The Blancpain Fifty Fathoms needs no introduction to anyone who has ever dipped at least a toe in the history of dive watches as it is widely regarded as the “first true diver’s watch.” 2023 is all about the Fifty Fathoms celebrations for Blancpain, and today marks the debut of the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms 70th Anniversary Act 3 watch, the third edition created specifically for the 70th birthday of this unquestionably important collection. Be sure to read the article we linked to just above, and especially its second page, to familiarize yourself with the history of dive watches and how the Fifty Fathoms became an important tool in its field through a collaboration between Blancpain and a French elite divers unit called “nageurs de combat,” led by Robert Maloubier. While the chances of such a purpose-driven item becoming a cult classic are rather high, few of those early pioneers have lasted 70 years — much to our pleasure and entertainment, the Fifty Fathoms is s We are looking at the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms 70th Anniversary Act 3 watchwatch in more detail in just a moment, but first, we should reiterate how the original Fifty Fathoms, along with the Rolex Submariner, opened a new world of possibilities in what was still a rather basic stage of dive timing. The Fifty Fathoms included a self-winding movement to reduce the wear on the components of the screw-down crown by reducing the number of times the crown had to be used to revive or rewind the watch; a continuous seconds hand to indicate that the watch is still in operation; large luminous hour markers, hands, and bezel markers; a timing bezel; anti-magnetic properties (required as magnetism is present in the world of diving); and proper water resistance down to a depth of 91.45 meters — which is, you guessed it, 50 fathoms. In essence, the original Blancpain Fifty Fathoms preceded (and helped outline) the modern ISO 6425 standard by some 40 years, the very standard that defines the characteristics of the modern dive watch. The all-new Blancpain Fifty Fathoms 70th Anniversary Act 3 watch (reference 5901-5630-NANA) is a heavy hitter despite its moderate size. At 41.3mm wide (like the historic MIL-SPEC Fifty Fathoms) and 13.3mm thick, it’s going to be a whole lot more comfortable and indeed more proportionate than the Fifty Fathoms Tech Gombessa (reviewed here) that debuted as “Act 2” in the 70th-anniversary celebrations. So what makes it a heavy-hitter, then? While there is no official word on weight, you can expect “Act 3” to come with serious heft as it is crafted from 9k Bronze Gold, a patented alloy that’s 50% copper allowing it to be called “bronze,” enriched with 37.5% gold allowing for the 9k hallmark, with a pinch of silver, palladium and gallium. That’s the jab, and here comes the cross: Despite the resurgence of bronze (not Bronze Gold, just bronze) in dive watches in recent years, the price does not reflect the heavy reliance on copper — the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms 70th Anniversary Act 3 costs $32,000. For that sort of money, a watch on a woven strap arguably should be more gold than it is copper, but maybe that’s just us. Safeguarded by some 164 fathoms of rated water resistance (that’s 300 meters) is the Blancpain 1154.P2 caliber, a no-date version of the 1151. Again, the generously sized sapphire crystal caseback reveals a somewhat underwhelming picture: The 1154.P2 does not offer too much in the way of eye candy, which is odd given that while this technically is a tool watch, it does come at a highly luxurious price. The self-winding rotor is in solid 18k gold, which is nice, and there are a few strips of shiny anglage and polished screw heads, but, for the most part, the 1154 leans rather heavily on a “technical” aesthetic. Spec-wise it is impressively thin at just 3.55mm thick and yet it offers an extended 100-hour power reserve, although that is achieved, at least in part, at the cost of reduced operating frequency, down from the more modern 4Hz to 3Hz. It’s interesting to know that “for the first time, Blancpain is offering a 1000-gauss version of its movement, thanks to the use of [Bronze Gold] coupled with exclusive alloys for the escapement.” Sounds cool until you remember that sister-brand Omega offers 15,000 Gauss dive watches for a fraction of the price, even in 9k Bronze Gold. The black dial features the grey-white moisture indicator that was developed in the 1950s by Jean-Jacques Fiechter, the co-CEO of Blancpain who was an avid diver himself and who played a key role in the creation of the first Fifty Fathoms. Apart from having something irresistibly and intuitively cool about it, the moisture indicator is also useful because it changes color and hence tells the wearer that water or moisture has somehow entered the watch. Water inside watches is bad, and salt water is even worse, given that the early Fifty Fathoms watches had no see-through casebacks but were subjected to heavy use by various military diving units, divers had to be made aware that the movement they were relying on was being eaten away by moisture and rust.
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Go to the Casio G-Shock website at any given time, and you’ll find hundreds of individual watches currently being produced. Filter for men’s models, and you’ll still find an intimidating number of SKUs broken into collections, features, materials and so on. It can be helpful to sort by price, but it’s still confusing — indeed, even Casio seems to have trouble keeping up with their G-Shock offerings.
This category includes any models that lack analog hands. Many harken back to the earliest G-Shocks with squarish cases that appeared in 1983 from the drawing pad of renowned Casio designer Kikuo Ibe. The broad category of digital watches, however, ranges from small retro-styled units to some of the wildest behemoths in the G-Shock range.
The 5600 is essentially the base model, the modern version of the original G-Shock. We recommend looking for a display with dark text on a light background for legibility and paying a little more for premium features like Tough Solar (solar charging) and Multiband 6 (as in our top G-Shock recommendation, the GWM5610). Aside from being the OG and tough as nails, it’s just a great design as evidenced by the multitude of variations that look great.
These relatively premium G-Shocks are popular because they’re so cool (and a little meta), but they remain readily available. They’re styled just like the originals, but now with fully metal construction, including bracelets on some models. They might look very ’80s but they function futuristically with solar charging and come in a range of finishes from traditional steel, gold or black to some typically G-Shock, funky iterations. (Want even more detail and premium features in metal? It also comes in a killer titanium version — and even a high-end MR-G version.)
After the square 5600, this is the most recognizable G-Shock look and is a popular choice for police, soldiers and other professionals around the world. There is a slew of one-offs in the G-Shock digital lineup inspired by the classic 6900 model — some of them common and others that can be hard to get your hands on. These are a little like the 6900, but feature the three-subdial layout and a more toned down, octagonal retro vibe. It’s just an example of the kind of design variety you’ll find come and go in the G-Shock catalog. The blacked-out version is especially striking. These are similar in appearance to many other 1983-based models, but offer specific functionality for surfers with tidal information. They also typically come with smartphone connectivity and steel bezels. What sets these apart are the bar protectors, claimed to be favorites of skateboarders who will beat the crap out of anything strapped to their wrist. The fabric strap helps wick moisture during those all-day street sessions. With their four pronounced bezel bolts and unapologetic technical aesthetic, the 7900 models are badassery personified, Japanese style. The feature set includes tide graphs, which suggest that this watch is ideal for oceangoing activities around the world. All G-Shocks are rated to 2oom, but the Frogman is the rare dive-specific model. Though not a dive computer, it’s rich in dive style and is one of the most iconic designs in the G-Shock catalog. It also has a strap long enough to go over a wetsuit, but be warned that it can be a bit too long for some wrists when you’re not wearing a wetsuit. Though recent Frogman watches have gone analog (see below), we much prefer the OG digital versions. Analog/digital G-Shocks all have traditional watch hands, giving them at-a-glance legibility and a sense of time’s cyclical nature that’s lacking on a fully digital display. There’s something about looking at a whole watch dial that offers a broader perspective on time, and this is certainly part of the analog allure. There’s also an argument to be made for an activity-oriented watch having real hands, as once you’re bouncing through the rapids on your kayak or dangling thousands of feet from a cliff, making out a digital display isn’t always so easy.
If the name HIDDEN NY is new to you, where have you been hiding? I don’t know where I have been because, apparently, I’ve missed out on the massively influential Instagram account that’s counted the late Virgil Abloh and Drake as its top fans while building a following showing the best in streetwear since 2018. All the while HIDDEN has been growing into its own brand and has teamed up for the first time with G-Shock for a new release.
Based off the iconic DW5600, the new DW5600HDN227 takes cues from HIDDEN’s mantra of “Past, Present, and Future” and HIDDEN’s white and green brand colors, but a little bit faded for a retro vibe. That means you actually get opaque bone resin throughout the strap, bezel, and case of the watch and green accents around the dial and in the band itself. HIDDEN’s logo and mantra also show up on the dial when the backlight is used. And the watch itself comes with shock resistance, 200m water resistance, EL backlight, 1/100-second stopwatch, countdown timer, and the rest of the usual features.
The DW5600HDN227 model retails for $170 and will be available for purchase today, August 18th, at hiddenppf.com for a limited time. Beginning on August 24th, you can also get the watch on gshock.com and the G-SHOCK Soho store, if you live in New York.
Does anyone remember the arcade game called Cyber Troopers: Virtual On? I remember going to the local pizza place with my parents as a kid and playing as these massive robots fighting each other. The game was largely in Japanese and had this retro-futuristic vibe and for some reason, this release brought that all flooding back.
I’m a big fan of the opaque resin on this release and the way the brand has put the whole package together. In fact, the digital press release package they sent had some pictures of cool t-shirts and sweatshirts as well, though there was no mention of them in the release. Frankly, that doesn’t surprise me. I’ve never been cool enough to know how you get the extra cool stuff when it comes to streetwear brands. In fact, a few of us at Hodinkee couldn’t quite figure out how to even see a single thing on the hiddenppf.com website, which just confirms that I’m suddenly very old.
For $200, if you can navigate the HIDDEN website and snatch up the release, I think it’s a fun way to scratch the watch buying G-SHOCK WATCHES itch.
G-SHOCK UNVEILS LATEST FULL METAL GMWB5000 IN SLEEK, RED STAINLESS-STEEL CASE
Updated Model Boasts an IP Finish and Diamond-like Carbon Coated Screw Back for Enhanced Toughness and Resistance
DOVER, NJ, January 13, 2021— Today, Casio introduces an all-new timepiece to G-SHOCK’s premium Full Metal Series, the GMWB5000RD-4. The new model is constructed with a tough yet fashionable exterior that boasts an eye-catching red stainless-steel case and solid stainless-steel band.
The latest Full Metal 5000 model carries on the tradition of the original casio g-shock full metal 5000 series DW-5000C with its classic square case shape and digital display. The GMWB5000RD-4 also features a band created with a bold red IP finish, and a screw back with a diamond-like carbon finish for outstanding wear resistance.
In addition to an updated look, the new Full Metal timepiece comes equipped with several of G-SHOCK’s new and most premium technical features, including Bluetooth Connectivity via the casio g-shock full metal 5000 series Connected app, and Multi-Band 6 Atomic Timekeeping for self-adjusting and accurate hour / date display virtually anywhere on the globe. It also boasts a STN-LCD digital display that makes the watch easy to read from any angle, as well as Tough Solar Technology, making it capable of self-charging even with low sun exposure.
The GMWB5000RD-4 also comes equipped with G-SHOCK technology including:
CASIO’s shock-resistant casio g-shock full metal 5000 series watch is synonymous with toughness, born from the developer Mr. Ibe’s dream of ‘creating a watch that never breaks’. Over 200 handmade samples were created and tested to destruction until finally in 1983 the first, now iconic G-SHOCK hit the streets of Japan and began to establish itself as ‘the toughest watch of all time’. Each watch encompasses the 7 elements; electric shock resistance, gravity resistance, low temperature resistance, vibration resistance, water resistance, shock resistance and toughness. The watch is packed with Casio innovations and technologies to prevent it from suffering direct shock; this includes internal components protected with urethane and suspended timekeeping modules inside the watch structure. Since its launch, casio g-shock full metal 5000 series has continued to evolve, continuing to support on Mr. Ibe’s mantra “never, never give up.”
Casio America, Inc., Dover, N.J., is the U.S. subsidiary of Casio Computer Co., Ltd., Tokyo, Japan, one of the world’s leading manufacturers of consumer electronics and business equipment solutions. Established in 1957, Casio America, Inc. markets calculators, keyboards, mobile presentation devices, disc title and label printers, watches, cash registers and other consumer electronic products. Casio has strived to realize its corporate creed of “creativity and contribution” through the introduction of innovative and imaginative products. For more information,
At Kering, now without Girard-Perregaux and Ulysse Nardin, Gucci is the top watchmaker at the luxury group. While Gucci has been producing timepieces for a number of years now (at a variety of price levels), the company has seriously brought back high watchmaking with lavish designs that fit the fashion house’s bold and youthful personality quite well. This set of four different references focuses on a central tourbillon movement and playful animated display for a product Gucci calls its Gucci G-Timeless Planetarium.
Note that this is not a planetarium watch in any traditional sense. While the colors of the precious and semi-precious stones are inspired by the color spectrums of light that we observe from a variety of celestial nebulae, this watch does not display the position or movement of any planetary bodies in our solar system. Instead, the various hour markers on the G-Timeless Planetarium dial both spin on their own axis, and together around the periphery of the dial when a hidden pusher in the crown is activated. That puts the G-Timeless Planetarium watch in line with other complicated, jewelry watches that have added “emotional animation” features designed to titillate the eyes of the watch’s wearer and their audience. Shouldn’t the name of this watch be the Gucci “G-Time” versus “G-Timeless?” I mean of course I get what “timeless” means, but is that really a term you want as the name of a product that should not be “less time?” Perhaps I am thinking about it too much, but I really do feel that this little “minor” detail does matter when it comes to subconscious consumer perceptions about products. It isn’t even timeless either. This dive-style watch looks to be squarely set in circa 1995 with its bold primary colors. Oh, you have got to love the Italians (and their flag). As much as I joke about it, I still do quite like this timepiece as a fashion watch. It is just sorta ‘fun.’
Gucci is watch maker I don’t really discuss all that often. First of all, they don’t make complicated watches. Off the top of my head I can’t even think of a mechanical Gucci watch. Though they do have some which have that “G” as the bezel. For the most part I think of their attractive quartz watches for the ladies. All ladies love a nice Gucci timepiece. For men they have had an interesting and slightly avant garde collection of watches over the years. A few years ago they came out with their pretty cool high-end digital watch collection called the I-Gucci that I will review hands-on soon. It was released right about when it was really trendy to place “i” in front of almost every word. iJoke… no I don’t. This G-Timeless Sport is analog, but contains a Swiss ETA quartz movement. For most people that is a deal breaker, but then again, those people aren’t people who buy “fashion watches.” I actually first wrote about the Gucci G-Timeless collection here a while ago before some of these new styles came out. Once again I find myself interested in the collection. Is it just me or do these pieces beg to be worn with a colorful polo shirt that has a pulled up collar?
The G-Timeless Sport is a dive style watch with 100 meters of water resistance. That is just enough for the “Sport” part of the name to apply. The case is in steel being 44m wide, and there is a PVD black version as well. As a diver style piece it does have a rotating timing bezel and easy to read dial, as well as an AR coated sapphire crystal. Plus, according to Gucci the colored hour markers and hands are done in colored SuperLumiNova.
The four versions of the Gucci G-Timeless Planetarium watch all have 40mm-wide cases, but they are either in 18k yellow, 18k white, or 18k pink gold depending on the version. The 18k yellow-gold version has star-style diamond-set hour markers, while the other models have more circular-cut stones as the hour markers. Hour and minute hands are connected to the central axis but are positioned on turning discs and hover over the large, animated hour marker structures. Given the level of dial depth and the glistening nature of the facet-cut stones, I think it is safe to say that the Gucci G-Timeless Planetarium watch is designed for maximum sparkle (and, psychologically speaking, that helps sell luxury timepieces much of the time).
Gucci has offered limited technical information about the watches and the manually wound tourbillon-based movement. My guess is that the movement operates at 3Hz with about two days of power reserve. Gucci did say that when the animation system is activated, the hour markers spend nine seconds spinning around their own axis, and a total of 90 seconds in order to fully spin around the entire dial. That means a lot of torque, and it isn’t clear if that is all delivered by pushing the activation button or if you need to first wind up a mainspring to power the action.
For 2022, Breitling has redesigned its iconic Breitling Navitimer Chronograph watch, which for decades has been a staple of high-end tool timepieces originally designed for commercial airline pilots in the early 1950s. The Navitimer has seen countless iterations over the years and is one of the world’s most recognized luxury sports watches. It has not, however, experienced a recent makeover under Breitling’s current stewardship by Georges Kern. The updated Breitling Navitimer Chronograph watch for 2022 is known officially as the Navitimer B01 Chronograph and comes in three case sizes with a variety of different dial options, many of which have never been offered in a Navitimer watch before. The aBlogtoWatch team was able to go hands-on with all of the new Breitling Navitimer B01 Chronograph watches and below is our take on this modern version of a timeless classic. For me, the Navitimer has always been a staple of tool watches because of its focus on computational utility. Its core design element is a slide-rule bezel that once allowed pilots to make various necessary calculations such as time to their destination or fuel consumption rate. The rotating slide-rule bezel mixed with the chronograph offered a small universe of capabilities. Only the smartest and most competent pilots would be seen wearing such a wrist instrument, and the legacy of the learned aviation professional lives on in this decidedly Breitling brand watch. With a design DNA that was perfected long ago, according to many timepiece enthusiasts, what was Breitling able to do with a modern Navitimer that hasn’t been done before? It is important to mention some useful context at play when Breitling designed the new Navitimer. First of all, it was the brand’s goal to make the Navitimer look and feel as pleasant as possible while fitting into contemporary trends in luxury timepieces. That means the watches also need variety and be able to appeal to multiple audience sizes and color preferences. While the slide rule feature is truly iconic, few Navitimer customers are known to actually use this piece of functionality, which means the feature needs to be there but Breitling doesn’t really talk about it much. In fact, Breitling has a series of prototype Navitimer watches with more water resistance (hard to accomplish with the bezel functioning as it does). None of those ever made it to market because the resulting watch cases don’t really look “Navitimer enough.” So, Breitling’s goal with the redesigned Navitimer is mainly two-fold: to create a commercially successful luxury watch that fits into Breitling’s “relaxed luxury lifestyle” brand personality, and to offer a product that looks and feels like the classic Navitimer enthusiasts love. Note that to make the dial a bit cleaner, this generation of Breitling Navitimer Chronograph watch dials do not have a tachymeter scale, and I don’t think a single person will really miss it. It was also important that Breitling get to feature its extremely competent in-house caliber B01 automatic chronograph movement but also to make the Navitimer case thinner. Older Navitimer watches are thinner, but they are also manually wound (versus automatic). The 2022 Navitimer watches are about 1.5mm thinner than previous-generation models, and they also feature an exhibition caseback. The case thinness (they are all about 13.6-14mm-thick, depending on the version) is thanks to a redesign of the slide-rule bezel system, which is now flat instead of sloped, as was the case on previous models. The dial doesn’t appear flat, however, thanks to the recessed subdials. Many people will not notice, at first glance, the different architecture of the Navitimer dial, but it is very apparent once you start to inspect it or compare it to other recent Navitimer Chronograph watches. Breitling decided to go very commercial with the dials in terms of colors and finishing. That’s a business decision that probably makes sense, but purists will probably still be more attracted to some of the more historic-looking recent Navitimer watches that have more of a “tool watch” look. The various metallic colors and copious reflective surfaces test well with luxury seekers but make the new Breitling Navitimer Chronograph watch quite “blingy” when compared with the classic models. Adding to that look are new colors, including two different greens (one is a fun mint), two blues, and a variety of grays, whites, and black tones mixed together. There are even 18k red-gold case options in addition to the main steel-cased versions to offer an even more high-end feel. The dials are very nice, but I prefer a more matte style to watches with this level of dial detail, and for the snazzier shiny look, I am still very much taken by Breitling’s Chronomat 42 masterpieces. For me, the most jarring aspect of the new Breitling Navitimer Chronograph watch case design is the polishing. While not always true, most recent Navitimer watches have had all-polished cases — really nice polished cases. For 2022, Breitling goes a different route by maintaining the core Navitimer case style but offering both polished and brushed surface finishing over the case and the available bracelet. This adds a lot of visual interest to the case and bracelet, but the dual-finishing of the 2022 Navitimer watches do make them stand out from the rest of the modern versions of the watch and will probably help them stand out to customers who have previous-generation Navitimer models.
In continuing the Freak X model’s journey, Ulysse Nardin released a brand new reimagining of its innovative reference, now known as the ULYSSE NARDIN FREAK [X OPS]. The piece was unveiled today at Watches & Wonders Shanghai and will be on view at the event until September 17.
From case, bezel to crown, the 43mm reference arrives in titanium build and finished with a black DLC coating. Imbued with a touch of adventurous and rugged appeal, the timepiece is paired with carbon fiber composite flanks that are doused in an earthy khaki green hue. In line with the overall color palette, all the adornments on the dial-spanning indices and lume-filled handset arrive in complementing hues.
Powering the timekeeper with up to 72 hours of running time is the UN-230 Manufacture caliber. It’s geared with a flying carousel movement that rotates around its own axis, with indexes and bridges illuminated in Super-LumiNova, while also beating at a rate of 21,600 hourly vibrations.
With so many watchmakers looking to the past for inspiration, ULYSSE NARDIN FREAK [X OPS] has one option that won’t ever be mistaken for vintage. Debuting in 2001, before futuristic-looking timepieces were cachet, the aptly titled Freak was — and still is — instantly noticeable for its avant-garde design, with no dial or crown, a movement that doubled as a minute hand, and an hour hand (also part of the movement) that ticked away below the minute bridge. Today, the Swiss watchmaker debuts its latest iteration on the Freak, dubbed the Freak X OPS.
Known as “the daily Freak,” the standard ULYSSE NARDIN FREAK [X OPS] was introduced in 2019, introducing a crown to the configuration and adjusting the design ever so slightly in order to add better wearability to the timepiece. Bringing a more tactical, stealthy aesthetic to the watch, the OPS edition features flanks made of a proprietary carbon fiber and epoxy resin composite from Ulysse Nardin, which is colored OD green and textured to look like Damascus steel. At 43mm across, the rest of the case is made from black DLC-coated titanium. While other military-inspired watches simply change the color of the case or dial, the ULYSSE NARDIN FREAK [X OPS] evolves its entire look.
Underneath the sapphire crystal, you can view the in-house UN-230 automatic movement, which boasts 206 components and 72 hours of power reserve. The elements of the movement that serve as the watch’s hands are lumed and colored in the same green as the flanks. Meanwhile, the timepiece itself has 50m of water resistance, which isn’t as high as other stealth watches but enough to afford you a decent enough diving session.
We’ve told the story of Bell & Ross many times, and most of you will be familiar with its most emblematic watch, the BR Instrument. A circle within a square, a watch directly modelled after dashboard instruments found in antique military aeroplanes, this watch (and all variations) is the brand’s icon. Recognizable among all is the BR 03 (the smaller version of the BR 01, which has become the standard model), which has been around for more than 15 years now. It was about time to give it a slight update. But with such a cult status, it had to respect some codes. Let’s find out about the updated Bell & Ross BR 03 Collection in this article and our video above. Bell & Ross was founded in 1992 as a university project by two friends: Bruno Belamich (the Bell in the name) and Carlos Rosillo (the Ross in the name). The initial idea was to create instrumental pieces inspired by everything military – special forces, diving commandos, air forces and field action in general. The first watches were made with German manufacturer Sinn and quickly gained recognition from civilian enthusiasts and military personnel. But the real turning point in the brand’s history occurred in 2005, with the creation of a watch that would become the emblem of Bell & Ross BR 03 , the BR 01 Instrument.
It was the brand’s declaration of independence, a watch with its own design and identity. A key watch for Bell & Ross, it gave the brand international exposure. The main reason for the success of this watch lies in the simplicity of its design. Unique and easily recognizable, it is permeated with military roots. The distinctive design came from transferring the shape of vintage dashboard instruments from a plane to the wrist. This no-nonsense design made it into a wristwatch with the now-emblematic circle within a square, held by 4 functional screws (one in each corner) and an extremely legible dial in the centre. Soon after, the imposing BR 01, with a 46mm width, gave birth in 2006 to a smaller version, the 42mm BR 03, which has now become the cornerstone of the collection, derived in dozens of versions, even some directly inspired by the display of dashboard instruments. With more than 15 years of existence, this design is getting a discreet but welcome update in 2023 with the new Bell & Ross BR 03 Collection. Rest assured, the emblematic, instantly recognizable shape and the military and aviation inspirations are still at the heart of the watch. But it’s been lightly revamped to make it even more attractive.
First of all, the new collection respects the original canons of the watch: it still has a square case with a perfectly round dial under a flat sapphire crystal, it is still secured by 4 screws, and it still has one of the purest and most legible dials in the industry. However, some changes have been made to make the BR 03 slightly more appealing without denying its military roots. First, the case is now 41mm x 41mm, meaning it’s now 1mm smaller. And considering that a square watch has more presence than a round watch with an identical width, every millimetre counts. More subtle changes have been made to the case. The lugs, for instance, are now 4mm in width, compared to 4.5mm in the past. Also, they have a new faceted profile, which brings more curvature towards the wrist. In the same vein, the rounded corners have a slightly larger radius, and the lateral bevels on the side of the case and the bezel are much larger than before for more depth. The case retains its comfortable 100m water resistance, with a solid back and a sapphire crystal on top. The small changes can be felt, and the watch wears slightly smaller and sits more comfortably on the wrist. The design is more refined, thanks to more rounded corners and larger bevels (polished on the steel models). More importantly, the rubber strap has been redefined, with a narrower profile and a more tapering effect at the buckle, again increasing comfort.
Following this evolution, the new Bell & Ross BR 03 only bears very light changes on its ultra-legible dial. Mainly, the hour hand is slimmer, while the tracks and numerals are slightly more pronounced. Thanks to high-contrast matte dials and the generous use of Super-LumiNova, time is visible at a glance in all situations. The date window at 4h30 will remain a point of debate; we think the watch could do without it.
The BR 03 new generation is presented as a complete collection of eight references. It comprises three classic black ceramic case models – Black Matte with white numerals, Phantom with a full-black look, numerals and hands included, and Heritage with a retro look. The three classic steel versions are back too, with the Black Steel, Blue Steel and Golden Heritage models, respectively, with black, blue and brown dials. Also, Bell & Ross introduces two new models. First is the BR 03 Copper with a galvanized brushed dial, engraved black numerals and indexes that give it further depth. It has blue metallic hands, a steel case and a brown strap. The second is the Bell & Ross BR 03 Military Ceramic, with a black ceramic case and a khaki green dial, as the most military inspired model of the collection. Last but not least, Bell & Ross also updates the movement with an upgraded calibre 302. It uses the latest innovations of Sellita with an extended power reserve of 54 hours versus 38 hours in the past and is based on the Swiss manufacturer’s SW300 architecture. All in all, the new Bell & Ross BR 03 collection isn’t a revolution. And this is exactly why it is a clever move. It would not have been clever to dramatically alter a watch with such a recognizable design. Instead, gradual evolutions to bring slightly better specifications and refined design feel like the best solution to ensure the BR 03 retains its emblematic status over the years.
While the stars of the show for the celebrations of the Royal Oak’s 50th anniversary were, without a doubt, the new Extra-Thin 16202 and the Openworked 16204, Audemars Piguet won’t only be looking at the Jumbo models. In fact, throughout 2022, the entire permanent Royal Oak collection will be updated. Be reassured; we’re talking small touches to make these models slightly more refined or mechanically more modern. The design invented by Genta in 1972 is still alive and well and almost intact. First, concerning the audemars piguet royal oak selfwinding 37mm and audemars piguet royal oak selfwinding diamonds Chronographs 38mm & 41mm, the evolutions will be focusing on details from the case and bracelet and dial design/colours. And, a little spoiler, these evolutions will also concern the Royal Oak Selfwinding 41mm and 34mm in the second half of 2022. But let’s look at this new collection to understand what has changed.
Let’s get straight to the point. We’re not looking at a complete overhaul of the Royal Oak. Don’t expect a complete redesign or entirely new models. The collection that Audemars Piguet releases in the frame of the 50 years of the Royal Oak is about subtle, minimal updates without altering the original concept of the RO collection. It’s still a sports watch with an integrated bracelet; it still features an octagonal bezel with eight screws; it is still a proper luxury watch; and it still features a tapisserie pattern on the dial. And the way the collection is articulated – read Selfwinding time-and-date watches in 34mm, 37mm and 41mm, as well as two Selfwinding Chronographs in 38mm and 41mm – hasn’t been touched either. Those who were expecting the Royal Oak to change will be disappointed. Those, and they are many, who were looking forward to the Royal Oak remaining true to its origins will be pleased.
So, what has changed in 2022? And this goes for all three audemars piguet royal oak selfwinding 37mm and Chronographs 38mm and 41mm we’re looking at today and will be the same for the 34mm and 41mm later this year. As for the case, it’s about the finishing and how the case is shaped. While retaining the same proportions as before, these new Royal Oak references now have enlarged polished bevels adorning the top and the bottom of the case, enhancing the contrast and play of light with the brushed surfaces. Also, the screwed caseback has been slightly more integrated into the case middle to sit more comfortably on the wrist.
Another evolution concerns the transition between case and bracelet and the way the whole tapers to the clasp. Indeed, to accentuate the case’s slenderness and add a bit of refinement, the integrated bracelet’s first four links are now trapezoid in shape and no longer parallel. This more pronounced decrease in thickness brings forward the bracelet’s taper for more visual appeal. Furthermore, the links are thinner throughout the bracelet and therefore lighter, enhancing the comfort on the wrist – this evolution of the design was actually introduced discreetly on Royal Oak models in gold a few years ago but now finds its way into the whole collection, including steel and titanium models.
The second update concerns the dials. audemars piguet royal oak selfwinding adds subtle touches without drastically changing the overall idea of the tapisserie pattern, which has been associated with the Royal Oak since its very creation. The idea with the 2022 update of the Royal Oak Selfwinding models is to bring coherence. Design-wise, the hour markers and hands retain the same aesthetics as before, yet the size has been harmonised across the whole collection, regardless of diameter and material. In the same vein, the proportions of the hour markers of the new self-winding chronographs and self-winding time-and-date timepieces have been standardised according to the different diameters.
Looking at the dial in more detail, there’s a new AUDEMARS PIGUET signature, replacing the applied AP monogram and printed text used in past collections. Now, the brand is using the same embossed signature as used on Code 11.59. Made of thin layers of 24-carat gold, the signature is achieved through a chemical process akin to 3D printing known as galvanic growth. Each letter is connected with links approximately the size of a hair and placed on the dial by hand. Also, all watches now have tone-on-tone date wheels.
Finally, while the tapisserie pattern has been retained and shows the same size as before – and this is specific to the 37mm time-and-date model – the flat external zone on which the minute track was printed has now been removed, and the track is now printed directly on the guilloché dial, just like on Jumbo models. The two 38mm and 41mm audemars piguet royal oak selfwinding chronographs retain a smooth external scale, which is used as a precision seconds track.
When it comes to creating the most technologically involved execution of a fairly simple concept, arguably no brand goes harder than Richard Mille. Regardless of how you may feel about the brand’s ultra-modern aesthetic and sky-high price point, there is a lot of interesting technology behind the timepieces that it produces, and Richard Mille simply does not make boring watches. As its latest new release of 2023, Richard Mille has announced the next chapter in the evolution of the RM 030 that originally made an appearance back in 2011, and the new Richard Mille RM 30-01 Automatic with Declutchable Rotor represents a revamped and more advanced rendition of one of the brand’s signature models.
The new Richard Mille RM 30-01 Automatic with Declutchable Rotor is essentially just a self-winding watch with a date display and power reserve indicator, although this description doesn’t even tell half the story. The two numerals for the date are each displayed by a separate DLC-treated titanium disc, while the self-winding movement features an integrated clutch mechanism that automatically disconnects the rotor from the barrel once the mainspring is fully wound. Additionally, rather than simply having a crown with multiple different positions like watches from virtually all other brands, the RM 03-01 has a function selector switch operated by a pusher that is located on the side of the case at 2 o’clock, which allows users to switch between winding (W), hand-setting (H), and date-adjustment (D) positions for the crown.
Richard Mille’s declutchable rotor concept originally debuted way back in 2011 on the RM 030, although the new Richard Mille RM 03-01 turns things up a notch with the addition of a function selector switch, along with a number of other refinements and updates to both its overall construction and internal movement technologies. On top of that, the new RM 03-01 also offers a completely overhauled display, which features a noticeably more open-worked aesthetic that is based upon angular lines, instead of the curved forms that characterized the dial of the original Richard Mille RM 030. Rather than featuring a full set of Arabic numeral markers with a date display at 7 o’clock and the rest of its indicators placed around the center of the dial, the new Richard Mille RM 03-01 has a diamond-shaped power reserve indicator sitting to the left of the hands in the center, while its date window has been relocated to 4 o’clock. Sitting just above the date display is an indicator for the function selector switch, while an on/off display for the status of the declutchable rotor appears in the far upper left corner at the 11 o’clock position. As for the actual dial of the RM 03-01, it features a two-layer construction, with the first made from transparent sapphire, while the other is crafted from titanium and has a diamond-shaped design that mirrors the appearance of the plates and bridges of the movement.
The new Richard Mille RM 30-01 Automatic with Declutchable Rotor is offered in two different configurations, with one featuring a case that is crafted entirely from grade 5 titanium, while the other has a middle case made from titanium that is paired with upper and lower sections in 5N red gold. Despite their different materials, both versions of the new Richard Mille RM 03-01 feature tonneau-shaped cases that measure 42mm in diameter by 17.59mm thick, with an overall lug-to-lug profile of 49.94mm. Additionally, sapphire crystals with anti-reflective treatment are fitted to both the dial sides of the watches and their display casebacks, while water resistance for the RM03-01 comes in at a fairly standard 50 meters. Rather than using an intermediary casing ring to hold the movement inside of the watch like a number of previous Richard Mille models, the internal caliber is developed to be integrated into the design of the new RM 03-01, and it sits on rubber chassis mounting components that are attached by four spline screws in grade 5 titanium. Additionally, just like virtually all of the other tonneau-shaped models in Richard Mille’s lineup, the various case components of the RM 03-01 are held together with a set of titanium spline screws that are paired with abrasion-resistant washers made from 316L stainless steel. Powering the new Richard Mille RM 30-01 Automatic with Declutchable Rotor is the brand’s Caliber RMAR2 skeletonized self-winding movement, which runs at a frequency of 28,800vph (4 Hz) while offering users a power reserve of approximately 55 hours. Although the biggest mechanical difference between the new RM 30-01 and the original RM 030 from 2011 is the addition of the function selector switch, both models are characterized by their signature declutchable self-winding mechanisms and variable geometry rotors.
In order to ensure that their movements do not over-wind themselves, nearly all automatic watches feature a sliding flange within their barrels that allows the mainspring spring to slip when the watch is fully wound. As a way to prevent the additional wear that can occur while the mainspring slips within its barrel, the Richard Mille Cal. RMAR2 features a clutch that automatically disconnects the rotor from the winding mechanism once the watch is fully wound. The clutch will then autonomously re-engage the rotor once the power reserve drops below 40 hours so that the movement can maintain an optimum level of tension in the mainspring. As for the variable geometry rotor, the multi-component structure features a five-position adjustable weight system (the pair of wing-shaped things that sit within it), which allows its winding ability to be fine-tuned and optimized for its individual owner’s lifestyle and wearing habits.
