Category: Breitling Watches
The name Breitling always seems to stir a certain sense of awe and prestige whenever I hear it. It is certainly a name many watch connoisseurs have heard along their journey in time (forgive the puns). Not only is this Swiss giant famed for its Aviator brand, it has also redesigned its Avenger range of rugged, powerful and yet simply elegant watches. Reviewing this new Breitling Avenger collection certainly sets a bold precedent for future releases.
Being a premium household name in the aviation industry, Breitling has found itself amongst the machinery, clocks and flight equipment aboard counteless aircrafts since the 1930s. Debuting in 2001, the Avenger collection immediately stood apart with its rugged durability and bold dials. With the recent cull of the Breitling Colt, it was great to hear that the Avenger collection is here to stay, with this latest revamp certainly positioning it as one of Breitling’s key pieces. Ear-marked for its performance, it seems only fitting that Breitling Avenger Automatic GMT decided to launch one of its boldest collections into the modern era of aviation.
The Breitling Avenger Automatic GMT collection now comes in 14 new references, 3 case sizes (43mm to 48mm), some colorways and various strap options. Although targeted to pilots and aviation personnel, I believe the Avenger collection would also suit adventurous individuals with a busy, stylish, yet purposeful lifestyle.
Watches come in different dials and sizes and some better than others, fortunately in the case of Breitling, you can be assured that they aren’t cutting any corners when it comes to their watches. In their bid to keep high standards of quality, Breitling have ensured that their Avenger collection of watches all come with Super-LumiNova luminescent hour, minute, and second hands providing an after-glow in the dark (great for all the late sleepers).
So what is Super-LumiNova I hear you say? Well it is luminous material developed by the Swiss to create non-radioactive and highly temperature resistant after-glow in watches. Unlike traditional luminous material such as radium and promethium, Super-LumiNova is said to suffer no ageing (meaning it doesn’t lose its glow after a number of years). This is because it works like a light storage battery, absorbing sunlight or artificial light, using this to power glow emitted at night.
This came as quite a strong positive and selling point for the Avenger collection, as many might know that previous luminous watch pigments contained radioactive elements, which we can all agree is slightly unnerving to hear. Although the radiation levels are almost non-existent, having a non-radioactive option brings much more confidence. All Avenger watches come with a three-register dial, a date window at 3 o’clock and Super-LumiNova luminous-coated hands and numerals. The Chronograph variants however, also include subdials at 12, 6, and 9 o’clock. There is also a choice of dial number register, either as simple indices or military-style stencil-type numbers. Depending on the watch, the dials also come in one of three colours – black, blue, yellow or green. Personally, I’m not the biggest fan of the yellow dial as it does seem a bit too military for me, but I can see where it could appeal to others. For me, the blue dial wins all the time – classy, simple, yet striking.
The Breitling Avenger Automatic GMT collection comes in a range or 43-48mm which should be fine for most, although those with smaller wrists may find it a little clunky at first. There is a choice of stainless steel or DLC-coated titanium (only with Night-mission variants) as material, with the latter being more durable. All Avenger references are water resistance up to 30 bar (300 metres) apart from the clearly specialised Avenger Automatic 45 Seawolf and Seawolf Night Mission variants, which are water resistant up to 300 bar (3000 metres). Seems a bit of an overkill to me, however this brand is targeted toward aviation/military personnel who may have occasions in which that feature is necessary. All the watches in the Avenger collection also come with convex sapphire crystal glass and double anti-reflective coating, meaning there is minimal surface reflection. A word of warning, those who are regular watch polishers should be careful, as I’ve had experiences whereby polishing the case can remove the anti-reflective coating if it gets on the crystal. As most Breitlings have their AR coatings on the outer casing trying to fix scratch marks can become quite costly, in some cases you may need the crystal replaced.
All Avenger watches also come with a steel screwed back caseback, except for the Night Mission variants which have screwed DLC-coated titanium casebacks. Due to the need for optimum water-resistance, all the Avenger watches come with dual gasket screw lock crowns. It is clear that the features for the casing of the Avenger watches are geared towards activity, especially marine related.
The bezel on the watches are unidirectional and ratcheted. This means that the bezel gets locked in position unless a certain amount of force is applied by hand. This is a very useful safety feature for deep-sea and scuba divers, although I’m not sure how practical it would be in day-to-day life. I could just be over-reacting.
As with any premium watch, after the initial aesthetic pleasure has worn off, the wearability factor kicks in. How does it feel on the wrist? What is the strap like? Is performance up to scratch? (I promise, no more puns). Breitling is often known for its powerful movement and durability and does not seem to disappoint either with the Avenger collection. The watches as standard are COSC-certified and use the Breitling Calibre 13, 17 (Seawolf variant) and 32 (GMT complication) for movement. For those who are unaware of what this indicates, these are related to the movement power of the watches and grading. Breitling mentions that for the highest level of performance, they use the highest grade parts for the entire movement, assembling the calibre carefully rather than having it pre-made. While all of that sounds like great marketing to me, my main focus is having a functioning time piece with a long life and fortunately, the Breitling Avenger watches all come with a power reserve of between 38-42 hours. All 17 and 32 calibre Avenger watches come with a self winding, mechanical, bi-directional winder with ball-bearing. The 13 calibre variants however are unilateral. Personally, I prefer my watch to have a bi-directional winder as the free-movement on unidirectional rotors can make them a little noisy. The anthracite, khaki green or blue leather military strap options add a very open, outdoors feel to the collection. Designed to be more hard-wearing, these are clearly geared towards those who will spend the majority of their time outside and active. The collection has however not forgotten the less active but equally stylish audience by offering those who desire it, the classic stainless-steel strap with folding clasp.
Breitling is no stranger to adversity. Amid a pandemic, Breitling has faced the challenge of maintaining a fixed release schedule and executing a global communication strategy head-on. A successful webcast that may have had a few technical hiccups but still got the message across. Better still, it came at a fraction of the cost for what Breitling would have spent for a Baselworld booth.
Now Breitling is gearing up for Geneva Watch Days. But just before the first major “fair” since COVID broke kicks off in earnest, we have a little teaser for you. That teaser comes in the shape of the Endurance Pro collection of watches. For a long time, the focus of the brand has been on classic styles and heritage capsules. I speak on behalf of the Fratelli when I say it is great to see new additions to the Professional range. At least half of our team members have a Breitling Aerospace or two, which forms the backbone of the SuperQuartz-powered Professional. It was touch and go whether the pilot’s partner watch would ever see any new models.
Some years back, Breitling presented its first attempt to break into the entry-level market with the Colt Skyracer. This was during the final years of the Schneider-era and it kind of showed the design team was running out of ideas. The Skyracer came with the then-new Breitlight case material that was virtually scratch-resistant and super light. At €2,000, it certainly presented a tempting proposition. But cut corners (such as really weak dial printing) really diminished the impact this piece could have had. The expected Swiss quality of a Breitling was lacking. The piece, while cool, did not exude any kind of value. The flat dial and emotionless case shape did not conjure much excitement to entice would-be buyers or long-standing collectors.
The Breitlight case material had plenty of potential, though. The 100% Swiss-made composite hs already enjoyed some success. It was used for the case of the Avenger Hurricane, for both the 24-hour and 12-hour variations. Despite the obvious comparisons to other plastic watches such as G-Shocks and Swatches, anyone who held and caressed the Breitlight finishing can immediately let go of any preconceptions. The lightness was apparent — 5.8 times lighter than steel — but what I took away was the smoothness of the hypoallergenic texture. Even long after my first exposure.
After a reasonable hiatus, the Breitlight case material returns in the form of the Endurance Pro. What we get with the new collection are bright, exuberant color accents, ultra-lightweight cases, and SuperQuartz chronograph complications. Each variation has a color-coordinated Diver Pro rubber straps with non-screw-down molded crown grip, pulsometer rehaut, and a start/stop pusher ring. In white, yellow, red, orange, and blue, the vibrant selection is beach-ready. Let’s pray for an Indian summer and a for travel restrictions to be eased further to make the most of it…
The bold numerals, especially the 3-6-9 indices, fill the blank spaces of the dial while also biting chunks out of the chronograph sub-dials. Occupying the area at 12 o’clock is the winged logo that thankfully is embossed rather than printed as it was on the Colt Skyracer. Adding the date at 4:30 is a sore spot, but, overall, I am pleased with the depth and balance the dial brings along with the compass-scale bidirectional bezel. The Breitling Caliber 82 is sourced from ETA and modified to be thermo-compensated to handle temperature variations and regulate ten times more accurately than standard quartz.
But the real purpose of the Endurance Pro is for sports activities. Coalescing with the Breitling Endurance Pro Strava Challenge, worldwide participants can enroll in their sport of choice to compete to win a watch, bike, or jersey. The challenge is to complete 500 minutes of activity from 26 August 2020. A random group of competitors will be selected to win these prizes. The Endurance Pro is more than up to the task of swimming, cycling, running, or hiking. Mostly thanks to the 100-meter water-resistance and lightweight 44mm case. With a proportionate height of 12.5mm, the size of the case on the wrist is not too demanding either.
I can see the Endurance Pro as an attainable watch for those just entering the hobby who lust for a well-known Swiss brand. Connoisseurs may also view the Endurance Pro as an excellent way to wear a Breitling during rough and tough exertions without fear of scratching the housing or damaging the movement. You can learn more about the new Breitling Endurance Pro here.
Introducing the Breitling Endurance Pro Sky Blue X82310281B1S1
The brand-new 2021 Breitling Endurance Pro sports a bright blue strap. The color is echoed in the pulsometer scale on the outer edge of the dial, as well as on the crown and the start-top pusher at 2:00. The resulting look is fresh and vibrant. The perfect watch for summer 2021!
The 44mm case of the Breitling Endurance Pro is made of Breitlight, a high-tech lightweight yet strong composite material. The bidirectional bezel -engraved with a compass scale- is made of the same material, as is the pin buckle. The Breitling Endurance Pro is powered by caliber B82, a thermo-compensated SuperQuartz movement with chronograph and date. It is ten times more precise than regular quartz and offers a battery life of approximately three to four years
Breitling’s latest seasonal creation for women is a fresh reincarnation of a classic. What started as a 1950s divers’ watch has evolved into a fashionable timepiece for women ready to jump into summer!
The Breitling Superocean Heritage ’57 Pastel Paradise Capsule Collection is all about color, proportion, and of course substance. Its 38-mm stainless-steel case features a rotating bezel and bold indices. It’s the very essence of summer style.
“This modern-retro tribute to the original SuperOcean is an exciting addition to the Breitling family of ladies’ watches. Of course it’ll look great at work, but its fun-in-the-sun vibe might make you want to spend a weekend at the beach,” says Breitling CEO Georges Kern, noting how the highly-coveted original was a nod to the rising popularity of seaside leisure in the 1950s and 1960s. That laid-back vibe is reflected in the sunny dials of today’s Pastel Paradise – enjoying the moment with your hair blowing in the breeze.
The palette for this seasonal women’s Capsule Collection is summer white, aquamarine, mint green, and iced latte – all with tone-on-tone dials, bezels, and straps. But the real show-stopper is the rainbow tangerine version. With hour markers and hands coated in Super-LumiNova, it sings in hues of yellow, green, blue, indigo, violet, red, and orange. If you want a custom color combination, you’ll love the quick-exchange system for swapping out the luxe Saffiano calfskin leather straps, which also come in lemon and raspberry sorbet.
At the heart of each watch beats the COSC-certified Breitling Caliber 10 with a power reserve of about 42 hours. And even if these timepieces seem too elegant for exploring a coral reef, it’s good to know that they’re water resistant up to 100 meters.
One look at this collection and you might be thinking: “It’s always summer somewhere.” But even the best summers have to end sometime. The Superocean Heritage ’57 Pastel Paradise Capsule Collection will be produced for a limited time during this summer season only. Just something to keep in mind whether you prefer sunrise yoga on the beach or socializing over sundowners.
The colorful Breitling Superocean Heritage ’57 Pastel Paradise Capsule Collection is also a perfect fit for a mood board challenge with Breitling’s partner DREST, the world’s first interactive luxury fashion mobile game. This highly immersive game puts players in the role of fashion stylists choosing clothing and accessories from over 200 leading global fashion brands.
The third Breitling–DREST mood board challenge goes live on Monday, June 28, 2021,
at 1:00 p.m. GMT, and will run for three days (72 hours). Join the challenge here.
As with all the other fashion items featured in DREST, there is the option for users to seamlessly shop the Breitling pieces they have played and competed with in the game – creating a fun and interactive modern-day shopping experience.
With the launch of the Breitling Superocean Heritage ’57 Capsule Collection early in 2020, Breitling has been at the forefront of injecting color into its watchmaking, in a season when nearly everyone in the industry seems to be out to create colorful executions. On first sight, a lot of these watches will seem unlikely candidates for more vibrant color palates. The collecting community, however, seems to have been unanimous in their approval of these. And why not, with the world just now, having to deal with the many realities of coming out from a year in isolation, color and cheer are possibly going to be more important for this generation than ever before.
Breitling dived head first into more colors as it introduced the Chronomat Automatic 36 South Sea Capsule Collection and, what appears to be a first, brought the color mint green onto the dial of a watch. The mint green was then spotted soon after on the Premier B09 Chronograph 40, this time termed as pistachio green. And now with the launch of their latest, the Superocean Heritage ’57 Pastel Paradise Capsule Collection, we see a more subdued version of the mint/pistachio and several new colors on the dials of these watches, befitting of the collection’s name. Before we run through the details on these, first a note on the term “Capsule Collection”.
Breitling started using the term with Chronomat Automatic 36 South Sea Capsule Collection, earlier in 2021. The idea there being that the collection would be produced for a very limited period. Therein, making the collection limited, not by numbers, but the time in which Breitling would commit itself to producing the collection. The same will now be applied to the Breitling Superocean Heritage ’57 Pastel Paradise Capsule Collection.
The Breitling Superocean Heritage ’57 Pastel Paradise Capsule Collection consists of five executions of the Superocean Heritage ’57 in an 38mm diameter and 9.35mm thick stainless-steel case, with cambered sapphire on the dial-side and caseback. Speaking about the collection, Breitling CEO, Georges Kern says, “This modern-retro tribute to the original SuperOcean is an exciting addition to the Breitling family of ladies’ watches. Of course, it’ll look great at work, but its fun-in-the-sun vibe might make you want to spend a weekend at the beach.” To which it’s important to say that at 38mm, the watch sits at a versatile size enough that in present day’s sizing inclinations, many gents are bound to enquire about the watch. Also, fun colors and all aside, the Breitling still has made it a point to have the Breitling Superocean Heritage ’57 Pastel Paradise Capsule Collection COSC certified.
Today Breitling has released the new, bigger brother to its popular Chronomat. The new Super Chronomat is the boldest and, perhaps most ambitious, addition to the Swiss brand’s sports chronograph collection. Breitling says that the Breitling Super Chronomat is the “ultimate choice for those who want a timepiece mastering the balance between sturdy and stylish”. Marketing spiel aside, I’m inclined to agree, as my initial impression is that they look incredibly sturdy, and they’re also rather stylish to boot. Of course, I’d expect nothing less from a Breitling — just look at that stunning Four Year Calendar model!
The Frecce Tricolori watch that Breitling created for the hotshots of the Italian Air Force’s aerobatic fleet in 1983 provided the inspiration for the Super Chronomat. The Frecce Tricolori Chronomat was a classy little number in its own right, and Ben bought one when it was first released last year. It marked a waistline reduction from 44mm to 42mm and refreshed 2018’s Chronomat reboot. Breitling has now seen fit to reintroduce the 44m case size, to complement the 42mm.
In keeping with the original Chronomat, Breitling kept the signature riders tabs at the cardinal points on the unidirectional bezel. Thus, they have the added benefit of helping protect the large sapphire crystal from harm. But, of course, with AR coating on the outer surface and the inner, any help protecting the Super Chronomat’s crystal from scratches is more than welcome. Wearers also can switch up the 15 and 45 markers to change the bezel function from count-up to count-down. It’s a subtle touch, and I always say, “it’s nice to have something you don’t use than not having it at all”.
As the name might suggest, the Breitling Chronomat B01 44 is the next size up from its smaller 42mm brother. The 44mm case adds a little extra heft for those who like to physically feel the sturdiness of their watch. There are three primary “flavors” of the B01 44. Two are cased in stainless steel with an option of blue or black dial/bezel combinations. The third is a rich chocolatey-brown dial/bezel combination with a case in 18kt red gold. The bezels all use ceramic inserts – a first on a Chronomat. All models feature contrasting silver chronograph counters powered by the COSC-certified Breitling Manufacture Caliber 01, which provides about 70 hours of power reserve. To top off its go-anywhere-do-anything personality, the Super Chronomat is water-resistant up to 200 meters.
For those wanting something a little unusual, there’s a black dial version of the Super Chronomat with a UTC-module embedded in a Rouleaux bracelet. Referring to Universal Time Coordinated, this provides a way to keep track of an additional time zone and is a quirky Breitling feature dating back to the 1980s. It’ll add a bit more weight to what is already a reasonably chunky watch, but looks alone make it totally worth it.
Breitling offers wearers a choice of two strap options for the Super Chronomat. For the bracelet lovers among us, the classic Rouleaux bracelet, or for a more edgy and sporty look, there is a new Rouleaux-inspired rubber strap available in blue, black, or brown, with a butterfly clasp. I have only seen the images so far, but the strap looks great. On paper, I don’t like the sound of a bracelet-inspired watch strap, but the design team seems to have done a slap-up job.
The Chronomat’s new rubber strap is created with state-of-the-art injection molding techniques. The three distinct textures give it remarkable depth without looking tacky. I wear many of my watches on rubber straps, so I’d love to see this one in the flesh sometime. The blue dial/bezel on the blue rubber is probably my pick of the bunch so far!
Breitling decided it was not content with the B01 44 being the life and soul of the Super Chronomat party. So, it also introduced a complicated annual calendar version, named the Breitling Super Chronomat 44 Four Year Calendar. It may not be the catchiest of names, but it’s straight to the point! The Four Year Calendar has an annual calendar date complication that only needs adjusting once every leap year. That is once every 1461 days.
This nifty little number comes in two versions. Firstly a black dial with tone-on-tone chronograph counters, stainless-steel bezel with a black ceramic bezel insert, and 18tk red gold elements. The other option? A fetching blue dial featuring tone-on-tone chronograph counters and a bezel in 18kt red gold with a blue ceramic insert. The Breitling Caliber 19 powers this timepiece; a COSC-certified chronograph movement with a semi-perpetual calendar with a moonphase indicator.
In all, the Super Chronomat is an excellent addition to the Chronomat stable. Breitling has made a supercharged, all-purpose sports watch that’s elegant enough for the evening as well. Pricing starts from €8,150 (full breakdown below). You can find out more on Breitling’s website.
Remember Travolta? Remember Beckham? Remember the weirdly sexist undertones of a brand that for the longest while couldn’t quite seem to pin down who it was trying to make watches for and how to talk to them? In case you still do, it might finally be time to go ahead and forget this awkward period of now-ancient history in the grand scheme of Breitling‘s meteoric return to relevance. As Breitling CEO Georges Kern continues to put distance between his brand direction and that of his predecessors from the Schneider Era, he’s this time leaning on the brand’s own original founding managers for inspiration to yield a trio of new references: a traditional handwound chronograph, a ‘rattrapante’ or split second chronograph, and a complete calendar chronograph, that together comprise the newly christened Premier Heritage Collection.
The original Breitling Premier replica collection was more or less Kern’s flag in the sand when he assumed a leadership role at the brand back in 2017. Purpose-built around in-house calibres and leveraging original designs with more complex, premium finishing, the Premier was positioned as a more grown-up Breitling and a return to form – a capstone collection of sorts at the top of the brand’s then-newly consolidated offerings. ABTW Managing Editor Bilal Khan called the inaugural Premier “a thoughtful, detail-rich chronograph that exceeded expectations” in his long-term 2019 review right here. This new heritage-inspired spin-off collection appears to continue to adhere to that same formula, albeit with a more classical, mid-century twist that echoes the handsome original Premier watches introduced by Willy Breitling in the 1940s.
Here, we have colorful, beautifully rendered dials (typography nerds will have a lot to appreciate) with applied arabic numerals and a much more traditional approach to chronograph movement execution – perhaps just as Willy Breitling himself would have once wanted it. And yes, that’s indeed a complete calendar in the mix. Indeed, it’s a strikingly intelligent offering and a far cry from the Breitling that many might have once known, but as the brand continues to mature and peel back the many layers of its back catalog, we learn something that Breitling scholars have known all along: before the advent of the jet age, and before sport diving became mainstream, the brand enjoyed a rich period of very elegant, classical chronographs around the middle of the last century that fully embraced watchmaking’s more traditional values.
Regardless of design intent, the modern Breitling watch tends to be more of a sporty expression, so to bring the two value systems of two entirely different eras together, we’ve got slightly upsized cases (40mm for the standard handwound chronograph, and 42mm for the split second & complete calendar variants) and 100 meters of water resistance for each. The latter feature is a particularly interesting development – just how many complete calendar chronographs can you name that have more than a paltry 30 or 50 meters of water resistance? This particular combination of complications is already a relatively rare one (Jaeger-LeCoultre, Parmigiani, Blancpain, and IWC each have something that comes close), but wrapped up here in a beautiful salmon dial and finished with enough water resistance to make this a proper everyday wearer makes this particular reference one hell of an interesting proposition.
While the automatic calibre B25-powered Breitling Premier Datora 42 complete calendar (refresher: that’s hour, minute, second, day, date, month, and moonphase) might get most of the spotlight this week, the sneaky show-stealer might be the entry-level Breitling Premier B09 Chronograph 40 which pays tribute to the Léon Breitling’s earliest chronographs which pioneered the implementation of a tachymeter scale for measuring speed. A deceptively simple affair clad in a truly gorgeous “Pistachio” green dial, this reference is powered by Breitling’s manufacture B09 handwound chronograph movement, which we’ve seen rolled out in a smattering of offerings thus far, including the 1959 Navitimer re-issue and the AVI ref. 765 re-issue.
The third option in the trio – the Breitling B15 Duograph 42 uses Breitling’s B15 manufacture calibre, which is interesting as it’s essentially the B03 split-second chronograph movement, albeit in handwound form. This enables designers to produce a functionally similar watch in a considerably more wearable 42mm package. Like the other two new options in the collection, you’ll have both stainless steel, and precious red gold options to choose from – each with their own unique dial color and color-matched strap.
Swiss watch giants Breitling are largely associated with their pilots’ watches, chronometers and chronographs for men, however, since Georg Kern assumed the role of CEO in 2017, the Grenchen-based manufacturer has endeavoured to expand its appeal, particularly in their luxury watches for women. Over the past twelve months in particular, Breitling’s focus on their ladies’ collections has not gone unnoticed. From the Navitimer 35 to the Superocean 36 and their more recent Chronomat 32 and 36 Ladies watches, these feminine designs have captured all the right attention and now, Breitling have expanded their women’s line once again, this time with a capsule collection named the replica Breitling Chronomat 36 South Sea.
Last year, the iconic Breitling Chronomat was redesigned after a solid four to five years of little to no changes to the collection. Its resurrection took inspiration from the original Chronomat of the 1980’s with interchangeable rider tabs on the bezel, brushed stainless steel cases and the legendary Rouleaux bracelet. We also saw some fantastic improvements including the in-house manufacture B01 automatic winding movement housed at its core. Following on from the new men’s Breitling Chronomat range, the Swiss brand then unveiled an elegant series of Chronomat ladies watches in 32 and 36mm. Dressed in a choice of diamonds, colourful dials and 18 carat rose gold, the collection was well-received by women looking for a watch that was just as elegant as it was adventurous.
Today, the modern-retro aesthetics of the Chronomat are transformed again, this time with new exotic colourways and dazzling coloured gemstones. The Breitling Chronomat 36 South Sea collection consists of three models in total, each differing in their dial and strap design. The first reference A10380611A1P1 boasts a pinkish beige lacquered dial inspired by the pastel shades of summer with a matching beige alligator leather strap. The second under reference A10380611C1P1 has a deep blue lacquered dial and strap designed to evoke marine life. The third reference is model A10380611L1P1 which with its stunning mint green lacquered dial and green khaki alligator leather strap takes inspiration from our world’s lush greenery. All dials are detailed with rose gold Superluminova hands and indexes and diamond dot hour markers.“This colourful and exclusive new capsule collection – to be produced for a limited time only – is aimed at more fashion-forward women of action, purpose, and style,” notes Breitling CEO Georges Kern.
Other than their dial and strap colourway, each Breitling Chronomat 36 South Sea replica watch follows suit in their case size, case material, movement, and functionality. Measuring to 36mm in diameter and 10.1mm in height, the stainless steel cases promise a 100 metre water resistance with non-screw locked crowns, solid screwed case backs and cambered sapphire crystal glass with anti-reflective treatment on both sides. Characteristic of the Breitling Chronomat, the South Sea Ladies models are also kitted out with unidirectional ratcheted bezels that are for the first time adorned with an array of coloured gemstones in red, pink, orange and yellow.On the technical side, the Breitling ladies’ watches are powered by the Breitling Calibre 10 automatic winding movement. Based on the ETA 2892-A2, the movement has been COSC certified to be accurate to 4 to +6 seconds per day and delivers classic central hands for hours, minutes and seconds, a date window at 6 o’clock, a 42 hour power reserve and a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour.
Alongside the release of the Breitling Chronomat 36 South Sea Ladies watches, for the first time, Breitling have teamed up with DREST, an interactive luxury fashion mobile game. The game puts players in the role of fashion stylists who can choose clothing and accessories from over 200 leading global fashion brands. Now included in this portfolio is Breitling and the new Chronomat Automatic 36 South Sea Capsule collection which can be played and shopped directly in game.
If you’d like to learn more about the Breitling Chronomat 36 South Sea replica collection and other new Breitling watch releases, head over to the Jura Watches website here or get in touch with the team on
Specifications: Breitling Chronomat 36 South Sea Ladies Watches (A10380611A1P1, A10380611C1P1, A10380611L1P1)
Last Thursday, we witnessed the very first Breitling Summit 2020 Webcast where the Swiss manufacturer announced a stunning range of Breitling watch releases. For us, the star of the show was the Breitling Chronomat B01 42 collection which features an all new and improved design inspired by one of the brand’s most legendary Chronomat models released in 1984.
For as long as we can remember, the Breitling Chronomat has held a significant place in the brand’s history. It was first released in the 1940’s and was one of the first in the world to boast a slide-rule bezel. Nevertheless, for most watch aficionados, the most notable Chronomat was one released in 1984 during a time when extra-thin quartz watches were the order of the day. In 1983, Breitling released the Frecce Tricolori chronograph, a mechanical timepiece designed in collaboration with the Italian aerial squadron of the same name. Its versatility was evident as its tachymeter scale caught the interest of Formula 1 teams anda its reversable rider tabs made it the perfect watch for regattas. Then for the 100th anniversary of Breitling in 1984, Ernest Schneider decided to create a new icon which he saw in the face of the Chronomat Frecce Tricolori.
Rather than following the herd and designing another quartz watch, Schneider took the courageous path and went against the increasing dominance of thin quartz watches with the release of an all-new Bretiling Chronomat. The 1984 watch became a huge success and was a key influence in bringing mechanical watches on trend again. This time, the name Chronomat expressed something entirely different, with the combination of words “chronograph” and “automatic” making up its name. The new collection of Breitling Chronomat B01 42 watches for 2020 pay tribute to their predecessor with a reinstated vintage Rouleaux bracelet, interchangeable rider tabs on the bezel and the staple Breitling B01 in-house mechanical movement.
Although not an entirely faithful re-edition, the Breitling Chronomat B01 42 has managed to balance the perfect amount of vintage aesthetic with modern improvements. The 42mm stainless steel case looks almost exact to the original with integrated lugs, robust shoulders, and a bevelled rounded crown. The pushers and crown protection have been modernised slightly for better integration and to improve the water resistant rating to 200 metres.The Rouleaux bracelet is one of our favourite additions to the design, fully transforming the piece from just another modern sports watch to a vintage-inspired piece. The rifle-shell style links are bound together by polished inner links that blend seamlessly through the case and lugs. You’d be forgiven for mistaking the bracelet as integrated, but the Breitling Chronomat B01 42 is also available on a choice of rubber straps.
Another signature element is the addition of the interchangeable rider tabs on the unidirectional ratcheted bezel. Available in stainless steel, 18 carat gold or two toned with rose gold tabs, the bezel of the Breitling Chronomat B01 42 watch showcases interchangeable rider tabs at positions 15 and 45. This means that the wearer can choose whether they want to use the timepiece to count up or count down. The choice of bezel material is also reflected in the case design also available in stainless steel or 18 carat rose gold.
Housed within the case is the indispensable Breitling B01 in-house automatic mechanical movement. The 47 jewelled COSC certified calibre provides classic central hands for hours, minutes and seconds, a date window at 6H and three subsidiary dials for continuous seconds, 12 hour counter and 30 minutes counter. The movement also promises a frequency of 28,800 vph and a power reserve of 70 hours. The functions are displayed on an array of dial colours including anthracite, blue, copper, black, silver or British Racing Green dials (the latter being a Bentley edition).
The first pieces of the 2020 Breitling Chronomat B01 42 watch collection are expected to be available at the end of April with more pieces coming out late May. For the impatient of us, you can pre-order any of these models in advance on the Jura Watches website. Be one of the first to take delivery of the new Breitling Chronomat B01 42 watches at Jura Watches today with interest free finance and free delivery available.
Specifications: Breitling Chronomat B01 42 Watches
Breitling Avenger is a strong line within their current collection. The new(ish) Super Avenger Chronograph 48 Night Mission was one which caught our eye when it was introduced. Here is our hands on review, with some wallpaper sized Watchscapes.The Avenger and Super Avenger line are self-winding mechanical watches available in both time only (like the Avenger Automatic 45 Seawolf) and chronographs with 300m depth rating. The Avenger and Super Avenger share almost all physical and technical features, the only difference is the size. The Avenger is smaller with a case diameter of 45mm and thickness of 17.4m, while the Super Avenger is larger at 48mm case diameter, and a thickness of 18.6mm.Breitling Super Avenger Chronograph 48 Night Mission The Super Avenger Chronograph 48 Night Mission is a bold, robust and shock resistant watch which has a strong wrist presence, not only due to the large case dimensions, but also the imposing design. As a true Breitling Avenger, it is designed to be used wearing gloves, featuring a rugged bezel and its special grip-pattern on the crown & chronograph pushers.
The case, dial and hands
The Night Mission interpretation of the Super Avenger Chronograph 48 is a large 48mm DLC coated titanium case, a blue dial and a blue military strap that fits either a DLC coated stainless steel pin buckle or deployant clasp. Despite the case’s rather massive dimensions, it wears smaller, and wraps around the average male wrist with comfort and ease. The soundbyte from Georges Kern, CEO of Breitling comes to mind, paraphrased – “I don’t have a large wrist. And if I am not able to wear the watch comfortably, it does not get approved.”The dial is a beautiful dark, almost navy blue, and is marked with Arabic numerals with thick SuperLuminova. The design of the arabic numerals are similar to the stenciled numbers used on the decks of aircraft carriers.The design of the hands are also with the purpose to optimize legibility. The hands are large and coated with superluminova. The sub-dial layout of the chronograph is typical of a Valjoux 7750 sourced movement, and indeed the Breitling Caliber B13 is a variant of the Valjoux with the day of the week wheel removed.Though the sapphire crystal features anti-reflective coating on both sides, or rather because the front is multi-coated, a strong blue reflection of the (white) flash of our strobe is caught on the photographs. This is because the anti-reflective coatings are designed only to block certain wavelengths of light.
The case back is closed, and engraved with the Breitling Avenger logo and verbiage, including the stated Chronometer Certification (COSC). The entire case, crown, pushers and screw down back is in black DLC Titanium.As mentioned, the movement is the Breitling Caliber B13, which is a derivative of the robust and well tested Valjoux 7750. This is a workhorse movement, with many watches using it reliably. The movement has a standard power reserve of 42 hours and beats at 28,800 bph. The rotor winds only in one direction, and allows the rotor to move freely in the other direction, earning it the nickname “wobbler” as the rotor can be felt as one wears it and move one’s wrist.
We did not open the case back to examine the movement finishing, but at this price point, we are not expecting it to be magnificently decorated, but to sport a rugged mechanically sound engineering type finish.Competitive Landscape
In this price class, the Breitling Super Avenger Chronograph 48 Night Mission (retail price is S$7,890) lives in a rather crowded landscape. Even if we filter out non-military or aviation designs, the field remains quite well populated. The Breitling Avenger Chronograph 45 Night Vision (S$7.890, same price) is almost exactly the same, except for the case size of 45mm. One curiosity we found is that neither the Avenger or Super Avenger series use the in-house developed Breitling B01 movement, depending on the Valjoux 7750 instead.Trying out the wrist shot in black and white for some attitude. Truth be told, the sapphire glass had a bright blue reflection due to the anti-reflective coating, that made the photograph unusable in colour. The promo shot of the pilot serves as the colour wrist shot.Concluding Thoughts
In conclusion, the Breitling Super Avenger Chronograph 48 Night Mission has a raison d’être it occupies a niche for those who require very special properties – a large, robust, legible chronograph which is lightweight but very strong, and with a diving water resistance rating.
On a pilot’s wrist, it certainly looks the part. Image source: Breitling official.
The watch is very beautiful, and fits the rugged environment which it is intended for. The black DLC titanium case is light, and surprisingly comfortable on the average sized wrist. The blue dial is magnificent in its own right, and the huge markings with bright lume is very attractive. The ease of use due to the design of the bezel and crown/pushers is a big plus, as is the water resistance rating. And we think the asking price of just a shade below S$8k is quite reasonable.
Breitling Super Avenger Chronograph 48 Night Mission Specifications
Swiss watch company Breitling recently held one of its still-new Breitling Summit event concepts here in Los Angeles. One of the new references launched was this duo of GMT watches, the Breitling Avenger Automatic GMT 45 (reference A32395101C1A1 or A32395101C1X1 / A32395101C1X2) and the related Avenger Automatic GMT 45 Night Mission (reference V32395101B1X1 / V32395101B1X2).
First, a tangent about the brand’s activities. I’ve said multiple times recently that the brand has been one of the best performing luxury watch companies over the last 18 months, due to the re-energized Georges Kern and the ability for him to execute his ideas. If anything, Kern’s short time at Breitling (about two years) demonstrates the power of what you can do if a company’s financial arm allows for a CEO to spend and invest in the future, no matter the current state of global investor confidence. The good news for Breitling is that their efforts are paying off, even today.
Weeks away from the release of the first film he produced (in French), Georges Kern sits at the Four Seasons Hotel in Beverly Hills with guests from around the Americas who have come to see him, his friends, and his new creations. I’ve personally never seen Mr. Kern more at ease and seemingly hopeful about the future.
One cause for Mr. Kern’s positive sentiments is that business is growing for Breitling — and in important places like the United States and China. The United States has always been a strong market for Breilting. (It is often said to be the third-largest Swiss luxury watchmaker in the United States, after Rolex and Omega, respectively.) Kern is a globalist and understands that, while local tastes and preferences differ, Breitling needs to be a global brand in every sense of the word. From a product perspective, Kern was also lucky, not only in his ability to streamline the brand’s notoriously confusing model families but also to sit on an archive of designs and styles that happen to be particularly fashionable these days.
Well-made, good-looking watches aren’t enough — and with Kern’s understanding of Hollywood appeal comes his understanding of marketing. That, blended with his more than two decades of experience in the watch industry, has allowed for him to be among the very few leading watch brand CEOs who have the courage to try new things in a global economic recession, when spirits are down and luxury seekers (who continue to exist in droves) are chasing different pleasures than the generation before them.
For instances, the next person who dons one of these Avenger Automatic GMT 45 watches might be a drone racing champion. Breitling is, indeed, adding the world of drone-flying sports into its legacy of aviation. The logic is sound, and on top of that, drone racing also appeals to new-generation computer and video gamers seeking sports and heroes relevant to them.
From a timepiece perspective, these new GMT watches are a smart release from Breitling and unlike anything I can think of in the current collection. What other time and GMT Breitling watches (without a chronograph complication) come to mind? I know they have produced GMT watches before, but I don’t think Breitling has really ever had a modern GMT hit (and I am not counting the World Time since that is a different style of watch altogether).
As GMT watches, these are good looking timepieces, and the red GMT hands on both the blue-dialed standard steel version and the military-style Night Mission are extremely easy to read and not easily confused with the hour or minute hand. The 24-hour scale, on the other hand, is a bit tiny and will require good eyes. This does mean that the uni-directional rotating bezel can still be used for a 60-minute timer — which, honestly, is rare for GMT watches of this pedigree. Also, there is the case size to contend with, which will make the Avenger Automatic GMT 45 watches too large for a lot of wrists. It is entirely likely that Breitling will make more versions in smaller cases in the future.
Georges Kern also mentioned that part of his new strategy moving forward will be to release fewer watches at a time. The Breitling Summit saw the debut of just 14 SKUs. In the past, the brand produced such a healthy variety of versions for each model that consumers got choice paralysis. They did so because different tastes around the world would prompt them to produce slightly different styles. Today, brands are a lot more aware of what sells and doesn’t, while also being mindful of not saturating the consumer or news markets with too much information at a time. That is my explanation of why Breitling seems to tease a new Avenger GMT watch concept with two models that feel like a slew of others might be hiding right behind the scenes. I personally like that the brands wants people to focus on just a few styles and color treatments at a time.
For 2019, Breitling retired the Colt collection and has merged it in with Avenger. The watches always looked too similar, and the new Avenger collection actually has a whole new construction but still has that iconic look and feel of a modern Breitling. The cases are 45mm-wide and have real heft to them, thanks to the wide lugs. Given the width, they feel thin at just 12.3mm-thick, and the cases are water resistant to 30 meters with an AR-coated sapphire crystal over the dial.
Inside the watches, Breitling uses a sourced Swiss movement (base ETA 2893, I believe), which they call their Caliber 32 movement. It operates at 4Hz with about 42 hours of power reserve and also features the date, in addition to the time and 24-hour GMT hand for a second time zone display. Breitling has each of the movements COSC-Chronometer certified.
The Breitling Avenger Automatic GMT 45 comes in steel with a combo polished and brushed case design. It debuts exclusively with a blue dial and index-style hour markers with a case that is available either on a matching blue textile (leather-lined) strap or a handsome three-link steel bracelet (my choice). Things get a lot more interesting with the Avenger Automatic GMT 45 Night Mission with its black and khaki tan themes.
The Breitling Avenger GMT 45 Night Mission is a handsome little devil in a black DLC-coated titanium case paired with a “sand” leather strap. The dial uses a mix of indexes and stencil-style hour markers, which has always made for a good look. I suppose one can criticize Breitling for being too cautious about design innovation at this stage in the brand’s operations — and you might be right. That said, Breilting today is doing a great job of boiling down the core Breitling aesthetics into very fashionable styles (even if they aren’t too original within the brand). Give it a few years and I think we will see more innovation when it comes to design from Mr. Kern. For the time being, I think he is still in the process of trying to distill the core essence of Breitling across the various brand pillars (Aviation 8, Navitimer, Premier, SuperOcean, etc…).
Breitling now has two interesting GMT model contenders, but the competition in this area is fierce. I think these two Avenger Automatic GMT 45 watches are a hit but will take a bit of time for people to really appreciate. At that point, Breitling will likely have fleshed out the collection a bit more and experimented with how Breitling can do a GMT watch with a flair no one but they can achieve. Price for the Breitling Avenger Automatic GMT 45
At Baselworld 2016, I got to play with the first watch using Breitling’s so-called “Breitlight” case material, which is the Breitling Avenger Hurricane replica . This is a deceptively cool watch even though it clearly isn’t for everyone. With that said, I really like it when brands like Breitling produce intentionally niche watches like this that work really well for particular purposes. What makes the Breitling Avenger Hurricane weird? Well, in addition to displaying the time in a 24- versus 12-hour layout, the case happens to be really big at 50mm wide and produced from a form of carbon polymer.
Carbon composites of various types have become increasingly popular in luxury sport watches. Carbon fiber is perhaps the most well-known of these materials, but it isn’t the only way carbon is treated in luxury watches. Unlike more established watch materials such as metal, we are still new to understanding how to compare various carbon polymer materials with one another. Moreover, we still need to gain a lot of expertise and information to know whose cases are better than others, why, and if materials such as “Breitlight” are indeed a proprietary blend, or a slick name a brand like Breitling applies to this type of material.
There are a lot of open questions about carbon composite materials that I, frankly, don’t have all the answers to – such as whether they are actually luxury materials, and how they hold up over time. What I do know is that it isn’t possible to properly mill and machine all carbon polymer materials, so usually only the most high-quality ones can be used for watch case materials. With that said, we don’t always know how difficult these materials are to find, their construction costs, and what types of performance and durability benefits they offer for watches.
It is, however, a very good thing that watch brands are experimenting with interesting case materials such as carbon polymers. Use of these materials is less about solving existing problems in watches (save for perhaps weight reduction) and more about being creative and keeping traditional timepieces relevant. A good example of that is how nicely the traditional look of this military-style Breitling case (that we have, of course, seen in metal) translates into being rendered in a carbon polymer. That in and of itself is interesting and noteworthy.
Brands like Breitling are finding these materials from other industries such as car, plane, and boat construction. The materials are quite useful, actually, being several times lighter than steel, very tough, resistant to things like temperature or magnetism, and shock absorbent. With that said, you still can’t really polish a carbon polymer case, so we are currently left with mostly matte finishes that show off the native textures that these materials bring to the table. Further, much of the “art” involved in showing the right carbon materials for watch cases is specifically in choosing those which have the right shades of colors and aesthetic textures, etc.
Breitling didn’t need to make the Breitling Avenger Hurricane 50mm wide, but I think they did so in order to demonstrate how light a watch can be at this size, in the Breitlight material. If successful, future Breitling watches with Breitlight cases will be smaller. Super large watches are wearable if they are light-enough, but you do need the “wrist charisma” to pull them off visually.
In matte tones with a very utilitarian dial, the Breitling Avenger Hurricane very much feels like a tool watch – and that is a good thing. Yes, a refined luxurious tool watch from Breitling, but it has been a while since I’ve worn a watch from the brand that so felt like a dedicated instrument – even if it is very niche in its appeal.
Inside the Breitling Avenger Hurricane watch is Breitling’s in-house-made caliber B12 movement which offers the time in 24-hour format as well as the date and a 12-hour chronograph. Such 24-hour dials are rare in the watch industry, and most of them actually come from Breitling anyways. This requires you to read the dial differently, but for those people (military or civilian) that prefer to read the time in this way, the usefulness is clear. The automatic movement operates at 4Hz (28,800bph) and has about 2.5 days of power reserve, if memory serves me correctly.
The expansive dial allows for a relatively uncluttered look (all things taken into consideration) and very much like the military stencil-style font for the hour indicators and the matte hands that just super emphasize good legibility. Breitling combines the black and white tones with a sort of orange-yellow accent color.
With 100 meters of water resistance and a well-made AR-coated sapphire crystal, the durability you expect from a Breitling is all there, but now in a lighter case from a still exotic material that is quickly being adopted (and played with) by a number of typically conservative brands like Breitling. On the rubber and textile strap you can get a snug and comfortable fit, which makes the Breitling Avenger Hurricane all that more wearable for those who wish to brave it on their wrist. With that said, have no doubt about the fact that this is a huge timepiece. In a niche way, the Breitling Avenger Hurricane is a definite success and a pleasant surprise in a concept that could just have easily failed as succeed. Price for the Breitling Avenger Hurricane