were shown is not the final iteration and will be more closely matched to the dial on the final production models, we were told.)
The dials themselves are markedly new as well. The “corduroy” texture from the bigger Supermarines is gone, and on the Type 300, Arabic numeral are used at six, nine, and 12, with rectangular hashes replacing the large round markers of the S500 and S2000. The black dial version has faux “gilt” accents for the Bremont logo and minute track while the blue dial version sticks with white markings. The latter’s blue is reminiscent of the shimmering sunburst blue used on the blue version of Bremont’s U2 pilot’s watch, and it catches light beautifully.
The Type 301 has a more vintage-inspired style, with painted (not applied) dots and hashes and an upside-down arrowhead at 12 that, all tinted with luminescent paint meant to mimic old tritium. Sure, it might remind one of a classic Submariner in more ways than one, but Bremont is hardly the first to follow this legible convention. The dial and bezel of the Type 301 are more matte in finish than those on the Type 300, and they almost look a faded grey from certain angles.

All dials have red accents in the bremont supermarine 300m name, the sweep hand tip, and the “60” on the minute track of the Type 300. The day display of the other Supermarines is gone in favor of a white-on-black date wheel on all watches. Hands are slightly different from those on earlier Supermarines — here they’re modified swords without the round tip on the hour hand.
The Type 300 and 301 make use of a chronometer-certified, Bremont-modified self-winding ETA 2892 movement that here is called the BE-92AE. Though not in-house, in a tool diver with a solid caseback I would argue this is not terribly important, and bremont supermarine 300m does re-test its movements after they return from COSC certification and are cased up.

The watches are all available on a 20mm stainless steel bracelet, a calf leather strap, or a striped nylon NATO-style strap, with the blue Type 300 also having a blue rubber option. The nylon strap is thicker than most of the $15 aftermarket ones available and has a bit of a smooth shine to it, not unlike that found on the NATOs available from Omega.
Nick English explained that his and his brother Giles’s preference runs more to leather straps on watches, but obviously on a diver they felt that offering a steel bracelet was wise. The bracelet is of high quality and looks sharp, but the clasp is a simple two-button release with no dive extension or security latch. My opinion is that the leather is the way to wear these watches unless you’re getting them wet (in which case you can substitute nylon or rubber).

My personal impression is that these watches look better on the wrist and in person than in photos. The size is predictably good and though the more conventional designs aren’t as distinctively Bremont as the Supermarine 500 and 2000, the Trip-Tick case profile separates the Type 300 and 301 from the rest of the diver herd.
Pricing for the Type 300 and Type 301 is $4,095 on either strap and $4,695 on the bracelet. This pricing draws obvious comparisons to other high quality divers out there, such as Tudor’s Black Bay family. And while value judgments with luxury watches are largely subjective and a futile exercise, these watches do stack up well with others in the vicinity. I’ve dived many times with a Bremont Supermarine 2000 and can vouch for its robustness in its intended environment and I suspect the new Type 300 and 301 will perform similarly. And at 40mm, the new ones should be more friendly for terrestrial pursuits too.

BELL & ROSS BR-X5 Black Titanium

When Bell & Ross launched the BR-X5 in 2022, the watch marked one of the pinnacle works by the brand. Featuring an avante-garde interpretation of the brand’s familiar circle-in-square aesthetic, alongside an integrated case-and-bracelet and a compelling dial, the watch served as a distinct elevation of the brand’s familiar and fan-loved motifs. Last week at Watches and Wonders 2024, the brand once again revisits the design, introducing its latest in the new Bell & Ross BR-X5 Black Titanium.
The watch itself is familiar in general composition, though subtler in tone and style as compared to previous iterations of the watch— which have thus far included light blue, full lume, and orange-touched editions. It measures 41 by 12.8mm on the wrist, featuring a grade 2 titanium construction with a microblasted finishing that provides it with a darkened, matte look. Machined sides and the integrated style connecting the watch to a matching titanium or rubber strap attach the watch in the collection, while the classic square look of the case proper holds it true to Bell & Ross.
The dial of the model is— like the case— a familiar execution of the BR-X5, distinguishing itself via a semi-monochromatic black with white Super-Luminova details. Applied ovular hour marks serve for most of the indices, with a matching handset indicating the running time. An aviation-inspired date window provides some daily utility towards the 3 o’clock position, while a large power reserve scale sits at its opposite at the 9 o’clock. Inside, the Bell & Ross BR-CAL.323 provides the power, with the automatic movement capable of a 70-hour reserve.

BELL & ROSS BR 05 Black Ceramic

In watchmaking, lightweight and highly resistant ceramic has become a favourite material, embraced by most brands, such as Bell & Ross. Renowned for its extensive use in the aerospace industry, ceramic is a highly technical substance that aligns seamlessly with Bell & Ross’s design philosophy rooted in aviation. Inspired by aircraft instrument panels, the brand naturally gravitates towards offering timepieces crafted in ceramic, with a particular affinity for the distinctive aesthetic of black ceramic.
While black ceramic has been a staple in various B&R collections, it had yet to take centre stage in the BR 05 series, launched in 2019 and aimed to provide Bell & Ross enthusiasts with timepieces in the popular steel integrated bracelet sports category while retaining the signature design language of the iconic BR 03 collection. Now, we gladly introduce a trio of new and captivating models: BR 05 Black Ceramic, BR 05 Skeleton Black Ceramic, and BR 05 Skeleton Black Lum Ceramic, just unveiled at the Watches and Wonders 2024 event in Geneva.
As we anticipate the addition of models with various functions to the BR05 Black Ceramic line in the future, the models unveiled today consist of a time-and-date reference and two skeleton three-handers, sharing many common features.

The square case of the new BR05 Black Ceramic series measures 41mm in width and 11.2mm in thickness, slightly larger – by 1mm than other similar BR05 references in the collection. Bruno Belamich, the Creative Director and co-founder of Bell & Ross, elaborated on this decision. The black colour tends to visually shrink objects, prompting an adjustment in the case dimensions to maintain the pieces’ powerful presence.
The BR 05 Black Ceramic and BR 05 Skeleton Black Ceramic boast a combination of satin-finishing and polishing. At the same time, the BR 05 Skeleton Black Lum Ceramic flaunts a matte surface achieved through sandblasted ceramic, offering a sportier and crisper appearance. All models feature a water resistance of 100m, a screw-down crown flanked by guards for protection, and sapphire crystal on both the front (with AR coating) and back. The dials mark the key distinctions among the three new references. The BR 05 Black Ceramic, featuring a time and date display, boasts a glossy black sunburst dial. Rhodium-plated skeletonized hands and baton indices, filled with white Super-LumiNova, emit a green glow in the dark. White-printed numerals accompany indices at 12, 6, and 9 o’clock, while the aperture at 3 o’clock showcases a white date on a black-coloured disc. The brand’s logo and indications of automatic movement and Swiss-made origin complete the dial-side information. In contrast, the BR 05 Skeleton Black Ceramic presents a transparent, black-tinted dial adorned with applied baton indices filled with Super-LumiNova. The 12 o’clock position features a double index. The hands maintain uniformity across the series – skeletonized and luminescent for hours and minutes and rhodium-plated for seconds. Through the dial, rhodium-plated movement components discreetly peep out, preserving Bell & Ross’s favoured stealth-like aesthetic.
Lastly, the BR 05 Skeleton Black Lum Ceramic’s semi-transparent dial is crafted from black smoked sapphire crystal. The applied indices are treated with C5 Super-LumiNova, appearing green in daylight and low-light conditions. The rhodium-plated skeletonized hands receive a touch of the same high-shine green luminescent material, ensuring visibility in all lighting environments. For timekeeping, the time-and-date BR05 Black Ceramic utilizes the automatic calibre BR-CAL.321 (based on the Sellita SW-300) with approximately 54 hours of power reserve. The oscillating weight, adorned with decorative elements, is visible through the sapphire crystal caseback. On the other hand, the two Skeleton references employ the calibre BR-CAL.322, boasting similar characteristics, including 54-hour autonomy and a frequency of 28,800 vibrations/hour.The BR 05 Black Ceramic and BR 05 Skeleton Black Ceramic are permanent additions to the collection. They come with an integrated matching bracelet and a black rubber strap, each secured with a steel folding buckle. In contrast, the BR 05 Skeleton Black Lum Ceramic is a limited edition of 500 pieces and exclusively features an integrated black matte ceramic bracelet. Pricing details are yet to be confirmed and will be updated during the W&W fair (expect starting prices of about 6K euros).

Chopard Launches Mille Miglia GTS Automatic Chrono California Mille 33rd Edition

For the sixth consecutive year, Chopard proudly served as the Official Timekeeper of the 33rd annual California Mille, which took place last month from April 21 to 25. Inspired by the original Italian Mille Miglia open road race from Brescia to Rome (of which Chopard has also been a global sponsor since 1988), the California Mille is a 1,000-mile, four-day excursion through Southern California’s most scenic destinations. To mark the occasion, the Swiss brand unveiled the new Mille Miglia GTS Automatic Chrono California Mille 33rd Edition, a chronometer-certified timepiece in Lucent Steel with numerous references to the legendary Italian endurance rally that enthusiasts effectively call “La Corsa Pùi Bella del Mondo,” the most beautiful race in the world. Typical of the collection, the watch exudes a very elegant yet functional elegance that evokes the spirit of the 1960s.
The C.O.S.C.-chronometer certified self-winding chronograph is clad into Chopard’s genuine steel alloy Lucent steel and water-resistant to 100 meters. Presented with a diameter of 44mm, it is equipped with mushroom-style chronograph pushers engraved with a knurled pattern and a ratcheted crown to ensure good grip and facilitate use.

The luminescent beige dial with green and red racing stripes and the California Mille logo has a textured finish that serves as a beautiful backdrop for the snailed small seconds and chronograph sub dials and the date window at 3 o’clock.

The watch face is framed by a thin and slender green bezel bearing a tachymeter scale. Its contrasting white transferred graduations serve to measure average speed ranging from 60 to 400 km/h by means of the chronograph sweep-seconds hand. The case back is closed and bears a “USA Limited Edition 25” engraving. The Mille Miglia GTS Automatic Chrono California Mille 33rd Edition is fitted with a brown calfskin strap lined with rubber. In keeping with the codes established at the launch of the Mille Miglia collection, the lining is patterned like the tread of 1960s Dunlop Racing tires.
On April 21, 2024, over 70 classic cars manufactured pre-1958 began their four-day excursion covering over 1,000 miles through some of Southern California’s most scenic routes as part of the 33rd edition of the California Mille. For the sixth year in a row, Chopard served as the Official Timekeeper of the rally, which began in La Jolla and ended at Westlake Village in Los Angeles, with the journey taking drivers through Rancho Mirage, Lake Arrowhead, Pasadena, and Valencia. This is also the sixth time Chopard has released a watch for the race; this year’s edition is the Chopard Mille Miglia GTS Automatic Chrono California Mille 33rd Edition watch, which marries details from both the Italian Mille Miglia and its Californian counterpart.
The link between cars and watches is a personal one for Karl-Friedrich Scheufele, Chopard Co-President. He has a passion for classic cars, and it was under his leadership that Chopard became the world partner and official timekeeper of the 1000 Miglia in 1988. As he puts it, “Lovers of fine cars often have a great weakness for precious timepieces, and vice versa. Extreme precision and sporting elegance are important in both these fields.” The Chopard team entered the 2024 California Mille with a vintage blue Porsche 1957 356A (T2) Speedster, a.k.a “Bluebelle,” on loan from the incredible Ingram Collection.

Patek Philippe Sonnerie Minute Repeater Only Watch

Earlier this week, Patek Philippe announced their official entry for Patek Philippe Sonnerie Minute Repeater Only Watch 2023 (now being held May 10, 2024). The new watch, a ref. 6301A, features a grande et petite sonnerie and minute repeater with a grande feu enamel dial, all cased in steel, one of the rarest metals for a complicated Patek.
Last year’s delay in the Only Watch auction resulted in several brands pulling out but also had add-on effects for the brands that stuck around. Some smaller brands use Patek Philippe Sonnerie Minute Repeater Only Watch as a chance to test new ideas for future releases and need the positive press of massive auction results to prove the value of their eventual serial production. Patek, however, decided they’d rather not wait. Instead of holding off on launching production of their Only Watch release-based series, they just moved forward with it anyway and announced the 30-piece limited series of the ref. 1938 Minute Repeater Alarm last November. The watch felt very unusual compared to past Pateks, with a grand feu enamel portrait of Philippe Stern on the dial. This new watch feels much more “Patek.”
As is always the case with Patek Philippe Sonnerie Minute Repeater Only Watch , the new 6301A is a unique version of Patek’s grande et petite sonnerie and minute repeater, featuring the manually wound caliber GS 36-750 PS IRM movement seen through the exhibition caseback, which strikes three gongs. The watch is cased in steel, one of the most ideal metals for a chiming watch (denser materials like gold or platinum deaden the sound), measuring 44.8mm by 12.03mm thick. As far as I can tell, this is the first time Patek has done a standalone grande et petite sonnerie watch (the only other I can think of is their record-setting Only Watch Grandmaster Chime). That means the watch strikes the quarters and hours in grande sonnerie mode or only the hours if set to petite sonnerie. The watch also features a silence and can chime the time on demand with the minute repeater triggered by a monopusher-style button in the crown.
The movement measures a very compact 37mm by 7.5mm thick while still housing two mainspring barrels that impart 72 hours of power reserve for the movement and 24 hours for the strikeworks. That extra power allows the watch to complete all 1056 strikes from the sonnerie over 24 hours. The movement also features jumping small seconds (also known as deadbeat seconds).
The dial is capped with a Rare Handcrafts dial with hand-guilloché swirling pattern with Grand Feu blue-green enamel similar to the newest version of the Cathedral Gongs minute repeater ref. 5178G. The dial is set with 12 baguette-cut diamond hour markers (0.45ct worth of diamonds). The power reserve indicators for the movement and the strikework features transfer-printed “Only One” along their edge. In all, it’s an eye-catch piece from the brand and one that feels more harmonious with other releases they’ve done in the past, and while it won’t come anywhere near breaking the record of the steel Grandmaster Chime, it’s a watch I certainly would love to see in the metal. Patek Philippe Sonnerie Minute Repeater Only Watch

Patek Philippe Aquanaut 5164G

Ibet most people have a watch they’ve convinced themselves they’re going to have one day, no matter how out of reach it might always be. The Patek ref. 5164 has long been my white whale. Like James Stacey, I’m a lover of a versatile GMT, and the Aquanaut is – in my opinion – the king.
When I wrote about the discontinuation of the ref. 5164A, I called it a “fan-favorite.” That might be a bit much to say about a watch that cost over $40,000 and was nearly completely unobtainable by anyone but VIPs at Patek, but it was a great watch to imagine wearing and even better if you could actually get lucky enough to own one. The cool design, comfortable strap, and the sporty specs (from water-resistance to steel case) and black colorway all made it the pinnacle of “quiet luxury” before quiet luxury was a thing.

There’s an elegance to the Patek Philippe Aquanaut Travel Time, which hasn’t changed with the new ref. 5164G. I wear my Rolex GMT-Master II almost every time I travel, but there’s something so cool about the tactile experience of using the pushers on the left-hand side of the case. While it’s relatively easy to use a “flyer” GMT to set your new timezone (unscrew the crown and pull out to the appropriate position to jump the hour forward or back), there’s nothing like using the pushers on the ref. 5164. The top pusher advances the hour hand by one hour for each click, while the bottom takes the hour back. Either way, a skeletonized hour hand keeps tracking your home time but hides, uncluttering the dial wh Two apertures track day or night in the home and local time zone (blue for night, white for day). It’s a beautiful symmetrical watch with the date on a subdial at 6 o’clock. This type of design has a long history at Patek, dating back to the early 1960s with the ref. 2597 Travel Time Calatrava. As James Stacey mentioned in his Hands-On with the 5164R in 2019, the movement in the 2597 originated from the mind of Louis Cottier – the father of the worldtime – which means that any ref. 5164 follows in an important linage of creativity. But the bold design and sportiness of the Patek Philippe Aquanaut Travel Time is probably far beyond what Cottier could have ever imagined. While the ref. 5164A is no longer available, Patek’s choice to continue the long-running reference with another new version in precious metal was somewhat predictable. I had hoped that Patek would introduce a new Aquanaut Travel Time with a new reference in steel. It would have likely been the biggest release of Watches & Wonders in a quiet year like this, but it wouldn’t have been in line with the brand’s decision to avoid steel sports models for now.

It also wouldn’t have made much sense as the Patek Philippe Aquanaut Travel Time ref. 5164 remained in the catalog in rose gold, so two generations of watches being in the catalog together was unlikely. The new white gold version brings back a white-metal option to the catalog, using the same caliber 26‑330 S C FUS movement, so yes, this is mostly a case metal and dial/strap color change. But it also changes how the watch wears on the wrist. The Aquanaut Travel Time continues to be one of the most comfortable-wearing sports watches on the market, with a great custom-cut rubber strap and a deployant clasp. The case still measures a slim 10.2mm thick with a 40.8mm measurement from 2 to 8 o’clock. The lugs also drop down nicely to hug the wrist. But in gold, the watch starts to feel top-heavy, a problem with many precious metal sports watches on straps instead of bracelets – that heavy case material can throw off the balance. It also means that Patek has reduced the sportiness of the watch in another, more practical way, with the water resistance now down to 30m from 120m from the 5164A. This is not just a change for the 5164G but also an updated specification for the 5164R and all other Aquanuat and Nautilus models. Either metal came with a display caseback, but unfortunately, the new water resistance makes me a little more hesitant to imagine taking the Aquanaut into – well – the aqua. However, the question of fit and balance is a personal preference, just like the new dial color. While Rolex has a penchant for giving options on options of colors to fit different customers’ preferences, that’s not the path Patek likes to take. Just like their confidence in the materials they want to use (customer demand be damned), they also have a strong design sense. After a few quiet years of releases, I would have imagined Patek would have wanted the “pop” of hype that would have come with releasing a “khaki” Aquanaut Travel Time in white gold or something bolder in platinum. But, there’s probably something to be said for Patek trying to continue to cool demand. Prices for the 5164A have slowly decreased, not to retail, but it’s a start.

Instead, we got the opaline blue-gray dial, embossed Aquanaut pattern, and white gold case and a $63,040 price tag. Based on the photos, I was afraid the dial would be too light blue to be wearable for someone like me who likes something more low-key. While it’s not the classic 5164A I’ve dreamed of for years, it seems darker in person and shifts with the light. That means it feels like it could be a decent daily wear option if you’re so lucky. It will be a bit longer before I get the Aquanaut Travel Time of my dreams. While it’s not the watch I wanted to see, it’s the one we’ve got. Undoubtedly, the 5164G will stick around for a while to continue on the now 13-year run of the reference (the longest-lived reference in the catalog, I believe). It seems unlikely that Patek would kill a new release just to introduce a brand-new model one year later. In the meantime, plenty of people will enjoy the new 5164G. To steal a line from James, it remains my pick for the coolest modern Patek Philippe. I’ll still keep my dream of an Aquanaut Travel Time in steel, but this is the watch I need right now, while I save up a bit more for the day that Patek brings back my white whale. For more information on the new Patek Philippe Aquanaut Travel Time ref. 5164G, including complete specs, read our “Introducing” post or visit Patek Philippe’s website.

Patek Philippe Nautilus chronograph 5980

Although its absence from the brand’s lineup may have been brief, the Patek Philippe Nautilus chronograph reference 5980’s presence has been sorely missed in the collection since it was quietly discontinued in early 2024. As part of its Watches and Wonders 2024 novelties, however, Patek Philippe brings this popular chronograph complication back to the Nautilus family with a unique blend of refinement and casual cool. The new Patek Philippe Nautilus reference 5980-60G brings back the unique stacked, concentric subdial layout of previous Nautilus chronographs, but combines this with a relaxed blue colorway and an offbeat denim-effect strap.
Measuring 40.5mm wide and 12.2mm thick, the Patek Philippe Nautilus reference 5980-60G’s 18k white-gold case is, from a design perspective, pure classic Nautilus. The layout should be instantly familiar to enthusiasts, with the same broad chamfered bezel, porthole-inspired case side flanges, and smoothly elegant integrated lugs as the rest of the Nautilus collection. Naturally, the largest difference from the mainline Nautilus case design is the inclusion of chronograph pushers at 2 o’clock and 4 o’clock. Broad and subtly rounded, the polished oval pushers add a new source of flash to an already bright and eye-catching case design. Patek Philippe tops off the case with a sapphire display caseback, as well. Given the Nautilus line’s sporting, aquatic pretensions, it’s difficult to judge the reference 5980-60G’s miniscule 30-meter water resistance rating as anything but disappointing.
Like the case, the dial design of the Patek Philippe Nautilus reference 5980-60G should be familiar to fans of the brand. The classic Nautilus dial layout is broadly preserved here, with sleek paddle hands, angled applied indices, and a horizontally slatted “teak deck” dial surface. Rather than the deep, oceanic blue usually used for the Nautilus series, this new model uses a more muted, denim-inspired blue dial hue in images for a fresher, more relaxed look. The unique concentric subdial design of previous 5980 models is refined and highlighted here, gathering both chronograph hours and chronograph minutes into a single tightly packaged display at 6 o’clock. Crucially, though, this model ditches the two-tone display of previous blue 5980 references for a cleaner all-blue subdial layout, featuring tight azurage, airy white scales, and elemental stick hands for both subdial displays. Overall, it’s a simpler, more visually open layout than many of its predecessors, but one that still feels instantly at home in the brand’s catalog.
Patek Philippe powers the Nautilus reference 5980-60G with the manufacture Caliber CH 28-520 C/522 automatic flyback chronograph movement. The Calibre CH 28-520 C/522 offers robust if unspectacular performance, with a 55-hour power reserve at a 28,800 bph beat rate. In terms of finishing, this movement is contemporary and handsome in images, with circular Côtes de Genève across the semi-skeleton bridges and balance cock, polished anglage, oversized perlage on the mainplate, and an engraved 21K gold rotor with matching circular Côtes de Genève.
The new strap design added to the Patek Philippe Nautilus reference 5980-60G arguably steals the show for this release. Attached to the case via the line’s classic polished rectangular integrated center links, this calfskin strap accurately captures the texture and color variations of heavily worn denim in photos. Equipping a strap inspired by faded blue jeans to a watch as formal and traditionally Swiss as Patek Philippe might seem like an odd pairing at first glance, but this more laid-back approach has its own sort of charm in images and matches the dial colorway splendidly.
The reference 5980 Patek Philippe Nautilus chronograph may have enjoyed a brief retirement in early 2024, but for Watches and Wonders the Patek Philippe Nautilus reference 5980-60G brings this fan-favorite layout back to life in a charismatically casual new style.

Patek Philippe 5330G World Time

To a certain type of person, Patek Philippe is world timers and world timers are Patek Philippe. While Patek didn’t invent the complication, it’s become strongly associated with the brand over the decades, in large part because of well-executed references like the new Patek Philippe 5330G World Time.
Patek introduced the 5330G at last year’s Tokyo Grand Exhibit as a limited edition of 300 and only for the Japanese market. Now, it’s bringing the new World Time reference to its general catalog with an opaline blue-grey dial. The carbon pattern in the center of the dial calls to mind the 6007A Calatrava introduced to celebrate the opening of its new manufacture in 2020.
The Patek Philippe 5330G World Time is powered by the new Patek caliber 240 HU C, which Patek introduced in last year’s LE. It’s a world timer with 24-hour day/night indication for each time zone, but it’s most notable for being the first world time that has a date that faithfully tracks the local (i.e., 12-hour) time. According to Patek, it’s done this while adding less than a millimeter of thickness to the caliber. It’s the type of practical mechanical innovation that Patek continues to do as well as any manufacturer, in particular in its world and travel time watches. The caliber 240 is an automatic movement that beats at 3 Hz and has a 38-48-hour power reserve.
The white gold case measures 40 x 11.57mm. It’s well proportioned and wears thin on the wrist, exactly what you want from the dressier side of Patek. The lugs are compact and keep the 5330G wearable, even given its slightly larger diameter. The round case and stepped lugs feel heritage inspired, appropriate for a classic complication like a world timer.

While the Japanese limited edition had a guilloché purple dial that was certainly an acquired taste, the main catalog 5330G plays it down the middle with a blue-grey opaline. The textured carbon pattern in the middle of the dial contrasts with the smooth world timer rings. A glass date pointer that’s tipped with red feels like a considered touch.
Somewhat provocatively, Patek has paired a denim-style calfskin strap with the Patek Philippe 5330G World Time , just as it has with the updated 5980G. For awhile, we’ve been saying it wouldn’t hurt brands like Patek to deliver its modern dressier watches on something besides the oh-so-formal alligator, so I like seeing something new from Patek. As we mentioned on the first Watches & Wonders episode of Hodinkee Radio, it calls to mind the brown denim-adjacent strap on AP’s Travis Scott collab.

A Patek world timer isn’t going to set the world on fire. It’s simply Patek doing what it’s always done, just making it about 10 percent better – in this case, that means a practical innovation that makes the watch just that much more usable. But the Patek Philippe 5330G World Time is a well executed, modern take on an old-school complication, and that’s exactly the type of thing we like to see from Patek Philippe.