Richard Mille RM 71-02

Two years after the highly contrasting shades of the RM 71-01 (you can peruse our introduction here ), Richard Mille is dispatching the new RM 71-02 Automatic Tourbillon Talisman collection whose heroes are the kaleidoscopic shades of the valuable stones enhancing the watches. Comprised of ten models, each introduced in a restricted version of 7 pieces, the assortment is by one way or another propelled by the club culture of the 1970s and the introduction of electronic and disco music. Jewels, sapphires, rubies, tsavorites, peridots, lapis lazuli, chrysolemon, malachite, mother-of-pearl, turquoise, pink opal and jasper are only a portion of the beautiful components utilized by Cécile Guenat, Creative and Development Director at Richard Mille, for these select manifestations. The valuable stones are set in mathematical themes over the whole case just as the dial on account of a stunning work of craftsmanship. Just envision that over a half year were expected to approve the stones’ situating, size and sort of setting to accomplish the exact impact sought. The ten models contrast in the course of action of their stones, their setting design, their etching and the focal improvement of the 0,90 mm thickness dial. All models are housed in 52.20 x 34.40 x 12.50 mm white gold cases and powered by oneself winding CRMT1 type that was initially produced for the RM 71-01 Automatic Tourbillon Talisman assortment in 2018. The eighth in-house development of Richard Mille just as its first programmed tourbillon type, this skeletonised and tonneau-molded type is simply 6.2 mm thick and weighs just 8 grams. The instrument consolidates another programmed tourbillon that is especially thin, super elite and upgraded with shining jewels, mother-of-pearl, onyx and dark sapphires. The baseplate ensuring the tourbillon’s pivot stays open to protect straightforwardness. Beating at 28,800 vibrations each hour and offering a force save of 50 hours, the new development includes a diamond set bidirectional rotor with variable math that empowers twisting to be acclimated to the owner’s action level. Each model is related to a lady’s name. Bianca Pink sapphires, tsavorites, jewels, peridots, rubies, hematite, pink opal Number of stones: 941 Carats: 4,96 Carmen Sapphires and yellow sapphires, precious stones, tsavorites, peridots, lapis lazuli, chrysolemon, malachite Number of stones: 971 Carats: 5,42 Diana Sapphires, rubies, jewels, lapis lazuli, white mother-of-pearl, turquoise Number of stones: 915 Carats: 5,59 Donna Pink and yellow sapphires, jewels, spessartites, rubies, pink opal, hematite Number of stones: 823 Carats: 3,88 Gloria Pink and yellow sapphires, dark spinels, spessartites, precious stones, pink opal, onyx, hematite Number of stones: 967 Carats: 5,26 Grace Sapphires, pink sapphires, jewels, amethysts, tsavorites, rubies, chrysoprase, opal Number of stones: 964 Carats: 5,05 Jane Sapphires, yellow and pink sapphires, precious stones, spessartites, rubies, turquoise, opal Number of stones: 962 Carats: 4,95 Jessica Sapphires, yellow sapphires, precious stones, spessartites, turquoise, lapis lazuli, hematite Number of stones: 954 Carats: 5,58 Liz Tsavorites, peridots, purple sapphires, amethysts, jewels, sugilite, chrysolemon, malachite Number of stones: 817 Carats: 4,45 Paloma Sapphires, pink sapphires, jewels, pink mother-of-pearl, lapis lazuli, jasper, onyx, dark spinels Number of stones: 892 Carats: 5,79 The watches are coordinated to a complete arrangement of arm bands uniquely intended for each model. Emblazoned with vegetal themes at 12 o’clock and mathematical lines at 6 o’clock, every wristband highlights two unique shades with a metallic treatment on the cowhide. richardmille.com Suggested perusing: – Richard Mille’s journey for development: innovative materials – The historical backdrop of the Richard Mille brand
A profusion of light in prismatic colours. An eruption of coloured stones. Two years after the black and white shades of the RM 71-01, the brand new RM 71-02 Automatic Tourbillon Talisman collection brings colour to its apotheosis in the Richard Mille universe. A collection of ten models, each presented in a limited edition of 7 pieces, imbued with the quintessence of the ’70s. Marked by the rise of club culture, as well as the birth of electronic and disco music, this decade saw an urban tribe of night owls emerge, creatures that donned their most beautiful plumage at nightfall. Cécile Guenat, Creative and Development Director at Richard Mille, revisited the unapologetic individualism of the disco era. She has captured the play of light, sound and colour in a synthesis of the various strata that together make up 1970s culture: from the haunting rhythm of the era’s hits, to the theatrical decor of Studio 54, to say nothing of the period’s fashion predilection for shiny lamé, rhinestones and sequins… Ten watches, each exhuberently flaunting their own strength and beauty. A profusion of colour and a combination of stones never seen before at Richard Mille. Tsavorites, flamboyant spessartites, amethysts, diamonds, spinels, rubies and sapphires conjure a magnetic alchemy. An energy and talismanic spirit is linked to the ornamented dials: hematite is associated with strength, malachite with inner balance, lapis lazuli with vision, sugilite with protection, pink opal with healing… The new Talisman collection showcases the singular qualities of these pieces through highly symbolic choices of precious stones, set in geometric motifs over the entire case as well as the dial. A supreme work of craftsmanship, for which more than six months were needed to validate the stones’ positioning to achieve the precise effect sought. ‘The intense glamour of the disco era resided in a multiplication of colours and textures,’ explained Cécile Guenat. ‘I had to find a way to make this idea tangible. Working with the stones themselves proved to be a considerable challenge. Because stones of very similar hues can end up looking completely different depending on their size and the type of setting.’
The ten models differ in the arrangement of their stones, their setting pattern, their engraving and the central decoration of the 0,90 mm thickness dial. They all, however, share the same CRMT1 calibre. Presented for the first time as part of the RM 71-01 Automatic Tourbillon Talisman collection in 2018, the CRMT1 is Richard Mille’s eighth in-house movement but its first automatic tourbillon calibre. A feat requiring 1,000 hours of development, it is a true technical achievement, given that the tourbillon mechanism is integrated into the heart of a movement only 6.2 mm thick and weighing just 8 grams. Developed for daily wear, this calibre reaffirms Richard Mille’s unwavering commitment to the pursuit of extreme mechanical innovation. Both artistic and mechanical know-how are perfectly reflected in this new collection, accompanied by a complete series of bracelets specially designed for each model. Bracelets – embossed with discreet vegetal motifs at 12 o’clock and geometric lines at 6 o’clock – each featuring two different shades, and whose metallic treatment on the patent leather enhances the visual impact of the stones.
Each component of the Richard Mille RM 71-02 Automatic Tourbillon Talisman collection thus radiates bewitching raw energy, carrying on the spirit of this era, whose lasting cultural legacy is universal.
Richard Mille RM 71-02 Automatic Tourbillon Talisman Collection Technical Specifications
Microblasted grade 5 titanium with PVD treatment lends great rigidity to the baseplate and the bridges, as well as the precise surface flatness essential for perfect functioning of the gear train.
The skeletonised baseplate and bridges were subjected to intensive and complete validation tests to optimise their resistance capacities.
This type of balance wheel represents the ultimate in innovation. It guarantees greater reliability when subjected to shocks and during movement assembly or disassembly, hence better chronometric results over time. The regulator index is eliminated, and a more accurate and repeatable calibration is possible thanks to 4 small, adjustable weights located directly on the balance.

RM 07-01 Automatic Racing Red

Richard Mille is marking its racing team’s LMP2 debut in the FIA World Endurance Championship at Belgium’s Spa-Francorchamps circuit this weekend with a limited edition RM 07-01 Racing Red.

The color is taken from Roxy, the Oreca-Gibson car driven by the all-female Richard Mille Racing Team of Beitske Visser, Sophia Flörsch and Tatiana Calderón, all of whom will be wearing the new limited edition while driving during the championship.
The combination of the Racing Red and black results in a sporty take on the normally feminine RM07-01, with black Carbon TPT forming the dial and caseband, while red Quartz TPT forms the rest of the case.

The limited run of 50 watches is powered by the CRMA2 automatic, a skeletonized titanium movement with 50 hours power reserve and free sprung balance.

Qualifiers, with 14 cars in the LMP2 class, take place on Friday with the Total 6 Hours of Spa-Francorchamps starting on Saturday. The FIA World Endurance Championship is a series of six endurance races, including the 24 Hours of Le Mans, staged in Europe, the Middle East and Asia.

No word on price yet, but the RM07-01 Automatic Racing Red is available now, via Richard Mille.
Richard Mille is marking its racing team’s LMP2 debut in the FIA World Endurance Championship at Belgium’s Spa-Francorchamps circuit this weekend with a limited edition RM 07-01 Racing Red.

The color is taken from Roxy, the Oreca-Gibson car driven by the all-female Richard Mille Racing Team of Beitske Visser, Sophia Flörsch and Tatiana Calderón, all of whom will be wearing the new limited edition while driving during the championship.
The combination of the Racing Red and black results in a sporty take on the normally feminine RM07-01, with black Carbon TPT forming the dial and caseband, while red Quartz TPT forms the rest of the case.

The limited run of 50 watches is powered by the CRMA2 automatic, a skeletonized titanium movement with 50 hours power reserve and free sprung balance.

Qualifiers, with 14 cars in the LMP2 class, take place on Friday with the Total 6 Hours of Spa-Francorchamps starting on Saturday. The FIA World Endurance Championship is a series of six endurance races, including the 24 Hours of Le Mans, staged in Europe, the Middle East and Asia.

No word on price yet, but the RM07-01 Automatic Racing Red is available now, via Richard Mille.

In other watch news, Mark Wahlberg spotted wearing a diamond-set Patek Philippe Nautilus Final Edition.
In the past, we covered the release of the female-focused Richard Mille RM07-01 Collection, which featured two black and gold carbon tot models. Richard Mille is proud to announce the next addition to the collection is the Racing Red motorsport-focused version. Created from a combination of Carbon TPT and Quartz TPT, the lightweight case protects Richard Mille’s highly skeletonized in-house designed CRMA2 caliber automatic movement. With a power reserve of 50+ hours, the Racing Red RM 07-01 serves as the perfect tool for Richard Mille Racing Team drivers. Completing the lightweight design is a comfortable color-matched nylon/leather strap and titanium folding clasp. The newest Richard Mille received some testing by Beitske Visser, Sophia Floersch, and Tatiana Calderon during their FIA World Endurance Championship debut in the LMP2 category. The new motorsport-inspired Richard Mille Racing Red RM 07-01 is currently available through an authorized dealer.

patek philippe twenty 4 automatic

At the London event Patek Philippe hosted at the end of October, I was able to see the latest interpretation of the Twenty~4 in person and get a feel for what this new watch is all about. Much has changed from the original rectangular patek philippe twenty 4 automatic collection, in fact, the only element that has survived the transition is the elegant articulated bracelet. With its round case and overdue upgrade to a mechanical automatic movement, the Twenty~4 collection fills the gap in the brand’s repertoire for what Patek Philippe considers an everyday watch to “accompany style-conscious women and self-confident women day in and day out”.
Thankfully, women’s watches have always enjoyed a prominent place in Patek Philippe’s offerings, starting with the fact that the current head of watch creation is Sandrine Stern (who is also the wife of Patek’s President). Unlike other upmarket watch brands, Patek has set a precedent in the field for creating women’s watch complications – from minute repeaters to dual time zones, moon phases, annual as well as perpetual calendars.
Far from being something recent, the decision to offer ‘proper’ mechanical and beautifully decorated watches for women dates back to the 19th century. The first Swiss-made wristwatch was designed by Patek for the trend-setting Hungarian Countess Koscowicz in 1868. In 1916, Patek produced its first repeating wristwatch (Caliber 10), a five-minute repeater housed in a 27mm platinum case for women and, following a hiatus of 80-odd years, resumed its production of women’s complications with the women’s Travel Time Ref. 4864 of 1997. Finally, 2009 was a landmark year for women at patek philippe twenty 4 automatic with the launch of Ref. 7071, the first chronograph conceived exclusively for women with a manufacture movement, recently updated in a classic round 38mm case (Ref. 7150).
In addition to its élite line-up of complicated women’s watches, Patek Philippe offers downsized and sparkling iterations of many of its iconic men’s lines including models from Nautilus, Calatrava, Gondolo and Aquanaut families. But there is no denying that these collections started life as men’s watches and there was a gap in the brand’s portfolio for a line of watches dedicated in heart and soul to women.
With the launch of the Twenty~4 in 1999, the gap was filled. A rectangular watch with a slightly Art Deco personality and a luxurious articulated and integrated bracelet, the Twenty~4 was positioned as an elegant, feminine watch designed for everyday life, 24 hours (hence the name) around the clock. Probably one of Patek’s best-selling collections for the last 19 years, it never got a lot of coverage in specialised watch magazines because it was fitted with a quartz movement. And I suspect that the Twenty~4 might well have been the kind of watch men bought for women, assuming they didn’t give a toss about mechanical movements and would be seduced by the gleaming exterior. Although this might not have supposed a glaring deficiency for many women, for others it felt a little half-hearted.
Times have changed and as more women are buying their own watches the reasoning behind many decisions is that if you are going to invest in a Patek timepiece, you really should be getting the full package and a quartz movement is fine, but not really on a par with Patek’s refined and select approach to watchmaking.
Launched into great fanfare with a deluxe event held by the brand in Milan in October, the new patek philippe twenty 4 automatic surprised us all with its radical departure in case shape. Instead of the classic rectangular-shaped case of the original family (which is still going strong), the new collection features a more traditional 36mm round case and, what everybody with a mechanical bent was waiting to hear, an automatic movement!
Just for the record, the automatic movement inside the revamped collection is not new. Calibre 324 SC is also used in the Nautilus Ref. 5711, and many other hour/minute/central second and date watches. However, as the next generation of Twenty~4, the watch had to touch home base with the original and the bracelet, characterised by its large central rectangular link flanked by two-tier outer links, was respected.
Presented in either stainless steel or 18k rose gold cases and four different dial tones (blue, grey, brown and silver), the 36mm diameter of the new Twenty~4 is spot on for most women’s wrists and has an attractive svelte profile of around 10mm. I tend to wear slightly larger watches and, during the event Patek Philippe hosted in London, was pleasantly surprised by the confident (and admittedly dazzling) presence this watch has on the wrist.
The case and integrated bracelet are impeccably crafted and form a unified flowing module making it hard to determine where one element begins and the other ends. To achieve this subtle, almost liquid sensation, Patek’s designers haven’t made the bracelet vanish under the case but have merged it directly onto the bezel. The central bracelet links at 12 and 6 o’clock are actually part of the diamond-set bezel. I hadn’t noticed this at first, but looking closely you can see how the top and bottom links of the bracelet on the bezel are actually slightly raised and separated from the double band of 160 brilliant-cut diamonds. The solution is ingenious and the overall effect is one of fluid and harmonious lines.
The bracelet, the forte of the original patek philippe twenty 4 automatic collection is a beautiful piece of work. Composed of horizontal rectangular central links flanked by tiered vertical outer links, the bracelet is slinky and sits beautifully on the wrist. All the complex forms of the case and bracelet are polished to a brilliant sheen by hand and fitted with a newly patented foldover clasp.
There are four dial options, two per case material. The 18k rose gold cases come with either a brown sunburst dial or a silvery satin-finished dial while the steel models come with blue or grey sunburst dials. The choice of numerals for the dial is, I suppose, based on the premise that this is a 24-hour companion and should be highly legible.
Some of you will have noticed that the numerals on the new Twenty~4 dials are the same as the prominent Arabic numerals featured on the Calatrava Pilot Travel Time 7234R Lady, a stylish pilot watch for women with GMT functions released during Baselworld 2018. The gold numerals are very big and somewhat ‘elementary’ for my liking and have been treated with a Super-LumiNova coating. The round-tipped baton hands are also ‘borrowed’ from another classic Patek family, this time the Nautilus, and treated with luminescence. In keeping with its purpose in life as an all-rounder, everyday companion, there is even a nicely framed date window at 6 o’clock.
An upgrade from quartz to a self-winding movement was long overdue and we celebrate Patek’s decision. Fitted with the in-house calibre 324 SC, this movement has a consolidated reputation for precision and features a Spiromax balance spring in Silinvar and displays the lavish manual finishings we have come to associate with Patek’s movements.
Measuring 27mm in diameter and with a height of 3.3mm, the movement is composed of 213 parts, beats at 28,800vph (4Hz) and offers a power reserve between 35-45 hours. The unidirectional rotor is crafted from 21k gold and the finished watch in its totality (movement, performance, case, bracelet, etc.) is vouched for by the Patek Philippe Seal of quality. As usual, we think that the power reserve is a tad short on this movement, even though self-winding.
Although a lot of journalists at the Patek event in London were swooning over the sleek slightly sportier steel model with a grey dial, I have to admit that my favourite was the rose gold and silvery dial combination. Much more than just a silvery dial, it recreates the organic crisscross pattern weave of wild shantung silk. The main reason I preferred the shantung silk model is the way the oversized numerals and sporty Nautilus hands don’t jump out at you as much as they do on the darker dials.
They are more subdued and in tune with the intrinsic glamour of the Twenty~4 – a watch I would be hard-pressed to label ‘sporty’. My main obsession would be subjecting this watch to my ‘everyday’ style of life and end up scratching those beautifully polished surfaces. I guess it depends on what Patek’s women interpret as ‘everday’ life!

Patek Philippe Twenty~4

There is an old saying in English that ‘It’s a Man’s World’ and it certainly holds true in the world of horology. Having said that, there are a few brands like Patek Phillipe who believe that men should not have all the fun and offer a nice collection of watches dedicated to women, which includes the Patek Philippe Twenty~4 . For 2021 Patek Philippe has recently added three new references to the Patek Philippe Twenty~4 collection.

Released in 1999 as a collection of elegant quartz watches, the Patek Philippe Twenty~4 received a thorough update in 2018 with the introduction of new bold and sporty models, powered by in-house automatic movements. The new 2021 trio pictured makes the collection even more versatile by adding a slew of new color options. There are two automatic models and one quartz model on offer. Let’s have a quick look
The new 2021 Twenty 4 automatic watches continue to exhibit the sporty design DNA of their elder brethren released a few years ago. Presented in a deep emerald green or a gilded rose gold shade, the dials feature a nice sunburst finish and are highlighted by solid gold Arabic numerals that bring a sense of depth and have been filled with luminous paint for better low light visibility. Surrounding the markers is a printed minute track that along with the well-proportioned baton-style hands makes it a breeze to read the time accurately. Finally, At the 6 o’clock position is a date window that keeps the symmetry of the dial intact.
The case measures a modest 36mm in diameter and has been crafted from stainless steel or rose gold. While the width is on the larger side, thanks to the relatively short lugs, the watch should be able to sit comfortably on slender wrists. Sitting on top of the case is a polished bezel that houses 160, .77ct diamonds that lend the watch a luster commonly associated with women’s jewelry. At the 3 o’clock position is a well-sized crown that should make winding the movement a joyful experience. Speaking of the movement, these watches are powered by Patek’s in-house calibre 324 S C. Operating at 4 Hz, the movement comprises 29 jewels and offers a power reserve of around 35 hours. The movement is beautifully decorated using Geneva stripes and a 21k gold rotor and can be appreciated through the exhibition case-back.

Patek Philippe Launches 3 New Repeaters At ‘Rare Handcrafts’ Geneva

There’s a hierarchy to complications. Probably the simplest is the simple calendar. You put the numbers one through 31 on a disk, stick it under the dial, add a couple of gears to move it one increment forward per day, and you’re in business. As parts counts start to climb (along with prices) mechanisms require more and more hands-on attention from a watchmaker. At the top of the heap are minute repeaters and other chiming complications, which unlike the perpetual calendar and the rattrapante, have resisted industrialization. For all that, it’s hard to think of Patek Philippe nowadays without thinking of a certain blue-dialed Instagram cliché, what put Patek on the map historically, and has kept it there, was its mastery of the full repertoire of high end and complicated watchmaking. That means not only a grasp of all the decorative watchmaking techniques but also deep institutional knowledge of how to approach complicated watchmaking.
The “Rare Handcrafts” 2021 exhibition is running from the 16th to the 26th of June in Geneva. Under normal circumstances, we’d be on site to cover it in person, but we’re not quite there yet in terms of travel. We can tell you, however, that Patek has taken the opportunity to launch a number of new watches at the event, including a new version of the Sky-Moon Tourbillon, and it’s also launched three new minute repeaters. Each in its own way foregrounds different elements of complicated watchmaking, and at the heart of each is the minute repeater – a chiming complication which, maybe more than any other, is most strongly associated with Patek Philippe.
The Ref. 5304/301R-001 Minute Repeater, With Retrograde Perpetual Calendar
This is the latest version of a watch which has been with us in one form or another since 2014, when it launched in red gold. The new version is identical to the launch version, but with 80 baguette-cut diamonds decorating the bezel. The original 5304 was discontinued in 2019. At 43mm in diameter, with diamonds glittering around the already very detailed dial, this is not the sort of quietly refined complication that you might have associated with Patek from past decades. It’s very much a modern watch, albeit filtered through Patek’s tendency in recent years to steer a more decorative course in terms of case design. But if you’re fascinated by mechanics, you can’t do better. The back of the watch gives you a good view of the action of the minute repeater (the hammers and gongs are in their usual place, along with the centrifugal regulator, which controls the tempo of the chimes) but the view on the dial side is of something you generally don’t get to see. The components under the dial are for the perpetual calendar, which while not as dynamic in action as a repeater (if you really want to see the whole thing from overture to finale you have to wait for midnight on a Leap Year) they have their own charm. The heart of a traditional perpetual calendar is the program disk, whose steps encode the length of each month, and which is visible to the right in the above image, along with the cam for the Leap Year. There’s a retrograde indication for the date, and given how much is going on visually, Patek’s managed to make the dial surprisingly legible. Any skeletonized or open dial watch, especially a complicated one, involves tradeoffs between legibility and visual entertainment value, but I’ve always thought that on the whole Patek did a pretty good job balancing the two in the 5304.
The Ref. 5374G-001 Minute Repeater Perpetual Calendar, With Blue Enamel Dial
You can go a couple of different ways with complicated watches. On one hand, you can go for the full Monty maximalist visual experience you get with the 5304. The traditionalist’s approach, however, is to eschew watches that wear their mechanical hearts on their sleeves and go for timepieces (hey, they’re fancy watches, let’s use fancy watch words) in which the complexity is a mostly private pleasure. There is probably something in this decision for a Freudian to unpack, but that’s a story for another day. The 5374G-001 Minute Repeater is definitely in the low-key camp. When this watch launched in 2016, it was in a platinum case with a black enamel dial. The new version is in white gold, with a blue enamel dial. I’m a big fan of platinum minute repeaters because generally speaking, it’s a very tough material to use in chiming complications. Its density and crystal structure mean that it’s an uphill battle to get a good sound out of it (some of the worst-sounding repeaters I’ve heard in 30 years have had platinum cases, but some of the best have also been in platinum. Maybe hard-won victories are the sweetest). In white gold, with a blue enamel dial, this is classic Genevan watchmaking, emphasis on classic – discrete, quietly beautiful, and a watch you wouldn’t look at twice unless you knew what you were looking at already.
The Ref. 7040/250G-001 Rare Handcrafts Minute Repeater
Some take a more-the-merrier perspective on complications, and on that view, more is … well, more. From this POV, parts count is a good in and of itself, and complexity is pursued more or less for its own sake. I can sympathize with this take – I feel it myself sometimes, especially as a watch writer. Who wouldn’t want to go deep on a Patek Caliber 89 or Star Caliber 2000?

But when it comes right down to it, I mostly like seeing one thing done extremely well. Maybe it’s some sort of horological ADHD, but I find the clarity of expression you get in a watch that’s a rattrapante (for instance) and nothing else, is more bracing and refreshing than a horological layer cake. I admire the latter; I’m in love with the former. The new ref. 7040/250G-001 uses the same movement as one of the best-kept secrets in high-end watchmaking – the “Ladies First” minute repeater, which debuted in red gold in 2011. Several years ago, we had a chance to hear all the current production Patek Philippe repeaters at one time, in 2013 – Ben Clymer was on the story – and the ref. 7002R Ladies First repeater was, far and away, the leader of the pack in terms of clarity and purity of tone. That watch was discontinued in 2017, and it’s back now in a version with a diamond-set bezel and a flinqué enamel dial. Flinqué is an enameling technique in which translucent enamel covers a guilloché, or, engine-turned dial. Guilloché is a little more often found now than perhaps ten or fifteen years ago – Breguet is famous for its guillochê dials, for instance. It’s an interesting craft technique in that it requires both a very specific machine tool and a fair amount of manual skill in running it. The machines that do guilloché are called rose engines and they were not made at all for many decades; to this day a number of the machines in use for high-end horology are antiques, with decades of use, and very careful maintenance, under their belts.
Sound quality is the acid test for any repeater. In rose gold, the ref. 7000R Ladies First repeater from 2011 was one of the top five, maybe top three, repeaters I’ve ever heard; I’m almost afraid to listen to this one (assuming I get the chance, which nowadays is far from a given) because rose gold is the classic case metal for repeaters. You can wring good sound out of a lot of other metals, including titanium and platinum, but for well-balanced richness in tone, volume, and general seductiveness, rose gold is very hard to beat. But it’s nice to see this movement, and the model, come back in any way at all. It’s not the most obviously drop-dead technical piece from Patek at Rare Handcrafts Geneva, but of all the watches they’ve announced, it’s awfully close to being the one I’d most like to have (in a world where a rich uncle dies and bequeaths his millions) in my collection.
The ref. 5304/301R-001 Minute Repeater with a retrograde perpetual calendar: rose gold case, with 80 baguette cut diamonds on the bezel. Movement, caliber R 27 PS QR LU. 43mm diameter.

The ref. 5374G-001 Minute Repeater with a perpetual calendar: white gold case, blue grand feu enamel dial. Perpetual calendar with minute repeater. Movement, caliber R 27 Q. Champlevé enamel moonphase aperture.

The ref. 7040/250G-001 Rare Handcrafts Minute Repeater for ladies: white gold case, with 168 diamonds set in the bezel. Movement, caliber R 27 S, minute repeater, with microrotor automatic winding.

Oris Aquis Date Calibre 400

Since its initial debut in fall 2020, Oris’ in-house Calibre 400 automatic movement has been gradually working its way through the brand’s lineup as its new de facto flagship three-hand powerplant. As one of the cornerstones of Oris’ lineup the Aquis diver was a natural choice to debut the new movement in late October 2020, but at that time the Calibre 400 was restricted only to full size 43.5mm models. As summer 2021 ramps up and enthusiasts search for a new vacation-ready sports watch, Oris takes the next logical step and brings the Calibre 400 to the smaller 41.5mm Aquis line. Rather than reinventing the wheel, the new Oris Aquis Date Calibre 400 41.5mm series lets the performance of its new movement speak for itself while maintaining the classic Aquis look.
As the name suggests, the stainless steel case of the Oris Aquis Date Calibre 400 41.5mm line measures in at 41.5mm. The modern and slightly unorthodox Aquis shape with its slab case sides, heavy wide crown guards, and short angular semi-integrated lugs is shared with previous 41.5mm Aquis models, and like those iterations, the unique proportions of the Aquis may make the case measurements somewhat misleading. In practice, the shrink-wrapped profile of the mid-case without any outward flaring coupled with the abrupt downward slant and short reach of the lugs tend to make the Aquis series feel substantially more compact on the wrist than more traditional diver styles. As with previous versions, the heavily toothed unidirectional dive bezel is noticeably wider than the case beneath it, leading to a slight overhang which should aid grip. The ceramic bezel insert features a bright, legible white diving scale on a base of black, navy blue, or deep forest green. Around back, Oris includes a sapphire display window to showcase the new in-house movement, but despite this more vulnerable element the case is rated at a hefty 300 meters of water resistance.
Like the cases, the dials of the new Oris Aquis Date Calibre 400 41.5mm series keep the overall look familiar while subtly hinting at the new movement within. The most notable difference between these dials and the dials of previous Sellita-powered 41.5mm variants is the 6 o’clock date window. Where the smaller diameter of the Sellita movement forced the date display of those models inboard slightly, leading to both a date window and a shortened index at 6 o’clock, the larger date wheel of the Calibre 400 pushes the 6 o’clock window directly in line with the rest of the faceted applied hour indices, eliminating the 6 o’clock index entirely for a cleaner and simpler look. Outside of this small change and a “5 Days” line of text at 6 o’clock, the dial layout is unchanged, with the familiar rounded sporty alpha handset and indices making a return. Also like many previous Aquis models, all three versions of the new Aquis Date Calibre 400 41.5m series use a sunburst dial finish. Buyers can choose between a dark anthracite gray tone, an oceanic sunburst blue, or an emerald green, which feels deep and intense in initial images.
The in-house Calibre 400 automatic movement inside the Oris Aquis Date Calibre 400 41.5mm series is a major step forward for the brand’s movement-making capabilities, especially for its core offerings. Although accurate within COSC chronometer standards at -3/+5 seconds per day, Oris interestingly does not submit these movements for certification. Beyond the excellent accuracy, the Calibre 400 offers magnetic resistance of up to 2,250 gauss, more than 11 times the current ISO standard for anti-magnetism. This durability is continued through the automatic rotor, which replaces the complex and often delicate ball bearing system with a mechanically simpler and more robust tongue-and-groove metal slide bearing system which Oris claims produces far less wear. Power reserve performance is robust as well, with twin mainspring barrels producing a hefty 120 hours of power reserve at a 28,800 bph beat rate. Oris also touts the longevity of the Calibre 400 platform, recommending a service interval of 10 years rather than the more standard five recommended years between services. While the Calibre 400’s performance is undeniably robust, the movement’s finishing is simple, bordering on industrial. A matte-blasted three-quarter bridge covers up most of the real estate beneath the display caseback besides the balance wheel, and the signed skeleton rotor bears a clean brushed finish.
The semi-integrated stainless steel three-link bracelet with dive extension has historically been a hallmark of the Oris Aquis’ design, and the new Aquis Date Calibre 400 41.5mm line continues the trend. With a sharply tapering profile that flows from a narrow clasp directly into the case and bright polishing on the outer links to visually match the lugs, this bracelet offers a unique and eye-catching look. Oris keeps the bracelet from appearing too monotone or flashy thanks to vertically brushed center links. For those that prefer straps, all three models in the new line can also be optioned with the brand’s signed textured black rubber strap, which also includes a folding clasp and dive extension for a modern and functional sporting look.
Funny, when I unboxed this new Oris Aquis Calibre 400 for this review, I couldn’t stop looking at the dial. I know it should be all about the in-house caliber 400, but I’ll tell you that it took a few minutes before taking the watch off again to have a glance at the new Oris movement.

The dial (and watch) look quite similar to their Aquis Ocean Cleanup limited edition. That watch was a bit smaller, and there are some aesthetic differences, but it just reminded me of that one. If you’re a watch fanatic, you haven’t missed the introduction of the new Oris movement: Calibre 400. It is interesting that Oris decided to introduce the movement first, and a few weeks later introduce the first watch to be powered by it. And here it is, the Oris Aquis Calibre 400. With a beautiful gradient blue dial.
I am not a diver, but I do have and have had my share of divers watches. From all sorts of brands and in all sorts of price ranges. What they all have in common are the typical features for diving purposes. A uni-directional bezel, 300 meters of water resistance, screw-down crown, screw case back, and a very legible dial. This watch is no different when it comes to those features. The Oris Aquis has a case shape that is rather unique, of course. And a proper stainless steel bracelet, with the opportunity to swap it for a rubber strap. But the new in-house movement is what makes this watch stand out. The recently introduced Oris calibre 400 has been discussed in this article, but let me summarize.
On 15th October this year, Swiss watch maker Oris unveiled Calibre 400, the brand’s new generation mechanical self-winding movement featuring enhanced anti-magnetic features and an incredible power reserve of five days.

The much-awaited Oris in-house Calibre 400 set a new standard for automatic mechanical movements. This modern mechanical movement was developed entirely in-house by Oris watchmakers and Engineers. It comes with 10-year recommended service intervals and a 10-year warranty.

On 29th October, the brand announced its new diving watch model Aquis Date Calibre 400, the first Oris timepiece to be equipped with the newly released movement.
Oris’s engineers identified that one of the most frequent issues with automatic mechanical movements concerns the ball-bearing system that allows the free-spinning oscillating weight (or rotor) to rotate. This is a critical element of an automatic watch – as the rotor spins, it generates power that’s stored in the mainspring, which is housed in the barrel.

Oris removed the ball bearing altogether and replaced it with a low-friction slide bearing system, in which a metal stud runs through a lubricated sleeve. This is much less complex, highly efficient, and involves far less wear and tear, making it less prone to breakdowns.
The movement provides an impressive 120 hours (5 days) power-reserve via twin barrels, both of which house an extended mainspring, each long enough to store two-and-a-half days of power.

Most mechanical watch movements will be magnetised if exposed to the strong magnetic forces we encounter in daily life. When this happens, they become less accurate, and can stop altogether. To make it highly antimagnetic, Oris engineered Calibre 400 using more than 30 non-ferrous and anti-magnetic components, including a silicon escape wheel and a silicon anchor. In testing by the renowned Laboratoire Dubois, Calibre 400 deviated by less than 10 seconds a day after exposure to 2,250 gauss.

For context, the latest version of the ISO 764 standard for anti-magnetic watches requires that to qualify as anti-magnetic, a watch must be accurate to within 30 seconds a day after exposure to 200 gauss. Calibre 400 recorded one third of the deviation allowed after exposure to more than 11 times the force permitted, making it a highly anti-magnetic movement.

The movement features 21 jewels and beats at 28’800 vph (4Hz). It follows the three-hands and date lay-out featuring centre hands for hours, minutes and seconds functions and a date window at 6’ o clock.

The Oris 400 movement measures 30.00 mm (13 1/4’’’) diameter. It is larger than Cal. 733 (Base Sellita SW 200-1 movement, 25.60 mm or 11½’’’), which has been used for the Aquis Date models since long time.

The Calibre 400 features the same dial lay-out as the SW 200-1 movement: Three hands and date. The new automatic calibre also incorporates instantaneous date mechanism, date corrector, fine timing device and stop-second. In terms of autonomy, the Calibre 400, which is a twin-barrel movement, provides 120 hours of power reserve where as SW 200-1 offers a power reserve of 38 hours.

Naturally, the first watch to house Oris’s innovative automatic movement is the Aquis Date, a popular model from the brand’s contemporary diver’s watch collection.

Chopard Mille Miglia 2021 Race Edition

Chopard has had a long relationship with the 1000 Miglia race since its revival back in 1977. The brand is the official timekeeper of the event since 1988 and has time and again released watches paying homage to the race. This year, Chopard dedicates the all new Chopard Mille Miglia 2021 Race Edition timepiece to the 39th historical re-enactment of ‘the Race of the Red Arrow’ 1000 Miglia race that is set to take place from the 16th to the 19th of June. This year, Chopard dedicates the all new Mille Miglia 2021 Race Edition timepiece to the 39th historical re-enactment of ‘the Race of the Red Arrow’ 1000 Miglia race.
The Chopard Mille Miglia 2021 Race Edition also called the gentleman driver’s chronograph comes in two editions; a 1000 piece stainless-steel and a 250-piece stainless-steel and ethical 18K rose gold edition. Both the timepieces sit comfortable on the wrist with a 44mm case size with sturdy lugs.

 The closed caseback decorated with the Brescia>Roma>Brescia inscription and a chequered flag surrounding the 1000 Miglia logo signifies the relationship between the timepiece and the historic rally. Another aspect of the racing watch is the polished ceramic tachymeter scale present on the bezel that makes the watch a perfect tool for calculating the average speed during the 1000 Miglia rally.Sitting within the beautifully shaped case is the grey dial housing the famous 1000 Miglia ‘Red Arrow’ motif beside the semi-instantaneous date-display window at 3 o’ clock with a date magnifier, the chronograph counters in white and grey and hands and hour-markers coated in Super-LumiNova to further ensure the readability of both day and night-time indications. The combination of colours like grey, white and red represents a strong visual identity that a timepiece like this deserves. As a timepiece dedicated to racing, it comes as no surprise that the movement beating at the heart of the timepiece must measure time dependably. The Mille Miglia 2021 Race Edition model is powered by a chronometer-certified movement with 48-hour power reserve, stop-seconds function, water-resistance to 100 metres as well as a glare-proofed sapphire crystal to increase legibility. Strapped to either a black calfskin leather with red stitching and inner rubber strap (stainless-steel version) or a black calfskin and black rubber strap (stainless steel and ethical 18-carat rose gold version), the Chopard Mille Miglia 2021 Race Edition is a beacon of motorsport pedigree and the sign of a motorsport aficionado.
The world of historic auto racing is as much about channeling the style and atmosphere of racing’s glamorous past as it is about on-track competition, and few such events demonstrate this principle as dramatically as the Mille Miglia in Italy. Originally run as a flat-out road rally on a 1,000-mile loop of public roads stretching from Brescia to Rome and back through the heart of Italy from 1927 to 1957, the modern Mille Miglia is more of a celebration of motoring and the Italian countryside with an annual four-day jaunt through major Italian landmarks in some of the world’s most desirable classic automobiles. Chopard has been part of the revived Mille Miglia story since 1988, and to commemorate the 2021 edition of the event beginning on June 16, the brand has announced two new limited edition iterations of its vintage-inspired Mille Miglia chronograph. With graphical touches inspired by vintage Italian road signage and a wealth of unique and intriguing finishing, both versions of the new Chopard Mille Miglia 2021 Race Edition deliver an intricate and charismatic retro-modern feel.
Like many iterations of the Mille Miglia, the 44mm case of the Chopard Mille Migla 2021 Race Edition appears to have a bold wrist presence in initial images. Available in either stainless steel or two-tone stainless steel and ethically sourced 18K rose gold, this case’s narrow tachymeter bezel and sizeable 13.8mm thickness contribute to a wide and imposing overall stance. That said, the wide-set short lugs should help to mitigate this size on the wrist somewhat. While the overall form is sporty and simple, where the design of the Mille Miglia 2021 Race Edition truly shines is in the details. The main case body is fully brushed, allowing the polished surfaces of the crown, wide-knurled piston pushers, and bezel (all in rose gold on the two-tone model) to stand out starkly. The polished black ceramic bezel insert adds a healthy dose of personality to the mix, with a lacquered tachymeter scale with light, rounded typography lifted directly from midcentury Italian highway signs. While not strictly accurate to the ‘50s era the Mille Miglia event reminisces about, touches like this bathe the more modern profile of the Mille Miglia 2021 Race Edition with a warm layer of nostalgic charm. The etched solid caseback continues this graphic style for the “Brescia > Roma > Brescia” text flanking the engraved checkered flag and Mille Miglia logo motif. The Mille Miglia 2021 Race Edition boasts 100 meters of water resistance, which should be more than adequate for the sporting rigors of the event itself.
Both versions of the Chopard Mille Miglia 2021 Race Edition share the same low-contrast reverse panda dial design, with the pointed applied hour indices, baton handset, and red-tipped chronograph hands finished in either stainless steel or rose gold depending on the model. The dial design carries on the rounded, retro typography of the bezel as well, with numerals in the rehaut, chronograph subdials, and the dial text showing off a vintage Italian flair. Perhaps the most interesting element of this dial design, however, is the main dial surface itself. With a graphite gray galvanically treated color, this muted surface sports a deep radially brushed finish. While radial brushing has become a popular alternative to sunburst finishing in recent years, the Mille Miglia 2021 Race Edition stands out from the crowd with its execution. Rather than centering the radial brushing in the middle of the dial beneath the main handset, the brushing instead radiates outward from the running seconds indicator at 9 o’clock. This asymmetrical look is immediately eye-catching in images, and cleverly continues the azurage pattern of the subdial itself. It’s an interesting and individualist choice, one which goes contrary to the common practice among 7750-based chronograph dials to de-emphasize the running seconds indicator as much as possible.
Chopard does not elaborate on the powerplant inside the Mille Miglia 2021 Race Edition beyond stating that it is an automatic chronograph movement and that it has been COSC chronometer-certified for accuracy. That said, based on the subdial layout, likely dimensions, and beat rate, it’s more than likely that this movement is an ETA/Valjoux 7750 or one of its many derivatives. The 7750 is a true stalwart of the watch industry, powering chronograph designs from a myriad of brands since 1974. Despite its age, the 7750 platform is still more than capable of reliability and accuracy, and in this application sports a serviceable 48-hour power reserve at a 28,800 bph beat rate. That said, some purists may be put off by the movement’s use at this price range, where many competitors use in-house chronograph movements. Chopard completes the Mille Miglia 2021 Race Edition with a black calfskin rally strap with red or black contrast stitching and a textured rubber inner lining with a pattern inspired by ‘50s Dunlop racing tires.
Chopard Mille Miglia 2021 Race Edition – Dalla sua rinascita nel 1977, la gara della 1000 Miglia continua ogni anno a far fremere i motori delle auto leggendarie e i cuori dei concorrenti lungo il percorso ad anello di 1.600 km che attraversa San Marino, Roma, Siena e Firenze.Chopard, Partner Principale e Orologio Ufficiale dell’evento dal 1988, rinnova anche quest’anno il suo impegno e presenta per l’occasione i cronografi Mille Miglia 2021 Race Edition. L’elegante segnatempo con movimento di precisione certificato “Cronometro”, disponibile in un’edizione limitata di 1.000 esemplari in acciaio inossidabile o in versione bicolore di 250 esemplari in acciaio inossidabile e oro etico rosa 18 carati, riflette la passione inalterabile di Chopard per gli sport motoristici.
L’edizione 2021 della 1000 Miglia, che si terrà dal 16 al 19 giugno, sarà la trentanovesima rievocazione storica della “corsa automobilistica più bella del mondo”. La prima edizione risalente al 1927 fu organizzata su iniziativa di un gruppo di appassionati di automobilismo di Brescia che risposero così al trasferimento del Gran Premio d’Italia nella città di Monza. Il percorso dell’edizione 2021 sarà un omaggio alla gara originale e, per la prima volta dalla rinascita della competizione nel 1977, il percorso si snoderà in senso antiorario. Saranno circa 400 le auto che si dirigeranno da Brescia verso la costa tirrenica, con una sosta a Viareggio, prima di toccare Roma, l’Appennino e Bologna.

Urwerk UR-100V

The Urwerk UR-100V Iron is the latest addition to the UR-100 series. The case is made of steel and titanium, while blue and white tones express meaning. Once again, the Swiss marque has conceived an avant-garde creation rich in horological virtue.
In 2019, Urwerk unveiled the UR-100 Iron and the UR-100 Black, two models endowed with a wandering hours display. A few months ago (May 2020), the Swiss luxury marque released a further version of the UR-100, housed in gold. Earlier this week, the brand added a fourth reference to this series, the UR-100V Iron. This latter timepiece is housed in steel and titanium and limited to just 25 pieces.

Throughout its history, Urwerk has cleverly played with colours, textures and finishes. It has recognised that its existing clients, as well as potential newbies, appreciate the choice. While a prospective client may reject the appearance of one model, an alternative colourway or modified specification can prove a tempting proposition.
However, nothing is quite as simple as it seems. Merely changing the text colour on the satellites or minute track or attaching a differently hued strap could be a recipe for failure. Martin Frei, Urwerk’s chief designer and co-founder, expends vast amounts of time optimising shades, playing with case materials and considering various finishes.

With the Urwerk UR-100V Iron, for example, the top of the case features a circular-brush that follows the contours of the neighbouring sapphire crystal. The sides of the case feature a straight-brush running horizontally along the case band. Meanwhile, the bevelled edges, bridging the tops and sides of the case, are highly polished.
Once again, the hours are shown using the brand’s beloved satellite system with the prevailing hour running against a minute track. Anyone who has worn an Urwerk will no doubt attest that the wandering hours and minutes indications are intuitive to use and prove very legible. While the hours and minutes employ blue tones to express meaning, a white track shows the distance travelled along the equator over a period of time, up to a maximum of 20 minutes.

Felix Baumgartner, Urwerk’s co-founder and watchmaker, has created an impressive body of work, harnessing ingenuity and traditional watchmaking skills. Furthermore, the Urwerk UR-100V Iron perpetuates the brand’s reputation for neoteric Haute Horlogerie.
URWERK has added a new watch to its UR-100 series. The UR-100V Iron comes cased in steel and titanium, monochrome and unadorned, to highlight its most delicate finish — all done by hand. No colours here but subtlety. Form and finish together create an ever-changing chiaroscuro over polished, matt, sanded and shot-peened surfaces.

Here is the UR-100V Iron!
“The main reason to fall in love with a watch is an emotional reaction to its looks,” declares Martin Frei, URWERK’s chief designer and co-founder. “Beyond the complexity of its mechanism we have tried to refine this watch as much as possible. The UR-100V Iron appears in all its naked glory, leaving only the light reflecting on the metal to reveal its beauty.”

In addition to URWERK’s trademark satellite configuration of the wandering hours and minutes, the UR-100V Iron brings your spin through space into sharp focus. When the minutes hand has completed its 60-minute journey, it reappears on a 20-minute scale of 555 kilometres. This is the distance you travel in 20 minutes if you are standing on the equator of our rotating planet. The opposite scale tracks your journey through space around the sun: 35,740km every 20 minutes.
In the display on the UR-100V Iron, time and distance are on a par, the hours and minutes in blue, and the kilometres in bright white. Watchmaker and URWERK’s co-founder, Felix Baumgartner, reveals that he got the idea from a clock given to him by his father, Geri, a noted restorer of antique clocks. “It was made by Gustave Sandoz for the Universal Exhibition of 1893. Instead of showing the time, it showed the distance travelled by a point on the equator.”

Under the UR-100’s dome, URWERK’s new calibre 12.02 drives the carousel carrying the wandering hours on three satellites. Felix Baumgartner says: “This new movement enabled a redesign of the carousel, bringing the hours closer to the minutes as they travel in succession along the 60-minute scale. The result is an easier and more intuitive reading of the time”. This carousel, as well as the structure on top of the hours, are forged from anodised aluminium then sanded and shot-blasted, while the satellite screws are each circular sanded. The satellites rest on a carousel of sanded brass plated in ruthenium. The structure on top of the hours display is in sanded and shot-blasted aluminium. The selfwinding rotor of the UR-100 is governed by a profiled airscrew known as the Windfänger.
There’s a nostalgic look about the case of the UR-100V Iron. Many owners of URWERK watches will recall the independent brand’s first models. “We have adopted some of the stylistic features of our first constructions, and then deconstructed them,” explains Martin Frei. “For example, the steel dome of our early models is now in transparent sapphire crystal. The hard outlines of the titanium and steel case highlight its perfection. Because I’m always at odds with the dictates of symmetry, I have used different proportions to catch the eye,” he concludes.

Patek Philippe Aquanaut Luce

Patek Philippe has recently updated its Aquanaut line. While I’m sure some will consider the Aquanaut a poor man’s Nautilus, this couldn’t be further from the truth. Partly because, well, it’s still a Patek Philippe and is still made to their demanding standards, but also because the prices on the pre-owned market for an Aquanaut are just as sky-high as they are for the Nautilus. Let’s dig in.

The first ones we’re going to look at split across the range of the seven new watches, with Patek Philippe introducing a new name to the Aquanaut lineup. Called ‘Luce’ (pronounced loo-chey), it’s the Italian word for ‘light’, which makes sense as it’s applied to the more petite feminine models of the collection.
The first three watches in the new collection fall under the reference 5726. These models all have a 38.8mm diameter case made of stainless steel. They also all come with a diamond-set bezel (a unique feature of the Luce Aquanauts) and are colour-coded. You can have one with either a black, white or khaki-coloured dial, all of which come with a colour-coded rubber strap with the signature blocky texture that’s been a hallmark of the Aquanaut range since its inception. These models come with a quartz E 23-250 S C calibre and are priced at $20,108.
The next model is also quartz-powered, but it has a twist. Falling under the reference 5269, it features the E23-250 S FUS 24H calibre, which is the first quartz movement from Patek Philippe to feature their travel time function, allowing you to tell the time in two different timezones simultaneously. This version of the travel time complication is controlled by the crown rather than some pushers, keeping with the theme of the elegant 38.8mm 18k rose gold case. The price for this model is $40,216.
Next up is the Aquanaut Luce reference 5268, which features an automatic movement instead of quartz. It also has a 38.8mm 18k rose gold case with a diamond-set bezel. Just like the other Luce models, this bezel features 1.11 carats of diamonds that are all cut, polished and set by hand. Inside the case is the self-winding calibre 26-330 S C which has a 4Hz beat rate, a power reserve of up to 45-hours and all the lovely finishing one could ever need. This one will cost $49,914.
The last two models are not Patek Philippe Aquanaut Luce pieces. They fly under the 5968G flag and are thoroughly sporty men’s chronograph timepieces. Patek Philippe is offering these in either khaki or blue/black gradient with a 42.2mm white gold case. Inside them is the CH 28-520 C, a flyback chronograph with a vertical clutch and a power reserve of up to 55-hours. Because of the extra complication on these models, and the chunky white gold case, the price for one is high at $69,194.
Pour yourself at least 48 ounces of coffee because, this morning, we have seven new Aquanauts to introduce, broken out across four main references. Ready? Take a deep breath: The lineup includes two new men’s Aquanaut Chronographs in white gold (5968G), three new diamond-set steel Aquanaut Luces with quartz movements (5267/200A), an automatic, diamond-set Aquanaut Luce in rose gold (5268/200R), and another rose gold diamond-set version featuring a new quartz travel-time movement (5269/200R). The defining feature of the ladies’ Patek Philippe Aquanaut Luce line is that diamond-set bezel – luce means “light ” in Italian. This is a significant refresh of the Aquanaut, particularly for the Luce, with updates to the collection’s most successful aspects, including that new Travel Time option. Nothing here feels like a radical departure, apart from a larger case size in the Luce – and even there it’s a size we’ve already seen in this fully blinged-out model. What’s most notable about the update is that it just hits so many watches all at once. The travel time is the single complication most associated with the Aquanaut, and now the Luce finally gets its own quartz Travel Time version. While you set the existing Aquanaut Travel Time via two prominent pushers on the side of the case, the new Luce Travel Time sets easily via the crown, which does not screw down (how’s that for poetry?). This watch, along with the trio of steel quartz Aquanaut Luces and the rose-gold Aquanaut Luce Automatic, come in a larger 38.8mm case size (compared to the 35.6mm size on the previous watches). We also have some new Aquanaut chronographs, a watch that’s existed in steel since 2018’s debut of the 5968A, which uses the same flyback chronograph movement. Now we have them in two new white-gold options that’ll make you do a double-take – I know I did. The new chronographs nicely mirror two existing white-gold time and date ref. 5168G options that also have khaki green and blue-black gradient dials. To my eye, the blue dial here appears a bit more blue-black in some pictures than others. You’ll notice an integrated strap, already standard on the men’s Aquanaut, but new for the Aquanaut Luce. Besides offering better visual coherence across all the models of the Aquanaut collection, men’s and women’s, it makes for a more genuinely sporty looking watch by emphasizing the curvature of the case and lugs. This is also emphasized by that bigger case. An evolution of the original Gerald Genta-designed Nautilus, the Aquanaut leans into its sport watch identity more willfully than the Nautilus. Its design feels more modern, with its composite strap echoing the patterned dial while retaining the spirit of the shaped case. While all of these watches are likely to do well, the two white-gold chronographs are the clear stars of the Aquanaut show. With the 5711 waving bye-bye this year, the next logical place for collectors to turn their attention is the Aquanaut.
Once rejected by watch enthusiasts, now one of the most sought-after Patek Philippe’s models, the Aquanaut is a major source of buzz for pretty much everyone. Therefore, it seemed inevitable that Patek would address the dearth of options for its female collectors sooner rather than later. Of course, Patek Philippe masterfully embraces not only the hottest color in the watch industry but also appeals to the serious watch lover with different types of movements. Let’s take a look at the five new iterations of the Aquanaut Luce, revealed earlier today.
How wonderful is it to admire such intriguing new releases? The women’s Patek Philippe Aquanaut Luce has been with us since 2004. Its debut came many years before green cracked the mainstream. However, the on-trend shade looks perfectly at home on the piece pictured above. The new collection boasts the classic silhouette, but these new colors (and some diamonds) steal the show.
From a design standpoint, the stainless steel variations ref. 5267/200A push the mainstream look to the max. The 38.8mm, rounded octagonal case turns this Patek’s world into a flash of diamonds while the typography on the dial, luminous coating on the hands, and numerals have a sportier appearance. Leading the collection is a characteristic of this model dial that builds on the Aquanaut pattern. The main shades in focus for this collection are olive green, matte white, and — the most classic option — black. All Patek watches ref. 5267/200A features the quartz movement Caliber E 23‑250 S C and are water-resistant up to 120m.

Oris Big Crown Hölstein Edition

Following up on last year’s inaugural “Holstein Edition” timepiece, an all- bronze version of its popular Divers Sixty-Five chronograph, Oris has unveiled the latest in its limited series of watches paying tribute to the Swiss village of its founding. The Big Crown Holstein Edition 2021 provides a novel take on Oris’s vintage-inspired Big Crown model, first produced in 1938.
Oris Big Crown Hölstein Edition 2021
Notably, it is the first Oris watch to contain a variation of the widely acclaimed, in-house Caliber 400 movement that is not a dive watch or a diver-style watch. Oris, has in fact, had a dive-watch-heavy year thus far, expanding its flagship, vintage-inspired, and professional lines over the last several months. The release of this second Holstein Edition indicates the brand is likely to continue the tradition of offering highly limited, exclusive models throughout its various product families in the years to come.
The sword hands and non-fluted bezel are new to the Big Crown collection.
The watch’s 38-mm, polished and brushed steel case, as with previous Big Crown models, appears to be well proportioned and geared toward a wide audience of enthusiasts. However, the new model does features some notable differences from the rest of the collection, including a smooth rather than a fluted bezel, and a flatter crystal over the dial as opposed to the domed crystal more often used on this and other Oris models. These changes, in addition to the watch’s signature oversized crown and traditional case shape, help provide the watch with an overall sportier feel — channeling more of a field watch style than the aviation-inspired style of the watch’s actual origins.
Red details contrast with the gray dial.
Underneath the flat sapphire crystal is a matte gray dial, which carries on the neo-vintage tradition of the Big Crown. Around the outermost edge, a printed ring from 1 to 31 displays the analog date, each point indicated via a red-arrow-tipped hand. A step closer to the interior, a railroad track minute ring outlines the legible, straightforward Arabic hour markers. This style is broken up only at the 6 o’clock position where a small subdial for the running seconds rests, its indicator also accented with a burst of bright red. At the center of the dial and passing over the various descriptors toward 12 o’clock are two lume-filled, sword style hands, which differ quite drastically from the bold cathedral-style handset previously put to use within the Big Crown collection.
The Oris bear graces the caseback as a relief engraving.
The Oris Caliber 403, which powers the new limited edition, is based upon the aforementioned Caliber 400 launched by the brand last year inside the Aquis Date Caliber 400. Like the base caliber, the 403 boasts a five-day power reserve, a relatively high level of anti-magnetism, and an industry-leading 10-year warranty. The movement, which differs from its base by its use of a 6 o’clock small seconds subdial and an analog date indicator, is protected behind a solid, commemorative caseback, its surface engraved with a motif of Oris’s bear mascot.
The red-tipped hand indicates the analog date.
Available now, the Oris Big Crown Hölstein Edition 2021