Ulysse Nardin Lady Diver Rainbow
Gem-setting isn’t typically the first thing you think about when you think about Ulysse Nardin. However, perceptions are always open to change. So, do these bejeweled beauties shown in Geneva this week indicate yet another strong direction for the Le Locle-based brand founded in 1846? Only time will tell.
The complex, skeletonized balancing act of geometric forms typical of the Ulysse Nardin Blast dial, including an eye-catching platinum micro-rotor at 12 o’clock, gets a colorful, harmonizing frame that tends to elevate and soften the overall presentation in the new 45mm Blast Rainbow. A total of 50 rubies and sapphire baguettes in a Roy G. Biv color spectrum adorn the bezel and hour indices of this otherwise all-black execution (via its black DLC titanium case, black polished ceramic upper case, waterproof black velvet rubber or black alligator strap, and black DLC titanium/ceramic deployant clasp). An automatic flying tourbillon at 6 o’clock counterbalances the chromatic uniqueness with some precision horology. Finally, the new piece is powered by the UN-172 movement. This movement leans heavily into silicium technology, especially in its escapement and balance spring, and delivers 72 hours of power reserve.
Part of the color story of the new Ulysse Nardin Lady Diver Rainbow models debuting at Geneva Watch Days is that you can get your hands on either an all-black or an all-white version. But that is only the beginning of the hue-heavy message. As the next generation of the Lady Diver, first introduced in 2019, these new 39mm timepieces defy the term “tool watch.” Their specs, however, check all the boxes: a rugged stainless steel case (black-toned stainless for the black version), 300-meter water resistance, a workhorse UN-816 automatic movement, and a unidirectional numbered dive bezel…Well, sort of numbered. While the bezel sports numerals for the important dive intervals (0, 15, 30, and 45 minutes), it also sports an incredible rainbow display of 40 precious gems (ruby, aquamarine, topaz, tsavorite, and sapphire). Plus, there are the 11 diamonds serving as hour indices. Of course, as befits a Ulysse Nardin Lady Diver Rainbow watch, 12 o’clock is indicated with a lumed bar index. The white version sports a shimmering silver dial that plays well with the surrounding jewels and is offered on a structured rubber strap or white alligator strap. Perfect for a Bond villainess, the black version brings on the full-pop of the gemstone colors with an inky dark black dial, and either a black structured rubber or black alligator strap completes the story.