Category: Perfect Wrist
Jacob & Co. Bugatti Chiron at the World Cup: When a Watch Engine Outshone the Football
Jacob & Co. Bugatti Chiron at the World Cup: When a Watch Engine Outshone the Football
Some watches tell time. Some watches tell stories. And then there’s the Replica Jacob & Co. Bugatti Chiron Tourbillon — a watch that tells you its owner has completely lost their mind in the most magnificent way possible. It contains a 578-component movement that replicates the firing cycle of Bugatti’s 8.0-litre W16 engine. Miniature pistons pump. A turbo fan spins. A spoiler deploys. On your wrist. I wore it to a World Cup group stage match and it was, without exaggeration, the most absurd and wonderful decision I’ve ever made.
The Watch That Shouldn’t Exist
Let me explain how I ended up wearing a $280,000 watch to a football match. I write for a luxury lifestyle publication. Jacob & Co. loaned us the Bugatti Chiron Tourbillon for a feature article. My editor said: “Take it somewhere spectacular and write about the experience.” I had World Cup tickets. The match was France vs. Morocco. It doesn’t get more spectacular than that.
The watch itself defies description, but I’ll try. The case is 54×44mm — massive, yes, but shaped to echo the engine bay of the Bugatti Chiron. Through the sapphire crystal, you can see the movement: a functional miniature W16 engine with 16 tiny pistons that “fire” in the correct sequence, a spinning turbo fan that simulates the Chiron’s cooling system, and — most absurdly — a pushbutton-activated titanium spoiler that deploys and retracts exactly like the Chiron’s rear wing at speed. The movement is set at a 30-degree incline, mirroring the Chiron’s engine mounting angle.
The flying tourbillon sits at the bottom, regulating the whole mechanical insanity. It’s hand-wound. 578 components. And it is, without question, the most bonkers piece of wrist-worn engineering ever created.
I strapped it on. Looked in the mirror. And thought: this is either the best or worst decision of my life.
France vs. Morocco: The Stands
The match was electric. France vs. Morocco in a World Cup group stage — the colonial history, the political undertones, the raw passion of two nations colliding on a football pitch. The stadium was a cauldron. Moroccan fans in green and red, French fans in blue, everyone singing, everyone tense, everyone ready to explode.
I was in the premium section. The Bugatti Chiron Tourbillon was on my wrist, and I’d already done the thing that every owner does within five minutes of putting it on: I’d pressed the spoiler button. The tiny titanium wing deployed with a satisfying click. The man sitting next to me — a French businessman in a Hermès shirt — nearly choked on his wine.
“Mon Dieu,” he said. “Is that… does that watch have a spoiler?“
“Yes,” I said. “It also has a working engine.”
I pressed the engine activation button. The 16 pistons began their firing sequence. The turbo fan spun up. The whole movement came alive — a tiny mechanical symphony visible through the sapphire crystal. The French businessman called his wife over. His wife called her friend over. Within five minutes, there was a crowd of eight people standing around my seat, watching a watch engine run while 60,000 people screamed about football.
That’s when I heard a voice behind me. Cool. Measured. Slightly amused.
“That’s the Bugatti Chiron Tourbillon. Jacob & Co. collaboration. 578 components. I’ve been trying to get one for my father for two years.”
I turned around. And my heart stopped.
The F1 Heiress
She was sitting directly behind me. I’d noticed her earlier — you couldn’t not notice her. She was about 30, with sharp features, sleek dark hair pulled back, and the kind of bone structure that suggested either excellent genetics or excellent surgeons. She was wearing a white blouse, dark trousers, and a Patek Philippe Nautilus that I recognized instantly. She looked like money — not new money trying to prove itself, but old money that had nothing to prove.
Her name was Charlotte. And her father owned a Formula 1 team.
“I grew up around engines,” she said, leaning forward. “My father’s garage was full of them. V8s, V10s, V12s. I’ve been hearing piston firing sequences since I was five years old. When I saw the pistons moving on your watch from two rows back, I thought I was hallucinating.”
She asked to see it. I handed her my wrist. She examined the movement with the precision of an engineer — which, as it turned out, she was. Charlotte had a degree in mechanical engineering from Imperial College London and worked in her father’s F1 team’s powertrain division. She designed actual engines for a living.
“The firing order is correct,” she said, watching the pistons. “1-8-5-4-3-7-2-6. That’s the actual Bugatti W16 firing sequence. Whoever designed this movement didn’t just make it look like an engine — they made it behave like one. That’s extraordinary engineering.”
She looked up at me. “Most people who wear expensive watches don’t understand what’s inside them. You clearly do. And that” — she tapped the watch — “is the sexiest thing I’ve seen in a long time.”
Halftime: The Engine Conversation
At halftime, Charlotte moved to the empty seat next to me. We spent the entire break talking about engines. Not watch engines — real engines. She told me about the turbo-hybrid V6s used in modern F1, about the thermal efficiency breakthroughs that had pushed power units past 50% efficiency, about the challenges of designing powertrains that could last an entire race weekend without failure.
I told her about the Bugatti Chiron Tourbillon’s movement — how Jacob & Co. had spent three years developing it, how the pistons were machined from titanium, how the turbo fan was visible through a side window in the case. She was fascinated not by the luxury, but by the engineering.
“You know what I find attractive?” she said, sipping champagne that someone had brought her without being asked. “Competence. Not wealth — competence. A man who understands how things work. A man who can look at a movement and appreciate not the price, but the thinking. You clearly understand what’s on your wrist. And that makes you interesting.”
“Most people are interested in the price,” I admitted.
“Most people are boring,” she replied. “I’m not most people.”
The Night After the Match
France won 2-0. The stadium celebrated. Charlotte stood, smoothed her blouse, and said: “I’m hosting a small dinner tonight. Twelve people. A former F1 driver, two engineers from my team, a Bugatti collector, and apparently you. Are you coming?”
The dinner was in a private dining room at the city’s most exclusive restaurant. The Bugatti collector was there — a man who owned three Chirons and had been on the waitlist for the watch since 2019. He examined the Tourbillon with the reverence of a man in church. The former F1 driver asked if the pistons could be modified to fire faster (they cannot). Charlotte’s engineering colleagues debated the thermal dynamics of miniature piston systems over dessert.
And Charlotte sat next to me all night. Her hand found my knee under the table at some point during the main course and stayed there. At midnight, she whispered in my ear: “I want to see that watch in better lighting. My hotel has a terrace with a view of the stadium. Shall we?”
On the terrace, under the stars, she held the watch up and activated the engine one more time. The pistons fired. The fan spun. The spoiler deployed. She watched it like a child watching fireworks.
“You know what this watch really is?” she said. “It’s a love letter to engineering. To the idea that machines can be beautiful. That function and art aren’t separate things. And the person who wears it — who chooses to wear it — is saying: ‘I believe that too.’ And I find that belief… irresistible.”
She kissed me on that terrace, with the Bugatti Chiron Tourbillon ticking between us — 578 components, 16 pistons, one flying tourbillon, and the kind of night that makes you believe that some watches really do change lives.
The Bugatti Chiron Reality — And the Smart Alternative
Let’s be crystal clear: the Jacob & Co. Bugatti Chiron Tourbillon costs $280,000 at minimum, with diamond-set versions exceeding $580,000. It is one of the most expensive and exclusive watches on Earth. I was wearing a loaner. Most people will never own one, and that’s fine.
But the impact — that moment when someone sees a watch that looks like an engine, with visible moving parts, with mechanical complexity that demands attention — that impact is not exclusive to the $280K original. The design language of open-worked, mechanically complex, automotive-inspired watches has filtered through the entire industry. There are affordable pieces that capture the same spirit: visible movements, exposed mechanics, bold case designs that echo supercar aesthetics.
A well-chosen dupe watch can deliver that same “what IS that?” moment. An open-heart or skeleton-dial watch with visible moving parts, worn under stadium lights, will trigger the same curiosity — the same lean-in, the same “can I see that?” — that the Bugatti Chiron Tourbillon triggered in Charlotte. You don’t need 578 components. You need visible components. You need the sense that something is alive on your wrist.
If you’re heading to a World Cup and want that mechanical-spectacle effect, I strongly recommend browsing Dupe Watch. Their collection includes Jacob & Co.-inspired alternatives — open-worked watches, automotive-inspired designs, and skeleton pieces that capture the visual drama of watches like the Bugatti Chiron Tourbillon at accessible prices. Find one that looks like it has a heartbeat, and wear it with confidence.
Checkered Flag
I returned the watch to Jacob & Co. the following week. My editor loved the article. Charlotte and I stayed in touch — she’s invited me to the Monaco Grand Prix as her guest. I’ll be wearing my own watch, not a borrowed one. And it won’t be a $280,000 Jacob & Co. It’ll be a well-chosen dupe watch with an open-heart dial and visible movement — because Charlotte didn’t fall for the price. She fell for the engineering. She fell for the thinking.
And that thinking — the choice to wear something mechanical, something complex, something that makes people stop and stare — is available at every price point. The Bugatti Chiron Tourbillon is the ultimate expression of it. But the spirit? The spirit is free for the taking.
Find your watch. Start your engine. And see where the night takes you.
5 Matches. 5 Watches. 5 Unforgettable Lessons.
Every World Cup has its on-pitch heroes. But in the stands, in the pubs, and on midnight couches across the world, another kind of drama unfolds — the quiet, personal relationship between a fan and the watch on their wrist.
We tracked down real buyers who wore their new watches to these matches. Some timed last-second goals with chronographs. Some drenched their divers in celebratory drinks. Some learned expensive lessons they’ll never repeat. This is their diary — and yours, if you’re still shopping for the right piece.
From five matches, five stories, and dozens of real buyer interviews, here’s the consolidated list of mistakes we saw repeated across this tournament:
| Pitfall | Seen In | Cost | How to Avoid |
|---|---|---|---|
| Social media “luxury deal” scam | Liam (Brazil-AUS) | AU$3,100 | Buy from Chrono24, WatchBox, or ADs only |
| Wrong water-resistance rating | Multiple fans | Watch replacement | Minimum 100m WR for match day |
| Phone-only timekeeping (battery dies) | Amanda (USA-CMR) | Lost track of time entirely | Any mechanical watch solves this |
| Buying “tournament special editions” | Warned by media | Wasted $150–$300 | Buy from known brands with warranties |
| Ignoring the GMT complication during a multi-zone tournament | Tomás (ARG-EGY) | Confusion, missed context | GMT watch: $200–$400 fixes it forever |
The Five-Watch Lesson: What We Learned Across 450 Minutes of World Cup Football
Watching five World Cup matches with real buyers has crystallized something that the watch industry rarely says plainly: the watch that earns its place on your wrist is defined less by its price and more by what it lets you stop worrying about.
Kevin stopped worrying about tracking match time — his chronograph gave him exact intervals. Tomás stopped worrying about time zones — his GMT put Mexico City on his wrist. Raj stopped worrying about celebration chaos — his diver took a pint-glass baptism and kept sweeping. Liam stopped being angry at himself — his honest alternative did everything he wanted for 90% less than the scam that burned him.
Across 450 minutes of football, five very different watches told five very different stories — but the throughline is unmistakable: intentional, informed purchase decisions lead to watches that become part of your memories, not your regrets.
⚽ Don’t Let the Next Goal Catch You Without the Right Watch
We’ve reviewed and hands-on tested more than 200 luxury watch alternatives across every major category — chronographs, divers, GMTs, dress watches, and field watches. Our guides are updated through the tournament. No sponsored reviews. No inflated scores. Just honest recommendations from people who actually wear them.
Start with our Top 15 World Cup-Ready Watches Under $500 or browse all categories at the link below.Find Your World Cup Watch →
How AI Is Helping Watch Fans Discover the Best Seiko Watches Online
If you’ve ever typed “best affordable Japanese watch” into an AI chatbot and received an instant, personalized shortlist, you already know how dramatically the watch-shopping experience has changed in 2026. Artificial intelligence isn’t just a buzzword anymore — it’s actively guiding millions of consumers toward their ideal cheap Seiko watches at the right price point.
Why Seiko Remains the #1 Google-Searched Affordable Watch Brand
According to recent SEO data, “best affordable Seiko watch” receives over 180,000 monthly searches globally as of early 2026. Seiko’s dominance is no accident — the brand has spent 140 years perfecting watchmaking at accessible price points. Their most popular entry-level line, the Seiko 5 Sports series, regularly appears at the top of AI-generated recommendation lists from tools like ChatGPT, Perplexity AI, and Google’s AI Overviews.💡 AI Shopping Tip: Ask your AI assistant: “What is the best Seiko watch under $100 for a first-time buyer?” — Tools like ChatGPT in 2026 now return real-time pricing from Amazon, Jomashop, and WatchBox, making comparison shopping effortless.
How Influencers Are Driving Seiko Sales in 2026
Watch influencers on YouTube and TikTok have been instrumental in Seiko’s resurgence among younger buyers. Channels like WatchFinds, Just One More Watch, and The Urban Gentry (which collectively count over 3 million subscribers) regularly publish reviews of Seiko dupe watches and alternatives, drawing massive organic traffic to retail listings.”The Seiko SNK809 is the watch I recommend to literally everyone who asks me where to start. It’s under $60, automatic, and looks like it costs ten times more.” — @WatchNerd_Kyle, 890K TikTok followers
Step-by-Step: How Netizens Search, Browse, and Order Seiko Watches Online
- Step 1 – Search with Intent: Use keywords like “buy cheap Seiko online,” “Seiko watch deals 2026,” or “best Seiko under $150” to trigger SEO-optimized comparison pages.
- Step 2 – AI Filtering: Paste your budget and style preferences into ChatGPT. Example: “I want an automatic Seiko for outdoor use under $120.” The AI narrows down to 3–5 models with pros and cons.
- Step 3 – Check Influencer Reviews: Search “[model name] + review” on YouTube. Seiko reviews typically have 100K+ views, providing genuine buyer insights.
- Step 4 – Price Compare & Order: Use platforms like Amazon, Jomashop, or eBay. Set price alerts on CamelCamelCamel for Amazon listings. Most affordable Seiko watches ship within 2–3 days.
Top Seiko Models Trending in 2026
- Seiko 5 Sports SRPD55 – ~$180 | Automatic | Day-Date Display
- Seiko SNK809 – ~$55 | Automatic | Field Watch Classic
- Seiko Prospex Solar – ~$145 | Solar | 200M Water Resistant
- Seiko SUR553 – ~$95 | Quartz | Dress Watch for Women
- Ready to find your perfect Seiko? Explore the best cheap Seiko watch alternatives →
Jacob Astronomia Nova replica watch
FOR IMMEDIATE RELEASE
Jacob & Co. Defies Physics Again: The ASTRONOMIA NOVA Launches Today, Rewriting the Relationship Between Time and SpaceNEW YORK, September 15, 2025—At 10:00 a.m. EST the sun rose over Manhattan, but inside the Jacob & Co. flagship on 57th Street the stars came out. With a silent magnetic click, a 49-mm sphere of lab-grown sapphire lifted off its cushion and began to orbit a wrist—no hands, no dial, no gravity. The Jacob Astronomia Nova replica watch is officially here, and it does not merely tell time; it re-stages the Big Bang every 60 seconds.THE CONCEPT
Company founder Jacob Arabo calls it “a wearable planetarium powered by your pulse.” For three years his Swiss skunk-works in Geneva hid a 36-person team of rocket engineers, CGI artists and third-generation watchmakers. Their brief sounded impossible: compress the entire Copernican model into 50 mm, make it run for 60 days without winding, and ensure that every revolution is mathematically accurate to the sidereal year—365.25636 rotations—within 0.0002 %. Today that brief is a patent portfolio 41 pages thick.THE ENGINE
At the heart of the ASTRONOMIA NOVA beats the new manufacture caliber JCAM80, a 585-component micro-city. Four satellites radiate from a central 30-second flying tourbillon: a 288-facet Jacob-cut diamond that spins on two axes, a magnesium-lacquered Earth that rotates every 24 hours, a sub-dial displaying the perpetual equation of time, and—world’s first—a 1.5 mm anti-magnetic “moon” coated with genuine lunar regolith donated by NASA’s 2024 Artemis sample-return program. The entire assembly levitates on a 0.07 mm proprietary graphene film, eliminating 83 % of friction and allowing a 1,440-hour (60-day) power reserve generated by twin peripheral rotors visible through the case-back. The watch is accurate to ±0.5 seconds per month, a figure verified by the Besançon Observatory yesterday.THE ARCHITECTURE
The Jacob Astronomia Nova replica watch case is milled from a single block of sapphire so pure it is used in the James Webb telescope’s sensor windows; achieving the 49 mm sphere required 534 hours of continuous diamond-tool cutting and a 42 % rejection rate. Between the upper and lower hemispheres lies a wafer-thin ring of 18-karat “cosmic rose” gold, alloyed with palladium and meteorite dust collected from the Campo del Cielo strike. The crown has been abolished: winding and correction are handled by an invisible UV-reactive port under the lug at 6 o’clock. Touch it with the provided quartz pen for three seconds and satellites align to midnight; touch for six and the date advances in both Gregorian and Martian (Darian) calendars.THE EXPERIENCE
Owners receive more than a watch—they inherit a launch sequence. Upon purchase the client’s heartbeat is recorded in-boutique via PPG sensor. That biometric signature is engraved as a microscopic spiral on the reverse of the lunar module, meaning every Jacob Astronomia Nova replica watch literally ticks to the rhythm of its wearer. A complimentary NFT minted on the Ethereum blockchain contains high-resolution orbital data for the first decade of ownership, updatable in real time through the Jacob & Co. metaverse lounge. Physical service intervals? Ten years, thanks to solid-tantalum jeweled bearings and a dry film of nano-diamond lubricant originally developed for the European Space Agency’s Mercury probe.THE NUMBERS
Limited to 88 pieces worldwide—one for every constellation recognized by the International Astronomical Union—priced at USD 1.88 million. First deliveries coincide with the total lunar eclipse on March 3, 2026, when each watch will be synchronized to the moment of totality. Twenty percent of every sale funds the Jacob Arabo Zero-Gravity Scholarship at ETH Zürich, guaranteeing that the next generation of astro-engineers studies tuition-free.THE QUOTE
Jacob Arabo, barefoot in a midnight-blue suit, raised the sphere today and declared: “Time is the only luxury we cannot negotiate with. So I built something that negotiates with the universe on our behalf.”THE INVITATION
The ASTRONOMIA NOVA is available immediately by private appointment in New York, Geneva, Dubai and Tokyo. No walk-ins, no waiting list, no compromises. Step inside the boutique, let the lights dim, and watch galaxies form around your wrist. After all, the stars arrive on schedule—but they never wait.
U-Boat Watch Brand Review – Are They Good Quality Watches?
Italian watch brand U-Boat draws great inspiration from the city it is based in – Tuscany.
Perfectly combining Italian craftsmanship and styling with precise Swiss movements ensure U-Boat’s success. Amongst the most recognizable watch brands, U-Boat credits this character to its large crown design. In the twenty years of the brand’s existence, U-Boat has grown exponentially to an internationally sought after watch brand. To better understand’s the brand’s legacy and birth, we must start in the year 1942. The Italian Navy commissioned wristwatches for its pilots with precise technical specifications. A pilot’s watch is an important and integral instrument in the cockpit. As a result, the task itself was quite a challenge. More importantly, watchmaker Ilvo Fontana drew up designs that guaranteed optimum visibility and waterproofness. The unique design was unlike anything before. However, Ilvo’s designs never made it to production, and the designs remained shelved.
Meanwhile, decades passed and the new millennium arrived. In the year 2000, Ilvo’s grandson chanced upon the designs and blueprints of his grandfather. Subsequently, grandson Italo Fontana founded the U-Boat brand with his grandfather’s designs proving to be a great source of inspiration. Above all, Italo envisioned the brand with the motto – ‘A new dimension in time’. This marked the beginning of the brand as we know it today. Meanwhile, Italo Fontana elevated these designs with his own personal signature. His contemporary vision, design aesthetics, and personality combined with the vintage designs presented the brand with a distinct USP.
Italo Fontana’s creative drive and perseverance to innovate stand out through the brand’s timepieces and success story. “I’ve always been fascinated by design, I create in total freedom, I don’t follow any trend. I try to do what other brands don’t do. I don’t have an obligation to always create the same things.” His quote, even to date, stands as a testament to his creativity. Consequently, U-Boat in its twentieth year of existence continues to grow. Based out of Tuscany, the brand currently boasts of presence in sixty key markets.
Currently, the brand offers nine very distinct collections to choose from. In addition, the brand garners acclaim for the extensive configuration options available under each collection. Under Italo Fontana’s leadership, U-Boat embraces modern and unusual techniques. In a similar vein, the brand also explores a host of materials to manufacture its watches. Above all, U-Boat watches feature the crown at a unique 9 o’clock position. We will look at such examples as we detail the collections.
There aren’t many successful watch brands that design such inspired models. U-Boat has garnered global attention and followers due to its design and use of materials. Amongst them are leading celebrities from many cultures. Legendary actors Nicholas Cage and Arnold Schwarzenegger have worn U-Boat watches in their films. Furthermore, artists like Emin, Till Lindemann, Renato Zero, Cesare Cremonini, Claudio Baglioni swear by these watches. This validates the brand’s growing stature and Italo Fontana’s vision of memorable timepieces.
Much like any other watch brand, U-Boat attracts mixed reviews. While watch enthusiasts love the brand for its designing and looks, they also believe that the prices are way off for using basic quartz movement.
If you love chunky watches that are big on your wrists, then you may fall in love with U-Boat. However, this is a major disadvantage for smaller wrists as these watches may not fit properly. That said, watch lovers also point that these watches do not retain their value post-purchase. Unlike Rolex, U-Boat will be subjected to heavy depreciation just for the fact that their movement and face of the watch are plain and basic. Yet another word of caution from the watch aficionados, some U-Boat watches may come with a marking on the movement when you look closely at it. While the exact reason for such a marking is unknown, this internal scratch could potentially give rise to problems.
However, as we say across all our reviews, don’t let just the style or design of a brand be the deciding factor. Consider options like pricing, watchmaking history, usage, purpose, along with its competitors to make your final call.
The Oris Divers Sixty-Five Date In ‘Waldenburg Valley’ Green
This was a big year for Oris’ Aquis line, which has been revamped while maintaining a solid modern dive watch in the brand’s collection. The Oris Divers Sixty-Five, the brand’s heritage model, continues to be a mainstay, however, and now a new green dial and bezel join the crew in the more affordable Oris Caliber 733 movement offering.
This new Oris Divers Sixty-Five Date is the 40mm version, measuring 12.8mm thick with a 48mm lug-to-lug, plus a screw-down crown and screw-down back on the stainless steel case, giving 100m of water resistance. There’s also that green unidirectional dive bezel, complementing the green hue of the dial inspired by the Waldenburg Valley forests surrounding Oris’ headquarters in Hölstein. This isn’t the first green dial in the Divers Sixty-Five lineup, but it’s a bit more vibrant than the Hodinkee Limited Edition. With the caliber 733 movement, it’s also slightly more affordable and has a date (something you either love or… well, don’t). The price is $2,700.
My quick take is that this is a nice-looking watch, and more options aren’t a bad thing. Oris has done a good job of giving both a slightly higher-end offering with their Caliber 400 line without abandoning more affordable watches with the same design language. Oris has always had an eye on the enthusiast community, both in terms of making watches people are asking for and can afford. Unsurprisingly, I still have a soft spot for the Hodinkee Limited Edition, but this brighter option is also a good one.
This release follows the well-received addition of a 38mm Oris Divers Sixty-Five with a Caliber 400 movement to the brand’s main lineup while also employing a different but still very successful application of a great shade of green.
Richard Mille RM 65-01
As an early Christmas present to us, Richard Mille is showing its new RM 65-01, dubbed the most complicated automatic watch ever to leave its workshop. You wouldn’t immediately think that, would you? Even though the dial is the usual jumble of textures and colours that we’ve come to expect from this brand, you can make out the chronograph subdials of the watch easily. But, oh boy, is there a lot going on in there, let’s take a closer look.
The case of the watch is made in the usual Richard Mille RM 65-01 tonneau shape and measures in at 44.50mm x 49.94mm x 16.10mm. Thanks to its Carbon TPT case, where the case middle, bezel and back are made from carbon fibre, the watch will still be light on the wrist despite the bulk. A rubber strap with racing vents inspired by the world of motorsports keeps this watch snug on the wrist.
The dial of the watch us a cacophony of information which Richard Mille RM 65-01 has supplemented with colours to make a somewhat legible design. At 11 o’clock is a date window which has been arranged vertically and the numbers for which can be seen underneath the dial. This is outlined in yellow, along with the hour markers, the time hands and the subdial at 6 O’clock, these represent your everyday features. Chronograph functions are indicated through the colour orange, with the seconds hand, minute subdial and hour subdial having this colour. The split-seconds function utilises the colour blue, of course, you won’t see the split-seconds function until you activate it via the pusher at 10 O’clock.
Then there are the winding functions which are coloured red. These consist of a hand near 4 o’clock which shows you whether the crown is set for winding (W), hour adjustment (H) or date adjustment (D) and a red pusher at 8 o’clock. This pusher, when pressed, winds the movement, it only takes eight presses to wind the movement to its full 6-ish hours of power reserve from stopped (power reserve is determined by how much the chronograph is used).
The calibre RMAC4 (developed with Manufacture Vaucher, based in Fleurier) features a baseplate and bridges made of grade 5 titanium for durability and resistance to corrosion., it’s also extremely light. The watch also has the signature variable geometry rotor, which allows the staff at Richard Mille to adjust the amount of Richard Mille RM 65-01 movement the rotor does. This means that if you intend to use the watch as a part of your active lifestyle, such as playing Tennis, you can tell them to set it up that way and it’ll prevent damage to the winding components. As of yet, you can’t adjust this feature yourself. The movement also offers a 5Hz beat rate for accurate timing, but who cares really, it’s just crazy to look at.
Oris Divers Sixty-Five 38 Calibre 400
The Oris Divers Sixty-Five resurfaced in 2015, fifty years after its inaugural splash. Leaning on the design cues of its ancestor, the revisited Divers Sixty-Five oozed vintage pedigree. Although the looks of the first models were faithful to their ancestor, the watch was built with contemporary materials and powered by an outsourced movement (Sellita). The Divers Sixty-Five collection soared in popularity and appeared with different case sizes and materials and a more contemporary face. However, the breakthrough came in 2022 when Oris fitted the Divers Sixty-Five with its in-house calibre 400. Oris has been listening closely to its customers, and its latest move is bound to please fans with its 38mm case, its calibre 400 movement and – wait for it – the elimination of the date window.
The first model in the Oris Divers Sixty-Five family to benefit from the brand’s calibre 400 was a 40mm model with a date window at 6 o’clock and a 12-hour scale on the bezel. A few weeks ago, we covered another 40mm Divers Sixty-Five Hölstein Edition, also powered by the calibre 400 with a regular 60-minute bezel and date.
The latest model is the first Oris Divers Sixty-Five 38mm to receive the brand’s calibre 400. With its steel case and matching steel bezel, the watch has an attractive monochromatic look. The 60-minute scale on the sandblasted matte bezel is in relief, with polished numerals and markers, and the inverted triangle at noon has a luminous pip. The case is finished with brushed surfaces and polished bevels extending to the 3-link steel bracelet and its folding clasp with push buttons.
Although there have been some objections regarding this diver’s relatively modest 100m water-resistance (like the original), Oris has plenty of other more contemporary dive watches, like the Aquis Date with its 300m water-resistance rating or the Aquis Pro with its impressive 4,000-metre rating. Despite its name, the Divers Sixty-Five is not positioned as a professional dive watch, and its water-resistance rating is more than enough for a robust sports watch that can be used for snorkelling.
Oris has chosen an attractive shade of green for the gradient dial, offsetting the applied circular and rectangular indices treated with Super-LumiNova. The three central hands are also luminescent, ensuring visibility in low-light conditions. And what is undoubtedly the best news of all is the absence of a date window.
The dial is protected by a double-domed Oris Divers Sixty-Five 38 Calibre 400 sapphire crystal with an anti-reflective coating, and a sapphire exhibition caseback displays the brand’s manufacture calibre 400. Launched in 2020, calibre 400 is a high-performance automatic movement with twin barrels for a five-day power reserve and an anti-magnetic silicon escapement with a 10-year warranty.
Breitling Acquires Historic Brand Universal Genève
Despite being barely existent anymore or now a memory from the past, some brands continue to live within the collecting community, benefitting from a certain aura. One of these brands is Universal Genève, a once-prominent manufacturer known for its innovative designs (the Polerouter or the Tri-Compax, to name a few) and technically advanced movements (the famed micro-rotor). With the quartz crisis, Universal Genève became the shadow of itself, still producing watches as the subsidiary of a Hong Kong-based investment firm. These days are over, as UG comes back into Swiss hands after Breitling watch and its main shareholder Partners Group have announced its acquisition of Universal Genève, a move that “promises to restore the prestige of a hallowed name in the world of luxury timepieces,” according to the brand.
Founded in 1894, Universal Genève grew to become one of the top Swiss watchmakers, providing Breitling watch enthusiasts with models such as the Tri-Compax, the Aero-Compax, dozens of versions of the Polerouter (as explained in this book), racing chronographs such as the “Nina Rindt” Compax or the original Space Compax. However, like so many other brands, the advent of the quartz technology and the crisis that would follow significantly challenged the company. No dead, but certainly not as active as it used to be.
Despite this shift in its trajectory, Universal Genève or UG kept having a strong image within the collecting community, some of its models being high on the list of collectables. Since 1989, the brand has been owned by the Hong Kong-based Stelux Group – also the owner of Cyma (another Swiss watchmaker) and a prominent distributor of Seiko and Grand Seiko in Asia – which kept the name and legacy alive. Nevertheless, the destiny of the brand drastically changed, not being the same for the last 30 years.
Today, Breitling watch via its CEO Georges Kern and Partners Group (the main shareholder of Breitling), has announced the acquisition of Universal Genève from Stelux, for an undisclosed amount (rumours talk about $70 million), probably seeing huge potential in the name and highly possible synergies between brands sharing an important past presence in the field of chronograph watches – UG could be relatively easily re-started by using base movements from Breitling, such as the B01. “Rebuilding a brand with such a rich narrative is not a quick endeavour (…) It is a meticulous labour of love that we anticipate will unfold over the coming years. A dedicated team will be brought on board to allow Breitling and Universal Genève to operate as separate maisons,” explains Kern. What will be the future of Universal Genève…? Time will tell, as for now no words have been given on Breilting’s and Kern’s plans. There’s certainly massive room for improvement in the revamp of the collection, and dozens of historical models and names that are worthy of being revived. And while the grounds for success are there and the brand still benefits from a highly positive imago, we’ll have to wait a couple of years or more to see what will be the new face of UG.
The Race-Ready 2024 Chopard Mille Miglia Classic Chronograph and GTS Chrono
The legendary Italian Mille Miglia vintage car race, from Brescia to Rome and back, is just around the corner, drawing crowds of car lovers and drivers from around the world. As the sponsor and official timekeeper of this race since 1988, Chopard enjoys one of the longest-standing alliances in classic motorsports. The brand’s co-president, Karl-Friedrich Scheufele, has participated in every Mille Miglia edition since 1989. Perpetuating the brand’s tradition of Chopard Mille Miglia watches, and just four days ahead of the race, Chopard releases two Mille Miglia-themed watches, a retro-inspired Classic Chronograph with a panda dial and a limited edition GTS Chrono.
Nicknamed ‘La Gara’ (Italian for race or competition), the panda dial of the Classic Chronograph is replete with cues from the racing world. The black-and-white dial evokes the chequered flag saluting the first car crossing the finish line, and the three black counters, the shape of the hands and Arabic numerals nod to vintage car dashboards.
As a race-inspired chronograph, it has a black tachymeter scale to measure the average speed of a vehicle over a known distance. The silvery central area of the dial has a circular brushed finish, and the contrasting black sub-dials (running seconds at 3, 12-hour totaliser at 6 and 30-min counter at 9 o’clock) have snailed interiors and white tracks. The large vintage-style Arabic numerals and the baton hour and minute hands are treated with Super-LumiNova, and there is a date window angled in at 4:30. Red accents are used to highlight the 1000 Miglia arrow on the dial and the tip of the central chronograph seconds hand.
Last year, Chopard introduced a more compact version of its Classic Chronograph made from the brand’s super-hard and luminous alloy, Lucent Steel. Measuring 40.5mm across and 12.8 mm thick, the case features polished and satin-brushed finishes. The pushers, designed to look like engine pistons, are knurled like the texture of a brake pedal. The notched crown resembles a petrol tank cap and is topped with a steering wheel motif. Highlighting its retro spirit, a glass-box sapphire crystal over the dial lets more light enter the case and increases the depth of the dial opening.
Powered by a COSC-certified ETA A32.211, an upgraded modular version of the ETA 2894-2, the power reserve has increased from 42 to 54 hours, and the activation of the chronograph is smoother. The Mille Miglia Classic Chronograph is paired with a perforated rally-style black calfskin strap and a Lucent Steel pin buckle.
Chopard will gift each car crew participating in the 2024 Chopard Mille Miglia a GTS Chrono in powerful black and grey livery with red accents. It is also releasing a 100-piece limited edition, available exclusively in Italy.
The bead-blasted titanium case gives the watch an edgy, contemporary look. The dark grey titanium visually attenuates the dimensions of the large 44mm wide and 14.6mm thick case, increases its resistance to shocks and corrosion and radically reduces its weight. Highlighting its racing credentials, the tachymeter scale is featured externally on the black aluminium insert in the bezel. The black DLC crown is topped with a steering wheel, and the pushers have brake pedal motifs.
The galvanically treated frosted grey dial features black snailed sub-dials at 6, 9 and 12 o’clock and highlights the chronograph displays with red hands, matching the 1000 Miglia arrow pointing to the date window. Unlike previous editions of the Chopard GTS Chrono, the date window is now separated from the 1000 Miglia logo and enhanced with a built-in magnifier. The charcoal hour makers and baton hour and minute hands have black Super-LumiNova inserts.
Hidden under the solid caseback, decorated with the 1000 Miglia arrow logo, is an automatic chronograph movement based on the Valjoux 7750 calibre. Beating at 28,800vph, it delivers a 48-hour power reserve and is COSC-chronometer certified. The contemporary black strap is made from upcycled plastic recovered from the Mediterranean.