Oris unveiled a new stainless steel version of its retro Oris Divers Sixty-Five collection today.
With a case size of 40 mm x 12.8 mm, with a lug width of 20 mm, the Divers Sixty-Five is well-sized, and with an outsourced Sellita movement inside — as opposed to the in-house caliber 400 that powers the recently released Oris Divers Sixty-Five — the price is more accessible.
Most notably, this new version of the Divers Sixty-Five has a gradient gray dial, with applied turquoise-filled luminous indices. The dial is kept clean with no date, just the hours, minutes, and seconds hands. An outsourced 4Hz 26-jewel Sellita automatic movement with 38-hours of power reserve drives the three-hand display.
A domed sapphire with an interior anti-reflective coating protects the dial. A screw-in steel caseback and a screw-down crown protect the other case openings, along with gaskets. The water-resistance rating is 100 meters.
The Oris Divers Sixty-Five 2021 40 mm comes on either a black leather strap with stainless steel buckle or a multi-piece stainless steel bracelet with a folding clasp. The retail price is $2,200 on a strap and $2,400 on a bracelet.
We love the Oris Divers Sixty-Five dive watch and have envisioned a special edition that maximizes classic appeal and versatility without compromising the adventurous and sporting nature of a great dive watch. For the Oris Divers Sixty-Five Limited Edition for , we fitted the 40mm steel case with a faded grey bezel and a soft black dial with printed markers. Balanced with a no-date execution, a hand-wound movement, a slimmer case profile, and a production of just 250 units, the Oris Divers Sixty-Five Limited Edition for and manages to capture the charm inherent to the best vintage dive watches, allowing it to easily ride the wave from the surf to the office – and wherever you go in between.
Be it above or below the surface, a dive watch truly worth its salt should be ready for anything. Indeed, the best of the breed boasts a compelling mix of go-anywhere ability and always-on-your-wrist versatility. In wanting to create a focused, stylish, and incredibly easy-wearing sport watch, we turned to Oris, a privately-owned Swiss brand that has been offering strong and sporty design since their inception in 1904.
Based in Hölstein, Switzerland, Oris produces exclusively Swiss mechanical watches and the brand has carved an impressive niche among enthusiasts and sportsmen alike by creating tough, dependable, and eye-catching watches with a wide variety of sport and dress designs. Among Oris’s modern lineup, no model has better captured the enduring and rakish character of a classic dive watch than their vintage-inspired Divers Sixty-Five. Conceptualized as a modern iteration of a dive watch design that was originally created by Oris in 1965, the line has expanded to offer a wider range of legible and perfectly proportioned dive watches that manage a strong yet understated style that is not limited to the beach, the dive boat, or even the weekend.
A first for the modern Divers Sixty-Five lineup, this limited edition dive watch is also hand-wound. Using a specially-modified version of Oris’ caliber 730 based on the Sellita 210-1, not only does this custom execution offer the old-school interactive nature of a hand-winder, but the rotor-less movement also allows for a special thin caseback design. With a total thickness of 11.82mm (compared to 12.72mm on the standard model with the caliber 733), this low-profile caseback makes for an overall case design that is noticeably thinner than any other Divers Sixty-Five model.
The result is a new watch with a truly vintage wrist presence. Light, thin, and hand-wound, the Oris Divers Sixty-Five Limited Edition for HODINKEE is exactly the sort of dive watch we dreamed of creating with a fun-loving and accomplished Swiss brand like Oris.
Fitted to a tapering steel rivet-style bracelet, the Oris Divers Sixty-Five Limited Edition for capable, handsome, and entirely distinctive on wrist. Offering 100 meters of water resistance and a lovely bubble-domed anti-reflective sapphire crystal, wherever the current may take you, the Oris Divers Sixty-Five Limited Edition for HODINKEE is a dive watch that won’t seem the least bit out of place.
In striving to create a new watch with classic traits, we stuck to a less-is-more philosophy. The tone-on-tone color scheme is delightfully low-key while the printed markers and simple hand design ensure plenty of lume and strong legibility for any scenario. With all of these aspects coming together in a svelte steel case matched to a low-profile steel bracelet, the Oris Divers Sixty-Five Limited Edition for subtle, old-school, and definitely designed for those who love the casual do-anything appeal of a dive watch.
Divers are among the most popular watches on the market, if not the most popular, due to their highly robust builds and familiar aesthetic. As a result, the segment is highly competitive and brands now have to find fresh ways to draw interest to their references. Fully aware of this trend, Oris has really begun to shift things into fifth gear – creating new in-house calibers with longer power reserves and warranty coverage. Many were excited to see the new calibre 400 inside of the Oris Aquis Date Calibre 400 43.5mm, but today the brand is scaling it back a bit by introducing the Oris Aquis Date Calibre 400 41.5mm in three colours: blue, anthracite, and green..
The stainless-steel Oris Aquis Date Calibre 400 41.5mm is 2mm smaller in diameter than its 43.5mm predecessor, effectively becoming that much more comparable in size to a Black Bay Heritage or Rolex Submariner – both of which are 41mm. The 40-42mm size seems to have become the sweet spot for consumers when it comes to sports watches, so many will be pleased to have a more manageable configuration for the wrist. Unfortunately, Oris has not disclosed the thickness in the press release, but the previous generation Aquis Date 41.5mm with a Sellita movement is 13mm thick so it is safe to assume the new Oris Aquis Date Calibre 400 41.5mm should be around the same.
In terms of its case finish, we have the usual satin-brushed case with polished lugs that extend the mirror finishing throughout the shouldering links of the bracelet – its centre links satin-brushed throughout. As a dive watch, the Oris Aquis Date Calibre 400 41.5mm has a depth rating of 300 metres – it’s water resistance further secured with a screw-down crown protected by crown guards..
Framing each dial is a colour-matching ceramic timing bezel, well-knurled to make it grippable for the wearer’s wet hand. All three, blue, anthracite, and green, have a rich sunburst finish with a subtle psuedo-fume effect towards the darker outer edge of the minutes track. The hour indexes and hours, minutes, and central seconds hands are all filled with SuperLuminova
. The only missing hour index is at 6’ to make space for a white on black date disc that blends well into the darkened edges of each color dial. It should be noted that since the discontinuation of the Rolex “Hulk” Submariner the green variant of the Oris Aquis Date Calibre 400 41.5mm is a fantastic alternative to consider.
The Oris Aquis Date Calibre 400 41.5mm can be purchased on either a stainless-steel bracelet or black rubber strap, both outfitted with “Quick Strap Change” technology that allows you to quickly swap between the pair by simply depressing the underside trigger to detach it.. My advice: go for the bracelet. It is CHF 100 or $200 USD more than the rubber configuration, but it is safe to assume it would cost more than that to purchase the bracelet separately – or at the very least the rubber strap will be less expensive to purchase separately then the bracelet.
The main event with this introduction is the Calibre 400 making its way into a 41.5mm Aquis Date. To recap, the Oris Calibre 400 is an in-house movement with 120 hours (five days) of power reserve and its performance is backed by an extended 10-year warranty and 10-year service intervals. It is highly accurate as well, running within COSC tolerances at +5/-3 seconds per day. An interesting note about the Calibre 400 is that the twin barrels that provide the 120 hours of power reserve are positioned to look like ears, and when the rotor aligns just right it serves as a nose and mouth – the result being an Oris bear motif. Don’t believe me? Well fortunately you can see for yourself thanks to the screwed-down exhibition caseback.
Oris’ partnership with the iconic Swiss Air-Rescue Rega continues with a third limited-edition watch that flies even higher than before.
If it wasn’t for aviation, it’s possible the Swiss watch industry would never have taken off. Early pilots discovered a watch was a vital tool and turned to makers of Swiss pocket watches for tools they could refer to while helming their makeshift contraptions.
Oris, for its part, was making watches for those pioneer aviators as early as 1910. It has catalogs from the time in its archives showing pocket watches with cases decorated with Blériot-style aircraft. It was aviation that pushed Oris to develop its first wristwatches in 1917, and then in 1938, the Big Crown, a watch with an oversized crown created for gloved airmen. The model has been in constant production ever since and has become Oris’ signature design, fueling its reputation as the creator of ultra-reliable, ultra-precise tool watches for adventurous people.
Through the decades, Oris Rega Fleet Limited Edition has partnered with many leading organizations, military units and display teams linked to the world of aviation. These have made the company one of the first names in high-functioning pilot’s watches. Innovations such as the Worldtimer (with its push buttons that move the hour hand forwards and backwards in one-hour jumps) and the Big Crown ProPilot Altimeter have brought useful functions to the wrists of pilots (and plenty who aspire to be pilots) all over the world.
In 2016, Oris entered one of its proudest partnerships with Swiss Air-Rescue Rega. Rega has been offering an aeromedical service for almost seven decades and is recognized worldwide for its excellence and professionalism. Oris created a watch for Rega that year and again in 2018. Now, the company is delighted to announce a third piece. But this one’s different. Built to Rega’s specifications it’s a landmark collection of 21 limited-edition watches, one for each of its aircraft.
Rega, one of Switzerland’s proudest and most trusted organizations, was founded in 1952. It’s now patronized by almost half the Swiss population and is among the world’s most recognizable air rescue services, symbolized by its iconic red helicopters and crew members in their red uniforms.
Today, it serves as an integral part of the Swiss healthcare system, with 13 helicopter bases and a fleet of state-of-the-art aircraft. From these bases, Rega operates 18 rescue helicopters and can reach anywhere in the area it covers within 15 minutes of an emergency call. Each base has a crew of pilot, paramedic, and emergency flight physician ready to go, 24 hours a day, 365 days a year.
While it’s famous for its high-altitude mountain rescues, Rega’s service covers all medical emergencies, from road accidents to sudden illness, such as a cardiac arrest. Last year, Rega also repatriated more than 750 patients back home to Switzerland, either by one of its three ambulance jets, or scheduled passenger aircraft. Rega says its mission is to “provide assistance wherever a person’s life or health can be preserved or protected through our intervention.”
During the pandemic, the organization’s role has become even more significant. In 2020, it organized more than 16,000 missions and brought medical assistance by air to 11,000 people in distress. Thanks to previous investments made in patient isolation units, it also repatriated 140 Covid-19 patients on board its ambulance jets.
To this day, Oris Rega Fleet Limited Edition remains a privately run, non-profit organization funded by a patronage system, whereby private individuals make regular contributions to the running of the service. At last count, it had more than 3.6 million patrons.
Oris is extremely proud to partner Rega and to have worked with its teams to produce 21 limited-edition watches, each a series of 100 pieces carrying a caseback engraved with one of the service’s 21 aircraft: Airbus Helicopters H145, AgustaWestland Da Vinci, and Bombardier Challenger 650.
Before designing the Big Crown ProPilot Rega Fleet L.E., Oris turned to Rega’s staff and invited them to take part in a series of workshops where they asked them a simple question: what do you need in a wristwatch?
They told Oris a number of things: they liked watches that had clean, ultra-legible dials that they can read in a split second; they wanted a watch that wouldn’t reflect light – no glare; and they needed a watch with two tools – a GMT function for recording logbook times and a pulsometer that could serve as back-up to electronic machines that measure patients’ heart rates. That the watch should be robust, accurate and entirely reliable was a given.
So Oris built them the Oris Big Crown ProPilot Rega Fleet L.E. Its black dial has high-contrast white hands and numerals filled with high-grade Super-LumiNova. Its stainless steel case and Oris-patented ‘Lift’ clasp are coated in anti-reflective gunmetal grey PVD. It has a clearly indicated second time zone. And engraved into its bi-directional rotating bezel are a red triangle for timing the “golden hour” (the first hour after injury during which a patient’s chances of recovery are highest), and a pulsometer scale, read off with a white- tipped central seconds hand. Oris then added leather and rubber straps with its quick-change system.
But there was more. One pilot had an idea to link watches to individual aircraft to reflect the close bond crews and patients often develop with them. So Oris created 21 different casebacks, each engraved with the outline of a Rega aircraft and its registrations. Only 100 of each will be made, making this the broadest but also most limited collection of pilot’s watches the brand has ever conceived.
For these special watches, Oris also created a water-resistant red Ventile pouch, complete with a second quick-change strap in hygienic, easy-clean red rubber and a tool for changing the clasp. The pouch has several elastic straps for tweezers, plasters, and bandages so it can be upgraded to a pocket first aid kit. As a package, it’s the most collaborative watch Oris has ever made.
Following up on last year’s inaugural “Holstein Edition” timepiece, an all- bronze version of its popular Divers Sixty-Five chronograph, Oris has unveiled the latest in its limited series of watches paying tribute to the Swiss village of its founding. The Big Crown Holstein Edition 2021 provides a novel take on Oris’s vintage-inspired Big Crown model, first produced in 1938.
Oris Big Crown Hölstein Edition 2021
Notably, it is the first Oris watch to contain a variation of the widely acclaimed, in-house Caliber 400 movement that is not a dive watch or a diver-style watch. Oris, has in fact, had a dive-watch-heavy year thus far, expanding its flagship, vintage-inspired, and professional lines over the last several months. The release of this second Holstein Edition indicates the brand is likely to continue the tradition of offering highly limited, exclusive models throughout its various product families in the years to come.
The sword hands and non-fluted bezel are new to the Big Crown collection.
The watch’s 38-mm, polished and brushed steel case, as with previous Big Crown models, appears to be well proportioned and geared toward a wide audience of enthusiasts. However, the new model does features some notable differences from the rest of the collection, including a smooth rather than a fluted bezel, and a flatter crystal over the dial as opposed to the domed crystal more often used on this and other Oris models. These changes, in addition to the watch’s signature oversized crown and traditional case shape, help provide the watch with an overall sportier feel — channeling more of a field watch style than the aviation-inspired style of the watch’s actual origins.
Red details contrast with the gray dial.
Underneath the flat sapphire crystal is a matte gray dial, which carries on the neo-vintage tradition of the Big Crown. Around the outermost edge, a printed ring from 1 to 31 displays the analog date, each point indicated via a red-arrow-tipped hand. A step closer to the interior, a railroad track minute ring outlines the legible, straightforward Arabic hour markers. This style is broken up only at the 6 o’clock position where a small subdial for the running seconds rests, its indicator also accented with a burst of bright red. At the center of the dial and passing over the various descriptors toward 12 o’clock are two lume-filled, sword style hands, which differ quite drastically from the bold cathedral-style handset previously put to use within the Big Crown collection.
The Oris bear graces the caseback as a relief engraving.
The Oris Caliber 403, which powers the new limited edition, is based upon the aforementioned Caliber 400 launched by the brand last year inside the Aquis Date Caliber 400. Like the base caliber, the 403 boasts a five-day power reserve, a relatively high level of anti-magnetism, and an industry-leading 10-year warranty. The movement, which differs from its base by its use of a 6 o’clock small seconds subdial and an analog date indicator, is protected behind a solid, commemorative caseback, its surface engraved with a motif of Oris’s bear mascot.
Available now, the Oris Big Crown Hölstein Edition 2021 will be limited to 250 total editions, each marked at $3,900.
Oris continues its successful run with the Swiss Air-Rescue Rega, with a very Oris Rega Fleet Limited Edition. The privately run non-profit organisation, which was founded in 1952, operates a fleet of 21 aircraft. Last year was particularly busy for them, as they organised some 16,000 missions and provided assistance to 11,00 people and repatriated 140 Covid-19 patients via jet ambulance. Oris Rega Fleet Limited Edition honours the organisation with 21 Big Crown ProPilots, one for each vehicle in the Rega fleet.With 18 Airbus and AgustaWestland helicopters, Rega is well placed to support general and high altitude medical rescues and patient transfers across Switzerland. Their three Bombardier Challenger jets gives them a global capacity. And when it came to designing a watch to celebrate this fleet, Oris Rega Fleet Limited Edition turned to the people who fly, crew and support these aircraft. The feedback? An ultra-legible design, minimal glare, a GMT and a pulsometer.
Given this laundry list of specifications, it quickly became clear that the Big Crown ProPilot was the best fit. The 41mm GMT is a modern pilot’s watch with a clean aesthetic and peak legibility day or night. Add a GMT, and a pulsation bezel insert onto the utilitarian gunmetal grey steel watch, and you’ve got an instrument that’s up to the task. The final touch is the caseback. There are 21 designs, each linked to a specific craft engraved on the back (complete with registration), and 100 of each model will be made. We’re willing to bet that a percentage of these watches will end up on the wrists of people who work on Rega fleet, but even if you’ve never been involved in a Swiss air-rescue, it’s a very cool bit of kit.
Just released by Audemars Piguet are five new Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph in what was the collection’s original, and I believe best, case size of 42mm. Earlier this year, AP announced a refreshed version of the ROO Chronograph in a 43mm case with new in-house caliber 4401 movement and interchangeable straps. Now, we see these five new Royal Oak Offshore Chronographs in the smaller 42mm case get the same upgrade and refinements. Yes, that makes for a total of 10 new Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Chronographs this year. While I’ll focus on the brand new 42mm models here, I have added information on the larger 43mm collection, as well. And if it gets confusing, an easy way to differentiate is recognizing the horizontal (3,6,9) chronograph subdials on the 43mm and vertical (6,9,12) subdials on the 42mm.
All five new 42mm ROO Chronos have the new self-winding integrated flyback chronograph Calibre 4404 movement which is essentially identical to the Calibre 4401 seen in the 43mm models. The only difference between the two is that the 4401 has a horizontal (3,6,9) chronograph sub-dial layout while the 4404 has a vertical (6,9,12) sub-dial layout which requires an extra plate in the movement. An integrated column-wheel flyback chronograph with vertical clutch, the 4404 operates at 28,800 vph and has a 70-hour power reserve.
The two models that come on a strap both have the Méga Tapisserie dial, with the blue-dial version coming in a titanium case and the khaki-green version coming in a steel case. The remaining three have the more intricate Petite Tapisserie dial, and I have to say that the steel model with “night blue” dial is a fitting successor to the original Royal Oak Offshore Chronongraph AKA “the Beast.” The titanium model has a gray dial and the solid pink-gold model has the same “night blue” dial as the steel version.
All five of these Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Chronographs measure 42mm-wide and 15.2mm-thick with 100m of water resistance.
If you missed the news of the 43mm version, it was redesigned this year with a fresh case and slight refinements like larger polished chamfers on the case edges and more curves on the bezel, as well as chronograph pushers. Of the five 43mm versions released, three are done in steel cases with ceramic bezel (with dial colors in black, smoked light brown, and gray), one is done in an 18k pink-gold case with ceramic bezel and black dial, and one is in titanium with a blue dial and titanium bezel. All have Méga Tapisserie dials and come on an interchangeable rubber strap.
That’s a total of 10 new Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph models released in 2021, and this is just a warmup for AP. 2022 will mark the 50th anniversary of the classic Royal Oak, so the revamp of the sportier Offshore line is likely the tip of the iceberg. The new Calibre 4401 and 4404 movements, refined cases, and interchangeable straps make for a seriously improved Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph collection.
Audemars Piguet is introducing two new Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Chronograph models housed in a 42 mm case in either steel or titanium. The watches have a dial with a “Méga Tapisserie” motif and appear on rubber straps. However, with the interchangeable strap system, these can be replaced easily and quickly. Last but not least, the in-house calibre 4404 works inside, offering a column-wheel chronograph with flyback function. The two models are available now exclusively in the brand’s boutiques.
The Royal Oak Offshore 42 with steel or titanium case
The two chronographs appear in two different cases. One variant is housed in a stainless steel case and has a blue dial. The green variant, on the other hand, has a titanium case. However, the dimensions of 42 mm in diameter and 15.2 mm in height are the same. The pushers and screw-down crown have black rubber. On the back of the case, the sapphire crystal case back allows a view of the mechanics inside. In addition, both watches are water-resistant to 10 bar or 100 metres.
Dial with “Méga Tapisserie” motif
The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Chronograph 42 mm bears a dial with a “Méga Tapisserie” motif that appears in either blue or khaki. Above it are three counters in silver with black numerals or in black with orange numerals. At 12 o’clock, the hours are counted, while at 9 o’clock is a 30-minute totaliser. Below that, at 6 o’clock, the watchmakers place a small seconds. The time is indicated by Arabic numerals and Royal Oak hands of white gold with luminous coating. Last but not least are the applied AP initials and the date window with magnifying glass at 3 o’clock.
The Royal Oak Offshore and the Calibre 4404
The two new Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Chronograph are powered by the manufacture calibre 4404. The movement consists of 433 individual parts and offers an integrated chronograph. The latter uses a column wheel together with a vertical clutch, which enables instantaneous starting. In addition, the time measurement can be restarted immediately with the flyback function. A 22-carat rose gold rotor automatically winds the barrel to a power reserve of 70 hours. Through the sapphire crystal case back, the movement also catches the eye with its Geneva stripes, satin finishes and hand-polished edges.
The Royal Oak Offshore 42 with steel or titanium case
The watches also have the in-house quick-change system for the wristbands. By pressing the two pushers on the case bridge, the strap can be removed quickly and easily. The version with a blue dial comes on a blue rubber strap with a textured surface and an AP buckle. The green dial, on the other hand, comes with a textured khaki green rubber strap. In addition, the manufacture includes a strap made of black calfskin with both watches.
Breitling was a very popular brand when I just entered this field several years ago, at that time, many people bought replicas of Breitling Avenger, Navitimer and Seawolf from our watch market, there were no big manufacturers years ago, those people bought Breitling Top Time because the Avenger and Seawolf were really cloned so well, and their prices were not high. Nowadays, more and more powerful watch manufacturers joined in this industry, there are a lot of brand replica watches that are better than Breitling, so, replica Breitling watches were not that popular like before. However, in our market, each brand has their most iconic replica, so does Breitling, for example, its Avenger BlackBird from G factory is really good, and can also be equipped with Swiss ETA movement, so it becomes one of the best sellers. Besides the Avenger BlackBird, G factory also makes a lot of other Breitling replica watches, and some new Breitling is really worthy of our attention, like this Top Time Chronograph watch.
G factory, on many websites, it is called GF or GF factory, these names are all ok, the factory is famous for making great quality replica Breitling watches. This Breitling Top Time replica watch is a very good timepiece for gentleman, in overall look, it looks like a nice dress watch, but also with some sports characteristics. Round case is measured to be 41mm in diameter and 14.2mm in thickness, a little thick I think. The case back looks simple, a big word “ Breitling Top Time ” engraving is sand finished on smooth background. The design of the chronograph buttons makes them very convenient for the wearer to operate, but do not use them too often, even today’s A7750 has been improved several times, but I still think it is not as durable as other automatic movements.
The dial is interesting, the fan-shaped area where two small dials are located are like two eyes. The red color used on hands enhance the readability of the white dial. The small dial at 9 o’clock is for small seconds display, while its opposite subdial at 3 o’clock is for minute-chronograph display, there is a small red area on that subdial, I do not know what purpose it is used for, and the small red hand, what is it for? Like genuine watch, the round dots next to each stick hour markers are filled with luminous material, you will see strong green lume light in dark condition.
The band looks good, it is the style I like, the suede outside reminds me of Panerai’s ASSO leather band, it looks cool on the outside, while the back side that contacts your skin is Breitling’s iconic yellow leather, which could offers the wearer a great comfort, I love such design, if Breitling could offers more choices on watches bands, I want to buy more in future.
Cyrus Klepcys Vertical Skeleton Tourbillon
The Fascination of exclusive mechanics
After the launch of the “Klepcys Vertical Tourbillon” in 2018, the first model to feature a tourbillon complication in its range, the young and dynamic independent CYRUS Manufacture, based in Le Locle, is expanding its collection.
To mark Baselworld 2019, it is presenting a new version of its innovative timepiece designed for enthusiasts of high-end exclusive mechanics: the Cyrus Klepcys Vertical Skeleton Tourbillon.
Jean-François Mojon, the Manufacture’s technical director and inspirational master watchmaker, is the mastermind behind CYRUS creations. With this new timepiece, he has set out to renew the magic of the Klepcys Vertical Tourbillon, creating an interpretation that showcases the outstandingly innovative mechanism driving the watch. The tourbillon cage, placed in the middle of the dial for the first time, is set on a vertical axis at a 90° angle. Painstaking studies by the technical team at CYRUS revealed that this angle ensures the tourbillon cage is almost always in vertical position when on the wrist, thereby optimising its performance in precision.
Spectacular and refined, the new Cyrus Klepcys Vertical Skeleton Tourbillon allows fine watchmaking enthusiasts to dive right into the heart of the movement and enjoy the “dance” performed by its parts while reading off the retrograde time. Each element of the mechanism is finely finished and decorated, transforming it into an animated piece of exquisite craftsmanship.
All the visible elements on the “face” of the KLEPCYS VERTICAL SKELETON TOURBILLON are positioned in such a way that ensure the design is perfectly symmetrical, and are set out in a three-dimensional architecture which adds further depth.
The arched vertical bridge, inspired by Leonardo da Vinci’s self-supporting bridge, decorated using the “microbillage” technique features bevelled, polished edges and frames the tourbillon cage which performs one full rotation in one minute. It harmoniously divides the dial into two equal parts, making it easier to read off the retrograde hours and minutes. This original 3D structure is protected by a tailor-made sapphire crystal glass which is domed and anti-reflective, with a thickness of 1.2 mm.
To the right, a DLC black arch decorated with microbillage shows a scale running from 0 to 60 at 5-second intervals. It is embellished with a 4N gold or silver-finish edge, depending on the versions, and indicates the sweeping retrograde minutes with an exclusively sculpted hand. The left-hand arch in white Arabic numerals, which features the same finish as the minutes, marks the retrograde jumping hours. The seconds can be read off the tourbillon cage thanks to small numbered blocks, with the 60 seconds highlighted in red.
Between the two arches of the tourbillon bridge, a black DLC microbillé sphere with a 5mm diameter, set at 12 o’clock, catches the eye. It displays the days of the watch’s power reserve (1-4). To achieve a balanced effect, the CYRUS logo is set at 6 o’clock.
On observing the dial more closely, we can make out the star of the show (namely the tourbillon, the undisputed protagonist of our watch). It is almost as if it is gracefully twirling on a stage, interacting with a choreography of wheels, gears and hands that sinuously move in unison.
The upper part of the skeleton dial reveals two rhodium-plated barrels, decorated with the typical engraved triangular motifs we recognize in many CYRUS models. The bridges are microbillé with a dark grey NAC galvanic treatment, and the edges are bevelled and polished. The levers of the retrograde system are satin-polished and rhodium plated. The wheels are rhodium-plated and decorated with cerclage, the cams are mirror-polished. The jewels give a touch of colour to the finished item. Nothing has been left to chance!
Every component of the hand-winding manufacture movement, calibre CYR625, with a double barrel offering more than a 100-hour power reserve, has been painstakingly decorated to give the Klepcys Vertical Skeleton Tourbillon a sophisticated allure.
The “beating heart” of the KLEPCYS VERTICAL SKELETON TOURBILLON can also be seen from the case back. This reveals the masterful finish executed by the highly skilled master artisans at CYRUS. The grey-colored bridges, thanks to the NAC galvanic treatment, are decorated with a slightly curve sunray pattern and have a microbillé satin finish that contrasts with the polished finish of the edges. The two parallel barrels have black lacquered ratchet-wheels adorned with CYRUS’s signature propeller-like logo, whilst the screw heads are mirror-polished.
All this beauty is enclosed in a cushion-shaped case which has become a defining code of the Maison. It has a diameter of 44 mm, excluding the two crowns set at 3 and 9, another distinctive feature of CYRUS watches. Respectively, the first sets the time and winds the movement, whilst pressing the second, rapidly corrects the hour.
THE KLEPCYS VERTICAL SKELETON TOURBILLON is a limited edition manufactured in three versions. Five pieces of each are available: in grade 5 titanium with black DLC treatment, in 4N rose gold and a two-tone version in 4N rose gold with black DLC titanium bezel.
The watch is completed with a black alligator leather strap with a folding DLC titanium clasp for the titanium and two-tone versions. The model in 4N rose gold features a brown alligator leather strap, with a gold buckle.
The Cyrus Klepcys 46mm is easily one of the strangest watches that I have worn for any extended amount of time (even more so than the Azimuth SP-1 Landship watch). Why strange? Well, let’s look at this cushion-shaped space craft for the wrist with its movement that is exotic not only in its complications, but also in how it even indicates the time. I’ve spent many conversations simply explaining to people how the “mobile cube” system in the Cyrus Klepcys allows you to read the proper hour and minute. With that said, after getting used to this rather clever time-telling concept, the Cyrus Klepcys becomes easy, if not actually enjoyable to read.
The Cyrus Klepcys 46mm started its life back in 2011 when it was originally debuted on aBlogtoWatch here. At the time, the brand was under different ownership. The movement was designed by Jean-Francois Mojon, a person we respect for his often brilliant and typically unique watch movements. Mr. Mojon is the head of a movement design firm called Chronode – which also happens to be owned by the same people who currently own Cyrus.
I don’t want to discuss the movement just yet. Even though the mechanical automatic movement inside of the Cyrus Klepcys is interesting, it isn’t what first catches most people’s attention. The large 48mm-wide case with its tall, curved stance and massive personality is what most people see first. You need some big wrists to properly pull off the Cyrus Klepcys, else it will eat your arm alive. The many surfaces and details are impressive, and the watch does look decidedly cool. With that said, there are some very sharp angles to the case. I’ll go so far as to suggest that the Cyrus Klepcys is among the more dangerous watches I’ve worn. Put to the test and in the right hands, it would not surprise me if an resourceful assassin could use the Cyrus Klepcys to complete a contract.
For the most part, the case isn’t going to cut you, but I am talking about certain elements, like the “serrated” crown and sharp edges to the deployant clasp. Wearing it normally is pain free, but once in a while, your finger will encounter a “challenging” angle. Perhaps, that is worth it, since it takes true grit to pull off a timepiece like this. It is interesting because I’ve found a distinct split among watch lovers with some capable (and willing) to don such a bold and avant-garde watch… while others shy away from anything that isn’t strictly “conservative” or “traditional.” What is it about untested designs that evokes so much emotion in either the positive or negative direction?
I, for one, am a known experimenter with watches, happy to wear a true classic, but excited to wear something new or uncommon. When wanting to go the full avant-garde route you really must combine a special movement with a special case – assuming you can afford it, that is. Looking at the Cyrus Klepcys in that regard, it does satisfy both qualifications. Just wait until you find the “Mars” version of the Klepcys…
One of the more obscure details of the Klepcys is on the rear of the case. There lies a solid gold medallion “replica” of an ancient Persian empire coin. Cyrus claims (at least they did in the past) that the company owns the actual coin and that the gold replica on the back is a testament to the name of the brand (which is that of Cyrus the Great of Persia). This medallion on the back of the watch is an interesting touch but, like many things in the world of watches, it is difficult to appreciate its purpose without more of the brand’s back story.
I have to admit that stuff like this happens a lot in the watch world. Brands produce products and are so invested in the process that they forget what the rest of the world needs to know about those products. Either there are design elements which require context to fully appreciate, or watches are designed without things like the actual model name on them. So I am not really singling out Cyrus here, but rather commenting on a larger issue in the watch industry which I find amusing. Then again, perhaps the mystery of why some watches are the way they are helps add to their appeal.
Exclusivity and rarity is an appeal unto itself when it comes to watches. In fact, the entire purpose of complex movements such as that in the Cyrus Klepcys is to be different. That means not only individual in their design, but also in how they operate and tell the time. Inside the Cyrus Klepcys is the caliber CYR598 produced from 456 parts, operating at 4Hz (28,800 bph). The movement has a power reserve of 40 hours and is an automatic. In terms of functions, it tells the time with hours, minutes, and seconds; shows AM and PM indicators; has a moon phase indicator; and displays the date. It also happens to do none of these things in ways most other watches do.
Time is told first with the seconds on a disc in the absolute center of the Klepcys dial. Around the seconds disc is a minute disc. This element is a bit complex because it needs to move in tandem with a retrograde hour hand. This means that as the hour hand moves, so does the minutes disc along with it. The effect is rather interesting and is certainly the result of clever gearing (and math). Hours are, of course, indicated on the scale to the left. To read the correct time, all you need to do is locate the position of the hour hand… which actually happens to also be the minute hand. While there are probably other examples, this is a very rare situation when the exact same hand indicates both the hours and minutes on separate scales.
Look to the left of the hand, and you’ll find the hour, and to the right, you’ll find the minute. It works easily once you get the hang of it, but you’d be surprised how often people don’t understand how to read the time on the Cyrus Klepcys. It is a fun way to test people – just ask them to read the time. The time-telling hand has another trick to it, though: the small cubes spin in order to indicate day or night. Basically, one side of the cubes are painted one color (such as yellow or white) and the other side is painted red. This is how you you determine AM or PM.
The upper right quadrant of the Cyrus Klepcys 46mm dial is dedicated to the very interesting retrograde date indicator. Once again, a small metal cube is used to indicate the correct information. The cube indicates either 0, 1, 2, or 3 and moves along a scale of 0-9. The most clever part is how the system knows there aren’t 33 days in a month and adjusts accordingly. The date is further adjusted by the Cyrus Klepcys’ right crown – which is actually a pusher. Playing with the date indicator is easily one of the most enjoyable elements of fiddling with this timepiece.
Last, the dial has a moonphase indicator – and again, Cyrus was not able to go a “standard route” with this classic horological complication. Rather than a disc, the moon phase is indicated using an actually three-dimensional moon orb. The detailing on the moon orb is very impressive, and a metal shroud is used to slowly cover the moon. This is how the moon phase is indicated, and there is an inset pusher on the side of the case used to adjust the moon phase indication.
The movement inside of the Cyrus Klepcys 46mm is certainly a highlight of the collection – and I believe the dial is finished in a slightly different way depending on the case material. Again, there are also the rare “Mars” versions. This particular ref. 539.004.C version of the Cyrus Klepcys is the base model because it is in natural polished titanium. I prefer that because it helps remove a bit of the mass, given the lightness of titanium. Cyrus offers at least six other versions. These are produced either in 18k white or rose gold, or a combination of gold and titanium parts. There are also some models with DLC black-coated titanium parts.
All versions of the Cyrus Klepcys 46mm are limited editions, and each version is limited to just 33 pieces, save for the 18k white gold with black DLC titanium 539.002.A (limited to 88 pieces). This is a very unconventional watch that is going to be uniquely enjoyable to collectors of rare, complicated timepieces. I feel very lucky to have worn and shown off one of these – especially when seeing people struggle over understanding the dial.